Montreal Itinerary - Summer 2024
With a four-day weekend available, we were looking around the region for a quick getaway. Washington, D.C., has been our go-to destination for a long weekend for years. But considering the risk of a potential heatwave, we began to look north. It suddenly dawned on me that the drive to Montreal from New York would only be an hour longer than to Washington. Oddly enough, Brian and I had never been to Montreal or Canada together since we met. Perhaps due to the perceived cultural similarity and physical proximity, we never thought of Montreal as a vacation destination until now.
Montreal Museum of Archaeology and History.
The Old Montreal.
I was in Montreal once in 2011, and I can’t say Montreal lived up to my initial expectations. Because it was Quebec, I wrongfully assumed Montreal would be the Paris of America; you can imagine my disappointment. While the historical Old Montreal was charming, the city looked like a typical American city. When it came to French charms, it certainly couldn’t hold the candle to Quebec City. Fast forward to 2024, and I am ready to reassess my opinion of Montreal. Ultimately, I was so glad I discovered why Montreal is consistently ranked as one of the most liveable cities.
Day 1 - New York - Plattsburgh - Montreal
It was a six-hour drive between New York City and Montreal, so we had an early start in the morning. As a prelude to a weekend of bagel mania, we stopped at Pearl's Bagels & Bakery in Albany for a breakfast sandwich. The drive may be long, but it was increasingly scenic as we approached Plattsburgh. We knew we were close to the border as Canadian flags and bilingual road signs began to emerge. For lunch, we dropped by Happy Pike Ice Cream & Snack Bar on the shore of Lake Champlain. According to the owner, most of their patrons were French Canadian boaters. I could not resist trying their Montreal-style smoked meat sandwich.
Montreal-style smoked meat Reuben sandwich.
A beautiful day on Lake Champlain
It was only a forty-minute drive to central Montreal from the Canadian border. At first glance, Montreal looks just like a typical mid-sized American city. Montreal’s central business district looks a lot like Newark. We would be staying at the Hôtel Monville, a stylish boutique hotel with beautiful views of the downtown. Like most visitors, our first stop was Old Montreal (Vieux-Montréal). Spared of redevelopment, Montreal’s historic center has been beautifully restored. It is one of the oldest urban centers in North America and a tribute to Quebec’s complex history.
Bonsecours Market in Old Montreal.
However, the most exciting development in recent decades has been the revitalization of the historic waterfront. With the port shifted further down the river, the Old Port of Montreal is now a vibrant zone for tourism and recreation. The most exciting addition to the waterfront is the Port of Montreal Tower. The 215-foot-tall glass tower may not be tall, but it is quite an architectural and engineering triumph. Although we did not care to pay $15 to go to the top, I appreciate its reference to the historical crane towers nearby. From this spot, we also had a fantastic view of Habitat 67, an icon of Metabolism architecture. For thrill-seekers, a zipline at the northern end of the Old Port was very tempting.
The Old Port of Montreal.
Port of Montreal Tower.
We had a dinner reservation at Restaurant L'Orignal, which is listed as one of the more famous Québécois restaurants in Old Montreal. Although the meal was good, I could not figure out what made this place “Québécois” more than others. There was neither poutine nor maple syrup on any of the dishes. I later learned that many locals would avoid any place that actively touts itself as Québécois.
Day 2 - Montreal
Much to my chagrin, the weather forecast was terrible today, scrambling my well-crafted sightseeing plan. It seemed like this visit to Montreal would not be all that different from my previous one. After grabbing a quick pastry breakfast at Boulangerie Ange, it was just a short walk to Notre-Dame Basilica of Montreal, the grandest edifice of French culture in Old Montreal. Even with the steep $16 admission fee, the basilica burst at the seams with hundreds of tourists. Given the inclement weather, everyone had the same idea to visit the Montreal Museum of Archaeology and History. Known as Pointe-à-Callière Museum, this handsome postmodern museum stands atop one of Montreal’s most historical sites. Visitors could explore not only the foundation of the former mansion of the governor of New France but also Fort Ville-Marie, Montreal’s first fortress.
Notre-Dame Basilica of Montreal is unapologetically French inside.
The ruins of Fort Ville-Marie at the basement of Montreal Museum of Archaeology and History.
Montreal Museum of Archaeology and History.
After a dumpling feast at Chinatown’s Qing Hua Dumpling, we took the metro to Little Italy, home of the famous Jean-Talon Market. This is one of North America's largest open-air public markets and a feast for the senses. Despite its utilitarian architecture, Jean-Talon Market embodies the French way of living. Not only was the produce so beautiful, but it was also evident how passionate Quebecers were about food and wine. Unlike Seattle’s Pike Place Market, it is still untouched by tourism. I secretly wished we had an Airbnb to enjoy a home-cooked dinner.
Fresh produce at Jean-Talon Market.
By late afternoon, we were mentally exhausted from all the rain. We returned to the hotel room to watch the rainstorm pass by. We did not emerge until our 8:30 p.m. dinner reservation at the Village’s Restaurant O-Thym. This little BYOB restaurant has a great menu of vegetarian dishes, and it was better than any meal I had in New York City. Afterward, I took a half-hour stroll through Old Montreal to walk off the excess calories. Like all historic centers, Old Montreal is even more beautiful at night.
