Among the 9/11 Memorials
My family immigrated to the United States in the summer of 2001, just four months before the terrorist attacks on New York and Washington D.C. As a young immigrant, my memory of events surrounding September 11th was that of confusion. As I was still adjusting to an English-speaking environment, it took me a few hours to fully understand the unfolding events. It is fair to say that I have only known post-9/11 America, and I sometimes wonder just how much the events of 9/11 impacted my perception of this country and my place within it.
Hudson Riverfront 9/11 Memorial in Weehawken, New Jersey.
This year marks my twelfth year since I moved to New York City. Sometimes, we New Yorkers forget that we live in one of the most popular tourist destinations in the world. Partially because of the lockdown associated with the ongoing COVID-19 pandemic, we are all homebound and looking to satisfy our wanderlust. It forced us to apply a traveler’s eyes to our own home city. It prompts us to explore many parts of our own environs we would have often overlooked. Although I explored quite a bit of the city as a student, the busy work life dampened my familiarity with New York.
As an architect and designer, I find the design of 9/11 memorials particularly fascinating. Because it was such a consequential and emotionally charged event, how to commemorate it is subjected to magnified debate and public criticism. Here are some of the most significant 9/11 memorials that I visited over the years:
Pentagon Memorial, Arlington
While the collapse of the Twin Towers rightfully garners the majority of spotlights, the attack on the Pentagon is just as emotionally traumatic for the United States. One of the supposedly most secure government facilities in the world was not immune from a terrorist attack; it speaks to the collective vulnerability that Americans experienced in this post-9/11 world. The Pentagon was the only governmental building struck in the attack, and its symbolic message is unmistakable.
The reflecting light underneath the bench is truly magical.
I first became aware of this memorial in 2008 as a graduate student at the Graduate School of Planning and Preservation (GSAPP). A faculty member, Keith Kaseman, is the primary designer of the memorial and has just inaugurated the memorial. Selected from 1,126 entries from around the world and six finalists, the final design of this memorial represents the ‘environmental’ approach to commemorating the dead. Arranged as a field of benches and crape myrtle, the memorial lacks a central monument or a focal point. It is perhaps the design's greatest strength; the park allows a quiet, meditative moment of rest.
Each individual cantilever bench is inscribed with the name of a Pentagon attack victim. Under each bench is a small reflective pool. The movement and light from the water’s reflection breathed life into the otherwise barren hardscape. The reflective pools are illuminated at night to create a shimmering light field. The configurations of benches on the memorial ground are organized based on the age of the victims, from a 77-year-old veteran of the Navy to a 3-year-old girl on American Airlines Flight 77. All benches are oriented on the axis to align with the impact trajectory of the doomed jetliner. The entire memorial is both understated and thoughtful.
I was surprised that it took me eight years to get the excuse to visit the memorial. Though we visited Washington D.C. almost every summer and visited our favorite restaurant, Ambar Clarendon, in Arlington, we never explored much of northern Virginia until recently. Only two years ago, I finally made it a priority to pay a visit. And to my surprise, the memorial is freely accessible despite its proximity to the Pentagon. Supposedly, it is also one of the only prominent 9/11 memorials accessible to the public at all times.
National September 11 Memorial & Museum, New York
Undoubtedly, the most symbolically significant 9/11 memorial in the world is located on the site of the World Trade Center’s Twin Towers. Ever since 2001, the site has been somewhat of a sacred ground. And just like other important sights, any effort for rebuilding was always contentious. From the get-go, the design of the memorial and the development of a new World Trade Center is a matter of great complexity, both in terms of logistic and political considerations. The design competition and its evolution are emblematic of America as a democracy, however messy it may be. Like most Americans, I have followed the saga of forging a national 9/11 memorial.
Immense pool of absence.
It is a sensory experience.
Titled Reflecting Absence, the design of the memorial by Israeli-American architect Michael Arad is deceptively simple. Taking the existing footprint of the Twin Towers, the two massive fountains gave us an understanding of the physical immensity of the towers. The secondary sunken area at the center represents the footprint of the Twin Towers’ core, where banks of elevators and staircases were once located. In acknowledging the presence of the towers, the design paid tribute to the past and provided the basic framework where victims' names were organized.
Leaving a white rose is a common way to commemorate the victim of the attack.
