An Irish American in Cobh

Our trip to Ireland was somewhat of a spiritual homecoming for Brian. He has 50% Irish ancestry and can trace his roots back six generations. Unlike most Irish Americans, he hesitated to celebrate his Irish heritage at home and in Ireland. This was particularly the case after his semester at the University College Cork. It did not take him long to realize he may have Irish blood, but he is all American. Irish American traditions such as Saint Patrick’s Day and corned beef dinner are pretty foreign in Ireland. According to him, the locals also seemed bemused or annoyed with Americans showing up thinking they were actually Irish.

Cobh was my personal favorite stop in our recent visit to Ireland.

Although Brian does not overtly celebrate his Irish identity, this does not mean he is not interested in Irish culture or discovering his family history in Ireland. This was his third visit to Ireland. The first was a family trip with his Irish grandmother, and the second was a five-month stay in Cork. But for whatever reason, he never visited Cobh, just thirty minutes away from the center of Cork. Not only is Cobh a charming Victorian town, but it is also the ground zero for Irish emigration. Cobh ended up being our favorite stop in Ireland and quite an emotional visit for Brian.

Queenstown

Heeding the advice in the guidebook, I booked a guided walk with The Titanic Trail to get the most out of our visit to Cobh. As it turned out, nobody else signed up for the tour this morning, so we had a private tour just for the two of us. Our tour guide, Maureen, was terrific, and she began the story of Cobh by pointing at the island in the Cork Harbor. Haulbowline Island is situated at a strategic chokepoint of the deep harbor and guarded the enemy against reaching Cork. The island is home to the world’s oldest yacht club. As the nearby Kinsale Harbour began to silt up, the Irish Navy relocated its base to the island.

The brightly colored architecture of Cobh.

Cobh’s military significance increased after the Napoleonic wars. The town became increasingly important as a commercial and military center of southeastern Ireland. Much of Cobh’s streetscape and street were laid out around this period. Noted English architect Decimus Burton welded considerable influences on the layouts and appearance of today’s Cobh. The town’s genteel ambiance reminded me of great British seaside towns like Brighton and Tenby. Indeed, Cobh became a famous resort town where people came for therapeutic sea breeze until the arrival of modern tourism.

In 1849, Queen Victoria made her maiden voyage to Ireland. Her 11-day visit came toward the end of the Great Famine and marked the first by a British monarch since the Middle Ages. At that time, the English were not particularly popular with the Irish. There was considerable concern in the court over the queen’s safety or whether she would be embarrassed on Irish soil. It was with great surprise and relief to many that she arrived in Cobh to an enthusiastic crowd of both locals and aristocracy. After departing the royal yacht at Cobh, she “bestowed” Queenstown to Cobh. It was not until the Irish independence in 1922 that the town reverted to its historical name, Cobh.

Along with Kinsale, Cobh is one of the major tourist destinations in Southeastern Ireland. The pint-size town is now one of the country’s top cruise ports. Cruise became a major driving force for the local economy. This is the country’s only dedicated cruise terminal, and the locals frequently check the ship's arrival schedule. A massive Carnival Cruise was in port during our visit, and the town was bustling with day visitors. While most visitors take a day excursion to Kinsale and Cork, I suspect most would spend a few hours in Cobh before boarding the ship.

Center of Irish Emigration

The cruise dock is located right by the historical Cobh railway station. This handsome little Victorian station was integral to the story of Cobh. It was only a twenty-five-minute ride from Cork’s Kent Station and played a significant part in Cobh’s role in Irish emigration. Since the start of the Irish Potato Famine between 1845 and 1852, over a million Irish died. As a result, millions emigrated abroad, and Ireland's population never recovered, even today. In perspective, there are still a million fewer people in Ireland than in 1850.

Overall, more than nine million native-born Irish emigrated abroad. Roughly 36 million Americans, approximately ten percent of the United States’s population, claimed some Irish ancestry. Historically, New England and New York were the leading destinations for Irish emigration. Brian’s family hailed from western Massachusetts and grew up in a big Irish American family. All of his Irish ancestors emigrated in the first two decades of the twentieth century, and as far as we could tell, all eight grandparents of his set off on their journey to America from Cobh. It was al most certain that they arrived to Cobh through this exact station.

The Victorian-era station building also houses the Cobh Heritage Centre. This little museum houses an excellent permanent exhibition on the history of Cobh, with a particular focus on Irish emigration. Unfortunately, we got there too late in the day to be able to visit. This is perhaps the best one-stop overview of the city. I had the feeling that this place was purpose-built for cruise passengers. Within the station are a few cafes and a one-stop shop for souvenirs like Waterford crystals and Saint Kieran's Celtic Cross. My favorite memory, however, was this lady decked out in red and white color for Cork. As it happened, our visit coincided with the semi-final of the GAA All-Ireland Senior Hurling Championship, pitting Cork against Limerick.

