Saint Catherine Monastery - A Paradigm of Peace
When I first created my travel bucket list a few years ago, I remembered putting Saint Catherine Monastery at the top. I knew nothing about the monastery's history and religious significance then. I was captivated by the existence of an active Christian monastery in the middle of an Egyptian desert. Situated at the foot of a dramatic mountain, the monastery looked almost like a creation from One Thousand and One Nights. So when I realized we might have to skip Upper Egypt on this recent trip, I immediately thought of visiting Saint Catherine and its ancient monastery. A visit to Mount Sinai was just a cherry on top.
Approaching the monastery after our sunrise hike of Mount Sinai.
Saint Catharine was our first stop in the Sinai Peninsula. For various reasons, we chose to travel overland from Cairo. We had to pass through a dozen military checkpoints during our five-and-a-half-hour drive. The United States Department of State’s travel advisory placed most of the Sinai Peninsula, excluding Sharm El-Shiek, on Level 4 advisory. However, other Western governments confined their advisory to northern Sinai only. Depending on your perspective, the number of checkpoints could be reassuring or concerning. We found the area to be very safe from the tourist perspective.
After a magnificent sunset hike up Mount Sinai, we returned to the monastery with our guide, Solomon. The working monastery is open to visitors five days a week from nine to half past eleven in the morning. Given the location’s remoteness, the short visiting hours add to the monastery's unique mystique. One thing that immediately jumped out to visitors is the monastery’s fortress-like appearance. The wall measures between thirty to seven feet in height and could be only ten feet thick at places.
Saint Catherine Monastery was high on my travel bucket list.
But unlike a typical fortress, it was not immediately where the main entrance was located. According to Soloman, this was purposeful, as monks historically practiced asceticism. More importantly, the absence of convenient access provided safety from external threats. Until about 1862, the only access to the walled monastery was through a door located several stories up in the wall. All materials and personnel must be lifted through a wooden winch for access. Today, there are two entrances: an official entrance for the monks on the west wall and a small opening cut into the north walls for the visitors. This tiny public entrance is so diminutive to the point that we felt like we were trespassing.
The monastery has always been a formidable fortress.
For centuries, the only access point was through a door several stories up. Visitors must be lifted in a basket.
Saint Catherine Monastery in the fifth century by Justinian the Great of the Eastern Roman Empire. Two hundred years before that, Helen, the mother of Rome’s first Christian Emperor Constantine, ordered a chapel to be built next to the biblical burning bush. Miraculously, the monastery was never abandoned during its 1,500-year history. It may not be the oldest monastery in the Christian world, but it is the oldest one that has been continuously inhabited. Today, the monastery is administered by the Church of Sinai, an autonomous church within the Greek Orthodox Church’s Patriarch of Jerusalem.
The monastery's crown jewel is the alleged burning bush from the Book of Exodus. As a non-Christian, I did not learn about this biblical tale until this visit. Like everybody else, my first question was how the authorities would know this was the burning bush from the Bible. According to the monks, the locals identified the burning bush when Christian pilgrim Egeria arrived in 383 A.D. Her first-hand accounts of pilgrimage to the Holy Land were some of the oldest records of early Christian pilgrimage. That was sufficient evidence for church authority to declare it official despite a three-year gap in the timeline.
The narrow corridor inside the monastery.
The legendary burning bush.
The mosaic beneath the actual burning bush.
Naturally, I had to put Solomon on the spot. I asked him whether he genuinely believed this was the real deal. Without hesitation, he said yes, and he was more sure about the burning bush’s authenticity than the identity of Mount Sinai. I am constantly amazed by how long the standard of proof is for spirituality and the supernatural. Sure, incontrovertible proof may not be possible for an object of that age, and I desperately hope this will be real. Who wouldn’t like a miracle?
When Egeria arrived in the fourth century, a small church stood beside the burning bush. According to traditions, the bush initially stood a few feet away but was moved to its current spot to accommodate the basilica. Below the bush’s canopy was a beautiful mosaic depicting Moses with the burning bush. The mosaic vividly illustrates the moment Moses took off his shoes, as directed by the voice of God. An excellent artwork of its own, it was even more beautiful because of where it is mounted. Standing beneath the bush, I could only imagine how moving this experience would be for a Christian or Muslim.
The legendary burning bush.
Prayers were left inside the cracks near the burning bush.
