Southern Ireland Itinerary - Summer 2024

Brian has been pressing me to visit Ireland for the past ten years; I have heard many stories about the country for years. His first trip abroad was a family visit in the 1990s, and he also spent a semester studying at University College Cork in 2001. Weirdly enough, his affinity toward Ireland almost put me off visiting Ireland until now. Given Ireland’s proximity to New York, I kept putting Ireland off. Similar to why I have been avoiding domestic travel, Ireland seemed just too “tamed” and “familiar” compared to Malta or Latvia. At the risk of sounding rude, Ireland, in my mind, seems like the ideal destination for retirees.

Ireland became an option due to a last-minute change of travel dates. Since the airfare to Ireland tends to be much lower, it seemed like it was finally time to visit the Emerald Isle. Since Brian grew up in an Irish American household, we chose to revisit places where his family emigrated. Luckily, many of his ancestors came from Dingle Peninsula, one of Ireland’s most scenic areas. Since Ireland is so accessible, we weren’t pressured to see everything in a single visit. For this trip, we would forgo Dublin and focus on the southern part of the island. In addition to revisiting Cork, we were excited to check out the famous Ring of Kerry and the enigmatic Skellig Michael.

Day 1 - New York - Shannon - Kilkenny

The flight to Shannon is notoriously short, even shorter than domestic transcontinental flights. Shannon Airport is not particularly impressive, but the arrivals were a breeze. Even before we picked up our luggage at Shannon Airport, we were immediately treated by the Irish’s unique gift of gab from the immigration officer. We immediately knew this would be a great trip! After picking up our rental car, we were looking for my first Irish breakfast. The French Connection Cafe’s traditional Full Irish Breakfast put American grand slam breakfast to shame.

Our first stop was Rock of Cashel. Perched high on a bluff, this castle was the traditional seat of the Kings of Munster of Gaelic Ireland. Perhaps more importantly, this is allegedly the site where Saint Patrick converted and baptized the king in the 5th century. Twenty miles north of the castle is Devil’s Bit, allegedly where Patrick banished Satan. This is one of the numerous historical sites managed by the Office of Public Works (OPW); their €40 OPW Heritage Card gives us a year of unlimited access to nearly a hundred heritage sites. It was easily the best investment we made on this trip.

A short drive away was Kilkenny, where we would stay for a night. Kilkenny was once Ireland's medieval capital and the symbol of Norman occupation. The most famous landmark in the city is Kilkenny Castle. Built as a defensive castle, the castle was gradually converted into a residential palace by the Butler family. In 1967, the family sold the castle to a non-profit for the handsome sum of £50 on the promise that the decrepit castle would be restored. Today, this beautiful castle is a popular conference facility and art museum. The castle’s rose garden and castle green serve as the living room for the locals.

Across from the castle is the former stable, which has been converted into the National Design & Craft Gallery. The building complex houses a variety of local artisans and boutiques. We tried our best not to shop on the first day of a trip. Our lodging for the night was Kilkenny Ormonde Hotel, a business hotel with a fantastic deal. For €175, it includes a double room with a full breakfast and a 3-course dinner. Perhaps it was the jetlag, but we both went to bed well before the sunset.

Day 2 - Kilkenny - Cork

After another full Irish breakfast this morning, we ventured back out to explore more of Kilkenny. Our first stop was Rothe House & Garden, a beautifully restored merchant house typical of medieval Kilkenny. The most significant landmark in Kilkenny is probably Saint Canice’s Cathedral, the city's namesake. The cathedral is most famous for its 100-foot-tall Irish round tower and is the second-largest cathedral in Ireland. It speaks to the city’s status as the first capital of Ireland. To round up the visit, we dropped by Smithwick's Experience, a touristy but otherwise fun tour of Kilkenny’s famous brew. Speaking of touristy, we had lunch at Kyteler's Inn. The historic brew pub is famously associated with Dame Alice Kyteler, the first woman to be trialed for witchcraft in Ireland. The food offerings may not be the best, but the historical novelty warrants a visit.

