Wadi Hopping in Oman
We often told friends and families that Oman is our favorite travel destination. They often ask exactly what is there for international visitors. Their vague imagination of Oman is not all that different from that of Dubai or Doha: skyscrapers, luxury hotels, and shopping malls. So they were really surprised when we told them that Oman is one of the best outdoor destinations in the world. Unlike its Gulf neighbors, the sultanate has a long coastline and diverse landscape, creating many different climate zones. Unless you are visiting during the heat of the summer, Oman’s weather is surprisingly pleasant.
But no matter what month your visit is, getting a brief respite in the middle of the day is always good. For a busy sightseeing day, I could think of no better way to spend an hour or two at one of Oman’s numerous wadi. Wadi, the Arabic term for the valley, has been the lifeline of the Omanis. Personally, I think it is worthwhile to plan out your sightseeing days around a wadi visit. With so many wadis on offer, finding a wadi that is perfect for you could seem daunting. Geographic locations aside, each wadi has its own personality and beauty; I certainly think some prior research is warranted. I found Oman Tripper to be the best online resource out there. But here are just a few of the wadi we visited on our trip:
The Little Snake Canyon
The first wadi we visited on our trip was the Little Snake Canyon. It is just a short detour along the popular Al Rustaq Route; the wadi could be a convenient stop between Al Rustaq Castle and Al Nakhal Fort. This little wadi is a part of the larger wadi called Wadi Bani Awf. This wadi gets my vote as being the most scenic. To get there, it was a fifteen-minute drive on an unpaved road. It was our first off-road driving experience in Oman, and it freaked Brian out. As desolate as it is beautiful, the road to the wadi brought us to the mouth of the canyon. Since we arrived here late in the afternoon, the steep cliff surrounding the canyon has looked foreboding and mysterious.
Dramatic cliff of Little Snake Canyon.
Dramatic cliff of Little Snake Canyon.
Walking into the unknown has a very eerie feeling.
Being our first Wadi experience, we were quite reticent about what to expect. We put on our water shoes and put the camera in the water bag to prepare ourselves. Now, neither of us is exactly the outdoorsy type. So it took us quite some time to scramble the first few boulders and trek over the first pool of water. During much of our visit, we were all alone. Not until twenty minutes in did a guy in proper canyoning gears show up. He mentioned that he was scouting the terrain for a major trek the next day. It was then that we understood just woefully ill-prepared we were for what we were taking on. With the sun setting rapidly, we both were uneasy about venturing too far into the canyon. The dramatic vistas framed by the cliffs were just out of this world.
This is my favorite spot in all of Oman.
Anyone interested in visiting the Little Snake Canyon should consider joining one of the treks led by professional guides. More than any other wadis, this is probably the most popular destination for canyoning. Coincidentally, it is considered one of the most dangerous wadis, not because of snakes but because of the risk of flash floods due to its narrowness. To navigate the entire length of the wadi, one would also need to abseil down from a considerably great height at some places. It is safe to say that this is not a place for complete amateurs like ourselves. For anyone interested, please check out the write-up on Oman Tripper here.
Wadi Dham
Our next wadi on this trip was Wadi Dham (or Wadi Dhum). This is one of the less-visited wadis in Oman and not necessarily close to other popular attractions. Its proximity to the Beehive Tombs of Al-Ayn, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, drew us here. As much as I looked forward to the beehive tombs, Al-Ayn was somewhat out of the way from Nizwa or Bahla. Pairing the wadi with Al-Ayn was a no-brainer. Along the way, we were blessed with magnificent views of Jebal Misht, which is still one of the most beautiful mountain peaks in Oman.
The gravel road leading to the head of the wadi.
Enjoying a peaceful moment in the wild.
It was an easy five-minute walk from the parking lot to the base of a dam that was only a few feet tall. Large slabs of smooth rocks have distinctive white stripes running through them. The strips resemble the snakeskin pattern and look quite fearsome to me. The geological layer of the surroundings is stunning, and it seems purpose-built for sunbathing. After ten minutes of hiking, we reached a drop requiring us to hoist ourselves with a dangling rope. Given what a klutz I am, I was worried that this would be the end of my trek. I was lucky that I somehow managed to gather enough upper body strength.
Slopping rok with its signature white strips.
The area immediately beyond that rope is no doubt the most beautiful section of the wadi. The pools of water appeared to be deep enough for diving, even though we were there during the alleged dry season. Like our time in the Little Snake Canyon, we had the whole wadi all to ourselves. But we waited until just before sunset for this visit. Since much of the water pools were in the shadow when we arrived, the water was frigidly cold. As tempting as the water was, we were apprehensive of jumping in. We would have felt differently if there had been other visitors on site.
To jump or not to jump, that was the question.
The peaceful pool of Wadi Dham.
Compared to other wadis, there seem to be fewer convenient access points to get in and out of the water. And because rocks are relatively smooth, it was imperative to be mindful of the danger of slipping and falling. In hindsight, I did regret not taking a dip. However, one of our favorite memories of Oman was an offer from an Omani family for a drink and snacks at the parking lot of Wadi Dhum. It was the first of many generous invitations that we encountered while in Oman. If it were not for my desire to get back to the beehive tomb for sunset, hanging with my local family would have been a beautiful experience.
Wadi Bani Khalid
If you ask Omanis about their favorite wadi, the name Wadi Bani Khalid would likely come up. Conveniently located between Sharqiya Sands and the coastal city of Sur, this wadi is considered the most accessible in the Sultanate. For one, no 4WD vehicle is required to get there. It is also the most developed wadi regarding tourism infrastructure and amenities. In addition to a well-organized parking lot, there are a couple of pedestrian bridges, snack bars, and even a public toilet. The first pool was a large emerald-color pool with the quintessential appearance of a desert oasis, with palm trees and all. The pool’s shallow profile makes it particularly popular among young families.