The burning bush appeared more frail than in other pictures I saw online. I asked Solomon how the monastery ensures the burning bush’s longevity. To my surprise, he said the monks never watered the bush, let alone institute some scientific monitoring program. Solomon told us that the current existence of a living burning bush is miraculous, so it is only natural not to interfere with its inherited divinity. We hope the monastery will take man-made climate change into account. Even though I am very doubtful of the authenticity of the burning bush, its loss would nevertheless be a tragedy for humanity.
As one of the holiest spots in the world, burning bush has attracted pilgrims ever since the fourth century. Many pilgrims left their prayers in the cracks of the walls. I was very tempted to retrieve some of them to see what kind of prayers people ask for. I wondered how many pilgrims picked up a piece of burning bush that fell onto the ground. That might be one of the most unique holy relics and perhaps the most unique souvenir from Egypt. I am surprised the monastery gift shop did not package them for sale. That said, UNESCO did note the danger pilgrims pose for the burning bush.
The 2007 murals depict the scene of Moses’s life.
With the help of a pump, the Well of Moses remains the monastery’s primary water source.
Besides the burning bush, the next most religious significant spot is the Well of Moses, just right from the visitor’s entrance. This ancient well is allegedly where Moses met his wife, Zipporah. According to the Book of Exodus, Moses intervened in a water dispute between a local shepherd and the seven daughters of a priest called Jethro. In gratitude, Jethro “gave” his daughter away to him in marriage. While that is a lovely tale, I am slightly confused about its historical feasibility. According to the biblical text, the event allegedly occurred in Midian, in modern-day Saudia Arabia. There was no biblical reference to that well-being within sight of the burning bush. One must ask how strong the evidence is for such a claim.
The 2007 murals depict the scene of Moses’s life.
Real or not, the Well of Moses was essential for the monastery's survival, as it is still the primary water source. In 2007, the monastery commissioned a Greek artist to create a series of murals around the well, depicting the life of Moses. As a non-Christian, I find these murals very helpful. After all, these murals were meant to educate illiterate pilgrims. Even though the monastery is famously associated with Moses, it received its name from Catherine of Alexandria. Not to be confused with the Catherine of Siena, Alexandria’s Catherine is one of the most celebrated Christian martyrs. She converted to Christianity at fifteen and was imprisoned by Emperor Maxentius. Catherine was eloquent, and if the historical narrative could be believed, she managed to convert many of her judges to Christianity during her trial.
To convince her to renounce her faith, Maxentius offered to take her as a wife in exchange. When she refused, he ordered her to be executed by wheels, a common form of torture until the late Medieval period. Miraculously, the wooden wheel shattered upon her touch. Frustrated, the emperor order her to be beheaded instead. Like other tales in that period, the details were undoubtedly embellished. The whereabouts of her body were unknown until it was “miraculously” discovered at Mount Sinai five centuries later. Veneration of Catherine became very popular soon after, which prompted the construction of the monastery we see today.
Unfortunately, only a small section of monastery is open to visitors.
To access the monastery, everyone had to be hoisted by this wooden winch during the medieval time.
By most accounts, most medieval pilgrims came here more for the veneration of Saint Catherine than for the association with Moses. However, despite the monastery being named after her, few traces or icons of Saint Catherine were visible to visitors. The relics kept in the monastery include her head and left hand, both stowed away in an ornate marble chest and only taken out for procession on special feast days. Typically, the reliquary is located behind the iconostasis inside the monastery’s main church: the Catholicon of the Transfiguration. This impressive basilica dates back to the middle of the fourth century when it replaced the original Chapel of the Burning Bush.
Catholicon of the Transfiguration.
The entrance into Catholicon of the Transfiguration.
Unfortunately, photography or conversations are prohibited inside the basilica. This is one of the oldest basilicas I have ever visited and is in such a remarkable state of preservation. Although the monastery has been attacked and looted throughout history, the basilica was never burned or destroyed. The interior is full-blown Byzantine in style and reflects the mysticism of Eastern Orthodoxy. The most exciting elements are the twelve roughly cut granite capitals and the intricate golden mosaic of transfiguration and God's revelations to the Prophet Moses. The interior felt gloomy but radiant.
Massive chandeliers and silver lanterns illuminate the single-nave church, donated by wealthy pilgrims and royal families throughout the centuries. For much of its history, the monastery enjoyed considerable patronage, first from the Byzantine imperial families and then royal houses, especially in Eastern Europe, such as Russian Tsar Alexander II and Ottoman Sultan Selim I. One very famous patron of the monastery is Napolean Bonaparte. When he conquered Egypt in 1797, he passed through Saint Catherine and granted special protection and autonomy to the monastery. He also provided the funding to rebuild the northern wall of fortification.