It was about a two-hour drive from Kilkenny to Cork. Along the way, we stopped by two significant historical monasteries. The first stop was Kells Priory. One of the largest medieval landmarks in Ireland, this Augustine priory is mightily impressive even in a ruinous state. The settlement was heavily fortified and experienced several sieges in its time. A short drive away brought us to Jerpoint Abbey, another monastery that fell into ruin after King Henry XIII's order of dissolution of all religious orders. Thanks to OPW, the fabulous tour guide brought the abbey ruins back to life.

It was already half past seven by the time we arrived in Cork. After checking in at the stylish Dean Hotel Cork and dinner at the nearby Thompsons Bar & Restaurant, we took an early evening stroll through the city center. It had been 23 years since Brian’s last visit, so I was eager to see how much of the city he could remember. He was amazed by how much of the city center had been redeveloped and beyond recognizable. Fortunately, at least his apartment at Bachelor's Quay survived the ravage of urban renewal!

Day 3 - Cork - Cobh - Cork

We woke up to dreary weather this morning, which pampered a little of our sightseeing thrill. Our day started with a leisurely brunch at Good Day Deli. Housed inside the tranquil garden of Nano Nagle Place, this little restaurant seems a world apart from the bustle of Cork. Afterward, it was a brief walk to the Elizabeth Fort and Saint Fin Barre's Cathedral, two tourist landmarks of Cork. Along the way, we came across a couple of tour groups. While Cork is far from a tourist magnet, Brian marveled at how far Cork had come in rehabilitating its image over the past two decades.

The leading destination for the day is the seaside city of Cobh. Formerly known as Queenstown, Cobh is a storied place at the transatlantic crossing and Irish emigration. Brian’s great-grandparents emigrated to the United States in the first decade of the 1900s, and Queenstown was their departure port. We signed up for a walking tour with the Tiantic Trail at the last minute, and our guide, Maureen, was just fantastic. From being Taitanic’s last port of call to the sinking of Lusitania, Cobh sure has many stories to tell. The tour ended in front of the massive Saint Colman's Cathedral. She told us that passengers would attend a 6 am. mass here before boarding the ocean liner.

After a quick lunch at The Arch - Cafe & Wine Bar, we visited Cobh Heritage Centre, housed within the town’s Victorian-age train station. Our visit coincided with the semi-final of the GAA Hurling All-Ireland Senior Championship. Since this would be the first time Cork GAA advanced to the semi-final, a watch party was set up at John F. Kennedy Park in the town’s center. It was a festive occasion, and we celebrated it with a pint of Murphy’s at the bar of the historic White Star Line Building. From the terrace, we are just a few yards away from the wooden pier that Brian’s great-grandparents would have used. We were happy to make a toast to them.

Despite the inclement weather, this was our favorite day on this trip. We did not expect our visit to Cobh to feel so personal. Back in Cork, we had a reservation for dinner at Elbow Lane Brew and Smoke House. We might consider coming back to Cork just because of this restaurant. Brian was surprised at how Cork’s dining scene had evolved since his last visit. At the same time, I had to remind him that he was on a student budget back in 2001.

Day 4 - Cork - Kinsale - Cork

Because we planned a full day of sightseeing, we grabbed a quick bagel breakfast at the nearby 5 Points Cafe. Since we really enjoyed the guided tour with Maureen the day before, I signed up for a morning tour of the historic seaside town of Kinsale. It is a perennial favorite among visitors in County Cork, and it is not difficult to see why. From brightly painted houses to the calm water of its harbor, Kinsale felt like a place cut from a tourist’s imagination. Perhaps this was why Rick Steve’s 14-day tour of Ireland stayed two nights in Kinsale.

Kinsale's houses are "exceedingly" colorful.