Outside the train station was the Annie Moore Monument, one of Cobh’s most famous landmarks. Annie Moore was an Irish emigrant to the United States and widely known as the first person to pass through New York’s Ellis Island immigration facility in 1892. She was only seventeen when she arrived in New York with her two younger brothers. To celebrate the opening of the new facility, the United States government presented her with a $10 gold coin. Even though she was celebrated in the press as a symbol of immigration, she lived, by all means, a relatively anonymous life in New York. The same artist created another statue of Annie Moore on Ellis Island. Funny enough, I have never been to Ellis Island despite living just a mile away for the last decade. I suppose Annie Moore is sufficient reason for me to visit.

Annie Moore Monument outside of Cobh Heritage Centre.

Queenstown’s reputation as a port of emigration extended beyond North America. The lesser-known destination for emigration was Australia. The emigration started in 1786. After the War of American Indepdnence, the British empire began to shift its penal colonies to Australia. Among those convicts were those convicted in the 1798 Irish rebellion agianst London. By the late-19th century, the Irish-Australian historical interpretation of convicts often saw them as people more sinned against than sinning, wrenched from their homeland by the agents in Ireland of a brutal and alien legal system. Such a case can be made for some of them, particularly those sent out for political crimes or crimes of protest against harsh rural conditions, but most were simply petty criminals.

The John F. Kennedy Park in central Cobh.

However, many more Irish voluntarily emigrated to Australia because of the potato famine. Thousands of orphans from Irish workhouses were transported to Australian colonies to work as domestic servants. For about a hundred years, the Catholic Church facilitated the transfer of Irish orphans to Australia. By the late 19th century, Irish Australians constituted nearly a third of the country’s population. It is no surprise that they naturally contributed a great deal to the development of modern Australia. Notable Irish Australians today include the Hamworth brothers, Rupert Murdoch, and current prime minister Anthony Albanese.

Despite being a significant passenger port, Cobh had very few passenger docks during the golden age of Irish emigration. The main historical jetty was located near the former office of the White Star Line, the infamous operator of the RMS Titanic. We were both astonished by how the rickety jetty survived the attrition of time. Maureen told us that the locals were surprised there had been no effort to conserve this structure. Considering its historical and sentimental values, which are significant to the locals and the Irish diaspora,

To escape the rain, we popped in for a drink at Titanic Bar & Grill: Home on the ground floor of the White Star Line office. Brian couldn’t help but get emotional, knowing that four of his great-grandparents on his father’s side had passed through this exact spot over a hundred years ago. To the best of our knowledge, none of them ever returned to Ireland. Among them, we knew the most about the life of great-grandmother Catherine (Doolan) O'Connor. She left Cobh at the age of twenty-one on RMS Saxonia in 1908. Naturally, we had to raise our glass and toast her. It took her more than eight days to get to Boston. I bet she would be amazed that we could get to Ireland from New York in less than six hours nowadays.

One of the most awe-inspiring landmarks of Cobh’s immigration story is Saint Colman's Cathedral. Perched along the bluff, the cathedral dominates the skyline, with its single Gothic spire soaring above Cobh like a beacon. The church is undoubtedly oversized for a small town. Beginning in 1868, the church took about eight decades to complete and was repeatedly enlarged to suit the increasingly grand vision of the local bishop. The parish held a design competition and ultimately selected a plan by Edward Welby Pugin, a noted famous architect known for architectural eclecticism. Deeply influenced by French architect and theorist Eugène Viollet-le-Duc, Pugin is known for his neo-Gothic churches, and his attention to detail is stunning.

When completed, it was supposedly the most expensive building ever built in Ireland. The church boasts the largest carillons in the British Isles, including the largest bell in Ireland. Maureen told us it was customary for Irish emigrants to attend the noon mass before boarding the ship overseas. Knowing that Brian’s great-grandparents likely worshipped at this spot was heartwarming. I bet they never suspected their great-grandson would come retracing their journey.

The Sinking of Titanic

Aside from the heritage of Irish immigration, Cobh’s biggest draw was its association with the RMS Titanic. Because Cobh was Ireland’s main passenger port, most transatlantic passenger ships would stop there before the crossing. In the case of the Titanic, it departed from Southampton, England, stopping at Cherbourg in France before arriving at Queenstown. Because of its size and the few passengers embarking there, the Titanic anchored in the bay and had tenders ferrying passengers onboard. The Titanic was only “in port” for a few hours. And unlike in Southampton, there was no fanfare on land.

Overall, 123 passengers boarded the Titanic from there. 113 were in third, seven were in second, and only three were in first. Among them, only 44 of these passengers survived the sinking four days later. What was lesser known as those who disembarked at Queenstown and, therefore, escaped the disaster. One such lucky individual was Cobh’s native, 23-year-old John Coffey. He worked for White Star Line and supposedly deserted the Titanic after the short crossing of the Irish Sea to spend some time in his hometown. However, according to some legends, many believe he abandoned the ship because he foresaw the impending disaster. However, his omen of Titanic’s sinking was supposedly due to a fire on board rather than hitting an iceberg.