The icon of Saint Catherine outside the Treasury.
Due to its physical isolation and desert climate, the monastery holds an impressive collection of over three thousand ancient manuscripts. The Majority of the manuscripts here are Christian texts, but many others cover wide-ranging subjects, such as medicine and pilgrimage. According to some accounts, its collection is second to the Vatican Library. Historically, the monks take their roles as custodians seriously. In the mid-20th century, a purpose-built library was built at the southern end of the monastery. The library received a state-of-art upgrade fifteen years ago with financial assistance from Western governments.
The most notorious Sinai manuscript was Codex Sinaiticus, also known as the Sinai Bible. Dated to the fourth century, this document was one of the earliest and the most complete manuscripts of the Bible, containing both the Old and New Testaments. It was not only treasured because of its age but also a prized subject of comparative writing. In 1844, a German researcher, Constantin von Tischendorf, visited the monastery and recognized its historical importance. He was permitted to take a segment of the codex to Germany for research. A few years later, he returned to the monastery under the imperial patronage of Tsar Alexander I. Tischendorf arranged to borrow most of the remaining codex to be sent to Russia for transcription. He provided the monks with an affidavit affirming their ownership of the codex. The affidavit promises that it will be returned at the monastery’s request.
This entrance was sealed off for a few centuries until the late 19th century.
When the codex arrived in Saint Petersburg, its ownership was somehow transferred to the Russian imperial family. The Tsar gave the monastery a sizeable donation, including the carillon for the bell tower. However, the monastery always considered the loss of the codex as theft. Tischendorf’s affidavit is now prominently displayed for all visitors to see. In 1930, the Soviet leader Josef Stalin sold it to the British Library, which still owns the codex. This precious codex is now scattered among four institutions: the British Library, Saint Catherine’s Monastery, the Leipzig University Library, and the Russian National Library. This fact remains a sore point for the monks here.
Although the monastery’s manuscript library is only open to visiting scholars, it displays its most precious paintings and icons in a small but mighty museum. When we visited a typical museum, we usually were not the biggest fans of medieval religious icons. However, there is something extraordinary about seeing this collection because of its historical context. The first gallery exhibited many Byzantine-era icons, including the famous 12th-century icon of the Ladder of Divine Ascent. The Ladder of Divine Ascent was written as text by John Climacus, the late 6th-century abbot here. The text serves as a guide toward religious perfection through thirty “steps,” principally through the monastic life. This scene depicted monks climbing the ladder toward Christ while those tempted by demons fell off the ladder toward hell. The illustration is particularly beloved today for its literal representation of sins and how the clergy are not exempt from the danger of earthly delight.
The 12th-century icon of The Ladder of Divine Ascent.
The Covenant or Testament of Muhammad.
The gallery toward the back displays about two dozen ancient manuscripts. Solomon pointed out how many different scripts are represented here. While most Sinai manuscripts were predominantly Greek, many others include Coptic, Georgian, Latin, Syriac, and Aramaic texts. Of course, there are also quite a few Christian texts in Arabic demonstrating the continuation between Christianity and Islam. Among the most significant documents displayed in the museum is the Covenant or Testament of Muhammad. It is a certified copy of a letter written by the prophet Muhammad, granting the monastery special protections.
According to the monks, Muhammad visited the monastery several times during his lifetime. In 623, the monks sought and received the letter of protection. The letter came with a handprint of the prophet, elevating its religious significance. The letter provided safety to the monastery throughout the century. Sultan Selim I affirmed the monastery’s protection status in the early centuries but confiscated the letter. He sent a certified copy back in its place while the original stayed in the royal treasury in Istanbul. Most scholars confirm the letter's authenticity; it became essential in forging a peaceful Christian-Islam relationship.
The small gift shop at the monastery.
Could you tell this Greek Cross doubles as a weathervane?
Local Bedouins keep many camels to take pilgrims up Mount Sinai.
While I don’t necessarily believe in the burning bush, the Wells of Moses, or the miraculous discovery of Saint Catherine’s body, Brain and I were deeply moved by Muhammad’s letter, particularly in the context of the monastery’s relationship with the local Bedouins. According to the records, most Bedouins of Sinai are the descendants of soldiers sent by Emperor Justinian to construct and guard the monastery. Most converted to Islam a century later but remained fiercely protective of the monastery. The name of the Bedouin tribes most associated with the monastery is Jebeliya (meaning “mountain”), referencing Mount Sinai.