Among Rick’s recommendations is the Historic Stroll Kinsale Walking Tours. The tour costs €8 a person, but only if the participant is happy with the experience at the end of the tour. The guide did an excellent job explaining why this harbor is so coveted among all the European powers. Like nearby Cobh, the town was a close witness to the sinking of Lusitania and the base of the navy. Some of the highlights around the city include Saint Multose Church of Ireland and the pub frequented by Sir William Penn, the father of the colony of Pennsylvania. Kinsale packs a lot of history into a small footprint.

After delicious fish and chips at Dinos, we heeded the tour guide's advice and walked to Charles Fort. This impressive star-shaped fort was named after King Charles II of England and was pivotal in the Seige of Kinsale. Once again, the OPW guide was excellent and vividly brought the history to life. Funny enough, the one tale most of us remembered was that of the White Lady of Kinsale. It was a story of forbidden love gone wrong. A photo of the alleged sighting at Charles Fort is sure intriguing. Many of us tried to recreate the picture from that same spot.

Among Irish visitors, Kinsale is well known for its gastronomic landscape. In the 1970s, a cohort of innovative chefs opened a new wave of restaurants reinterpreting traditional Irish dishes with international techniques and flavors. Ever since many noted Irish chefs have set up shops here. Three of Kinsale’s restaurants were featured in the 2023 Michelin Guide. For this evening, we had a reservation at Fishy Fishy Restaurant. Opened by Irish celebrity chef Martin Shanahan, this place was featured in a Rick Steve episode and was personally recommended by a friend.

Day 5 - Cork - Kenmare - Waterville

I woke early to make the most of our final morning in Cork. A few hours later, I met up with Brian at the Farmgate Cafe at Cork’s famous English Market. Before the hotel checkout, we stopped by the famous Shandon Bells at the Tower at Saint Anne's Church. Its carillon of eight bells was immortalized in the song "The Bells of Shandon" by Francis Sylvester Mahony. The clocks on the bell towers are known as "The Four-Faced Liar,” as the four clock faces do not correspond to each other. Our last stop in Cork was the campus of University College Cork, Brian’s alma mater, and old stomping grounds. It was undoubtedly an emotional visit.

The start of our Ring of Kerry adventure was the charming market town of Kenmare. Said to be the more attractive alternative to the more famous Killarney, Kenmare felt like the most touristy town we visited on this trip. Following lunch at Davitt's Kenmare, we checked out the Kenmare Stone Circle on the outskirts. It was… underwhelming. Ironically, that was my general assessment of the rest of Ring of Kerry two days later. The afternoon's highlight was a stop at Staigue Stone Fort, a Stone Age ring fort with a spectacular ocean view.

But as the day progressed, the weather continued to worsen. We could barely see anything from any viewpoints dotted along the ring road. Ring of Kerry has been a bust so far, so we had a pretty low-key evening at The Smuggler Inn. The lovely bed and breakfast is right on the waterfront and has one of the fanciest restaurants we tried on this trip. We could only hope the weather would improve tomorrow.

Day 6 - Waterville - Portmagee - Killarney

Our second day of the Ring of Kerry tour did not start well. Today's main activity was visiting Skellig Michael, the evocative island monastery and one of Ireland’s two UNESCO World Heritage Sites. The inclement weather meant we spent most of the morning waiting for updates on the status of the ferry service. As we waited for an update, we stopped at The Skellig Experience Visitor Centre, which has a small but informative exhibit. Shortly after our arrival, words were out that the all-island landing had been canceled due to safety concerns.

Daniel O'Connell's ceremonial carriage at Derrynane House

With our day’s plan tattered, I scrambled for things to do to salvage my Ring of Kerry tour. By now, the rain and heavy fog set in, and we could barely see twenty feet in front of us. We stopped briefly at Portmagee, the gateway of the Skellig Islands. While we had the option to take an excursion boat to Skellig without making a landing, it just didn’t seem worthwhile. According to the guidebook, the most popular stop in bed weather is the Skelligs Chocolate Factory & Cafe. Their generous free samples there definitely brightened everyone’s mood.