Day 3 - Montreal
Finally, we had glorious weather this morning, and I took a brisk photography tour of Old Montreal before meeting Brian for breakfast. We took the metro to Mile End, a favorite neighborhood for visitors. Once an immigrant neighborhood, it has been thoroughly gentrified and is a foodie destination. Our first stop was Fairmount Bagel, one of the three famous bagel shops in the city. Montreal bagels are one of the city’s culinary treasures and could stand toe with New York’s bagels. A coffee at the nearby Café Éclair is a testament to the area’s status as hipsters. A walk through the neighborhood made us realize Montreal is a city of neighborhoods.
Saint Michael's and Saint Anthony's Church in Mile End.
Fairmont Bagel in Mile End.
Our next stop is Olympic Park, home to the 1976 Summer Olympics. The park's centerpiece is its massive Olympic Stadium, the world’s most giant inclined tower, making it an instant icon. The 1976 games are legendary in Olympic history as a financial disaster for the host city. The government took over three decades to repay its debt from the games, and Montreal is frequently cited as a warning to all future host cities. Despite its financial difficulty, many facilities are still in use or have been adapted for new use. One such example would be the Montréal Biodôme in the former Olympic velodrome.
Montreal Olympic Stadium.
The bonsai collection at Montreal Botanical Garden.
The aquatic garden at Montreal Botanical Garden.
Adjacent to the Olympics Park is the Montreal Botanical Garden. The 190-acre garden consists of numerous thematic gardens, including the landscapes of the First Nations of Canada. Lesser visits are gardens of various climatic conditions, ranging from spring gardens to the alpine landscape. This garden is surprisingly educational and enjoyable. I planned to visit during the annual Gardens of Light event but missed the reservation by just a few minutes. By mid-afternoon, a rainstorm gathered on the horizon. Before long, we had to take shelter inside the garden's little cafeteria. The timing was perfect for us, and I enjoyed their all-vegetarian menu.
The rainstorm cleared up in a few hours. After a quick nap at the hotel, we slowly made our way to Mount Royal lookout points, Montreal’s most iconic viewpoint. The scenic Mount Royal Park is a work of famed American landscape architect Frederick Law Olmsted, and it is the ideal urban scape for Montrealers. It was a strenuous 15-minute hike from the McGill University campus, but the views at the end were well worth it. This spot was a great place to appreciate the city’s skyline and for people-watching. We would've stayed for the nighttime views if it were not for the frigid temperature.
Spectacular skyline view of Mount Royal lookout points.
At nightfall, we took a walk through Montreal’s central business district. It was funny that we had missed the city’s busiest commercial zone until now. Despite its French identity, Montreal is still a North American city. We had a late reservation for dinner at Foiegwa, a neighborhood brasserie famous for its late-night pre-fix menu. At just $25 per person, the three-course meal was one of the best deals in Montreal. The meal may be affordable, but the quality was top-notch.
Day 4 - Montreal - NEw York
Once again, I woke up early this morning to explore the city. My first stop was Dorchester Square, Montreal’s largest urban plaza. The square is dominated by the nearby Mary, Queen of the World Cathedral, Montreal’s catholic cathedral. Any architecture enthusiasts would notice this church is a miniature replica of the Saint Peter’s Basilica in the Vatican. Unlike the Notre Dame Basilica of Montreal, this grand cathedral is free to visit. Unfortunately, downtown Montreal was mostly abandoned this morning because of the Labor Day holiday. The whole area looks like a film set for a dystopic movie.
Bonsecours Market in Old Montreal.
The main event of the day is a walking tour of Old Montreal. The “free” tour by Free Montreal Tours has an average Google rating of 4.9/5.0. Our guide, Peter, was superb and beautifully framed Montreal’s history as balancing acts among different global powers. Just about every monument within Old Montreal is a testament to the evolution of this city and Quebec overall. My favorite is a pair of newly installed sculptures by Quebec artist Marc André Jacques Fortier on Place d'Armes. The English Pug and the French Poodle are satirical critics of the social divisions between francophone and anglophone communities.
Our tour ended at the World Trade Centre Montreal. This modern office complex is part of Montreal’s Underground City (RÉSO), an underground network of walkways connecting 63 buildings in central Montreal. About half a million Montrealers use the Underground City during the winter months. RÉSO looks like any other North American mall, but for whatever reason, it has become a tourist attraction in its own right. This seems like a fitting endpoint for the ending tour and our visit to Montreal.
The English Pug and the French Poodle on Place d'Armes.
A piece of Berlin Wall at the World Trade Centre Montreal.
Our final stop in Montreal is the pilgrimage to Snowdon Deli, a venerated delicatessen in one of Montreal’s Jewish districts. This is one of the most talked-about spots to try out Montreal’s famous smoked meat sandwiches. The no-frill establishment has plenty of Jewish/Eastern European fare, such as matzo ball soup and kreplach. For whatever reason, we waited until our last meal to try Canada’s national dish: poutine. Since we were in a famous delicatessen, we had to top it off with their smoked meat. This meal was certainly a massive sodium bomb!
