Newport Off-Season

The pandemic makes you do things differently. With border closure and varying degrees of barriers to travel, we all have to adjust our travel habits and dreams. This was certainly the case when we decided to spend a long weekend in Newport, Rhode Island, in the depths of winter. After visiting my in-laws in Connecticut, we drove two hours to Rhode Island. Despite being one of the most popular tourist destinations along the eastern seaboard, Newport has been off my radar since I moved to New York City in 2008. Indeed, I can’t believe it has been more than twelve years since my last visit.

The Newport Tower, also known as Old Stone Mill.

My first visit to Newport was in the summer of 2006 when I was on a travel fellowship from the University of Illinois at Urbana-Champaign. This independent fellowship focuses on visiting key monuments of early American architecture along the Eastern Seaboard. It was my first time traveling independently for an extended period of time. The trip took me from Portland, Maine, to Williamsburg, Virginia, and was memorable. I certainly became somewhat of a connoisseur of 18th and 19th-century architecture in America.

My dad joined and flew in from California for my Newport portion of the trip. I have already read that Newport is among the most magical places on my itinerary, and I was happy to share my visit with him. It might have been my first and only father-and-son trip together. For that reason, Newport also has a special place in my heart. Inevitably, it was quite an emotional experience to revise many of the same sites all these years later.

The Unique Rhode Island

Ever since I immigrated to the United States, I am always fascinated by two states: Delaware and Rhode Island. Both were among the thirteen original colonies and the smallest and least memorable among the fifty states for most Americans. Nicknamed “Little Rhody,” Rhode Island is the smallest state in the union by geographic area and ranks 45th in population. But for anyone interested in American history, Rhode Island is a treasure trove in colonial heritage. Although Massachusetts may have the Puritans and Virginia got the Jamestown settlement, Rhode Island’s founding history is my favorite.

Founded in 1644, the colony was established by a group of religious dissidents led by theologian Roger Williams. The nearby Massachusetts Bay Colony prosecuted Williams himself for his ‘radical’ religious belief. As a result, Williams was a staunch advocate for religious freedom and the separation of church and state. These values were enshrined early in Rhode Island's charter and remain the core of America’s national values even today. Rhode Island is, without a doubt, my favorite of the original thirteen colonies.

Monument to Commodore Matthew C. Perry, which commemorates the forced opening of Japan to foreign interaction.

Rhode Island is full of oddity and contradiction. For one, it was the first to declare independence from Great Britain. It was also the last one to ratify the Constitution due to civil liberty concerns. Although Rhode Island had a heritage of civil liberty, it was also one of the main transit points of the transatlantic slave trade and was the largest slave auction market in the Americas. Once one of the wealthiest cities in the Western Hemisphere, Newport played a big part in the slave trade. But as far as I can tell, there is little physical acknowledgment of this dark history chapter.

Redwood Library & Athenaeum, the oldest circulating library in the country.

Newport is an absolute delight if you are a trivia enthusiast like myself. Walking down the streets of Newport was a trip down history lane. Newport does a great job of highlighting many of its historic monuments. Just about every other building in the historic downtown bears a plaque denoting the building’s name and year of construction. The city is steeped in colonial history and boasts an impressive number of “firsts” in the United States. The list of Newport’s first was long and interesting, but here are just some of my favorites:

Newport’s Redwood Library & Athenaeum is the oldest circulating library in the United States, still in continuous operation.
The city has the oldest gas-lit streetlamps in the United States.
The first regularly scheduled passenger air route was between Newport and New York City.
Newport hosted the first international polo match and the first US Open Golf Tournament.
Newport was the first city to pass a traffic ordinance.
Touro Synagogue is the oldest synagogue in the United States.
Newport hosts the first birth celebration of President George Washington.

Among my favorite Rhode Island trivia is the state's name. Not only is Rhode Island not an island, but it also has one of the longest state names: the State of Rhode Island & Providence Plantation. And it was not until a few months ago that Rhode Island officially shortened its name to simply the “State of Rhode Island” due to the unfavorable connotation of the term “plantation’. The drive to change the state’s name has been decades in the work. Fair or not, the origin of Providence Plantation has no historical connection to slavery. Nevertheless, the racial awareness that sprang up in the past year certainly makes the name change inevitable.

Statue of Dr. William Ellery Channing in Touro Park.

The most notable landmark of colonial Rhode Island is arguably the Old Colony House. Situated at one end of Eisenhower Park, the Georgian-style brick structure is modest, to say the least. Another quirk of Rhode Island’s heritage is that the colony (and eventually the state) rotated its capital between Providence and Newport. Newport ceased to be the co-capital until the marble-clad state capitol building (by McKim, Mead & White) in Providence in 1900. It was funny that this tiny structure had been in the state legislature for over 160 years. I took a guided tour during my previous visit, and it was among the finest legislature buildings I have visited.