To get a dose of history, we backtracked half an hour to visit Derrynane House. This modest estate is the home of Daniel O'Connell. Often regarded as the George Washington of the Irish Republic, O'Connell remains the most revered politician in Ireland. After a quick sandwich at a local supermarket, we continued on the Ring of Kerry to visit a few minor sights on Valentina Island. By the time we reached Leacanabuaile Ring Fort and Cahergal Stone Fort, we were both mentally exhausted with the Ring of Kerry.

Our tour ended in Killarney, a legendary town among Irish Americans. However, travel guru Rick Steves famously compares the ambiance of Killarney to Omaha, Nebraska. I found the comparison not warranted. Maybe because of low expectations, we enjoyed all the dining and lodging options a tourist town could offer. Our dinner at Harro Killarney and the evening at Dromhall Hotel were excellent.

Day 7 - Killarney - Annascaul - Dingle

Since we barely saw any of Killarney last night, I was eager to start early this morning. After the hotel breakfast, we drove south to Muckross House, Ireland’s finest Victorian mansions. Once again, we were happy to put our OPW annual pass to good use again. Brian said this was his mom’s favorite place in Ireland, and I could understand why. This massive estate offers a fantastic glimpse into aristocratic Ireland. We were even tempted to hire a horse and buggies to take us to the nearby Muckross Abbey. Following fish and chips at Quinlan's Seafood Bar, we headed to Ross Castle. The in-depth guided tour of this classic tower house castle was well worth the wait.

It was only a drive from Killarney to Dingle, and I knew this would be a highlight of this trip. Parts of Brian’s ancestry can be traced to this part of Ireland, and he still remembers many places he visited twenty and thirty years ago. Our first stop on the peninsula was Annascaul, where Brian’s great-grandmother, Catherine Doolan, grew up. We tried to find local cemeteries and churches to see whether we could find her last name. When we mentioned to a local church lady that Brian’s great-grandmother used to play at Minard Castle as a kid, she suggested perhaps her last name was likely to be “Dowlings,” not Doolan. Of course, our next stop was Minard Castle. The seaside castle may be in a state of ruin, but the setting was just stunning. We can’t help feeling a little emotional, knowing this used to be her playground.

Soon enough, we arrived at Dingle Town, the largest town on the peninsula. Dingle is most known for its traditional Irish identity. Most shops here have signs written in Irish and a magnet for Irish folk musicians. Dingle was an absolute delight, and the bronze statue of the beloved Fungie, the Dingle Dolphin, warmed our hearts. After checking into our lovely Airbnb, we had a fantastic seafood feast at Out of the Blue. The evening ended with traditional live music at the venerated O'Flaherty's Bar. I could hardly think of a better first day in Dingle!

Day 8 - Dingle

We were excited to start our Dingle adventure with Ireland’s most scenic route: Slea Head Drive. Along the way are countless historical monuments ranging from early Christian to the Neolithic age. They include Dunbeg Fort, Cashel Murphy, and a couple of beehive huts. At Cashel Murphy, we started chatting with a staff member who was friends with Brian’s distant cousins in Danquin. Brian was shocked to learn that his cousin Áine passed away ten years ago. I have been pushing Brian to reach out to the other cousin, Pádraig, via Facebook, but he was too shy.

The Three Sisters (*An Triúr Deirféa*r).

After lunch at Tig Áine, we stopped at The Blasket Centre. This state-of-the-art museum tells the story of the Blakset Islanders, who occupied the Great Blasket Island until being forced to evacuate in 1954. What surprised us the most about the exhibit was how this corner of Ireland is associated with Springfield, Massachusetts. Since Brian grew up near Springfield, he recognized many places mentioned in the museum. To get a good view of the Great Blasket Island, we took a short stroll to the newly inaugurated observation platform.

