Doha - Pearl of the Arabian Gulf — Tuljak! Travel Blog

Visiting the Gulf States (not including Iran) has never been high on my list. Flushed with seemingly unlimited cash from their oil wealth, gulf states could easily fall into the cliche of air-conditioned luxury shopping malls and super-tall skyscrapers. Our first foray into the region was a quick overnight stay in Dubai a year prior. Honestly, it confirmed our worst fear. Other than relatively high prices, there is a deafening absence of local culture. Almost all Gulf states that receive many international visitors are dominated by the ex-pat population, mainly from South and Southeast Asia. Indeed, people often joke that the only Qatari you would meet are law enforcement or officers manning passport control.

Abdulla bin Zaid Al Mahmoud Islamic Cultural Center (also known as the Spiral Mosque).

Like so many fellow travelers, our visit to Qatar was attributed to the affordable flights offered by Qatar Airways. Qatar's national airline, one of the big three Middle Eastern airlines, got high marks for exemplary services and modern elegance. Compared to the gaudy gold-plated Emirates, Qatar Airways seems to combine the warmth of Arabian hospitality with the restraint of modernism. With only a day and a half on the ground, we got to experience a curated slice of the Qatari capital.

Let’s Talk Qatar

My earliest memory of Qatar was a visit to Paris about ten years ago. Like any other tourist, I made an obligatory stop at the Arc de Triomphe and was fascinated by the grand architecture along the Champs-Élysées. Occupied a prime corner facing the Arch is a stately neoclassical mansion that functions as the Embassy of Qatar. Even though it is not unusual to find foreign missions in grand buildings worldwide, few were as grand and prominently located as this embassy building. And just over the fence was a giant sculpture of a candy sporting Qatari colors. For whatever reason, the image of the giant Qatari candy stuck in my mind. I later learned that the piece is Bonbon Drapeau Qatar, part of the series by French artist Laurence Jenkell. This regal and flamboyant image of Qatar stuck in my head for whatever reason.

Among the Middle East powerhouses, Qatar is often considered a rebellious sibling with a fiercely independent streak. Where did Qatar acquire this reputation? Many historians attribute it to the nation’s history as a safe haven for pirates in the Gulf area. Rahmah ibn Jabir Al Jalhami, a notorious 18th-century pirate, even became a ruler of Qatari land. While its Gulf neighbors like Bahrain or the United Arab Emirates were happy to play the little brother of the much larger Saudia Arabia, Qatar is not afraid to step out and befriend Arab’s rival across the Gulf, Iran. Confident with the country’s well-managed oil wealth, Doha’s foreign policies are often described as ‘confident’ and ‘maverick’.

Of course, Qatar’s adventurous international postures could cut both ways. The world was shocked and in awe when Doha was selected as the 2022 FIFA World Cup host. Who would have thought a tiny desert nation with little soccer heritage would be the host? It was a testament to the country’s savvy foreign politicking. On the other hand, Qatar’s adventurous diplomacy also ran afoul of the much more conservative neighbors. In 2017, a coalition led by Saudia Arab imposed a diplomatic and economic blockade of Qatar, which only ended in January of 2021.

Like other Gulf neighbors, Qatar’s pearl-diving past is a distant memory nowadays. Petroleum and liquid natural gas account for as much as 90% of Qatar’s economic output. But as a first-time visitor, I would not have guessed this overwhelming reliance on natural resources. Besides Qatar Airways, another key export of this tiny country is Al Jazeera, a multinational news empire that could serve up good reporting worldwide while subtly promoting the modern image of Qatar as a progressive Middle Eastern state.

As far as I am concerned, the successive emirs of Qatar have done an incredible job of modernizing the country while retaining a veneer of heritage and tradition. Even though people may have said that Qatar had it easy with all the oil in the ground, I always say that one need not look further than Iraq and Venezuela to know that oil and gas are no guarantee of wealth or welfare for a country.

Museum of Islamic Arts

As an architect, my preconception of Doha and Qatar is limited to just one building: the Museum of Islamic Arts. Designed by American architect Ieoh Ming Pei, the museum is one of the masterpieces of modern architecture in the Gulf Region. Before the inauguration of Jean Nouvel’s National Museum of Qatar in 2019, Pei’s museum has been the most recognized symbol of Doha. Just as Qatar sought to establish itself as the cultural center of the Gulf states, this museum was the predominant center of Islamic arts.

