Rock of Cashel - Brith of Christian Ireland

Ireland has no shortage of medieval monuments or ruins, but very few landmarks are as spiritually significant as the Rock of Cashel in County Tipperary. It is a hallowed ground of Irish history, and it isn't easy to think of an American equivalence. I knew the Rock of Cashel would be a worthwhile landmark once I discovered that both Rick Steve’s seven- and fourteen-day Best of Ireland include a visit here. Located just an hour southeast of Shannon Airport, Cashel was our first stop on our 10-day trip through Southern Ireland, and it was sure a perfect introduction to the country.

The cathedral ruins of the Rock of Cashel.

The drive to Cashel was incredibly scenic. Despite Cashel’s importance, the surrounding landscape is remarkably open and well-preserved. The word “Cashel” means “ringed fort” in Irish, and it seems to suggest that there used to be an ancient fortification predating the church we see today. Despite being one of the most visited spots in Ireland, the town of Cashel today, with a population of 4,000, retains the quiet ambiance of a rural village. A handy oversized parking lot is tucked away in the back. From the city, the Rock of Cashel towers over the town like a beacon.

We came upon this "Where is the Leprechaun?" book in Kilkenny. One of the spread features the Rock of Cashel.

Thanks to my prior research, we have learned about the OPW Heritage Card. For only €40, everyone could pick up a card, which offers unlimited access to all the heritage sites operated by the Office of Public Works (OPW). This public agency is the equivalent of the United States’ General Service Administration (GSA). In addition to managing government offices and parks, it is also tasked with maintaining about 780 historical sites. They include some of the most historical landmarks, such as Skellig Michael and Newgrange. Since the card would be valid for one year, it was a great excuse for returning to Ireland.

Rock of Cashel’s spiritual importance can be traced to Ireland’s most famous saint: Patrick. According to historical traditions, Patrick traveled here in the fifth century to baptize King Óengus mac Nad Froích of the Irish Kingdom of Munster to Christianity. Aenghus was the first Irish king to convert and was particularly devout. Allegedly, Patrick baptized him with the blood by stabbing crosier through the king’s foot. Even though the injury was an accident, Óengus did not move or react as he assumed it was part of the baptism ceremony and a reference to Chris’ crucifixion. For this reason, the Rock of Cashel is nicknamed the “Rock of Saint Patrick” and remains a pivotal monument to Irish Catholicism.

The appearance of the Rock of Cashel vary greatly depending on the angle and direction.

Local legends also tell of an alleged confrontation between Patrick and Satan here. Supposedly, the satan was lurking in a cave, and Patrick was able to defeat him. Out of anger, satan took a bite out of a mountain twenty miles north of Cashel. With a chuck missing, this mountain is known as The Devil’s Bit to this day. The legend has it that the bit satan bit off is the mount where the Rock of Cashel stands today. This myth does not make sense in the archaeological and geological timeline, but it is an amusing narrative nonetheless.

Few remnants survived from the time of Saint Patrick and King Óengus. Cashel was the seat of power for the Kingdom of Munster until King Muircheartach Ua Briain donated the fortress to the church in 1101. Cashel became a major ecclesiastical center of Ireland for the next few centuries. Most buildings and artifacts on site today date to the 12th and 13th centuries. They represent one of the country's richest collections of medieval monuments and a treasure trove for archaeologists.

Sadly, most structures we see today are in ruin. Cashel was the site of a significant battle in the Irish Confederate Wars between English protestants and Irish Catholics. Known as the Massacre of Cashel, the 1647 siege ended with hand-to-hand combat between the forces inside the cathedral. Sheltered within the castle included Catholic clergy and hundreds of civilians of Cashel. After the Catholic surrender, a ruthless massacre ensued, killing all but a few hostages and a few women. Among those killed include Catholic priest Teabóid Gálldubh, who was a noted pioneer of Irish language orthography. The protestant forces looted and desecrated the cathedral. The entire episode was forever seared into the national consciousness.

After the war, the cathedral came under the control of the Anglican Church of Ireland and was abandoned shortly after. When Arthur Price became the Archbishop of Cashel in 1744, he overruled the plan to restore the old cathedral in favor of building a brand new cathedral. However, he went a step further by ordering the roof of the old cathedral to be removed and the interior stripped of any remaining valuables. Without its roof, the entire building quickly fell into ruin. I suspect he simply wanted to be known as a builder, so it was with great irony that his decision has been widely criticized ever since.

The glorious view of the cathedral and its Irish round tower.

The buildings are perched on a limestone bluff and have a commanding view of the Plain of Tipperary. Towering over the entire complex is Cashel’s Round Tower; it dates to the early 12th century. It may be the oldest structure on the rock and remains in remarkable condition. These uniquely Irish structures are the stand-alone bell towers and a place of refuge during the siege. One prominent feature of these towers was their elevated entrances, which came without access steps. Even though Cashel’s round tower still retains its conical roof, the tower is closed to visitors. Anyone interested in climbing one should head to Saint Canice's Round Tower in nearby Kilkenny.

