Essaouira - Morocco's Seaside Escape

Following my disappointing stops at Agadir and Taghazout, I was very keen to get to Essaouira, the final destination of my ten-day Moroccan road trip. A popular day trip destination from Marrakesh, Essaouira is a perfect beachside getaway from the hustle and bustle of Ochre City. This city has long enjoyed a reputation for its relaxing ambiance and laid-back locals. With that, it seemed like a perfect place to unwind and enjoy the gentle sea breeze. From everything I read online and heard from the locals, it genuinely seems like the most universally beloved city in Southern Morocco.

The view from the rooftop terrace of Villa de l'O.

To my surprise, the cost of accommodation here was sky-high. Considering the popularity of Essaouira, there is a shortage of good accommodations in Medina. What was available was rather pricy. For my visit, I spent two nights at Villa de l'O, which is for sure the most massive riad I stayed at in Morocco. The massive stone mansion is a testament to the city’s wealth and cosmopolitan heritage. The road’s massive roof deck also has a spectacular view of Essaouira’s golden beach.

From the moment I arrived at Essaouira, I could immediately tell there was something special about this place. It took me a while to understand why I loved it here. It was not until later that I learned one of the nicknames for Essaouira is the “Windy City of Africa.” Since I grew up in Hsinchu City, the “Windy City of Taiwan,” I felt immediately at home here. The persistent wind helped temper the hot climate. Coincidentally, the wind is at its strongest in the months of July and August, which makes Essaouira a very popular holiday destination among Moroccans seeking relief in the height of the summer.

While Essaouira attracts numerous windsurfers and kite flyers from far and wide throughout the year, the strong wind makes Essaouira a less attractive option for typical beachgoers. If you ask me, the beach appears much nicer without beach umbrellas and frolicking sunbathers. The beach of Essaouira is located in the modern part of the city, just southeast of Medina. Along the vast promenade are numerous cafes and restaurants; it was a great place for a jog or to people watch. Personally, I think it is a much better stretch of sand than Agadir.

Scala Harbor

To better understand the history of Essaouira, the best place to start your visit would probably be Sala Harbor. According to historians, the location of the modern Essaouira has been a trading post for the last 2,200 years. In the 17th century, the ruling sultan, Mohamed Ben Abdella, liberalized the trade policies and actively encouraged the settlement by the Jewish merchant class to settle here in Essaouira. A special quarter for foreign merchants was also set up to help facilitate all the European powers at the time. In its golden age, this harbor handled as much as half of Morocco’s foreign trade.

Gate of the Navy (*Bab El-Marsa*) marks the entrance to the port.

In the middle of the 18th century, the sultan constructed the fortification to be upgraded. The magnificent architecture we see today dates from this period. The official entry of the harbor area is the Gate of the Navy (Bab El-Marsa). The handsome gate is a neoclassical design but includes many Arabic symbols. An Arabic inscription on the pediment reads, “Praise to Allah, this door, ordered by the glorious one of the kings, Sidi Mohammed, was built by its servant Ahmed el Aalj”. On the entablature are four crescent moons, which symbolize the sultan. Much of the fortification was designed by French military architect Théodore Cornut and English architect Ahmed el Inglizi.

Next to the gate is Sqala du Port, the artillery platform guarding the mouth of the harbor. King Manuel I of Portugal commissioned an early 16th-century Portuguese royal castle (Castelo Real) in the Portuguese Manueline style. Perhaps this is why the design is reminiscent of the Belém Tower in Lisbon. Newly renovated, it is now open to the public as a museum. It is one of the most popular tourist spots as one of its circular canon slots perfectly frames Medina's skyline.

The Manueline tower guards the port of Essaouira.

Unfortunately, the bastion was closed during my visit, so I could only rely on the internet and my own imagination. Immediately adjacent to the bastion is a very tiny harbor that could hold about two dozen small fishing boats. This area is considered the best-protected area in the fort in the event of cyclones or enemy attacks. As a result, it is also the smallest part of the fort as water is more stagnant here. There was even some dredging activity happening when I was there.

Fans of Game of Thrones would be happy to know this particular area doubles as the location of the fictional city of Astapor. Even though I never watched a single episode of the show, I do know that the show did have a knack for picking some of the best filming locations worldwide. In the past few years, we have visited so many of their filming locations in Malta, Iceland, and Spain, all by chance. It must be said that we were rarely disappointed, except for Grjotagja Cave in Iceland.

Gutting the fish with a school of seagulls waiting for a piece.

For most visitors, the highlight of the harbor would be a walk through the busy open fish markets. Starting just before the crack of dawn, the fishermen of Essaouira begin to return to port with the evening’s catch. The harbor area was teeming with locals and fishermen until late afternoon. For anyone not used to visiting wet markets, it could be quite a cultural shock to see fish being gutted and sold on the street. As you could expect, the aroma around here was intense.