Thames Street

Downtown Newport is compact and is perfect for on-foot exploration. While Newport has plenty of historical and national monuments, the true joy of Newport is the city’s vast collection of historic homes, with many dating as far back as the late 17th century, which is practically ancient by American standards. I could only imagine how unimpressed European visitors may feel. But for Americans, Newport is a treasure trove like no other. Through strict building codes and a strong civic tradition of historic preservation, the city managed to maintain its colonial heritage more than any other city I know. It always surprises me that Newport is not on the tentative list of UNESCO World Heritage Sites.

The city's main tourist drag is Thames Street. Running parallel to the waterfront, the thoroughfare is lined with numerous eateries and tourist shops. The street's northern end, close to the main wharf, has a carnival atmosphere and plenty of tacky souvenir shops. Anchored by an outdoor shopping mall called the Brick Marketplace, the so-called Upper Thames Street is anything we want to avoid in travel. And without the summer crowd, it all seems very sad. Luckily, it only took a few blocks to escape the crass consumerism.

Queen Ann Square is a lovely park that reminds us of the typical New England town green. The park, while idyllic, was a rather modern creation from the 1970s under the auspice of a philanthropist. Ironically, many of the original structures were relocated to create the park, and the landscape we see today was designed in 2011 by famous landscape architect Maya Lin. What draws visitors here is the view of the colonial-era Trinity Church. This brought me a fond memory of my previous visit. I remembered sitting at this spot, sketching the church steeple.

We could not come to Rhode Island without sampling the greats of Rhode Island classics: lobster roll, clam chowder, clam cakes, and stuffed quahog. Despite the pandemic and the depth of winter, plenty of restaurants survived. During our weekend trip, we dined at two different fabulous places: Thames Street Kitchen and Knot Norm's To Go & Eatery. The freshness and exquisite preparation of the seafood blew us away. Best of all, I could report that the prices were more than reasonable, considering that Newport is among the most touristy locale along the East Coast.

A great benefit of the off-season visit was the absence of the shoulder-to-shoulder tourist crowd and the stress-free parking situation. From November 1st through April 30th, visitors enjoyed unlimited parking at municipal lots. It took the edge out of parking anxiety, which, to be honest, is perhaps the last thing any traveler should be stressed about. Visiting Newport during the off-season could be a lovely experience, especially for a history lover like myself.

The Breakers - Grand Edifice of the Gilded Age

No visit to Newport will be complete without a tour of one of the city’s famous gilded-age mansions. There were about a dozen major mansions in Newport. But the most notable ones are all managed by Newport Mansions, a preservation initiative by The Preservation Society of Newport County. As the trustee of these historic houses, the organization is the custodian key advocate for the long-term preservation of these mega-mansions. During my first visit to Newport in 2006, I visited only one Newport mansion: the Marble House. Honestly, I did not remember exactly why I picked the Mable House. Ironically, I think the lower admission price might have drawn me in. It was funny how much my shoestring student budget dictated my visit back then.

The Breakers are high on my bucket list for my return visit all these years later. But at $26, the stiff admission price did give me pause. In comparison, admission to Marble House is $18. Luckily, being off-season amid a pandemic, the Breakers was the only mansion opened for a visit, so it was not as if we had numerous options. The Breakers is a summer ‘cottage’ of Cornelius Vanderbilt II, a member of the Vanderbilt railroad dynasty. This replaces a “humbler” cottage that previously stood on this site. Designed by noted American architect Richard Morris Hunt, this grand residence was completed in three years.

Constructed with the Renaissance Revival style, The Breakers is perhaps the best “Italian palazzo” in North America. And I wonder how this structure would look if teleported to the middle of Rome. Amazingly, it only took three years to complete the whole structure, including the over-the-top interior. That was so depressing, considering construction nowadays takes forever, even for a simple modern house. But as impressive as the house is, Cornelius Vanderbilt only got to enjoy it a few short years before his death.

Building staff meticulously cleaning the chandelier.

As in most Newport mansions, the Breakers’ upkeep is an enormous expense, and its ostentatious size makes it hardly homely as a private residence. These houses were designed to impress and entertain; we could hardly imagine living here full-time. Just fifty years after its completion, Cornelius’s youngest daughter, Gladys Vanderbilt Széchenyi, leased the mansion to the Preservation Society of Newport County for the grand annual sum of $1. The interior content, including priceless artworks and furniture, was also sold to the Society for approximately $2.2 million in today’s dollars.

As a condition of the sales, it is agreed upon the third floor will remain the residential quarter of the Vanderbilt descendants. This arrangement benefited both parties since the Vanderbilts are part of the house’s history. However, this seemingly amicable agreement came to an abrupt end in 2018. In a press release, the Society stated that the private family quarter is unfit for residential use due to non-compliance with the local building code. However, stories have emerged that the eviction of Vanderbelets resulted from the family’s public disapproval of the construction of a new visitor center on the ground.

The Upper Loggia that offers the best view of the “breaking of the waves”.

The Breakers, or Vanderbelt’s Biltmore Estate in Ashville, is as close to a royal residence in America as it could be. Though impressive in scale and craftsmanship, I can’t help but compare it to the grand royal palaces of Europe. I could imagine it would be quite a letdown for any European visitors. No matter how grand it is, the Breakers could not hold the candle to the grand palaces of European royalties.

