Kilkenny - The Medieval Ireland — Tuljak! Travel Blog

Our recent trip to Ireland was relatively last minute, and I had difficulty organizing an itinerary. But for whatever reason, I knew I wanted to spend a night at Kilkenny, the medieval capital of Ireland. With charming lanes and historic monuments, this historic city of 27,000 seemed like a perfect introduction to Ireland and a great place to get over jetlag. Kilkenny’s popularity among tourists means plenty of quality accommodations and restaurants. A two-hour drive from Shannon Airport, Kilkenny is a convenient stopover city to Cork or Dublin.

The arcade at Market Cross Shopping Centre.

Straddling the River Nore, Kilkenny is quite dense but has plenty of open space and scenic visa. It has a decidedly relaxed ambiance and is quite intoxicating. Kilkenny may have some of Ireland’s most impressive medieval monuments, but it is far from an outdoor museum frozen in time. Kilkenny felt very lived-in and bustling, with lively pubs, hardware stores, and even a massive Dunnes Store in the city center. The locals might disagree, but am I wrong to think this might be one of the best-managed cities in managing tourism?

Saint Canice's Cathedral

The story of Kilkenny began at the site of the Saint Caniche Cathedral. Kilkenny’s name derives from the church (Cill) and Channigh (Cainneach); all the evidence suggests the town began at this spot as a monastic settlement in the early 6th century. Archaeologists even found Bronze Age and Neolithic artifacts nearby. This was the seat of the Kingdom of Ossory, one of half a dozen medieval kingdoms in Ireland. The early Christian monastery here is attributed to Saint Cainnech of Aghaboe, one of the twelve apostles who Christianized Ireland. Kilkenny was one of the last parts of Ireland to convert. According to legend, Saint Cainnech even launched a military assault against the pagan rulers of this area.

The present church dates to the 13th century during the Anglo-Norman period. Considering medieval Kilkenny’s small population, the imposing cathedral is impressive. However, the most noteworthy feature of the cathedral is its massive Irish round tower. These standalone towers are primarily found in Ireland and are generally associated with a monastery. The tower’s entrance is typically elevated above ground and pointed to the church's western doorway. These towers generate considerable debate among historians about their purpose. Some speculate they are for defense against raiders, while others think they are simply a belfry. Some scholars even proposed that they house private chapels for the aristocracy. However, these speculations don’t explain why they are always detached from the churches.

At 98 feet tall, Kilkenny’s Round Tower is the seventh tallest in Ireland. But what made it unique is that it is one of only two Irish round towers that allow visitors to climb the 121 steps to the top. Although the original conical roof is gone, it gave visitors panoramic views of Kilkenny. Due to its popularity, the tower does require a separate €6 fee. Access is also limited to those over 4.5 feet tall due to the narrow winding staircase. Climbing this tower is so popular that they recommend timed reservations during the high season. In hindsight, we should have given it a try.

The interior visit to the church costs €7.50 per adult, which I think is a little steep but still worth it. The nave is in an English Gothic style, with characteristic pointed arches but still thick walls and stubby compound columns. The English-style hammer-beam roof lightens the nave up and elevates the entire space with handcrafted intricacy. The church also boasts many beautiful stained glass windows, some replicas of the 13th-century originals.

The beauty of Kilkenny’s stained glass was well-known in medieval Europe. In the 13th century, the apostolic nuncio (papal ambassador) asked Bishop Richard de Ledrede whether he would consider donating these windows to the Vatican to be reinstalled at the old Saint Peter’s Basilica. Bishop Ledrede refused and instructed the diplomat to create detailed illustrations of the windows instead. Fast-forward to the Anglo conquest of Ireland in the mid-17th century, the cathedral was ransacked and occupied by the armies of Oliver Cromwell. The soldiers used the cathedral as a horse stable, but the sacrilegious part was taking down some famous stained glass. They were looking to melt down the lead of the strip of lead holding the glass to make weapons. The sketch in the Vatican Archive suddenly became handy in recreating these prized windows.