This was where Francis Browne stayed after disembarking the *Titanic*.

However, Francis Browne, a Jesuit priest, was the most notable individual who escaped the disaster. His uncle gave him his Titanic ticket from Southampton to Queenstown as a gift. During this short journey, he befriended a wealthy American couple who offered him free tickets onward to keep him company. When Browne inquired about this opportunity with his superior via telegram, he was told by the bishop to “get off the ship!” An avid photographer, he had his camera with him and took dozens of photos on board during his short voyages. Among those photographed are Captain Edward Smith, ship engineer William Parr, writer Jacque Futrelle, and many other passengers.

His photography inadvertently became the only surviving pictures taken aboard Titanitc’s maiden voyage. These pictures were valuable for their novelty and gave us a glimpse of life on board for Titanic’s third-class passengers. After the sinking, he sold the photos to the magazine and became a minor celebrity. As such, Kodak Eastman offered him free camera films for life and invited him to contribute to the company’s magazine. Our guide, Maurren, pointed to a big white building across as we stood at the cathedral's entrance. This was the building where Browne stayed during his brief stay in Queenstown.

Since Titanic never technically “docked” in Cobh, relatively few traces are left today. A small and somewhat anonymous memorial now stands at the harbor front at the center of town. Although commonly known as the Titanic Memorial, it is specifically dedicated to the Irish emigrants who perished in the disaster. Many Irish survivors kept an anonymous profile and did not speak about their experiences later in life. The oldest Irish survivor, Ellen Shine, actually did not let her own children know that she survived the sinking. Her daughter only found that out when doing a school research project.

For most visitors, Cobh’s biggest attraction is the Titanic Experience Cobh. Housed inside the former office building of the White Star Line, this little museum features a concise overview of Titanic’s technological advances and the sinking. For €12 per head, one could get an hour-long guided tour, including visiting the first- and second-class cabin replica. I am very tempted to see how this museum compares to the modern behemoth like Titanic Belfast. The Titanic craze seems a little out of control, and to me, it was not nearly as interesting as Cobh’s emigration story.

The Sinking of Lusitania

The Titanic may draw the crowds, but the sinking of RMS Lusitania in 1915 was more significant in all respects. Lustinaina was a British-flagged passenger vessel that shuttled passengers between New York and Liverpool via Queenstown. The German navy then imposed a maritime blockade around the British Isles, enforced by Germany’s fleet of U-boat submarines. In the early days of the blockade, the Germans would warn the targeted merchant ships ahead of an attack. They would allow enough time for passengers and crew to disembark in lifeboats. However, some British merchant fleets started incorporating military capabilities, making such warnings high-risk for the U-boats. It eventually became morphed into unrestricted submarine warfare. All merchant ships, enemy or neutral, will be sunk without warning.

At the time, the Lusitania was Cunard's flagship passenger liner. Before the sale, the German embassy published a warning in a New York newspaper that there was an active embargo on civilian ships to Great Britain; all passengers would be traveling across the Atlantic at their own risk. Since no passenger liner had been targeted before and there was no viable alternative, most passengers proceeded with the voyage. Since it is a state-of-the-art ship, it should theoretically be able to outrun the U-boat. On the evening before the disaster, the liner received a warning of U-boat activity along the southeastern coast of Ireland.

With a view of the Irish coast, Lusitania was struck by a torpedo on 7 May 1915 near the Old Head of Kinsale. Shortly after the initial impact, a second explosion erupted. It took only eighteen minutes to sink, compared to 160 minutes for the Titanic. In the chaos of the moment, only six lifeboats were launched. Because of the ongoing threats from U-boats, assistance from bigger vessels arrived very late. Instead, the local fishermen from Cobh and Kinsale mobilized to assist the ailing Lusitania. In the end, over sixty percent of 1195 passengers and crew perished, including 123 Americans. Many of the dead recovered were brought ashore to Cobh, with 170 victims buried in a nearby cemetery.

The sinking had swift and profound international repercussions. Germany justified the Lusitania as a legitimate target due to the suspected arms shipment on board. Many cited the second large explosion as evidence of such a claim; the security restriction around the wreck site only raised questions among many doubters. Despite that, the disaster was primed for propaganda in Britain and the United States. Rioters destroyed many German businesses in New York City. Anti-German sentiment began solidifying in the United States, slowly leading to the American declaration of war against Germany two years later.

Appropriately, a massive memorial stands in the center of Cobh. It dwarfs the nearby Titanic Memorial. The New York Memorial Committee, headed by William Henry Vanderbilt III, whose father perished on the Lusitania. The memorial was based on the design by Irish artist Jerome Connor, and it beautifully captured the anguish experienced by the victims. An angel of peace was installed at the top after the artist’s passing. Ironically, unsuspecting tourists often mistake it as a Titanic memorial.

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Queenstown

Center of Irish Emigration

The Sinking of Titanic

The Sinking of Lusitania

Kinsale - The Irish Riveria

Montreal Itinerary - Summer 2024