While quite a beautiful and graceful design in its own right, the memorial we saw today was only a watered-down version of the original proposal. The initial design proposal has an underground gallery and remembrance loggia behind the cascading water. It was a poetic and experiential design that would have been architecturally brilliant. For architects and designers, this design is reminiscent of the Vietnam War Memorial by Maya Lin. This is a place of remembrance, not a monument of triumph. But for many victims and their families, the idea of an underground gallery was unacceptable. It somehow connotates defeat and darkness. Part of this hesitation and unease was likely the result of America’s ongoing war in Iraq.
An enormous and haunting place.
Cascading waterfall.
It is fair to say that running a giant fountain of this scale does not come cheap, nor is it an easy feat. The matter is further complicated because the water has to be heated during the winter to prevent freezing up in the depths of New York winter. Even though it is designed as a public plaza, the memorial has limited opening hours, partly to allow maintenance and associated security concerns. To me, this limited access is the biggest drawback of this memorial, considering that it is still part of the urban fabric of Lower Manhattan.
Overall, the sense of awe defines my personal experience during my several visits. The space is incredibly public since you can see one side of the memorial across from another. The sound of cascading water was defeating. I could only imagine just how terrifying the collapse of the towers must have been. The sound of the waterfall is just loud enough to drown out any nearby conversations.
Calatrava’s Oculus in the background.
The new 1 World Trade Center (Freedom Tower).
As impressive as the memorial might be, the site is perhaps most meaningful the week before the September 11th anniversary. Not far from the memorial, the large-scale art installation called The Tribute in Light was set up to create two massive vertical searchlights to commemorate the memory of the Twin Towers. Initiated as a temporary art installation in 2002, it has since been one of the most beloved memorials in the city.
The final component of the memorial is the 9/11 National Museum, the largest museum of its kind in the world. In addition to large-scale artifacts like the original steel columns or the exposed foundation wall of the Twin Towers, the museum is also the repository of many objects that tell the story of that day. But honestly, I have yet to visit the 9/11 National Museum and suspect rather few New Yorkers have been. At $26 per person, the admission price is criminally high. For various reasons, this museum, arguably the most prominent one in the world, was run by a non-profit foundation with little or no funding from the federal government.
To The Struggle Against World Terrorism, Bayonne
One of the 9/11 memorials stood out for its unusual history and location. Colloquially referred to as the Tear Drop Memorial, the monument is impressive in its scale and artistic imagination. The ten-story steel frame structure is clad with bronze panels and decorated with a 30-foot tall stainless steel teardrop suspended in the middle. The chasm in the middle represents the destruction of terrorism and the gaping wound in people’s memory.
The giant dangling ball of stainless steel.
But this place is intriguing because of its history and unusual physical setting. This is a gift from President Vladimir Putin on behalf of the Russian people. As the name suggests, the monument pays tribute to the victims of terrorism around the world, and it speaks to Russia’s own struggle with the separatist movements in places like Chechnya. Georgian-Russian sculptor Zurab Tsereteli carried out the design. To say Tsereteli is controversial would be an understatement. Known for his oversized and outlandish outdoor sculptures, he has long been favored by nationalist autocrats like President Putin and long-time Moscow mayor Yury Luzhkov.
The monument overlooks the New York Bay onward Ground Zero.
The dedication plaque.
One of his most infamous works reached the Statue of Peter the Great in central Moscow. Situated just across the river from the city’s main cathedral, the sculpture is so grotesque that it has been ridiculed since its installation. The rumor went that it was commissioned as a statue of Columbus for a Las Vegas casino but was rejected by the client. And that was not the first time his works were turned down. Tsereteli’s other massive statue, Birth of the New World, has a similarly troubled history as numerous American cities rejected it before finding a home in a remote small town in Puerto Rico.
The story of the Tear Drop Memorial is no different from many of his other works. It was initially slated for a prominent waterfront location in Jersey City. But the city officials rejected this ‘gift’ swiftly upon the unveiling of its design. For some, the resemblance of female genitalia or a hanging testicle seems too unsightly. It has also been listed as one of the ugliest monuments in the world by various magazines since then. The association with President Putin certainly is of little help for its popularity in the press. It was regarded as Putin’s answer to France’s gift to the American People, the Statue of Liberty.
Quite a beautiful monument in my opinion.
322-feet tall Peter the Great Statue in Moscow.
