Cairo & Sinai itinerary - winter 2023

Making plans for the holiday period around Christmas and New Year was always tricky. The cost of airfare and accommodation was sky-high, and all the best options were booked months ahead. After much deliberation, we decided on Egypt because of an affordable flight deal. It was not until I booked the flight that I realized planning a trip to Egypt was more challenging than expected. It took me a few weeks to realize I neither had the time nor the expertise to plan a classic “Best of Egypt” tour. With just eleven days, I was resigned that we would have to do a follow-up visit to Upper Egypt.

To avoid mass tourism, we spent the second half of this trip on the Sinai Peninsula. While the Sinai has been a significant tourism center for Egypt historically, the tourism there has been decimated by the outbreak of the Israel-Gazan conflicts. The region has been placed on Level 4 of the State Department travel advisory. It did take some convincing for Brian to feel comfortable about the potential security risk. But in the end, Sinai turned out to be the highlight of our trip.

Day 1 - New York - Warsaw - Cairo

Our flight to Warsaw was a wet lease from the financially troubled Air Belgium. Operating on behalf of LOT Polish Airlines, Air Belgium excelled in passenger comfort. When we landed in Cairo, it was already half past ten in the evening. With our e-visa in hand, we cleared customs relatively quickly. Before we exited the terminal, we were hunted by aggressive drivers offering the rider. Per my online research, we used Uber to shuttle us to our hotel. Frustratingly, drivers on Uber all demanded payment in cash for an amount several times more than what the app quoted. It was a frustrating start to a vacation.

We stayed at the Steigenberger Hotel El Tahrir for our few days in Cairo. This four-star property was not luxurious but a decent place to rest our heads. By the time we finished showering, it was already two o’clock. I can’t believe we had a full day of sightseeing starting early in the morning.

Day 2 - Cairo

After a scrumptious buffet breakfast, we were ready to explore Cairo's madness. I originally planned a full-day guided tour of Islamic Cairo. But because we would arrive late the previous night, I canceled it to allow us a later start to the day. I figured I could do a DIY tour of Islamic Cairo and save some cash! It was a quick Uber ride from the hotel to the Mosque of Ibn Tulun, Cairo’s oldest mosque. What it lacks in splendor is more than made up with its historic ambiance. Attached to the mosque is the Gayer-Anderson Museum, an impressive house museum once owned by former British army officer Robert Grenville Gayer-Anderson. Besides the well-preserved domestic architecture, the museum also houses an impressive collection of artifacts highlighting various “foreign” influences on contemporary Egypt.

It was only a short walk from the museum to Al-Rifa'i Mosque and Sultan Hasan Mosque, often regarded as Cairo’s most historically significant mosques. They are considered masterpieces of Islamic architecture and an important pilgrimage site. The highlight for me was coming upon the tomb of Mohammad Reza Pahlavi, the last Shah of Iran before the 1979 Iranian Revolution. Interestingly, he was the brother-in-law of the King of Egypt, Farouk I, which explains why he was buried here in Cairo.

When we finished our visit, it was already two in the afternoon. We headed to Al-Mu'izz Street to search for lunch. Al-Mu'izz Street was the main artery during medieval times and is said to have the highest concentration of medieval Islamic monuments worldwide. The roof terrace at Cafe & Restaurant - Tekiyt Khan Khatun was an excellent lunch spot for the historic ambiance. Oddly enough, the normally bustling streets, including the nearby Khan el-Khalili, were subdued. We can’t quite figure out why since it was not a holiday or a Muslim weekend.

We signed up for an evening Cairo food tour via Airbnb Experience to round up our busy sightseeing day. Our guide, Magy, was an energetic young woman who took us through the back streets of Cairo. The three-hour tour was organized through the structure of three daily meals. Everyone was stuffed even before we finished the “lunch” courses. I couldn't say we loved Egyptian food, but it was an excellent introduction to Egyptian culture. Undoubtedly, the highlight was trying out the country’s most iconic dish, koshary. This dish may be confusing, but it was surprisingly delicious. I could understand why there are so many koshary stands in Cairo.