First glimpse of Pei’s museum strucutre.

Situated at the southern end of Doha’s Corniche, the museum is a stroll away from the Old Doha. After emerging from the underpass of Al Corniche, we walked along the waterfront, passing through an impressive fleet of wooden dhow boats for recreational fishing. At the far horizon was West Bay, an ultra-modern district filled with high rises and Western-style luxury resorts. The museum emerged like a modern citadel just past the main marina complex. Built upon an artificial island, the structure stood out and naturally drew us in.

The immediate ground around the museum was absolutely beautiful. According to various legends, Pei was so concerned about the constant construction activities in Doha that he convinced the Emir to construct this island and allow his museum to stand out from the adjacent urbanscape. It was a beautiful oasis in Doha’s urban sprawl, surrounded by fountains and palm trees. Despite being the depth of winter, it was still quite warm in Doha this time of the year. Shades of the palm trees were a welcome respite to the blazing sun.

Beautifully landscaped approach to the museum entry.

It was as if entering into a modern fortress.

Stark and unembellished, the building exterior looked intimidating at first. For anyone familiar with Pei’s work, the angular building mass is reminiscent of his Modern Wing at the National Art Gallery. The facade is clad in cream-colored limestone, but the bands of dark granite accent make the approach far more personable than it first appears. The final approach to the museum entrance was through a bridge over an artificial moat. Oddly, I thought this building would make an awesome entry pavilion for a high-end resort. Is that a shallow thing to say?

To my great surprise, admission to the museum is free and has only minor security measures to get through. Just past the entry is the grand atrium, which reveals Pei’s mastery of complex geometric shapes. A strong sense of geometry has always been his design signature, but his design here is elevated to a new height. While appearing symmetrical at first, the layering of various spaces in and around the atrium was amazingly complex. My favorite architectural element is the massive triangular spandrels supporting the main dome. This slight asymmetry creates a wonderfully kaleidoscope-like effect. I felt like I spent half an hour gazing at the dome above us.

Indeed, this museum was one of the very last buildings Pei ever designed, and it is my favorite of his. As a Taiwanese American, my dad always reveres the works of Pei and admires the restrained simplicity of his works. Because of his admiration, I have always felt Pei was a little overrated. Other than his Louvre Pyramid in Paris and Luce Memorial Chapel in Taichung, I found the rest of his works monotonous compared to other ‘starchitects.’ In my opinion, Pei's greatest achievement is his prolific career and the sheer number of projects he completed. The longer I practice as an architect, the more I can appreciate his talents in managing his high-profile clients.

While the architecture is perhaps the main draw, the museum's vast collection is very enjoyable. Due to Isam’s general preference for aniconism, Islamic arts tend to be void of figurative arts. Instead, artists and artisans channeled their creative energies to more elaborate geometric patterns and intricate depictions of the natural world. I would be the first to admit that whenever I visit an art museum like New York’s Metropolitan Museum of Art, I often skip the Islamic galleries because of my own ignorance of this genre of fine art.

For a novice like myself, MIA’s permanent collection is a wonderful introduction to Islamic arts. It covers religious arts from the Gulf regions and secular objects from all worldwide. From navigational instruments to the vast array of weaponry, there are plenty of interesting objects to keep our attention for two or three hours. In particular, the art of Arabic calligraphy was especially mesmerizing. Arabic calligraphy seems particularly versatile as an art form compared to its Chinese counterpart. It was often difficult to discern the writing from the art form. They are particularly impressive on delicate glass objects.

Wonderfully modern take on Arabian design.

Each gallery floor is dedicated to specific types of objects. For many, the highlight was the impressive tapestry collection on the top floor gallery. We particularly enjoyed the temporary exhibition on the ground floor: Syria Matter. The exhibit highlighted Syria’s illustrious history and cultural contribution to the Islamic world. Our visit also coincided with the height of the refugee crisis in and outside Syria. It also came at the heel of disturbing reports that ISIS has deliberately destroyed many ancient Syrian archaeological sites. From Palmyra to the ancient city of Aleppo, many endangered sites were digitally reconstructed in this exhibit.