The real highlight is the excellent audio guide that came with the admission. The Irish had a knack for storytelling, and the country's guided tours or audio guides are always fantastic. They somehow made mundane historical trivia gripping. One interesting artifact is the primitive Saint Kieran’s Chair, built into the walls of the north transept. The base of this relatively nondescript chair was said to be an ancient stone where the first bishop of Aghaboe was enthroned. For 1,500 years, it has been the seat of the enthronement for local bishops. Even though Saint Canice's Cathedral now belongs to the Chruch of Ireland, part of the Anglican Communion, the local Catholic bishops of Kilkenny still came here for the seat for their installation ceremony. That was regarded as a symbolic bridge across the religious divide.

A list of presiding bishops, with one name scratched out.

One of the most fascinating trivia for Americans was Kilkenny’s connection to President Barack Obama. Unbeknownst to most, Obama has Irish ancestry through her mother. Local filmmakers and historians in Kilkenny used century-old maps to trace the president’s ancestry. To their surprise, they locate the tomb of John Kearney inside the cathedral. Kearny was the bishop here two centuries ago, and he was a sixth great grand uncle of Obama. Understandably, the people of Kilkenny were disappointed that the president did not stop here during his famous tour of Ireland in 2011. I can’t help wondering whether Obama was aware of this invitation.

However, for most visitors, the infamous Kilkenny witch trial was the most notable historical event associated with the cathedral. Bishop Ledrede accused and prosecuted local woman Alice Kyteler of witchcraft. Four of her husbands died of mysterious circumstances shortly after marriage, prompting the accusation of witchcraft. Bishop Ledrede spearheaded the trial, which quickly became a significant crusade of morality in 1324. Because Kyteler became a prominent wealthy family, public interest in the prosecution exploded. Because of the family’s wealth and political connections, she mounted a robust defense from Dublin by accusing the bishop of slander.

Alice was fortunate enough to escape to England right before her execution. Left behind was Petronilla de Meath, who became the first woman in Ireland to be convicted of witchcraft and the first to be sentenced to death by fire. This trial marked the first time in Ireland that an individual was sentenced to death by burning for witchcraft. Alice’s subsequent whereabouts remain a mystery today. The legal procedures of the Kilkenny witch trial were elaborate and well-documented. Historians debated over her complicity in the husbands’ death and the role of women in medieval Ireland. Today's Visitors could visit the tombs of Bishop Ledrede and Alice’s father along the nave. One might wonder where the Kyteler senior would side with his daughter.

Medieval Miles

Unsurprisingly, Alice Kyteler's story is a source of endless fascination. Many consider her conviction to have come out of her jealousy of the family’s success and wealth. Remarkably, the Kytlers’ family inn still exists today. Located in Kilkenny’s historic medieval center, the present Kytler’s Inn dates back to 1263 and is considered one of the oldest bars in the country. It now operates a pub and restaurant that is popular with tourists. The current owner purchased the property in 1986 and restored it to its historical splendor. Since then, it calimed received several accolades, including the Dining Pub of the Year Award and the Music Venue of the Year Award.

Out of curiosity, we decided to have lunch at Kyteler’s Inn. The building's dark interiors have a lovely ambiance. Naturally, there are plenty of decorations related to witchcraft. This includes a lifesize statue of Alice dressed in stereotypical witches’ garb and pointy hats. Given its novelty factors, we were unsurprised that their food offering was subpar and probably one of our worst meals on this trip. We were seated in the back dining room decorated with wooden beams and plaster walls. It soon realized most of the architectural features in the room were made of plastic. It was a classic tourist trap and should be taken at face value.

Kyteler's Inn is now located in one of the busiest stretch of Medieval Mile.

Kilkenny’s Medieval Mile is part of the historical center, stretching between Saint Canice's Cathedral and the Anglo-Norman Kilkenny Castle on the other end of town. Historically, Kilkenny is divided into two sections: Garlic Irishtown (centered around the cathedral) and Anglo-Norman English Town (centered around the castle). The two settlements have separate defensive walls and have been segregated by ethnicity and language throughout history. In 1609, King James I of England granted Kilkenny the Royal Charter, making it one of Ireland's oldest “royal cities.” Many of the city’s medieval buildings survived, and Kilkenny is Ireland’s best-preserved medieval town.

The most recognizable landmark along the Medieval Mile is probably Tholsel, the old town hall. The handsome octagonal clock tower perches high and marks the town center. Despite its relatively diminutive size, the building still houses the city’s administration and assembly today. Its first-floor arcade is still a popular meet-up point for the locals. In 1985, a fire broke out at the upper level of Tholsel. Thankfully, a town sergeant happened to be on duty and rescued rescue the 17th-century Royal Charter from the inferno.

