Modernist Lisbon

The picturesque Lisbon has been attracting budget-conscious visitors for quite some time. Lisbon is frequently voted the most livable city in Europe and has since become one of the hottest tourist destinations in Europe. Besides its relative affordability, Lisbon also has a wealth of historical architecture. From the old-world lanes of Alfama to the conviviality of Bairro Alto, central Lisbon seems to escape the “ravage” of modern architecture or urban renewal. It is very possible that you might not come across a single modern building on a multi-day visit. While I appreciate the faded beauty of Lisbon’s traditional architecture, it would be amiss to overlook the city’s modern heritage.

Modern architecture comes in all shapes and sizes. Because of Lisbon’s Mediterranean climate, the modernism here reminds me a lot of the architecture of Southern California. The dry climate and ample sunshine allow architects to maximize daylight and incorporate many sustainable design features. I honestly believe spending a little effort discovering some of the city’s modern gems is worthwhile. Even if you are normally not a fan of modern architecture, these buildings might just change your mind.

National Coach Museum

Of all the top things to do in Lisbon, the National Coach Museum is probably the most unlikely tourist attraction. At first glance, horse-drawn carriages seem like such a relic of the past and probably not on everybody’s radar. But I have yet to meet any visitor who does not sing its praises. The museum holds one of the largest collections of historical carriages and is considered the best of its kind. The museum was established in 1905 by Queen Amélia, and the core collection is composed of carriages owned by royal families and other Portuguese nobilities. The museum began in the Royal Riding Hall of Belem, the stable of the Royal Palace. The neoclassical elegance contrasts with the new museum building annex across the street.

Also located on Afonso de Albuquerque Square, the new museum annex is difficult to love initially. The hulking concrete structure looks more like a sanitation department garage than a cultural destination. Inaugurated in 2015, the building is like a concrete box floating above the pedestrian plaza. The exhibition space on the upper level is a concrete box with great natural diffused light. The all-white modern interior is a perfect background for all the over-the-top gilded carriages. In many ways, the new museum building looks like a contemporary showroom for a luxurious sports car. In my personal opinion, this could be considered an upgrade from the neoclassical stable across the street.

For architects like myself, the outward structural expression of this building is just marvelous. As much as I enjoyed the building on its own merits, I must admit that the exterior is a little crude and insensitive toward the historical neighborhood of Belem. Considering Jerónimos Monastery, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is only two blocks away, I can’t help wondering what kind of review process they went through for the building permit. Love it or hate it, the building is here to stay.

EPD Headquarters

A handsome office block stood out two blocks west of the TimeOut Market. It is the headquarters of Energias de Portugal (EPD), the largest utility provider in Portugal. The office building sits on a prime riverfront location, previously an industrial zone. The building incorporates an elaborate external solar shield system that minimizes unwanted solar heat gains while maintaining superb views of River Tagus. Hidden behind the system is a series of outdoor terraces that create various interesting visual effects at different times of the day. Despite their towering size, the interplay of the solid and void made the office complex appear far less dominating.

As elegant as the office towers are, the public plaza is the most splendid part of the building. The low-hanging canopy made the space one of the most Instagramable spots in the city. The “public plaza” might appear slightly oppressive in pictures, but it was quite an intimate space. The canopy also provides the necessary shield from Lisbon’s intense sun. This might be the most unusual public space I have ever been to. Hopefully, they might open a cafe or two here soon.

Museum of Art, Architecture & Technology (MAAT)

To many visitors, one building epitomized the development of “modern” architecture in Lisbon. The Museum of Art, Architecture & Technology, commonly referred to as MAAT is one of the newest public buildings in the city that has gathered all kinds of accolades from architectural critics. Opened in 2016, the €20 million museum is designed by London-based Amanda Levete Architects and is meant to provide a state-of-the-art facility to exhibit the latest contemporary artists. This new building is meant to be the centerpiece of an art campus, including the recently revitalized Central Tejo power station (now also turned into an art gallery).

MAAT’s riverfront location offers panoramic views of River Tagus.

Conveniently located in the district of Belem, the museum is easily accessible for visitors to marquee sights such as Jerónimos Monastery or the National Coach Museum. What made the building so unusual was the fact that the building was seamlessly integrated into the surrounding landscape. The low-slung structure creates a harmonious relationship between art, architecture, and the river. Designed by British architectural practice Amanda Levete Architects, the museum seeks to blend architecture and landscape to allow the public to walk over and under it. The museum roof is an open public space as an observation platform and a place for picnics. There is even a dedicated footbridge that brings people over the active railway below.

Due to the museum’s low profile, the museum building is almost visible from afar. While understated, the riverside exterior of the museum is clad with over 15,000 three-dimensional metal tiles. The curvature of the facade reflects the light beautifully. These panels may not be as “seamless” as those on a typical Frank Ghery building, but they appear more intentional and of higher quality. Honestly, I am hesitant to include MAAT in this post. The swooping form of the museum building is technically “contemporary” rather than modern. I only suppose architects like myself would care about the difference between the two.