In the past year, Brian has visited various German universities to interview searchers on how Western nations worked with an influx of Syrian refugees. This exhibit brought to us how history and current events intersect with one another. At the same time, it was quite a sobering thought that the destruction of cultural heritage was ongoing. They were not only a loss of the Islamic world but the whole of humanity.

Just across from the special exhibit was a modest gift shop, which is always one of our favorite parts of any museum visit. Like Qatar itself, the gift shop merchandise was particularly stylish. If it were not for our two-week onward journey to Sri Lanka, it would have been a great place for souvenir shopping. And for those with a deep pocket, the museum also hosts one of the most prestigious restaurants in the country: IDAM by Alain Ducasse. But the adjacent fountained courtyard was just as lovely for those with a more reasonable budget like ourselves.

Souq Waqif

Right in the center of Old Doha is Souq Waqif, the undisputed center of tourist activities in Doha. Given my limited travel experiences in the Middle East, I could only compare it to the Grand Bazaar of Istanbul or Mutrah Souq of Muscat. I have assumed that traditional souq occupies a peculiar place in modern and prosperous nations like Qatar or the United Arab Emirates. People would tell you that air-conditioned shopping malls are among the most important places of socialization in the Gulf nations; traditional Souq has all been a thing of the past in recent decades. Inevitably, the Arabic-style souqs in this region have long succumbed to the Disneyfication of modern tourism.

I had little expectations before visiting Souq Waqif, but I was glad to be proven wrong. Although it is far from authentic, I could honestly say that the Qataris managed to preserve elements of the historic souq, from architecture to its wonderful fragrance. Souq Waqif, meaning “Standing Marketplace” in Arabic, dates back more than a century and was the center of lively livestock markets of the Bedouins. It earned its name back when nomadic merchants conducted business with no fixed stalls, hence named the “Standing Marketplace.”

With increased prosperity from the oil wealth, the souq went into a steady decline due to the change in consumer behaviors. In 2003, a massive fire destroyed much of the historic souq. Paradoxically, the fire was also a turning point that the historic souq needed. Its destruction brought attention to Doha’s vanishing heritage; members of Qatari royal families took interest and personally sponsored the revitalization. A large swatch of the market we see nowadays was brand new construction, but the architect managed to merge the new construction with the historical structure effortlessly. Behind the manicured facades, narrow lanes of the historic souq survived.

Many shops in the souq close down in the middle of the day for rest.

The souq also retains another signature character from the past: serious bargaining is a must. Bargaining has never been my thing, and I was glad I was not in the shopping mood. Nevertheless, browsing various shops was endless entertaining. Like any good souq, the whole area is organized largely by trade. Aside from a small tourist-centric handicraft section, Souq Waqif has an impressive collection of jewelers and spice traders. But my personal favorites by far were pet shops. I have heard that dog ownership is generally frowned upon in this part of the world, so it was fascinating to look at the pet of choice for the locals.

Growing up in Asia, I am accustomed to pet shops of these kinds. They inevitably brought up some nostalgia for me. I later read a few articles that raised concerns about the appalling conditions in which these animals were kept. These articles caught me a little flat-footed; they made me wonder how one’s upbringing could impact cultural perceptions on issues such as animal welfare. And the cynic in me immediately thought of the comparison to America’s poultry farms or cattle feedlots. Honestly, I wonder which is worse.

The “Yellow Birds”! — The “Yellow Birds”.

Of course, perhaps the major draw to Souq Waqif is its impressive collection of restaurants. Like many other Gulf states metropolises, Doha is known as a city of ex-pats. As a result, it may be easier to get an American burger or a bowl of chicken adobo than authentic Qatari dishes. The souq offers a good ‘excuse’ to showcase many regional restaurants that are otherwise difficult to find in the city. Although I am no expert in Middle Eastern cuisine, I am quite happy to see such a vast array of regional restaurants all within such a compact area.

The ambiance around the souq was unparalleled. Although pricey even by Qatari standards, we thoroughly enjoyed our meal at the two restaurants here in the souq: Aloosh Restaurant, an Iraqi establishment, and Damasca One, a Syrian restaurant. Back home, the cuisine of this region has always been generalized as “Middle Eastern.” At most, you might have places specialized in Iranian or Israeli from time to time. It was refreshing to see the subtle differences among various national cuisines. I wish we spent more time in Doha to sample all the national restaurants, particularly the Yemeni restaurant.