Although we did not have the chance to visit on this trip, the newly inaugurated Medieval Mile Museum within the old Saint Mary’s Church is the best place to appreciate Kilkenny's medieval heritage. The state-of-the-art museum exhibits numerous artifacts from Kilkenny’s monastery and medieval past and organizes guided walks around the city. A highlight is the ornate Rothe Chape, once belonging to the Rothe family, a local wealthy merchant family. The Rothe family was among the roughly ten families that once had oligarchic control over Kilkenny.

A block from Tholsel is Rothe House and Garden, the impressive medical merchant's townhouse of the Rothe family. The complex comprises three houses, enclosed courtyards, and a large garden with an orchard. Constructed around 1600, Rothe House was the only intact example of a completely intact burgage plot in Ireland. A burgage is a form of tenement property on the land owned by the aristocracy. It is usually a narrow plot with a small frontage and great depth. Over the centuries, a burgage was often subdivided into more minor sub-plots. The fact the Rothe House were able to stay intact speaks to the wealth and influence of the Rothe family.

The beautifully restored king-post truss roof at Rothe House.

The house was built in the English Renaissance style and remained largely unaltered through the centuries. From 1440 to 1544, members of the Roth family became mayor of Kilkenny on eighteen different occasions. The Roth family was also deeply involved in the short-lived Irish Catholic Confederation during the mid-17th century. The confederacy pledged loyalty to King Charles I, who was sympathetic to the plight of Catholics. The group set up its capital in Kilkenny and used Rothe House as a meeting place. After Cromwell’s invasion. of Ireland, the house was confiscated from the family, and it was not returned after the restoration of King Charles II. The family lost the property again after the defeat of the Irish Jacobites in 1690.

The house has been beautifully restored and holds various family artifacts. The architectural highlight was the magnificent king post truss restored in the 1960s. For medieval scholars, the restored garden is the most intriguing part of the Rothe House. Meticulously restored with the help of the Royal Horticultural Society of Ireland, a team of experts conducted a full archaeological excavation of the garden to decipher its medieval layout and the types of plants present in the 17th century. The garden was elevated more than a story above the ground level of the house and extended toward the city wall at the back of the lot. The garden was beautifully tranquil, if not a bit overgrown.

The final panel of the Ros Tapestry was being stitched at Rothe House.

Fair or not, the most exciting object we came across here is the Ros Tapestry. This ambitious project started in 1998 in New Ross in County Wexford. For 25 years, a team of 150 stickers created 15 large tapestries depicting Ireland’s Norman heritage, with a focus on events in southeastern Ireland. Currently, these tapestries are on loan to Kilkenny Castle, and the final tapestry is being worked on inside Rothe House. Seeing how such a magnificent work of art is being created by hand was fascinating. I only wish I had the patience for such a long-term project.

Kilkenny Castle

At the end of the Medieval Mile is the storied Kilkenny Castle. The imposing square castle, composed of four round towers, is the preeminent symbol of the Norman occupation of Ireland. The castle was first built in the 12th century but was most famously associated with the Butler family, who acquired it from the crown in 1391. Originally named FitzWalter, the family came from Normandy and was previously headquartered in nearby Gowran Castle. The Butler family accumulated considerable wealth through marriage and business acumen and ruled the area around Kilkenny for centuries.

The Butler family’s rise was briefly interrupted by the Irish Catholic Confederation when the Catholic rebels set up their capital in Kilkenny, forcing the protestant family to leave. The castle suffered significant damage in the subsequent siege by Oliver Cromwell. The northern wall was torn down, making the fortress into a U-shape. With the English having a firm foothold in Ireland, the defensive purpose of the caslte faded away. Many medieval features were removed and transformed into a pleasure palace. The style of today’s castle is primarily Georgian and neo-Gothic and resembles more like a university building.

The conditions of the castle were strictly tied to the family’s fortune. Toward the end of the 19th century, the family’s finances suffered, and the castle fell into disrepair. In 1922, the Irish Free State besieged the castle during the Irish Civil War, but the family was able to hold up inside without causality. Just barely a decade afterward, the family moved to London and auctioned off the entire content of the castle in 1935. The auction brought in £6,000, and the building was essentially abandoned for the next few decades.

