Casablanca - The Real Morocco — Tuljak! Travel Blog

Casablanca is perhaps one of the most misunderstood cities in Morocco. As the largest city in Morocco, it is the cultural capital and the country's economic heartbeat. And yet, it is often bypassed by foreign visitors for one reason or another. The city’s modern appearance does not fit our romantic vision of Morocco. While places like Marrakesh and Fez have the allures of the Medina and grand palaces, Casablanca has modern office towers and convention centers instead. It is harsh to blame people for bypassing Casablanca. To many travelers, the city’s only draw would be the convenience of its massive international airport and the towering Hassan II Mosque.

Hassan II Mosque is deservingly the marquee landmark of Casablanca.

I must confess that I also thought of skipping Casablanca on this trip. If it was not for the desire to take advantage of the nonstop flight between Casablanca and New York, I may have missed this amazing city. I spoke with many locals from big cities to small mountain villages during my two-week trip. When I asked them about their families or the future of Morocco, they all lamented that all the young people are moving to Casablanca (or “Casa” as they commonly call it). It became painfully clear to me just how important this city is to modern Morocco.

As my trip progressed, I felt remiss in skipping out on Casablanca, Casa as Moroccans would call it. After all, there must be a good reason why this is such an attractive place for young Moroccans. At the very last minute, I adjusted my schedule slightly to allow a 36-hour stay in the city. That may not be enough time to comprehend a city of 3.5 million fully, but I sure would do my best to uncover the charm of this metropolis (or to discover the bad). It could not be that bad, right?

The First Impression

I arrived in Casablanca on a direct train from Marrakesh. Since Casablanca is the last destination of this trip, I decided to splurge a little bit by traveling in first class. Now I think about it, I cannot remember when the last time I traveled first class in any form of transportation was. The difference between the two cities was apparent almost Immediately. Casa-Voyageurs, the city’s main rail hub, is a modern behemoth compared to the little quaint station in Marrakesh. Although it could not compare to Beijing’s Fengtai Railway Station or Berlin Hauptbahnhof, this station could still put New York’s Penn Station to shame.

The massive “extenison” of Casa-Voyageurs Railway Station.

After two weeks in the southern part of the country, I must confess that I found some comfort in seeing many international chain stores like McDonald’s and Starbucks. From the station terrace, passengers had a panoramic view of the city. True to the name Casablanca, just about every building in the city is painted white. The architectural uniformity endeared the city to me almost instantly. At that moment, I still could not understand why this gleaming metropolis received so little love.

For my short stay, I would stay two nights at Ibis Casablanca City Center, across the street from Casa Port Railway Station. At $60 a night, it is one of the most affordable properties in the downtown business district and adequate for a short visit. Perhaps because of New Year’s Eve, very few taxis were milling around the station. The ten-minute cab ride cost me about 80 dirhams, which was overpriced. But in the moment's rush, I did not bother negotiating. I later learned that Careem, the Uber equivalent of the Arabic world, actually operates in Casablanca. It is just another reason for me to love this city.

The United Nations Square is now a bustling transit hub.

Likely due to the holiday, the part of the city I passed through in the cab was awfully quiet. Everything from the architecture and roadways reminds me of a typical midwestern city; I could not quite put that feeling into words. Perhaps this is why tourists don’t find Casablanca attractive. It was a five-minute walk from my hotel to the United Nations Square, often regarded as the city's center and perhaps the most important civic space. Once known as the Square of France, this plaza was designed to showcase the meeting point of old Casablanca (the Old Medina) and the European Ville Nouvelle (the New City). It perfectly embodies the city’s complex history and is a good jumping-off point in exploring Casablanca.