Day 3 - Cairo - Saqqara - Dahshur - Memphis - Cairo

Today was a busy day for sightseeing. Instead of going straight to Giza for the Great Pyramid, we took a private tour of Saqqara, Dahshur, and Memphis. Altogether, these sites gave us an excellent overview of the evolutionary history of Old Kingdom pyramids. Our tour guide, Adel, was like a walking encyclopedia of Egyptian history and culture. Our first stop was Saqqara Necropolis, the birthplace of the pyramid. The stepped Pyramid of Djoser was regarded as the world’s first pyramid, demonstrating how it evolved from the traditional mastaba tomb. Nearby was the Pyramid of Unas, which holds the world’s oldest pyramid text inside the burial chambers. It was our first time descending into the pyramid and quite an experience to remember.

Before leaving Saqarra, we stopped at the Serapeum of Saqqara. What is a Serapeum, you might ask? A Serpeum was a temple dedicated to worshiping Serapis, a syncretic god who combined the worship of Zeus, Osiris, and the Apis bulls. The Serpeum we visited was a catacomb of the ancient Apis bulls, which dated from the Middle Kingdom to the time of Emperor Augustus. The giant sarcophagi of these bulls were massive. It was mind-bending to imagine how the ancient Egyptians managed to transport them in place. It was our favorite site in Saqqara by far.

The next stop was Dahshur Necropolis, only about fifteen minutes away. Dahshur is far less compact than Saqqara and is dominated by two pyramids of Sneferu. He was the most prolific pyramid builder ever, having commissioned three pyramids. The most iconic of the three is the Bend Pyramid. As the name suggests, the architect changed the angle of the incline midway through due to worsening structural problems. It resulted in an unorthodox silhouette that is instantly recognizable. Ironically, this structurally defective pyramid has the best-preserved outer casing stones of all the Egyptian pyramids. Learning the lesson from the Bend Pyramid, Sneferu built another pyramid nearby using the shallower angle. Dubbed the Red Pyramid. this is technically the first true smooth-sided pyramid ever built.

Our final stop on the tour was Memphis, the capital of ancient Egypt. For a historically significant metropolis, very few traces of the city survived. Today, Memphis is a small village filled with modern buildings. Unbeknownst to most visitors, a tour of Memphis is limited to stopping at the Open Air Museum of Memphis. The park is filled with sculptures and architectural fragments found in Memphis. With little to no signage, the entire park looked more like a junkyard, if I was being honest. But the park does have a crown jewel: Colossus of Rameses II, which once guarded the entrance to the Great Temple of Ptah. The fine craftsmanship ancient craftsmen were able to achieve was stunning. Interestingly, an identical colossus now stands in the grand atrium of the brand-new Grand Egyptian Museum.

Colossus of Rameses II at the Open-Air Museum of Memphis.

Because Egyptians typically have lunch in mid-afternoon, we did not get to the restaurant until the end of the tour. Over lunch at Valley of the Kings Village, we learned about Adel’s business operation and the state of the tourism trade in Egypt. As a travel blogger, I found these behind-the-curtain conversations very illuminating. It also pained me when I heard Adel had never traveled outside Egypt. We must all remind ourselves how lucky we were to be able to travel the world. Since we had lunch so late, we skipped dinner and called an early evening. A few hours by the hotel pool was warranted after an exhausting day.

Day 4 - Cairo - Saint Catherine

Before leaving for the Sinai Peninsula, we had a few hours to spare in the morning. It was just enough time to visit the Museum of Egyptian Antiquities on El Tahrir Square. Commonly known as the Egyptian Museum, it is the most important museum of ancient Egyptian culture, at least until the opening of the Grand Egyptian Museum in Giza. While many artifacts were already transferred to the new museum, many iconic objects, such as the funerary mask of Tutankhamun, are still here. Even though he was only a minor pharaoh in ancient Egypt, Tutankhamun’s treasure still drew the biggest crowd. One can’t help wondering how many similar treasures were destroyed by looters throughout the millennium.

As magnificent a collection as the Egyptian Museum is, its state was atrocious. I have never been to a world-renowned museum that is so tattered and ill-managed. From the lack of architectural lighting to peeling pants, one must wonder how little money was spent on basic upkeep. It was as if the Grand Egyptian Museum (GEM) and the Museum of Egyptian Civilization (MEC) used up all the funding of the Department of Antiquity. What was less forgiving were some unsafe conditions that resulted from chronic neglect, such as loose wiring strung across the floor of a few galleries. One could only wish the new museum would provide enough breathing room for a much-needed renovation.