In 1967, the head of the family sold the abandoned castle to a local restoration committee for a symbolic amount of £50. It was sold with a promise to restore the castle and open for public goods. The family recognizes that the castle belongs to the citizens of Kilkenny, and they cannot risk it becoming just another ruin. They also established a non-profit foundation called The Butler Society to preserve and showcase the family’s storied legacy. Over the decades, the castle has been restored to its former splendor.

The Office of Public Works currently manages the castle, and it is now a museum and a conference facility. Many celebrities and locals would rent out the venue for wedding celebrations. Being an OPW property means that our OPW Heritage Card covers admission. This €40 OPW card is our best investment on this trip; we almost recouped half the cost on the first day! It seemed like many foreign visitors were aware of this card.

About half of the caslte interiors are now a house museum. They are restored to how they might appear in the middle of the 18th century. However, because the original content was all auctioned off, most displayed items were period pieces from elsewhere. The artifacts may all be interesting, but the highlight would be the architecture itself. The first noteworthy space would be the Moorish Staircase around a light well. Created by the famous Irish architects Woodward & Dean, the staircase incorporates numerous carved flora and fauna.

The pièce de résistance of the castle is the Picture Gallery, designed by architect William Robertson. The entire wing of the castle was converted into a single gallery, which resembles the great hall of the Louvre. The collection on display is based mainly on the available historical photographs. But the real highlight is the richly embellished open timber roof trusses. Every inch is pained with faux-medieval patterns, and the cross beams are terminated with a gilded animal head. One would have assumed this impressive hall would be medieval, except for the skylights running down the hall. Another noteworthy feature is the large marble mantle piece illustrating the history of the Butler family.

Ex Voto Tintern Abbey: William Marshal's stormy crossing to Ireland.

Ironically, our favorite part of our visit was the temporary exhibit on the Ros Tapestry, which I mentioned earlier in this post. This amazing project is the brainchild of Reverend Paul Mooney at the historic Saint Mary's Church of Ireland Church in New Ross, County Wexford. In 1998, he began organizing a series of tapestries focusing on Norman's expansion into southeastern Ireland, particularly the founding of New Ross. It is a modern Irish version of the famous Bayeux Tapestry. Local artist Ann Griffin Bernstorff designed sketches of fifteen themes of the most pivotal events.

Conceived as a community effort, each tapestry panel is weaved at the local community near the historical events. Volunteer stitchers were recruited in each community and taught the technique required for the project. The process was laborious; it took a stitcher an hour to complete one square inch. Because of the panel size, only four stitchers could work on the piece simultaneously. On average, finishing a panel took between three to eight years. After 24 years, just one panel is left to be completed and is being worked on at the Rothe House in Kilkenny.

It was such a privilege to see all fourteen panels in one place. Compared to medieval tapestries, the vibrancy of the colors jumped out. Even though there is remarkable artistic continuity across all the panels, each piece still possesses a great deal of individuality in technical execution. The textual quality of these tapestries reminds me a lot of Vincent van Gough's exuberant brushstrokes. Norman occupation of Ireland may be as well-known as the conquest of England, but I am confident the Ros Tapestry is far more enjoyable to the modern eyes. It might very well dethrone Copenhagen’s Queen’s Tapestries as our favorite.

Part of me wondered whether the Ros Tapestry found a temporary home at Kilkenny Castle because New Ross is very far from the tourist trail. I suspect all the panels will triumphantly return to New Ross once the Kilkenny panel is completed; they deserve a dedicated museum. I hope this remarkable project can bring economic and cultural effects as Bayeux Tapestry did for Bayeux, France. I could only hope they don’t ship them to Dublin.

Arrogant Trespass: The Normans landing at Bannow Strand.

As the center of Norman rule in Ireland, Kilkenny always prides itself on being slightly different from the rest of the country. When Norman first arrived in Ireland, people were forbidden to speak Irish, intermarry, and adopt Irish customs. The parliament, headquartered in Kilkenny, passed a series of laws called the Statutes of Kilkenny in 1366. It aimed to assert the English supremacy on the island. The doctrines also established the Irish and English as rivaling “races.” of people. It shows how far we have come as civilizations.

The former castle stable is now home to numerous design boutiques.