The entrance to the second pool at Wadi Bani Khalid.
But the real highlight of this wadi is the “upper pool,” the narrow canyon just beyond the emerald pool. The limestone-color rock face and narrow zigzagging waterways made it arguably the best swim in Oman. At certain segments, the pool was just wide enough for two or three people to swim past each other. The further you go upstream, the less crowded the wadi becomes.
After about fifteen minutes, we reached a popular spot with a natural waterslide. The water flew fast enough to feel lively but calm enough to make our swim effortless. I have never seen Brian enjoy a swimming spot to this degree. And despite the popularity of Wadi Bani Khalid, we had no trouble finding a secluded section of the wadi to ourselves. We could see why this is the most popular swimming spot in Oman. If you are not in a hurry, I would advise planning at least half a day here.
Wadi Shab
The next wadi on our trip came the next day at Wadi Shab, located just off the Muscat-Sur Highway. If you google Omani wadis, there is a chance that the first result will be a picture of Wadi Shab. While the narrow waterway of Wadi Ban Khalid gets my vote as the most rewarding swimming experience, Wadi Shab is our favorite wadi in Oman for the overall experience and dramatic setting. Wadi Shab manages to balance accessibility with preserved ruggedness. What makes this wadi special is a sense of “well-managed” adventure.
Following the falaj will lead us to the promise land.
After parking the car by the highway underpass, visitors must take a three-minute boat ride to the opposite side of the river for 1 OMR. While it is “technically” possible to swim across, the water is quite murky at the mouth of the river. On the side is a wonderfully maintained trail and some small garden patches tended by local families. This being Oman, any garden is accompanied by a well-maintained falaj. The path leads visitors through the canyon. But unlike other wadis, Wadi Shab’s winding path makes the trek particularly enjoyable as the vista of the valley shifts and surprises.
The first section of the trek along Wadi Shab.
The first section of the wadi is off-limited for swimming due to the amount of sediment in it. After a fifteen-minute hike, we arrived at a beautiful pool that was shallow enough to wade through effortlessly. Light vegetation dotted around the pool, making this a postcard-perfect oasis. Neither of us could believe just how beautiful this place was. The term Shangri-La immediately came to mind. Learning from the mistake of our previous wadi visits, we made a point of getting here in the morning. This gave us plenty of time to enjoy the wadi and it also meant having the whole place to ourselves. Since this wadi requires a bit of trekking to get to, there is only a fraction of visitors compared to Wadi Bani Khalid.
The hike was scenic but not strenuous at all.
Isn’t this just heaven on earth?
But as nice as the first pool was, the pièce de résistance is the second pool. Unlike the first pool, getting into the water was the only way forward. As we inched forward, the water became deeper. At the end of the pool was a small tunnel, which was just wide enough for us to swim through. An open-air chamber with a small waterfall is at the end of the tunnel. The echo from the cascade was deafening and a mesmerizing experience. The cave has no ledge for sitting, so the only way to get out of the water is to hoist yourself up with a rope next to the waterfall. I am embarrassed that I could not climb to the waterfall's top. On the other hand, Brian could climb and then jump off the waterfall. It was something that Brian brags about ever since.
Bimmah Sinkhole
Though technically not a wadi, I would be remiss for not including the Bimmah Sinkhole in this blog post. As the name suggests, the sinkhole was formed by the collapse of the fast-eroding limestone layers. According to tradition, the locals believe a meteorite formed it. The sinkhole is called Hawiyyat Najm, meaning the “well of the falling star.” In a way, I think such legends make sense from the local’s point of view. Since sinkholes are not particularly common in the corner of Oman, I could see how people would attach special significance to one in their backyard. Another local name is Bait Al Afreet, which means the “House of the Demons” in Arabic.
The entrance to Bimmah Sinkhole is free and accesiible.
And like most sinkholes worldwide, the surroundings of the sinkhole are unremarkable. Except for the modest sign on the highway, there was no geological clue to the presence of a giant sinkhole. The local government did a great job setting up a gleaming parking lot and a beautifully landscaped park with a covered pavilion. It was quite moot since all visitors made a beeline toward the sinkhole. No matter how many pictures I have seen online, I was still in awe of the sight of this sinkhole. Compared to the cenotes of Yucatán, Bimmah Sinkhole is certainly “bare” but formidable.
The emerald pool.
The pool at the sinkhole is easily accessible with a set of stairs. Due to the proximity to the coast, the water here is said to connect to the nearby Indian Ocean. The water here is warmer than nearby wadis but still refreshing enough for a dip in the middle of the day. Since there are few shelters around the water, it felt much more public than at a wadi. That may be why Brian opted not to get into the water. However, you could still enjoy the water by dipping your toes in. After two weeks in Oman, the nibble fish in the pool gave us a well-needed pedicure. Why pay for pedicure fish treatment in Thailand when you could get it free here in Oman while enjoying the beautiful landscape?
The emerald pool.
Aside from being a great place to swim, perhaps the real thrill of Bimmah Sinkhole is the opportunity to see an epic dive from the very top. At over 75 feet in height, the jump is definitely not for the faint-hearted. In addition to signs warning about the danger of the dive, there is also a perimeter wall guard against falling off the edge. However, they still do not prevent daredevils from making the plunge. Honestly, I was very tempted to make the jump. But given that we were due to check in to the fancy Shangri-La Al Husn Resort the following, I figure it is better not to risk a trip to the hospital. As a consolation prize, I did take a dive from a 15 ft ledge!