At noon, we were promptly picked up for a private transfer to Saint Catherine in the middle of the Sinai Peninsula. The five-hour drive took us through numerous military checkpoints; everyone, including the locals, must apply for advanced permission to make this overland journey. It reminded us of the political instability of today’s Egypt. I could only imagine how frustrating such stringent controls were for the local population. The security check was particularly rigorous at the tunnel entrance under the Suez Canal. For whatever reason, I assumed we could get a glimpse of the famous canal.

The serenity of Sinai reminded us a lot of Oman.

When we arrived at Saint Catherine Monastery, it was already pitch-black outside. At the monastery's entrance, there was yet another thorough security check, which stood in sharp contrast to the serenity of the physical landscape. We spent the night at the monastery guesthouse because we were doing a sunrise hike up Mount Sinai. After a quick dinner at the monastery canteen, we promptly went to bed for a few hours of sleep.

Day 5 - Saint Catherine - Dahab

Our hike up Mount Sinai started at two in the morning. As per the local regulations, we were accompanied by a Bedouin guide. Because of the Gazan conflict, the trail was eerily quiet. The full moon was just bright enough to illuminate the trail. We followed a camel track that winds up Mount Sinai, Egypt’s second-tallest peak. Thanksfully, the trek was not nearly as challenging as the Adam Peak or the Inca Trail. Along the way, there were many tea houses offering shelter and refreshments. They were also an excellent opportunity to connect with fellow pilgrims. The final section before the summit was a 750-step climb called Stairs of Atonement. As the darkness began to lift, the majesty and beauty of the landscape truly left us in awe.

Descending from the summit of Mount Sinai.

At the summit, there was a Greek Orthodox chapel and a mosque. But the most exciting spot was the cave where Moses allegedly hid for forty days and nights. Given its biblical significance, we were surprised there was no signage, except for one asking visitors not to throw garbage into the cave. We would not have known about Moses’s cave if it had not been for Solomon. On our way back down, we learned much about Mount Sinai's history and religious tolerance in this region. Despite the religious differences, the local Bedouins considered protecting Saint Catherine Monastery part of their heritage.

After a quick breakfast, Solomon took us on a tour inside the monastery. So, what made this place so unique? The monastery was built on the site of the Burning Bush, where God revealed itself to Moses. According to Judeo-Christian tradition, the bush has survived since Moses’s time. Some say the existence of the bush was miraculous, but I would say it was likely improbable. While this bush had been documented since the third century, there was still a significant gap in the overall timeline. For me, the authenticity of the Burning Bush was not particularly interesting to the history of Saint Catherine Monastery. I was much more fascinated by the monastery’s symbolism as a place of inter-faith coexistence.

Besides the Burning Bush, the monastery's claim of fame is its vast collection of ancient manuscripts, many more than a thousand years old. Saint Catherine is not only the oldest monastery in continuous existence but also has the oldest library in the world. Considering Sinai has always been on the frontiers of empires, the survival of these early manuscripts was miraculous. According to some accounts, this library is second only to the Vatican Library in terms of ancient manuscripts.

After Saint Catherine, Brian and I were ready for a little indulgent time on the beach. It was a two-hour drive from the monastery to the coastal town of Dahab, but we had to wait to join one of the police-escorted convoys for security reasons. I booked a three-night stay at Le Méridien Dahab Resort based on a recommendation from a travel blogger. This property looks magnificent on the surface, but the experience was so horrible that I suspect the resort was on the verge of imminent closure.

Day 6 - Dahab - Nuweiba - Dahab

Originally a humble Bedouin village, Dahab has long been a favored destination for backpackers. It seemed like a perfectly good alternative to the gleaming resort city of Sharm El-Sheikh. Dahab is also a convenient jumping-off point for many popular excursions, including many canyoning opportunities. After much research, I booked a private tour with Tarek (+20 127 301 2274). The full-day excursion includes a visit to White Canyon and Colored Canyon. The tour was costly, but we decided to splurge a little due to glowing reviews.

The tour started at White Canyon. Since this was our first canyoning experience, we were both slightly underprepared for the physicality it demanded. But we were also unprepared for the sheer beauty of the white limestone cliffs. There was something surreal about having the entire canyon all to ourselves. The trek eventually led to a little Bedouin village, which happened to be where our guide grew up. After a quick tea around the fire, we made our way to the Colored Canyon, more than an hour away through the dirt track. Along the way, we stopped at the Mushroom Rock, which looks like… a mushroom.