The Medina of Casablanca

Casablanca may be known as an ultra-modern city, but has a long history. Known as Anfa in ancient times, the Romans allegedly established the city in 15 BC, and it quickly became a modest commercial port under Emperor Augustus. But as far as I could tell, not much of the Roman Anfa survived to this day. For the most part, the old city we see today was constructed in the late 18th century after a devastating earthquake. The origin of the name Casablanca is still disputed. However, most scholars agreed that the city was renamed ad-Dār al-Bayḍāʾ (White House in Arabic) after the family of a Sufi saint who lived in the city. Because the Spanish colonial interests partially financed the city’s reconstruction, the Spanish name “Casablanca” survived under French colonial rules of the early 20th century.

The French colonial administrators in Morocco, particularly Resident General Hubert Lyautey, exercised a more “indirect” form of colonialism. Instead of forcibly imposing French culture on the local population, Lyautey worked with Morocco's existing political structure by being publicly deferential to the sultan. Many contemporary sources cited his genuine appreciation of Moroccan culture and maintained a close tie with the country even after his posting. Over a hundred years later, the colonial government's “Lyautey Method” left enduring marks in Morocco. A very tangible legacy is the preservation of Old Medina in Moroccan cities. Lyautey believed that the wholesale destruction of the traditional city would only create resentment and unrest among the local population. The Medina is one of the very few reminders of pre-colonial Casablanca.

Ironically, the most recognizable landmark of the Medina is the Casablanca Clock Tower. Conjoined along the southeastern side of the rampart, the original tower was first built in 1908 at the start of French colonial rules. The tower stands at the border between the Medina and the new French city and was the first structure built after the French conquest. The clock tower carried special significance as timekeeping was a triumph of European modernity. At the same time, the tower's design, in the form of a traditional minaret, was a symbolic nod to the country’s cultural heritage. Today's tower was a 1993 reconstruction of the original, torn down in 1948 due to structural deficiency.

Even if you have visited famous souks in Fez or Marrakesh before, I recommend taking an hour or two to explore the Medina of Casablanca. Because the city receives few sightseers, the souks here are remarkably “authentic.” I almost forgot that this was Casablanca, a city known for its modernity. You are less likely to find souvenir items here and less photogenic. However, I found the vendors here are generally less aggressive than in Marrakesh, which makes the whole experience very pleasant. Considering that Casablanca has no shortage of shopping malls or department stores, it is interesting how traditional souks are still striving in the modern world.

Hidden within the narrow lanes of the Medina is a surprisingly good collection of historical landmarks that tourists rarely visit. Among them are places of worship for all the Abrahamic religions: synagogues, churches, and mosques. The most interesting would probably be Ettedgui Synagogue, a historic synagogue that was partially destroyed by American bombing during the Battle of Casablanca in 1942 against Nazi German and Vichy France. The synagogue was in ruin for over half a century and was emblematic of the outward emigration of Jewish Moroccans during that period. It was not until the early 2010s that the Moroccan government made a comprehensive restoration project possible. The current King of Morocco personally attended the 2016 rededication. It should come as no surprise when Morocco and Israel finally normalized diplomatic relations in 2020.

It is jarring to see such an edge mural inside of Old Medina.

To best experience Old Medina's magic, I recommend exploring the narrow lanes far away from the hustle and bustle of the souk. Unlike many other Medinas I visited on this trip, Old Casablanca felt lived in and very “homey” even. Some contemporary murals added a dose of youthful vitality. But as I walked through the area, I couldn’t help wondering whether most residents here chose to stay here at will or as a necessity. Would they prefer to live in one of the nearby modern condominiums?

The “New City” of Casablanca

As much as I love Old Medina, what drew me here is the Ville Nouvelle of Casablanca, the “new city” constructed under the French Protectorate. The colonial government developed the city as the economic engine of French Morocco. The development focused on railroads, public sewage, and port facilities. But to most visitors today, the “new city” is the most visible remnant of the French era. As mentioned earlier, the French policy at the time was to create separate cities for Moroccans and Europeans. Similar new towns were constructed all across major Moroccan cities such as Marrakesh and Rabat. But none of them could rival the grandeur of the one in Casablanca.

