Agadir & Taghazout - Somebody Else's Paradise
Our recent trip through Southern Morocco has been a whirlwind. In a two-week period, I visited the Sahara, a dozen Moroccan cities, and many more rural villages. It was a little too fast-paced, even for an aggressive sightseer like myself. Among all the places I visited, two stood out: Agadir and the nearby fishing village of Taghazout. From glowing reviews from travel influencers and guidebooks, they seem like perfect stopover points for my drive between Taroudant and Essaouira. But they were the only places I wouldn’t recommend to my fellow travelers. I can’t help wondering why I am such an outlier. Was I just blind, maybe?
Agadir - Myrtle Beach of Morocco
With just under one million population, Agadir, or “fortified enclosure” in the Berber language, is the sixth-largest city in Morocco and a major center of commerce. The city occupies a strategic location at the mouth of the Sous River, and the city is said to be just a little older than 3,000 years old. Many scholars list Agadir as a possible location for the lost city of Atlantis described by Plato. In the 20th century, the place was an active contesting territory among various colonial powers and the local population. A naval confrontation between the French and German forces in 1911 was considered a precursor to World War I.
The sandy beach of Agadir with Agadir Oufella on the hilltop.
Despite the city’s ancient heritage, today’s visitors would be hard-pressed to find many traces of old Agadir. In 1960, a magnitude 5.8 earthquake leveled the city into rubble and killed over one-third of the residents. Although this earthquake was not particularly severe by metric, its shallow depth and non-seismic construction made it the deadliest earthquake in Moroccan history. Nearly the entire city was razed and started anew, given the extent of the damages. The rebuilt city followed the latest principles of urban planning and seismic engineering. It is now Morocco’s most modern metropolis.
Because Agadir Oufella is one of the very few historic sites in Agadir, there are plenty of vendors waiting for tourists to show up.
One of the few remnants that survived the earthquake is Agadir Oufella, the city's historic kasbah up on the hill. Perched over three hundred feet above the rest of the city, the fortress was first started by Sa'di sultan Muhammad al-Shaykh in the mid-16th century to counter a smaller wooden fortress set up by the Portuguese. In its heyday, the Kasbah was a small city of its own right, containing mosques, hospitals, a Jewish quarter, and a public treasury. Unfortunately, the stone fortress fell into disuse after damages sustained from the famous 1755 Lisbon earthquake. It was half destroyed after the 1960 earthquake.
Camel rides for tourists.
The newly restored wall of Agadir Oufella.
The newly restored wall of Agadir Oufella.
To cater to the growing number of tourists, the city began an extensive restoration project in 2020 to fortify the kasbah and bring it into tip-top shape. The imposing white-washed walls are mighty impressive. The fortress perched high above the rest of the city like a light beacon. Despite the restoration, I don’t believe the interior of the kasbah is open to the public. Even so, it is still a popular spot that attracts many vendors and tourists carrying camels.
From the forecourt of the kasbah, visitors have a panoramic view down to the modern Agadir and the Atlantic Ocean. The corniche and the waterfront development show how Agadir has left its Moroccan roots behind to embrace the prosperity of the modern seaside tourism economy. The dramatic view here reminded me a lot of the view of Nazaré in Portugal. I suspect most tourists are here for the view, not the kasbah. I could not disagree. All the information plaque around the kasbah was more about the restoration and archaeology. Unless you are an archaeologist, it might just be a little boring.
The view of Agadir Bay from Agadir Oufella.
The city recently inaugurated a brand-new gondola system carrying ferry tourists to the Kasbah effortlessly. A second phase of the project will extend the service further to a local amusement park. I drove the car up the hill myself to save €8 fare for the 12-minute ride. It was not until I parked the car by the kasbah that the police informed me that the road here was only accessible for specially licensed tour buses or government vehicles. Realizing my mistake, I was, of course, very apologetic. Instead of issuing me a ticket, the officer gave me five minutes of grace to walk around the area. I have to say I have been consistently impressed by the Moroccan police on this trip.
The Port of Agadir is not only one of the biggest port in Morocco but a popular cruise port.
Although my drive was illegal, the views along the way were spectacular. In addition to the corniche, there are also great views toward the the port of Adigar. Also in port on this day were two cruise ships. I did not realize Agadir is also a major cruise port. I was curious to see what makes this place such a draw. There must be a reason why Agadir has the country's third-largest airport and the highest concentration of all-inclusive resorts. To find out, I must head to the beach next.
The high walls surrounding the hotels make the entire public promenade far less appealing.
I definitely need a few Moroccan flags to remind me where I was.
One of the numerous beach clubs of Agadir.
Driving in Agadir is quite different from the rest of Morocco. The city's layout is not all that different from any city in California. The car-centric lifestyle is evident as I see relatively few pedestrians on the street. Instead, I have never seen so many McDonald’s or Kentucky Fried Chicken advertisements as in Agadir. As a one-time Californian, it all seems very familiar and somewhat anticlimactic regarding Morocco. After all, aren’t people coming to Morocco for authentic culture or historic landmarks? So far, I have yet to discover the charms of Agadir.
One of the numerous private hotel/beach clubs along the promenade.
The promenade of Agadir.
To get to the seaside promenade, the best parking is along August 20 Boulevard, a block parallel to the shore. Because this is Morocco, I did my best to avoid the roaming “parking attendants.” Although public access to the promenade may be guaranteed, fronting the waterfront are private hotels and beach clubs; all walled up from the public’s view. The occasional cafes or restaurants along the promenade all cater exclusively to European clientele, with little Moroccan offerings. Naturally, prices here are approaching European standards. Like the French Riviera or the Costa del Sol, Agadir’s beach is divided among various beach clubs. As pristine as the sands are, the overall area feels corporate and a cesspit of capitalism.