The fishermen here were surprisingly tolerant of all the foreign tourists. No one seems bothered as big tour groups meandering through the market. It was a refreshing contrast to the constant harassment we experienced in Marrakesh. Essaouira’s laid-back reputation turned out to be quite accurate. Of course, I am not suggesting sticking your giant camera in people’s faces; a level of discretion is still warranted. From my experience, the locals here are friendly and happy to answer your questions. There seems to be a mutual understanding that tourism is essential to the prosperity of Essaouira.

For anyone with more time, it is worthwhile to walk to the far end of the dock to witness the “service area” of the port and away from the throng of tourists. Here, you could witness fishermen repairing the net and refueling the fishing boats. My favorite is watching the crew unloading crates and crates of seafood onto the dock. Surrounding them are large groups of wholesalers bidding up the catch. The multitude of activities is mesmerizing.

Medina of Essaouira

Of all the Medina I visited on this trip, the Medina in Essaouira is my favorite by more than a mile. The old city was designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2001 and is a noted example of a late-18th-century fortified town. Following the latest European military architecture by French engineer Sébastien Le Prestre de Vauban, the seaside ramparts are mighty impressive. If you are keeping track, this is another filming location for Game of Thrones. Luckily, these ramparts are open to the public for free from sunrise to sunset. Indeed, it is the most popular place to watch the sunset. It also appears to be a popular hangout for young couples.

The oceanfront rampart where *Game of Thrones* was filmed.

For me, the best time to visit the ramparts would be early morning, well before the arrival of tourists. The top of the ramparts felt like a world apart from the rest of the city. The sounds of the crashing waves are great stress relievers. To better provide the historical context, nineteen bronze canons were set up at the top of ramparts. Each is inscribed with the year and coats of arms from their nation of origin. Most date back to the late 18th century, when these formidable walls were constructed.

This is probably my favorite photo from my trip to Morocco.

From the seaside ramparts, I noticed many Moroccans began to congregate at the base of the wall along the shore. It turned out that the only way there was through the southern end of the rampart near the port. Since there was no defined path, I had to navigate a few narrow ravines and boulders. But the efforts were well worth it. Come here just before sunset, and you will be rewarded with a stunning view of the honey-colored ramparts and rocky coastlines. I think this might be my favorite spot in all of Morocco.

The landside section of the fortifications is comparatively subdued. However, the entire length of the walls has been fully restored and surrounded by a ribbon of greenspace for public recreation. I was surprised by just how few tourists discovered this particularly tranquil part of the city. In addition to the landscape work, the city also invested heavily in architectural lighting, making Essouira a beautiful place for evening strolls. This attention to heritage preservation is noticeable throughout Medina. Most of the city is painted white and gleamed under the gentle winter sun.

Bab Sbaa is likely the most popular entrance into Medina.

One reason that made Medina of Essaouira so unique is its rational grid plan. Also planned by Théodore Cornut, it followed the rational efficiency of a military garrison town. The town is organized along two main avenues: Avenue de l'Istiqlal and Avenue Allal Ben Abdedilah, connecting the four main gates of Essaouira. Although most secondary streets here largely follow the grid plan, the twisting lanes typical of Morocco could still be found as I ventured deeper into the neighborhood.

The architectural floodlight makes Essaouira a magical place in the evening.

Most of the buildings inside Medina are painted in white and blue. The bright color reflects the daylight down to the street level, making the city tidy and cheerful. Compared to Marrakesh, the streets of Essaouira were a delight to stroll. There are huge teams of street cleaners roving the street to keep things orderly, and visitors are unlikely to be harassed by the street merchants here. While I had a good time here, part of me was sad that I could not share this experience with Brian.

Essaouira has seen plenty of celebrity visitors over the decades. The city’s bohemian reputation attracted the likes of The Rolling Stones, Frank Zappa, Bob Morrison, Jefferson Airplane, and Cat Stevens. But no visitor impacts the city more than American rock star Jimi Hendrix. It is a perpetual question why Essaouira is still obsessed with the musician. Plenty of cafes and riads here claimed some connection with Hendrix. His images still make occasional appearances on the streets of Essaouira.

There were plenty of urban legends about his 11-day visit in July 1969. Some locals claimed he tried to purchase the Iles Purpuraires, while some heard he was making a bid for the nearby village of Diabat. The craziest legend was that he composed Castles Made of Sand while there, even though the track was released two years before his visit. From everything I read, this association with Hendrix predated the rise of modern tourism. However, entrepreneurial locals are certainly happy to perpetuate it into the future.

The seafood shacks next to the port offer the freshest seafood selection.

Although most visitors regard Marrakesh as the ultimate shopping destination in Marrakesh, I found Essaouira to be a lovely place to pick up some souvenirs. Among Moroccans, Essaouira is known for its pottery. All around town, you would find pottery shops selling everything from ornamental platters to tajin pots. The greatest concentration of the pottery stores seems to be located near Bab Skala, the entry gate onto the ramparts. There are also many art galleries, carpet shops, and boutique restaurants to keep you busy. Personally, I am also keen to check out a couple of design shops. Koulchi Concept Store and Minimal Bazaar are among my favorite.