Typical of most historic sites managed by OPW, the staff at the Rock Cashel offers excellent guided tours, which are included in the admission. The tour provides many insights and fun anecdotes you would never find in brochures or guidebooks. The church may be in ruins, but plenty of funerary monuments remain. The most fascinating among them is the Miler Magrath. Originally a Catholic Franciscan priest, Magrath was educated in Rome and appointed a bishop by the Pope. When unsatisfied with his position's wealth and powers, he went to the English crown and offered to convert to the Anglican faith. In 1571, he was finally appointed as the protestant Archbishop of Cashel.

Through sheer will and skillful maneuvering, Magrath retained his position as Catholic bishop of Down and Connor while serving publicly as Anglican archbishop. He served in both churches for nearly a decade without being cast out or excommunicated and enjoyed the immense privilege of dual appointment. To this day, he is still Ireland’s most notorious example of religious pluralism. After Rome eventually excommunicated him, he still made repeated overtures to Rome to convert back to Catholicism while serving as protestant archbishop. Even though he was widely disliked for his disloyalty and corruption, his harshest critics admired his political skills and tenacity.

While the cathedral was in ruin, the adjoining Cormac’s Chapel has been meticulously restored. Consecrated in 1134, the chapel took its name from King Cormac Mac Cárthaig. The distinct Hiberno-Romanesque style church looks formidable and is said to be modeled after the Church of Saint James in Regensburg, Germany. The chapel has two massive stone towers, and its original stone roof is still in remarkable condition. It is one of the best-preserved medieval structures in Ireland. The geometric decoration around the tympanum is stunning, and it reminded me of Dingle Peninsula’s Kilmalkedar Church.

The most coveted artifact at the Rock of Cashel is the surviving frescos inside the Cormac’s Chapel. Although most frescos were lost, the remaining fragments are lauded for their intricate technique and design complexity. These fragments would have been almost lost if it had not been for nearly a decade of conservation work by the OPW. Access to the chapel is strictly controlled and requires an additional ticket to control the humidity level. We did not get the ticket for our visit, but I must say they don’t look all that impressive based on the online photo; it is no Sistine Chapel.

Outside the cathedral’s main entrance is an unusual stone pillar called the Saint Patrick’s Cross. This Irish high cross has an unorthodox configuration with a supporting arm extended from the base. The cross is believed to have been commissioned by King Cormac and is decorated with images of Christ and bishops. The original cross is now housed in Vicar’s Choral building nearby to protect it from the elements. Unfortunately, the room where the cross was kept was off-limit during our visit. According to the legend, the cross is supposed to have unique healing properties to cure illnesses. We saw plenty of tourists hugging the replica cross and couldn’t help but partake in the ritual.

I admit the most beautiful part of the Rock of Cashel is the cemetery. The cemetery is situated on the gently sloping ground around the cathedral and has panoramic views of the surrounding plain. It is one of the oldest active cemeteries in Ireland, dating to the time of Cashel's founding. Among those buried here are the royalties of the Kingdom of Munster. Ironically, the limestone geology here is not particularly suitable for burial. Due to the status of many buried here, grave robbing was also quite common during the centuries.

One of the most frequently asked questions was who was eligible for burial here. According to the rule, only local parishioners whose names were registered here in the 1930s are eligible to claim a spot. According to the guide, only six names are still on that register. There is no guarantee that all of them would like to be buried next to the king and queen. Considering how touristy Rock and Cashel is, I wouldn’t say this is the most tranquil place to spend eternity. On the other hand, you are guaranteed that the cemetery will be maintained in perpetuity.

The most iconic monument in the cemetery is the Scully family’s mausoleum. Constructed in a neo-Egyptian style in 1867, it is topped with an enormous Irish cross. Each side of the cross is decorated with intricate sculptural relief of biblical scenes. The cross was over twenty feet tall and was once the most recognizable landmark on the rock. In 1976, the upper part of the cross collapsed after a lightning strike. The fragments of the crossing were left undisturbed at the base of the mausoleum. A concerted effort to restore the cross to its former glory was underway, but the project still seems a long way off.

Besides Cormac’s Chapel, the only fully restored building is the Hall of the Vicar’s Choral. As the name implies, this was the former residential quarter of the cathedral choir in the 15th century. The two-level barrack-like building is now restored as a museum and reception center. The sleeping area of the eight-person choir has been recreated, and the vaulted wooden ceiling is stunning. It may seem like a great place to live until we were reminded that as many as three dozen people regularly inhabited this space during the height of Cashel. The menacing angles decorating the hall were certainly memorable.