The former stable is opposite Kilkenny Castle. It was once the home of Kilkenny Design Workshops (KDW), a public-funded research center promoting Irish design. It is one of the earliest examples of a government-sponsored institute for the design industry. Although the institute was disbanded in 1988, its legacy still looms large in Ireland’s creative sector. Nowadays, the stable houses an impressive collection of traditional artisans and design boutiques. This may be the best place to pick up authentic Irish-designed souvenirs.

Smithwick's Experience

Among all the attractions and landmarks in Kilkenny, the Smithwick’s Experience may be the most “touristy.” This place celebrates Smithwick’s, Kilkenny’s famous local brew. Guinness stouts may be the most favorite beverage in Ireland, but every county or city is passionate about their hometown beverage; County Cork has Murphy, and Kilkenny is Smithwick’s territory. It is among the more famous Irish beer brands and is available across the Atlantic. As a non-beer drinker, I usually couldn’t care less about beer. But I found Smithick’s scarlet red branding especially beautiful.

Despite being synonymous with Kilkenny, Smithwick’s was acquired by Guinness in 1965 and is now part of the British beverage conglomerate Diageo. To add insult to injury, Guinness moved the production to Dublin in 2013. However, to capitalize on Smithiwick’s heritage, the historical brewery has been transformed into a heritage museum. Fashioned after the immensely Heineken Experience in Amsterdam, Smithick’s Experience focuses more on historical narrative than specific brewing techniques unique to the brand.

Their €18 guided tour includes a multimedia presentation on Smithick’s early history and the ingredients behind the unique colors of their famous red ales. Smithiwick’s was founded by John Smithwick in 1710 based on a receipt from Kilkenny’s Franciscan abbey. Even though they were now part of Guinness, the locals would quickly point out that it was Ireland’s oldest operating brewery at the time until its closure in 2013. When John Smithwick arrived in Kilkenny, he could not own any property or open a business because of the anti-Catholic penal law. He circumvented this restriction by partnering with local businessman Richard Cole.

By the turn of the century, the business began flourishing under John Smithwick’s grandson Edmund. He began standardizing production and elevating the quality standards, making Smithick’s beer suitable for export. The company grew under his leadership, with exports to the British Aisle and the United States. The guide told us how Smithick’s first shipment to America disappeared at Boston Harbor. The mysterious disappearance was likely because of the corruption of Boston Police. A savvy businessman, Edmund Smithwick “blamed” the theft not on the police but the deliciousness of his red ale.

In addition to being a business magnate, Edmund Smithwick became deeply involved in local politics. He was elected mayor of Kilkenny four times, and his tenure coincided with the Great Famine. He transformed the brewery into a soup kitchen. I am confident this has much to do with the local’s loyalty to the Smithwick’s. In 2010, the brewery celebrated its 300th anniversary of John Smithwick’s first brew by realizing a new drink, Smithwick’s Pale Ale. Ironically, the production in Kilkenny would only last for another three years. In the era of mechanized production, it does beg the question of what makes a brew local in the age of international commerce.

The most iconic of Smithwick’s was its red ale. Although Irish red ale is not proprietary to Smithwick’s, the brew in Kilkenny is the most iconic. It incorporates a moderate amount of roasted barley and klined malts. Guinness developed a separate beer called Kilkenny Red Ale, which was formulated explicitly for export. Compared to other beers, the red ale has a mellower flavor profile with an undertone of caramel or toffee. An ingredient-tasting session was enjoyable for a beer novice like myself. But for beer enthusiasts, the entire “Smithwick’s Experience” would probably appear too gimmicky.

A pint of Smithwick's Original Red Ale and Kilkenny Cream Ale.

Predictably, the tour ended in a tasting room. The tour includes a pint of our choice. You could also get an upgrade ticket to taste all three of Smitwick’s brews. My pick was Kilkenny Cream Ale, which resembles a glass of Bailey’s coffee. I was sad to say I still prefer Bailey over beer. The attached gift shop offers a wide variety of branded merchandise, all quite reasonably priced. I picked up a pair of personalized Smithwick’s pint glasses, our first souvenir purchase of this trip.

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Kilkenny - The Medieval Ireland

Saint Canice's Cathedral

Medieval Miles

Kilkenny Castle

Smithwick's Experience

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