“One of them (Bedouins) said many years ago: ‘This is in our DNA because for 1,400 years we have been living here and protecting the monastery.’ This is quite remarkable if we think about it. We differ in language, faith, culture, and everything that should create conflict and tension. And yet, throughout history, we could see examples of mutual respect and mutual support. That is a wonderful example of our days. When we read this news, the news is filled with conflict, tension, and wars. When we think of Sinai, it is a place for peace. Sinai emerges as a paradigm for peace in our world today”
The Jebeliya Bedouins are further subdivided into four branches. Historically, the monks of Saint Catherine acted as mediators between the different branches whenever the conflict arrived. Over the century, the monks and the Bedouins developed a close bond that transcended culture and religion. The Bedouins provided the monastery with labor and safety, while the monks often offered medical care and education. One example of this close-knit relationship is the presence of a mosque inside the monastery. A white minaret peeks just beyond the wall and beautifully complements the nearby bell tower.
Intense conversations between Brian and Solomon.
How often do. you see a minaret inside a Christian monastery very often.
Take our guide, Solomon, for example; he is one of the most intelligent and articulate people we ever met. His encyclopedic knowledge of religion and history is awe-inspiring. Even though he had never traveled outside the Sinai, he was keenly aware of the world events. All of that could be attributed to the education provided by the monastery. He knew all the monks here and considered them personal friends. His face immediately lit up when I mentioned that I had heard of Father Justin. He even told us that we were staying another night; he might be able to get permission from Father Justin to let us inside the venerated library.
This might be one of the world’s most picturesque monasteries, right?
Like just about every Egyptian, Solomon was very upset about the current war in Gaza. For Sinai’s Bedouins, this conflict was different, not because it was just across the border. The Sinai Peninsula was under Israel’s military occupation twice: first from 1956-57 and the second time from 1967-82. Although Israel did a great deal in developing Sinai’s basic infrastructure, it was still a military occupation at the end of the day. Many were forced to vacate their ancestral land because of the military operations and newly constructed Israeli settlements. While he had little good to say about the State of Israel, Solomon was quick to emphasize that his dislike of Israel was based on the political reality Sinai found itself in. After all, he saw no fundamental conflict between Judaism, Christianity, and Islam theologically.
Local Bedouins keep many camels to take pilgrims up Mount Sinai.
The landscape surrounding the monastery is nothing but dramatic.
Unfortunately, when Sinai was returned to Egyptian control in 1982, most Egyptians viewed the nomadic Bedouins with great suspicion. Some believe the Bedouins were collaborators with the Israelis, and others suspect they engage in terrorist activities because of their semi-nomadic lifestyle. To this day, many essential state benefits remain out of reach for them. They were also left out of Sinai’s booming tourism trades over the past two decades. With northern Sinai under strict military control by Egyptian forces still, peace seemed elusive in the foreseeable future. Sinai’s turbulent history made the peaceful coexistence at Saint Catherine all the more improbable and precious.
I had to pinch myself with this view.
Lithogrpahy of Monastery of St. Catherine beneath Mount Sinai (1849).
As we admired the view of the monastery complex from the northern slope, Solomon gave us a brief overview of its architectural evolution. The monastery's physical isolation and the longevity of the religious community mean it retains much of its original layout from Byzantine times. In the monastery gift shop are many beautiful historical lithographs. A by 19th-century Belgian artist Louise Haghe is particularly striking. One could see how the monastery is essentially unchanged, except for the three-story library and the belfry. Interestingly, the minaret predated the basilica’s bell tower.
Saint Catherine Area is probably the most “authentic” UNESCO World Heritage Site I have visited thus far. Despite the influx of tourism, Sinai's spirituality persevered. However, we can’t take that for granted. Just down the valley was a massive development consisting of a modern hotel and the presidential villa. The government was also working on a brand-new expressway connecting Saint Catherine to the main coastal highway. I could feel a sense of unease about the coming changes in Solomon's voice. Would Saint Catherine retain its unique identity without the physical isolation?
Monastery’s vegetable garden.
The monastery guesthouse is convenient for those climbing Mount Sinai.
The monastery ossuary.
Since only a fraction of the monastery is open to visitors, it would take only an hour or two to tour the inside. Most foreigners visit Mount Sinai and Saint Catherine Monastery on a day trip from Dahab or Sharm El-Sheik. Most day tours depart from the coast just before midnight to allow enough time to ascend and tour the monastery before noon. Out of convenience, we chose to stay a night at the monastery’s guesthouse. The room may be spartan, but you can’t beat the tranquility and historical ambiance.