Access to Sinai’s fabled Color Canyon was not easy. Brian and I were exhausted before we embarked on the hike. Compared to the White Canyon, the trek took us through a series of ultra-narrow slot canyons. The resemblance to Arizona’s Cantaloupe Canyon was uncanny, but the color was not as vivid as some pictures online. The tour wrapped up with a late lunch back in the Bedouin village. Considering the rustic setting, the meal was delicious and far superior to our dinner yesterday at Le Méridien. In the end, we were pleased with our private canyoning tour.

We had just enough time to get a couple of glasses of Egyptian red wine at the hotel before heading to central Dahab to drop off our laundry. When we arrived in the town center, we immediately regretted our choice of accommodation. The promenade was bustling in the evening hours. All along the shore are rows after rows of seafood restaurants. Our dinner at the aptly named Shark Restaurant was terrific. It was by far the best restaurant service we had in Egypt.

Day 7 - Dahab - Ras Abu Galum - Dahab

After yesterday's wonderful tour, I looked forward to another popular day trip from Dahab. I signed up for a snorkeling trip to Blue Hole, Ras Abu Galum, and Blue Lagoon. Unbeknown to us, Dahab was a major snorkeling destination in the Middle East. The tour immediately went off the rail when we realized the operator had forgotten to send the car to pick us up. We ended up waiting outside the hotel gate for more than an hour. Eventually, they dispatched a taxi and dropped us at a random restaurant next to the Blue Hole. Blue Hole, a submarine sinkhole, is famous for its elaborate underwater cave networks, drawing thousands of professional divers annually. It is also one of the world’s most dangerous diving sites, claiming the lives of two hundred divers over the years.

Everything about this “day tour” was a mess. There was no tour guide, and we were left in the dark regarding snorkeling equipment and scheduling. Things worsened when we boarded the boat to Ras Abu Galum Reserve, the second snorkeling spot. Not only was it a chaotic scene, but the wave was so rough that it injured one of the girls in our tour group. After a thirty-minute snorkeling session, we jumped onto the back of a pickup truck, bringing us to the last destination of the day: Blue Lagoon. The lagoon is popular with windsurfers and is an excellent place to chill and admire views of Saudia Arabia across the Gulf of Aqaba.

Overall, this was arguably the worst tour we have ever been on. We were fleeced for cash every step of the way. When we finally returned to the restaurant at Blue Hole, we skipped their inclusive lunch and returned to our hotel. It was a mentally exhausting day, so we returned to the same restaurant for dinner. Sadly, we never saw central Dahab during the day. I can’t help wondering if we should have spent the day there instead.

Day 8- Dahab - Sharm El-Sheikh

As mentioned earlier, Le Méridien Dahab Resort was not exactly fabulous. With peeling paints and depressing food offerings, we were ready to leave as early as possible. As it happened, Brian booked us one night at a luxurious resort in Sharm El-Sheikh. It was a vacation from vacation for us before returning to the urban hustle of Cairo. From Dahab, it was only an hour's drive to Sharm El-Sheikh. Not surprisingly, we needed to arrange travel permissions between cities in Sinai. As we approached the outskirts of Sharm El-Sheikh, it became clear the whole city was physically sealed off from the rest of the peninsula with high walls.

There was something surreal and Disneyland-like about Sharm El-Sheikh.

Compared to Dahab, Sharm El-Sheikh seemed like the Las Vegas of the Red Sea. The wide boulevards are beautifully landscaped with flowers and immaculate green lawns. One thing that jumped out to me was just how prevalent Cyrillic characters are on the street. Due to Egypt’s relaxed visa policy, Sharm El-Sheikh is a favorite of Russian and Ukrainian holidaymakers. As much as I hated the concept of resort cities like these, I could understand why Sharm El-Sheikh is so popular. The climate here this time of year reminded me a lot of southern California. There are more than three hundred days of sun, and the weather is mild.

Compared to the Steigenberger Hotel we stayed at in Cairo, Steigenberger Alcazar was Shangri-La. It was one of the fanciest resorts we've stayed at. During the check-in, we realized we were the only guests without their all-inclusive package. On the spur of the moment, we decided it was okay to splurge for this one day. The quality of the service was superb. Oddly enough, we enjoyed their main buffet more than their specialty Mediterranean restaurant.