You could probably tell by now that I was not particularly jazzed about Agadair. As tempted as I wanted to be overly critical, I could understand why so many travelers chose this place for their vacation. For many Europeans, Agadir offers much-needed warmth and sunshine during winter. They are probably not particularly interested in Moroccan culture or history. It is the same reason so many Americans go to Myrtle Beach or Cancun for their once-a-year vacation. I really should not slag off places like Agadir. Instead, I will say that this place is not for me.
The promenade of Agadir.
The billboard for Crocoparc in central Agadir.
Flipping through my Lonely Planet guidebook, I was not impressed with Agadir's list of attractions. It says a lot that the top attraction listed in the book is Crocoparc, which is supposed to have the largest collection of reptiles in North Africa. Well, I am not aware that Morocco is known for its reptiles. The whole thing seems a little bit random if you ask me. Of course, Agadir still has a traditional souk or a Mohammed V Mosque like any other Moroccan city. However, they are hardly worth your precious sightseeing time if you also plan on visiting other cities like Marrakesh or Essaouira.
Taghazout - Surfing Nirvana of Morocco
As I drove past the billboard for Crocoparc, I felt happy to leave Agadir behind. While it is a perfectly fine city, it is hardly a place I am eager to return to. If travel influencers or bloggers are to be believed, a popular alternative to the resort lifestyle of Agadir would be the nearby fishing village of Taghazout. The village of a few thousand is about half an hour’s drive north of Agadir and has quickly become a popular day trip. What put Taghazout on the map is Morocco’s emergence as an international surfing destination. It is now regarded as the “surfing mecca of Morocco.”
One of the numerous surf shops in Taghazout.
The color palette of Taghazout certainly looks quite Mediterranean.
Rearranging the fishing boats.
According to most write-ups, Taghazout is a vibrant Berber fishing village that still retains its authentic hospitality. In the 1950s, Morocco had its own version of “Hippie Trails,” which brought a generation of Westerners to places like Tangier, Marrakech, and Essaouira. Many hippies stayed behind and maintained their Bohemian lifestyle among the local population. In Taghazout, many began to build surf-based businesses to take advantage of the excellent wave in the area. For a generation or two, independent travelers came to Taghazout in caravans, often with little money and much time to spare.
In the last two decades, Taghazout experienced a demographic shift in its visitors. Gone were the hippies with longhairs and carefree attitudes; the visitors nowadays are decidedly more upmarket and “curated.” With plenty of cheap flights connecting Agadir and Europe, Taghazout has become a hot spot for the “Instagram generation” who craves “off-the-beaten-path” travel in style. Surfing academies began selling week-long retreats, including surf lessons, yoga, and vegan dining packages. Top-notch boutique bed and breakfasts began to pop up everywhere, followed by nearby luxury resorts like Radisson Blu, Hyatt, and Hilton. For me, Taghazout of today seems more like an idea rather than a place.
The rocky shore of Taghazout.
The color palette of Taghazout certainly looks quite Mediterranean.
Camels on the beach means the influx of foreign tourists.
From the moment I arrived at Taghazout, there was no doubt that tourism is the main industry here. Lining the main road are many surf shops, cafes, and billboards for accommodations. It was quite different from the tranquil fishing village I read about. Considering this is technically still a “Berber village,” it was strange to see guys walking shirtless and young women hanging in wetsuits. The Islamic value of “public modesty” is definitely on pause here.
From the main road, the shore was only a short stroll away. Much to my surprise, the fishing industry in Taghazout is still very much alive. Fishermen gathered on the beach and cleaned their daily catch. A forklift went around the sand beach to pick up any stray boat near the shore. According to a 2015 article, sixty boats enter the sea from here during the high season. However, that is still a fraction of the number of boats in the decades past, before the arrival of foreign tourists. Maybe all the seafood restaurants around Taghazout could keep the local fishing industry alive for a little longer.
Surf theme murals in central Taghazout.
It is a different side of Morocco visitors ough to discover once.
From my understanding, Taghazout is a popular surfing destination because of the diversity of waves catering to surfers of different levels. Judging from the crowd, the wide sandy beach just south of the village seems to be the introductory wave for first-timers. Joining in the action are joggers, horse riders, and camel riders. It is a great place for people to watch and to see all the newbies struggling against the wave. Even for a guy who has never been interested in surfing, I must admit that it does look like a lot of fun.
The surfing lessons in action.
Oceanside cafes of Taghazout.
Given Taghazout’s reputation, I was surprised by how small the village was. On foot, walking from one end to another took about ten minutes. While most businesses along the waterfront cater to surfers, plenty of restaurants and shopping boutiques also exist. Following online recommendations, I stopped at Windy Bay Restaurant for lunch. This trendy restaurant embodies the new face of Taghazout. Their selections of acai bowls and avocado toasts seem purpose-made for this new generation of surfers. Judging from the laptop towing clientele, Taghazout is also popular for digital nomads.
The beach north of Taghazout is definitely rockier.
As I nursed my drink on the restaurant’s outdoor terrace, I couldn’t stop sensing something amiss about Taghazout. Looking around where I was, I could not help noticing just how white the clientele was. There was more English spoken here than either French or Arabic. Taghazout may be a Berber fishing village, but I felt emotionally “removed” from Morocco for the first time on this trip. I may understand Taghazout’s appeal, but it is somebody else’s paradise.