Like other Newport mansions of this era, the Breakers had all the bells and whistles of the latest modern technology. From intercom to advanced elevator systems, the house is a technological triumph. I would speculate that their Beneath The Breakers Tour would be perhaps the most interesting behind-the-theme tour they offered. Our favorite sections of the tour focus on the building systems' inner workings. It was always enjoyable to imagine how life was in the decades past. I always ask myself whether I would prefer to live in luxury like the Breakers without air conditioning.

Speaking of technological advancement, a silver lining of the ongoing pandemic has got to be the adoption of new interactive technology in the tourism sector. During COVID-19, all docent-led guided tours have been replaced with a digital version. I was thoroughly impressed by the amazing app and digital content that the Preservation Society developed. It is one of the most sophisticated digital tours I have ever tried, and I honestly believe it is far superior to an in-person guide, given that we could enjoy the tour at our own pace. There was still plenty of staff on hand to answer any questions.

The pièce de résistance of our Breaker House visit is a walk around the back garden and take in the grand facade. Luckily, we were blessed with a crisp blue sky. For a grand house, we honestly expect a more elaborate garden. So it was a surprise that the ocean-facing garden is just a flat lawn with little ornamentation or design. But with a beautiful ocean view beyond, perhaps less is more.

The Cliff Walk

Newport's famous Cliff Walk is a great alternative if one is not interested in paying $28 to see the Breakers. The 3.5-mile walkway runs from Bailey's Beach to Easton Beach and is among the top Newport attractions for visitors. A designated National Recreation Trail, the pathway offers a scenic leisure stroll along the waterfront under the gazes of many of Newport’s most famous mansions, such as Ochre Court, Rosecliff, Beechwood, Marble House, Rough Point, and many others. While I was tempted to walk the full length, a 7-mile roundtrip seems just a little bit much on a cold winter day. Normally, a handy shuttle service ferries visitors from one end of the walk to another. Of course, the pandemic changed it all.

Luckily, there were plenty of public access points along the route. So, there is no need to begin walking from the usually crowded beaches on either end. Few public amenities were available since the public walkway went before the private oceanfront properties, especially during the pandemic. Ultimately, we only walked the short section between Easton Beach and the Breakers. Along the way, we passed through the campus of Salve Regina University, which happens to be one of the most ‘regal’ university campuses in America. Brian’s cousin Caroline attended college here.

.The gate along the Cliff Walk at the Breakers.

Beautiful scenery and grand architecture aside, what I marveled at the most is the existence of the trail itself. Despite the wealthy landowners all along the way, this historically significant walkway somehow persevered. In a country where public ownership reigns supreme, a public trial in front of one of America’s most lavish mansions speaks volumes of the power of continuous civic engagement through the decade. The popularity of Cliff Walk is a triumph for public land in America.

Ocean Drive & Fort Adam State Park

Another classic Newport activity would be a leisurely drive along Ocean Drive. The ten-mile waterfront road looped together with a string of ‘modest’ mansions, pristine beaches, and a golf course. Even though it was a public roadway, the scenery seemed perfectly manicured. It reminds me of 17 Miles Drive on the Monterey Peninsula in California. As we drove from mansion to mansion, we couldn’t help but open up the real estate app to check the real estate values around here. Compared to the Hamptons, Newport offers beautiful architecture at a great price point.

At the end of Ocean Drive, a left turn brought us to Fort Adams State Park. As the name suggests, the park is anchored by Fort Adam, an 18th-century fortification constructed not long after the republic's founding. The structure is part of the larger coastal defense system, which played an integral role in the history of the War of 1812 against the British. Although the fort never came under attack during its 150 years of military use, it nevertheless holds great significance in American military history.

Most Interestingly, the fort was once home to the United States Naval Academy. After the start of the American Civil War, President Lincoln instructed the relocation of the naval academy from Annapolis, Maryland, due to widespread southern sympathy among Marylanders. Of course, it also did not help that Annapolis was at the geographical frontline of the War. Even though the Naval Academy was only headquartered in Newport for four years, the top brass of the naval command was impressed by the natural harbor of Narragansett Bay. As a result, Newport was selected as the site of the United States Naval War College.

This was my second time at Fort Adams. But interestingly, I always seemed to pick my visit when the fort was closed to visitors. Even though I never got to visit the interior, it was a wonderful place to take in the panoramic view of Narragansett Bay. From the tip of the fortress, you could enjoy a splendid sight of downtown Newport and the Claiborne Pell Bridge, which is prominently featured in the state quarter of Rhode Island.

Just a short drive from the fort was an unassuming house at the top of a hill. Nicknamed "Eisenhower House,” the house was a former commander’s house of Fort Adam and the summer residence of President Dwight Eisenhower. Since Eisenhower was the Supreme Commander of the Allied Forces during the war, he always found himself at home in the military setting. For me, Eisenhower House is emblematic of the magic of Newport. Wherever we turn, there is fascinating history waiting to be discovered.

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The Unique Rhode Island

Thames Street

The Breakers - Grand Edifice of the Gilded Age

The Cliff Walk

Ocean Drive & Fort Adam State Park

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