Day 9 - Sharm El-Sheikh - Giza

Today was our dedicated day of rest and relaxation. The front desk was kind enough to grant us a late check-out. One night was not enough to enjoy this five-star resort. Considering the exorbitant cost of this one-night stay, I was shocked by how many guests spend an entire week here. Because we were only there for one day, I felt pressured to “relax” and take advantage of what all-inclusive packages could offer. I downed five cocktails at the bar before leaving for the airport in the early evening.

Before we knew it, we were back in the chaos of Cairo. Since our last full day was dedicated to visiting the Giza Necropolis, I booked a pyramid-view room at the Pyramid Front Hotel. To my disappointment, the pyramid was illuminated at night, and we could barely make out its profile. And because it was New Year’s Eve, the party music went on all night long.

Day 10 - Giza - Cario - Giza

The day finally arrived to visit the Great Pyramid of Giza, the lone surviving Wonder of the Ancient World. But when we woke up in the morning, we were caught off-guard by a thick haze lingering over the sky. My gamble of leaving Giza to the very last day seemed to backfire on me. Thanksfully, we found out a short while later that the haze was not as severe on the Giza Plateau. Given the importance of Giza, we arranged to have Adel guide us for the day. The visit began with the Great Pyramid of Khufu. The immense scale of the construction was overwhelming; the structure was even more massive than I imagined. Of course, the highlight was to venture inside.

My favorite of the three pyramids was the Pyramid of Khafre, which retains the uppermost portion of the outer casing. Even though Khafre’s pyramid is not as big or tall as his father's, it appeared quite a bit taller because it was built on a higher ground. As famous as the pyramids of Giza are, I must agree with the consensus that they are not as fascinating as those in Dahshur and Saqqara. The harassment from touts also made the Giza necropolis less enjoyable. However, Giza does not have something unique: the mysterious Great Sphinx.

Before wrapping up this trip, there was still one place I wanted to visit: the Coptic Cairo. Unbeknown to most first-time visitors, around fifteen percent of Egyptians are Coptic Christians. On the way to the Coptic Quarter, Adel asked us whether we might be interested in visiting one of the perfumed oil shops. Although these shops are popular with many tourists, they are also known as tourist traps. Much to my surprise, Brian expressed strong interest. It gave me a reason to see how the sales pitch worked.

The Coptic Quarters is located in one of Cario's oldest areas, where the Babylon Fortress once stood. The church was first established by Mark the Evangelist. I did not realize that Jesus's family traveled through Cairo. They built a church, Saints Sergius and Bacchus Church, atop the cave that once sheltered them on their way through Egypt. However, the main attraction here was the Hanging Church, constructed atop the Roman fortress's gate. I only wished I knew more about the Coptic Church. This gave us an excellent reason to visit Alexandria for our next trip.

After saying goodbye to Adel, we spent our evening on the hotel’s rooftop terrace, enjoying beers, virgin cocktails, and hazy views of the pyramids. After dark, we searched the neighborhood for a postal box to send our postcards. Shockingly, nobody we talked to knew where to find one. When we eventually found a post office, we found no post box outside. This was the first country we visited where it seemed impossible to mail things out. We ended up getting dinner at the nearby Bazooka Fried Chicken, a popular fried chicken chain.

Day 11 - Giza - Warsaw - New York

The final day of a vacation is always bittersweet. This was particularly true when we saw the haze of the previous days finally clear up, and we finally got our picture-perfect pyramid views at the last minute. I can’t help but wonder what a peaceful oasis the place used to be when the Niles were still flooded or the urban sprawl. Cairo may not be an easy city to fall in love with, but I can’t wait to return to discover more of Cairo’s cultural riches. I wish we had a few more days on this trip.

The pyramid view from Pyramid Front Hotel.

Overall, this has been very successful and exceeded my expectations. Traveling in Egypt could be a frustrating experience, but it was still worth the cost and effort. We desperately need to return for another visit to Upper Egypt for Luxor and Aswan. Let’s hope the country can hold on to its tenuous stability. After the Syrian and Gazan conflicts, I know how the political situation could change quickly. No one should take anything for granted in this corner of the world.

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