Since the weather was suboptimal, we stopped at Kruger's Bar, another stop Brian remembered from his visit in the 90s. This convivial bar has been featured in numerous movies. Most interestingly, it is allegedly the westernmost bar in Europe. That was reason enough for us to drop in for a pint. Before returning to Dingle town, we stopped at Gallarus Oratory, Ireland’s most evocative early Christian structure. Having this whole place to ourselves made the experience all the more special. We wrapped up our busy day of sightseeing at the Boatyard Restaurant. Their Irish fish pie was so heavy that it immediately put me to bed.

Day 9 - Dingle - Great Blasket Island - Limerick

For a tourist town, Dingle’s breakfast option wasn’t great. The pancakes from The Diner Dingle were just horrible. The main event today was to explore the Great Blasket Island. We were fortunate to score one of the last few spots for the ferry boat from Dunquin Pier. Since we had a few hours before the ferry, we returned to Slea Head Drive to visit several historic sites, including Cathair Deargain Ring Forts, Chancellor’s House, and Saint Brendan’s Oratory. The highlight was our attempt to pass through the eye of "the eye of the needle" at Kilmalkedar, a Romanesque ruined church.

On our way to Dunquin Pier, we stopped by the lovely village of Ballyferriter. This is the one place we visited where we heard more Irish spoken than English. According to the 2002 census, nearly three-quarters of residents here were fluent in Irish. University College Cork even has an instructional facility for Irish language immersion. We had a lively time at Músaem Chorca Dhuibhne and picked some excellent pottery items at the nearby Sinead Lough Pottery. This is perhaps the most charming Irish village on this trip.

The abandoned village of Great Blasket Island.

From Dunquin, it was just a quick 20-minute ferry ride to the landing dock on Great Blasket Island. After a short hike, we arrived at the abandoned village. Brian became quite emotional as this was the place he had always wanted to visit. A few houses have been restored and converted into overnight accommodations. The most notable among them is the former home of Peig Sayers, one of the island’s most celebrated authors and Brian’s favorites. Our visit to The Blasket Centre yesterday certainly made our visit to the island all the more meaningful.

With nearly four hours until our return ferry, we had just enough time to hike around the island. Thanks to the excellent weather, the hike was easy and highly scenic. We had a view of the mainland, Skellig Michael, and Tearaght Island, the westernmost point of Europe. However, the Irish weather turned drastically, and a sudden rainstorm forced us to cut our hike short. But as usual, all the Irish people we met along the way kept our spirits high. Before boarding the ferry, we stopped at the white sand beach and herds of sunning grey seals.

Awesome hike around Great Blasket Island.

During our dinner at John Benny's Pub in Dingle, our waitress overheard that we would stay in Limerick this evening. She chucked and told us to get on the road immediately. But before heading out of Dingle Peninsula, I Insisted on a quick detour to the Conor Pass, one of Ireland’s most famous drives. It was among the places Brian vividly remembered from his family trip in the 1990s. It was almost midnight by the time we arrived at The Savoy Limerick. The hotel was surprisingly comfortable.

Day 10 - Limerick - Shannon - New York

We woke early to another foggy morning. Fortunately, it cleared right after breakfast at Hook & Ladder. We had exactly three hours to explore Limerick. Despite its proximity to Shannon Airport, Limerick sees relatively few international visitors. I was pleasantly surprised by just how pleasant and tidy the city was. Just north of the city center is Englishtown, Limerick’s medieval quarters. The imposing King John’s Castle and Saint Mary’s Cathedral testify to the city’s unique Norman/English heritage. Just across the River Shannon, we came across Treaty Stone, the city’s most significant and underwhelming landmark.

Limerick is a lot more beautiful than its reputation may suggest.

After a final pint of beer at House Limerick, we reluctantly made our way to Shannon Airport. We ultimately spent only four hours in Limerick, but I felt content about making the most of our quick layover. Passing by the Bunratty Castle, we could hardly believe that ten days had passed so quickly. Not surprisingly, Brian proclaimed that this has been his favorite European trip thus far and vowed to return every year from now on.

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