However, the item that caught my attention the most was an information plaque on Queen Elizabeth II’s state visit in 2011. It was the first visit by a reigning British monarch since King George’s visit precisely a century earlier. The entire Irish island was still part of the United Kingdom in 1911. Considering Britain’s colonial history in Ireland, the visit by the queen was a momentous event and highly symbolic of the new era of the Ireland-UK relationship. It was not a surprise that the Queen would make a stop at the Rock of Cashel. Dressed in emerald green, the Queen was praised in the press for her sensitivity to the complex history.

We spent about ninety minutes at the Rock of Cashel, and I suspect that was much longer than the average. Given the elevated position relative to the surrounding landscape, this is an excellent place to picnic. In retrospect, I would have spent more time exploring the town of Cashel. Based on our drive-through, Cashel has plenty of other landmarks worth exploring in a few hours. The most overlooked sight may be Hore Abbey, a ruined Cistercian monastery by the foot of the Rock of Cashel. The abbey is most famously associated with David Mac Cerbaill, the 13th-century Archbishop of Cashel who attempted to introduce the British common laws into Ireland.

Kells Priory

Known as the “Island of Saints and Scholars,” Ireland has hundreds of medieval churches and monasteries across the countryside. Choosing a few on a short trip was difficult. Thankfully, our trusty Rick Steve’s guidebook recommended two sites in the region. Two of them are communicated located on the road between Kilkenny and Cork. The first is Kells Priory in the village of Kells of County Kilkenny. This former Augustine priory was once Ireland’s most significant medieval monastic settlement. Unfortunately, this place is unrelated to the famous Books of Kells, named after the Abbey of Kells in County Meath. Otherwise, I imagine that the place would be a lot more busier.

Kells Abbey may have a shout-out from Rick Steves, but it was far from a major tourist stop, so much so that we had trouble locating the official entrance. Even though OPW managed Kells Priory, they generally don’t have permanent staff on-site. From the tiny parking lot, it was a short walk through the field filled while avoiding heaps of sheep dung. With only a few other visitors on the premises, we couldn’t help but feel like we were trespassing, especially in the stormy weather. The guidebook describes it as a “wonderful lonely gem,” it couldn’t be more apt.

Founded in 1193 by Norman soldiers, this enormous complex encompassed three acres and was protected by a high wall. What made Kells Priory particularly iconic is its series of tower houses incorporated into the defensive walls. Although they were not tall or massive, they must have looked pretty intimidating back in the day. The locals even nicknamed the priority the Seven Castles of Kells. The priory was under siege and burned three times in a short period. In 1540, the entire complex was disbanded by order of the English crown, along with the rest of Ireland’s religious chapter houses.

The priory is divided into two sections: one is used as a grazing ground, and the other contains a fine collection of religious buildings. Visitors may explore the grounds without restriction, but very little information is available on-site to put the architecture into historical context. This was allegedly the burial place for King Niall Caillem, but we did not see any signage for a grave site. Based on the number of excavations we observed on site, I wouldn’t be surprised if this place would soon realize its tourism potential.

Jerpoint Abbey

Jerpoint Abbey, a ruined Cistercian settlement founded in the 12th century, is not too far from Kills Priory. Jerpoint’s history very much resembles Kells Priory's. It had a defined perimeter enclosure and was historically ‘self-sufficient’ within its walls. The Cistercian arrived in Ireland from France in the 12th century and adopted a strict way of life set up by the Benedictine order. They committed to a life of labor, stoicism, and silence and engaged with various advanced crafts like metallurgy and civil engineering. In addition to monks, many laypersons were also employed within the abbey.

The abbey largely follows the Plan of Saint Gall, a well-established architectural layout set up by the Benedictine Order, but with a few deviations. Having visited the Royal Abbey of Fontevraud in France last year, I was well-acquainted with the standard layout. Like Kells Priory, it flourished until its dissolution in 1540 and later came under the ownership of Kilkenny’s Butler family. Much of the complex was left abandoned for centuries until it came under the care of the Office of Public Works in 1880. According to the guidebook, the main reason for visiting Jepoint Abbey would be their regularly scheduled guided tour. Our guide, Margaret, was terrific and brought the abbey ruins to life.

But honestly, the tour would be more enjoyable for anyone with a basic understanding of Christianity or medieval history. A significant highlight is the abbey’s extensive collection of medieval carvings, which were relatively unusual in a Cistercian abbey. The most intricate carvings are figures of apostles on the bishop’s sarcophaguses. Since I have a decent knowledge of medieval iconography, I truly enjoyed the tour. Ironically, Brian couldn't care less, even with twelve years of Catholic school under his belt.

My favorite carvings are the ones on the pillars of the cloisters. The amusing figures include smiling bishops, knights, monks, and animals. However, the most memorable one has got to be the man with a stomachache. Brian was such a sport for letting me take a picture of him in that pose. I doubt the original stone mason could ever imagine how this little effigy has since become one of the most photographed spot in the whole abbey complex.

▲

Rock of Cashel - Brith of Christian Ireland

Kells Priory

Jerpoint Abbey

Montreal Itinerary - Summer 2024