Naturally, the best thing to indulge in Essaouira is seafood. For the “freshest” seafood, head to a row of seafood shacks right off the fishing port. Here, the latest catch is proudly displayed; diners pick out their own fish and discuss the preparation with the chefs. In most restaurants in the city, the menu includes staples of Moroccan dishes but also good selections of seafood dishes. For anyone with a more limited budget, you could be glad to learn quickly that Essaouira is also a street food town. There is no shortage of places to grab a quick bite on cheap. Ironically, my favorite is the doughnut shop on Rue Mohamed El Qorry. For 5 dirhams, I had one of the best doughnuts I could remember.

Jewish Essaouira

In Essaouira’s long history, the most fascinating aspect of the city is its Jewish heritage. Historically, Morocco has been very welcoming to Jews. Each historic city has its own Jewish quartered called mellah. Like the Jewish ghettos in Europe, mellah was walled up and had a fortified gateway that controlled access. But unlike their counterparts in medieval Europe, Moroccan Jews often held senior administration posts within the sultan's court. As a result, mellah is typically located next to either the town’s kasbah or the sultan’s palace. The Jewish population of Essaouira was active in the jewelry and fabric trade. Interestingly, over a few dozen distilleries were operating inside mellah, producing special anise-flavored fig alcohol.

Much of Essaouira *mellah* was laid abandoned but is now at risk of redevelopment.

Cosmopolitan Essaouira is historically known for cultural and religious tolerance. Jewish symbols could be found around the city. Many wealthy Jewish merchants did not even reside within the walls of mellah. In the mid-1950s, the Jewish residents of mellah constituted sixty percent of Essaouira’s population. However, the exodus started with a trickle after Morocco’s independence and became a torrent after the Six-Day War of 1967. One major cause is the establishment of the state of Israel, which encouraged the resettlement of the Jewish diaspora. In a matter of a decade, the city lost 98% of its Jewish population, and mellah became largely abandoned. The condition of the neighborhood was so dire that it was placed on the 2018 World Monuments Watch.

In the past few decades, sections of mellah had been converted for housing to seasonal workers. Since Essaouira’s UNESCO inscription, preservation and potential revitalization have become the focus of the city’s leadership. Many Jewish families who traced their heritage to Essaouira returned to the city on pilgrimage. One of the most evocative Jewish sights is the Old Jewish Cemetery north of mellah. The cemetery contains over 2,200 tombs and is the graveside of Rabbi Ḥaim Pinto, a noted local rabbi who still attracts large numbers of Jewish pilgrims. Although a cemetery was closed to visitors during my visit, I could nevertheless take a quick peek from the terrace of a nearby terrace.

One popular Jewish site open to visitors is Chaim Pinto Synagogue, located in a narrow lane off a busy road through mellah. It used to be the residence of the famed rabbi and one of the very few active synagogues in the city. By most objective metrics, this synagogue is rather small, not particularly remarkable to a layman like me. I did not know enough about Judaism to appreciate it properly. For non-Jewish visitors, a better choice would be Simon Attias Synagogue and the attached Bayt Dakira museum.

Constructed in 1882, Simon Attias Synagogue was commissioned by the widow of a wealthy Jewish merchant who passed away on his trip to the Sahara. It was considered one of the most beautiful places of worship out of the 47 synagogues in the city at the time. Following the exodus, only the prayer room survived the ravage of time. In 2009, the synagogue site was closed for a comprehensive renovation. Bayt Dakira, or House of Memory in Arabic, was officially opened two years ago by King Mohammed VI. The opening also coincided with normalizing diplomatic relations between Israel and Morocco. The Jewish heritage is actually enshrined in the 2011 Moroccan Constitution, alongside African, Amazigh, Andalusian, and Arab cultures.

Nowadays, there are only three active synagogues in Essaouira

Aside from the beautifully restored prayer room, the attached courtyard house is now a full-fledged museum and exhibition center showcasing the history and memory of Jewish life in Essaouira. The start-of-art museum is beautiful, but all the texts are only in Arabic, French, and Hebrew. I must admit that I was a little at a loss. Since the diplomatic normalization, there have been daily flights between the two countries. Nowadays, it is common to see many Orthodox Jews wandering the streets of Essaouira. And it seemed like all the Jewish visitors would inevitably end up at Bayt Dakira. I may not understand much about the artifacts presented, but it is a wonderful thing to see so many Jews exploring their Moroccan roots.

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Essaouira - Morocco's Seaside Escape

Scala Harbor

Medina of Essaouira

Jewish Essaouira

Modernist Lisbon

Aït Benhaddou - A Moroccan Dream