Casablanca’s villes nouvelles is the project of Lyautey, the Resident General. He assembled a team of experts to design the new development, including urban planner Henri Prost, gardener Jean-Claude Nicolas Forestier, and industrialist Georges Risler. Together, they employed the latest practices in urban planning with a focus on sanitation and efficient transportation. Their plan followed modern urbanism's latest principle, Avant-Garde Urbanism. The design was also highly influenced by the Garden City movement from England. The resulting layout resembles the marriage of Haussmann's Paris and Christchurch, New Zealand. Casablanca was the second city in the world to adopt a comprehensive urban development plan.

As the residential quarter of European expats, the planners spared no expense on monumental architecture. Buildings here had financial backing from French ministers, Jewish industrialists, and even Moroccan pashas. The preeminent styles at that time were Art Nouveau and Art Deco, which are inherently individualistic and varied. Both styles are also highly adaptable to indigenous materials or motifs. In the case of Casablanca, the architects blended the influences of France, North Africa, and the United States. In particular, incorporating loggia and pergolas in these buildings is taken from traditional Moroccan architecture.

Because the entire villes nouvelle was developed quickly, the architectural ensemble demonstrates remarkable consistency. In 2013, this part of the city was placed on the tentative list for the UNESCO World Heritage Sites registry. For “UNESCO aficionados” like myself, it was only natural for me to visit before its inscription. According to the nomination, villes nouvelle are unique in their scale and state of preservation. If there were no landmark ordinance here, it would be almost a miracle that no major “modern” building has been built in this zone over the decades.

Despite the glamour of its grand architecture, villes nouvelle today is the shell of its former shell. While most buildings are still in use, they are far from the most economically prosperous area nowadays. Most of these grand buildings are occupied by relatively small retailers or offices. I was surprised there were barely any big international chains in the zone, except a KFC and McDonald’s at the United Nations Square. It seemed like just a real missed opportunity for downtown revitalization. Central to the preservation of villes nouvelle is a non-profit organization called Casamémoire. They are the main public advocacy group in safeguarding Casablanca’s architectural heritage, particularly the 20th-century buildings. Not only are they instrumental in the UNESCO tentative listing, but the group also offers architectural walking tours for those who made a prior reservation. Unfortunately, I missed out on the tour on this visit.

The grand entry archway of Central Marketplace.

The first sign of this revitalization is the shining Casablanca Tramway, which runs along Boulevard Mohamed V, the main commercial axis of villes nouvelle. Inaugurated in 2012, this modern light rail system injects a sense of modernity into the neighborhood. Several blocks of the boulevard toward the United Nations Square are now pedestrianized to create a more relaxing ambiance. But the most important project is probably the ongoing “reconstruction” of Hotel Lincoln. The new luxury hotel by Radisson Blu will inhabit the shell of the landmark Neo-Moorish Bessonneau Building, which has been abandoned and half-ruined since independence. This is the kind of marquee project that could jump-start neighborhood development. While the opening is still at least two years away, it is exciting. I am more than willing to splurge a bit to stay in such a landmark property for my next visit!

The courtyard of the Central Marketplace.

Given how few businesses were open during my visit, the most energetic part of villes nouvelle is the Central Marketplace, located right across from Hotel Lincoln. This location once held the 1915 Casablanca Franco-Moroccan Fair and has always been the center of activities. French architect Pierre Bousquet designed its Neo-Moorish architecture. The building resembles a palace courtyard, with the central entry portico closely mimicking the imperial palaces in Fez or Rabat. However, a modern clock above the archway reminds us this is the place of commerce.

Around the inner courtyard are a plethora of restaurants and small eateries for visitors to pick from. Seafood seems to be the specialty around here. Because Casablanca does not have a street food culture like Marrakesh, the market is the best place in the city to sample quick snacks. The best parts of the market are all the seafood vendors housed under the octagonal hall in the middle. I read that visitors and locals would buy fresh seafood from the stand and cook it at nearby seafood restaurants. For those not looking for a full meal, I recommend getting some freshly shucked oysters. At 10 dirham a piece, this might be the best oyster I have ever tried.