Falcon & Livestock Souq

Like any Middle Eastern souq, it is not complete without a visit to the most specialized section: the Falcon Souq. The falconry is integral to the local Arabian culture. In the past, the practice of falconry was an important tool for their major source of protein. But with the rise of oil wealth and the ban on hunting in many of the Gulf States, falconry today lost its original function. Instead, the artistry of falconry has been reinvented as an embodiment of Arabian heritage. These majestic birds are not just ordinary pets. Costing as much as half a million in some cases, they often live a life of luxury. There is no wonder why falcons have their own dedicated souq, separated from the pet section of Souq Waqif.

Outside of the Middle East, falconry is also popular in places like Central Asia and the United Kingdom. But without question, the Gulf States is the biggest market and has the most ‘sophisticated’ culture regarding technology and development of the falconry industry. The Arab’s passion for falcons could seem like a cultural curiosity to foreigners. One example is the well-organized falcon pageantry competitions, which lead to many supporting businesses such as plastic surgery for these birds and veterinarians specialized in tending to these birds.

Horse Stable with modern skyline of West Bay in the distance.

Falcon Souq, located northwest of the main souq, is easily accessible to visitors. It was quite a jarring experience for first-time visitors like ourselves. Seeing these magnificently standing in complete stillness was nothing but odd. We were just amazed at how calm they were. And like any pet shop around the wall, the bread and butter of the business seem to be ever-expanding pet accessories. It was fun to browse, from the leather gloves to the elaborate falcon hood. We also wonder just how many tourists bought falconry gear here as souvenirs.

Just beyond Falcon Souq are two additional sections dedicated to other animals that hold a special significance for Qataris: Arabian horses and camels. We were pleasantly surprised that we could go around and even pet the animals. The place seems abandoned but meticulously kept. We couldn’t help feeling that we were in a Potemkin village. The dramatic skyline in the distance definitely added to our eerie and surreal experience of Doha.

Spring Festival 2019-2020

When we first arrived in Doha, we were surprised by how festive Sou Waqif was. Serendipitously, our visit to Doha coincided with the annual Spring Festival. Running between December 21st and January 4th, the festivity coincides with major holidays for locals and foreign visitors. What is Spring Festival, you might ask? It was a combination of the pan-Islamic cultural festival and carnival funfair. Starting at 2 pm. each day, the parade and pageantry were well-choreographed and organized. The contingents across the Middle East performed local folk dances and traditional outfits. Luckily, each group carried their national flag alongside the Qatari flag. It made the identification a whole lot easier.

While traditional performances dominated the program during the day, things turned a little crazy after dark. Among those on parade were Western acrobatic groups, musicians behind Venetian masks on stilts, and magicians with the outlandish neo-light outfits. The outlandish and ultra-modern performance at night contrasted with the traditional performance earlier. The Spring Festival is not traditional; its main objective was merely to provide as much entertainment as possible.

The festival also brought about quite an impressive array of art exhibitions around the souq. This being still a relatively conservative nation by Western standards, most of the artwork on display was mostly figurative art with a decidedly nationalist overtone. The maroon color of Qatar seems to be the common thread among them. Most interesting among them is that nearly all the artists there were South Asian or European. Appropriately, that seems like a true reflection of the Qatari culture today.

Even though our time in Doha was short, we have come to appreciate this city on its own terms. As travelers, we always strive to discover authenticity; places like Doha could challenge us in adjusting expectations. It is a city of contradiction and complexity, and I believe that our visit was a beautiful taste of the spirit of Qatar. The country is modern yet is keenly aware of its treasured heritage. While acknowledging the ongoing allegation of human rights abuse and forced labor still hanged over the country, we can’t help saying that we did enjoy our 36-hour layover in Doha. Perhaps enjoying a destination while holding a country to a higher standard is okay.

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Doha - Pearl of the Arabian Gulf

Let’s Talk Qatar

Museum of Islamic Arts

Souq Waqif

Falcon & Livestock Souq

Spring Festival 2019-2020

Newport Off-Season

Design Shopping Guide - Helsinki