Upon the rejection by Jersey City officials, the statue was relocated to the Old Military Ocean Terminal at neighboring Bayonne. It is undoubtedly the most bizarrely located memorial I have ever visited. Hidden behind the rows of industrial warehouses and a cruise terminal, the memorial is on a no man’s land. It took me eight years after moving to this part of Jersey for me to come to visit. Even then, we mainly visited because it was just a few minutes from our local Costco. That said, I think it is the most intriguing 9/11 memorial out there.
Empty Sky Memorial, Jersey City
Every municipality in the New York City metropolitan area has its own 9/11 memorial. My home city, Jersey City, is no exception. Because the World Trade Center hosted many important corporations and was easily accessible via PATH trains, a disproportionately large number of residents here lost their lives in the attack that fateful day. It was only natural that Jersey City would have our memorial. Having rejected Putin’s gift, Jersey City holds a design competition for a memorial located within Liberty State Park. Of course, Jersey City is blessed with one of the picturesque backgrounds: the skyline of Lower Manhattan.
Steel girder of the Twin Towers.
The Empty Sky above the Ground Zero.
Designers Jessica Jamroz and Frederic Schwartz took advantage of the amazing backdrop and oriented visitors toward the missing towers. Entitled Empty Sky, the design intent is crystal clear. The monument directs visitors toward the waterfront as the twin walls frame the ‘empty sky’ that the Twin Towers once stood. Along the walls are stainless steel panels inscribed with the names of victims from New Jersey. The design pays architectural tribute to Maya Lin’s Vietnam War Memorial. Like Lin’s black granite, the stainless steel reflects the city’s skyline and creates a beautiful halo effect when the sun is low.
The memorial happens to be also a popular place for photoshoot.
Names of New Jerseyans who lost their life that day.
The beautiful skyline of Lower Manhattan.
Even though Liberty State Park may not be quite accessible from downtown Jersey City, a visit to the memorial is a must. Not only does it offer you a beautiful view, but it is also situated near the historic Communipaw Terminal building and the nearby ferry to the Statue of Liberty. And speaking of September 11th and Jersey City, it gained great notoriety a few years ago because of Donald Trump. Stereotypically, he falsely claimed that:
“I watched in Jersey City, N.J., where thousands and thousands of people were cheering” as the World Trade Center collapsed.”
It was just one of Donald Trump's numerous original sins. As a Jersey City resident, I could not describe how disgusting his conspiracy theory is. Jersey City has been known as one of the most diverse cities in the country. For the president of the United States to insult the people of Jersey City is simply unconscionable. I could only hope a separate plaque denouncing the president would be erected around the park.
Flight 93 National Memorial, Stoystown
The highjacking of United Flight 93 was an unsuccessful attempt to direct a separate attack on Washington D.C. Most investigators believe that its ultimate target was either the White House or Capitol Hill. It would have been a truly horrific catastrophe and destruction of an American historical monument. For most Americans, flight 93 is forever remembered for the bravery of its passengers in their valiant attempt to retake the cockpit from the terrorists. For many, the 2006 docudrama United 93 thriller film United 93 further engrains the tragic event in the collective consciousness of Americans.
The exhibition and interpretive center.
Even though very few traces of the crash remain, the memorial does its best to preserve the vast expanse of the field. The massive 2,200-acre site was procured by various donations and even the proceeds from the film United 93. A simple white marble wall anchors the memorial called the Wall of Names, where the names of individual victims are inscribed. But the highlight for me is the concrete and glass visitor pavilion, which includes a vast array of artifacts and interactive exhibits that provide the necessary context for the event that fateful day. The exhibition includes a detailed timeline of the flight and the various archival recordings from the flight. Names and actions of various passengers are detailed and give an intimate portrait of humanity in a time of crisis.
Interestingly, this is the only 9/11 memorial administered by the National Park Service. It was created by an act of Congress sponsored by Senator Arlen Specter and Congressman John Murtha. And like any other memorial, its development and design were mired with controversy and disputes. Nevertheless, the memorial ground today is solemn.
It is also the least architecturally interesting 9/11 memorial I have visited thus far. However, it is by no means a criticism. Located 90 minutes southeast of Pittsburgh, the memorial is a bit out of the way from the main attractions in western Pennsylvania. But despite its remoteness, the memorial is well-visited and has since become a place of pilgrimage for many Americans. I sometimes wonder whether this reverence will persist in the coming decades.