Rooftop terrace of MAAT is now a favorite location for photo shoot.

As beautiful as the building exterior is, the interior could be a little bit of a letdown. Like all good contemporary art spaces., the goal is to create cavernous, flexible gallery spaces. Because of this flexibility, the interior is rather anonymous. Except for a couple of skylights, I wouldn’t say there is much to see inside architecturally. As far as I know, MAAT has no permanent collection. It might be worthwhile to check their official website for the current exhibit before deciding whether the admission would be worthwhile.

Lisbon Oriente Station

For any architectural photographer, I could argue that Lisbon’s Oriente Station is the most impressive monument in Portugal. Completed in 1998, just in time for the opening of the Expo '98, the station is part of the modernization of the commuter railways. It is an intermodal station with services by subway, national rails, and public bus lines. This station was designed by the famous Spanish architect Santiago Calatrava, known for his daring design and innovative structural solution. Oriente Station is still among his most famous works a quarter century later. I was mightily impressed by how well-maintained the station is. Despite occasional rust stains here and there, the overall station still gleams under the sun.

Santiago Calatrava has a natural knack in creating drama.

The upper-level platform is covered by a field of tall canopies resembling Gothic vaults of great cathedrals. It not only provides adequate shelter without blocking or sacrificing daylighting. The umbrella-like structures also make a handy roof drainage system. I only had a five-hour layover to Porto on my most recent trip to Lisbon. I was very tempted to go on a direct train to Porto. I would have reached central Porto quicker than taking my fifty-minute flight in the afternoon. I have always dreamed of boarding a train at one of Calatrava’s stations. In fact, on my current bucket list was to arrive on a train to Santiago Caltrava’s Liège-Guillemins Railway Station in Liège.

As a New Jerseyan who commuted to Manhattan, I am very familiar with Calatrava’s works every day. His massive Oculus Center at the World Trade Center is perhaps my least favorite building in New York City. Although the soaring height of the Oculus Center is visually impressive, the design lacks basic practicalities such as wayfinding and basic circulation. Perhaps the most frustrating thing about that station was a shopping mall underneath the cavernous space. There is no special design on the train platform we use every day. I am jealous of Lisbon for the glorious Oriente Station.

A series of sculptural concrete arches support the upper-level train tracks. The structural system may be structurally efficient but not cheap or easy to construct. Compared to Oculus Center back home, Oriente Station is an efficient train hub where every traveler can get from one level to another effortlessly. Finely articulated bridges connect the station to the surrounding urban fabric, including Centro Vasco da Gama across from the station. It is a master class in urban connectivity and transit design.

In a typical Calatrava fashion, this station is also designed to awe the public, but not necessarily personable. As much as I admire its architectural genius, I could see how it may not be to everybody’s taste. The whole complex may seem like an embodiment of sci-fi dystopia, and I can’t say it is the most “welcoming” place to be. The scale of muscular concrete and steel construction does not provide a sense of personal comfort. I could see how people would prefer the classical train station over a cold and gray bunker that could easily double as a film set for a Marvel movie.

While the Oriente Station is quite a distance from central Lisbon, it is conveniently located close to the city’s airport and the largest rail hub in Portugal. Even on a quick layover in Lisbon, I recommend a quick visit on the way into town. If you are an architecture or design enthusiast, visiting the nearby Park of the Nations (Parque das Nações) is a must.

Park of the Nations

To get a full dose of modernism, it is worthwhile to head to Park of the Nations (Parque das Nações) in the city's northeastern section. Built as a campus of the 1998 Lisbon World Exposition (aka. Expo '98), many of the major landmarks from the fair were preserved and incorporated into an open-access park. By all accounts, the transformation of the fairground here has been very successful, and it has since become one of the most desirable neighborhoods with plenty of recreational amenities. Integrating a world fair’s ground into the urban fabric is not always easy.

The “crown” of these apartment buildings is said to resemble the sails of the caravel.

The theme of Expo ’98 is ‘The Oceans, a Heritage for the Future,’ it coincides with the quincentenary of the voyage to India by Portuguese explorer Vasco da Game. The expo’s waterfront location celebrates the country’s seafaring traditions. As a result, there were plenty of water fountains, reflecting pools, and what is regarded as the largest aquarium in Europe. While the entire park is decidedly modern, elements of traditional Portugal could be found everywhere. One example is the ubiquitously Portuguese cobblestone (calçadas), which composes various nautical motifs ranging from Neptune, the Caravels to mermaids. However, my favorites are the two high-rise apartment buildings with a fanciful “crown” on top. The design of the crown is said to resemble the sail of caravels.

The Portuguese National Pavilion by Álvaro Siza Vieira.

Without hesitation, I could say that the most significant building here is the Portuguese National Pavilion, the flagship pavilion of Expo '98. This is often considered the most important work of Portuguese architect Álvaro Siza Vieira, who was the 1992 recipient of the Pritzker Prize. The design brief for the architect was to create a reception center with sweeping architectural gestures and easy adaptive reuse after the expo. The pavilion was also regarded as a ceremonial entrance into the fair. The focal point of the pavilion is a large open plaza shaded by a suspended canopy. The concrete canopy was an achievement of engineering and design.

The prestressed concrete is stiffened with the steel cables' catenary arc, creating a stiff but delicate “membrane.” At only 7 inches thick, the canopy is incredibly thin, considering the 230-foot span. The visual effect was striking. It was as if a clean white carpet was suspended in mid-air from its tassels. The concrete “fabric” is purposefully separated from the stone-clad pavilion to communicate the “weightlessness” of the canopy. The lack of ornamental features and simple form create an otherworldly environment straight out of George de Chirico’s painting.

The juxtaposition of the canopy and the monumental pavilion block is both uneasy and sublime. I remember learning about this building in my first semester of architecture school. It was a dream come true for me to finally visit in person. I visited the pavilion twice in five years, and there were restoration works on the building. I can’t help but wonder how challenging the maintenance of this landmark must be. On the other hand, I can’t wait for my next visit. I suppose this is a good excuse for another visit.

The sea monster sculpture takes the nautical theme to another level.

Since the conclusion of the Expo, many additional artworks have been gradually added over the years. The style and scale of these sculptures are wide-ranging. Just outside Centro Vasco da Gama Mall is a three-story tall modernist corten steel by Jorge Vieira. It is probably one of the most impressive sculptures I have seen recently. A giant statue of an Iberian Lynx made of recycled plastics and garbage is not far from it. It is the work of Portuguese artist Artur Bordalo, who is known for his inventive use of found materials. The piece is commissioned for. The "Lisbon +21 Conference" was an international environmental and sustainability gathering. Every event hosted here seems to leave a mark here.

Of course, the important emblem of the Park of the Nations is Gil, the official mascot of Expo '98. It was chosen from hundreds of public entries and named after the 15th-century Portuguese navigator Gil Eanes. As far as the mascot goes, it is probably not the most charming character. But I could see how the mascot and its open-arm gesture still resonates with the open spirit of the Expo and the Portuguese nation.

For most visitors and residents of Lisbon, the most important legacy of the expo is likely the Lisbon Oceanarium, the second-largest aquarium in the Iberian Peninsula. It was inaugurated as part of the ocean-oriented Expo ‘98. According to Tripadvisor, it is also the number one attraction in the city. Aircraft carriers and the rigging of tall ships supposedly inspired the pavilion's design. The structure may not be the prettiest thing to look at, but it is certainly distinctive as it was hovering above the water on a pontoon. Sadly, I did not have the time to pay a visit inside, but I love the nautical theme of their gift shop.

While touristy, riding Telecabine Lisboa is a surprisingly interesting experience.

Another legacy structure from the Expo ‘98 is Telecabine Lisboa, the waterfront cable car system that connects Lisbon Oceanarium to Torre Vasco da Gama. The three-quarter mile cableway doesn’t seem like a necessity since the distance it covers is short and very walkable. At €7 one way or €9 roundtrip, it is quite expensive for an eight-minute ride. Normally, I would not have dished out money for a touristy ride like this. However, I wished to see the Portuguese National Pavilion from the high-up and get a different perspective of the Park of the Nations. It turned out to be a wonderful experience. The exuberant pattern of calçadas from the gondola was particularly memorable.

Bird's-eye view of the Park of the Nations and the Portuguese National Pavilion

The gondola drops visitors off at the base of Torre Vasco da Gama, another relic from Expo ‘98. The 476-foot-tall tower served as the Pavilion of the European Union and is still the tallest structure in Lisbon. Like the apartment buildings I mentioned before, the tower's shape took inspiration from the sails of a Portuguese caravel. After being vacant for nearly two decades. The city eventually approved the construction of a luxury hotel attached to the tower. The overall design reminds me a lot of Dubai’s Burj Al Arab, albeit much more humble. The former observation deck is now home to Fifty Seconds, a Michelin-starred restaurant. I guess I would not be getting up to the top of this tower any time soon.

For architectural lovers, this neighborhood has an impressive collection of modern and contemporary apartment and commercial buildings. Though not as glitzy as Cascais or Belem., the area is certainly nicer than any neighborhood I know in New York. There is a sense of playfulness in modern Portuguese design. The bright Mediterranean sun certainly helps create an interesting interplay between architectural mass and shadows. Among the numerous buildings in the area, the most unexpected find for me is the headquarters building of Vodafone Portugal. Their exterior ramps connecting the two sections of the office complex are nothing more than breathtaking.

Unbeknown to me, this immediate area is on the path of Camino de Santiago. On my second visit, I was going to Porto to start my first Camino. It was quite serendipitous that I came across my first yellow Camino arrows in the most modern area of Lisbon. While Lisbon is not a particularly popular starting point for the pilgrimage, I still came across two walking pilgrims during my hour-long visit. Strangely, I did dream about walking the Camino from Lisbon after finishing the route from Porto.

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National Coach Museum

EPD Headquarters

Museum of Art, Architecture & Technology (MAAT)

Lisbon Oriente Station

Park of the Nations

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