The Modern Casablanca

While the center of villes nouvelle may be deserted, it was a completely different scene just a few blocks away. The urban bustle of Casablanca is quite exhilarating. As much as I enjoyed the beauty of Art Nouveau buildings, there is nothing more exciting than a busy plaza filled with young families. The city's center would probably be Mohammed V Square, another Hubert Lyautey and Henri Prost’s creation. The square was packed with locals during my visit as if it were the city’s living room. I read that the locals colloquially call the plaza “Pigeons Square” because of the abundance of birds here. Based on my observation, I could attest that such a nickname is apt. A local vendor quickly approached me to see whether I was interested in purchasing bird feeds.

Many stately civic buildings surround the square, including the Palace of Justice, City Hall, and the Central Post Office. But right across the street is the city’s newest monument: Casablanca Grand Theater. Aimed to become the largest theater complex in Africa, this cultural project was designed by French architects Elizabeth and Christian de Portzamparc and is slated to open next year after more than a decade of construction. The theater’s fragmented yet expressive forms make it look interesting, if not totally out of place. Even for an open-minded architect like myself, I have to say this is probably one of those designs that I would never understand. Is it just me that some parts of this theater look like a Sonos speaker?

Just a few blocks northwest of Mohamed V Square is Arab League Park, a 75-acre urban oasis that was part of Henri Prost’s plan. Originally named Parc Lyautey, the park was inaugurated in 1918 and synthesized Moorish and neoclassical garden design. The park centerpiece is the rows of nearly manicured palm trees and reflective pools. I honestly did not expect just how magnificent and beautiful this place is. Lucky for me, they just completed a multi-year renovation, which restored many original garden features, plenty of contemporary artworks, and elegantly designed vendor kiosks. My personal favorite corner is the colonnade of a former Portuguese prison and a colorfully modern reconstruction by Daniel Buren attached to it. Casablanca has a knack for the juxtaposition of the old and the new.

But for most visitors, the most notable landmark in this area is probably the Church of the Sacred Heart, the former Catholic church. This impressive structure is a synthesis of Gothic and Art Deco styles. The church was officially deconsecrated after Moroccan independence in 1956 and operated as a cultural center. For us Americans, the building resembles more an LDS Mormon temple than a Catholic church. The appearance is reminiscent of the Mormon temples in Washington and San Diego. I wouldn’t say this is among the most beautiful churches I have seen, but it is indeed photogenic.

Unfortunately, just like the Mormon temples, this “church” is not open to the public. It has been closed for renovation for the past few years, and there doesn’t seem to be any information on when it might reopen. I wonder whether the city should consider converting it into an active mosque like Turkey did to Hagia Sophia in Istanbul. After all, maintaining this mammoth structure can’t be cheap. The exterior looks as good as new to the city's credit.

A boulevard bisecting the Arab League Park.

At the corner of the Arab League Park, I came across a brand new Skatepark Rachid. As you could expect, it is a big gathering place for young people. Generally, I was not a big fan of skateparks since they tend to attract rebellious teenagers. But I was surprised by how many young families taught their kids to skate. The family-friendly atmosphere made it a wonderful place for people to watch. Brightly painted giant murals also added to the laid-back ambiance. I was surprised by just how much I enjoyed Casablanca thus far.

Hassan II Mosque

For a majority of tourists visiting Casablanca, I suspect the one and only stop is Hassan II Mosque. Situated right on the shore of the Atlantic Ocean, the mosque is the largest in Morocco and has the second-highest minaret in the world. Since its completion in 1993, the mosque is undoubtedly the most recognized symbol of the city and the pride of Morocco. The vast complex includes a madrasa, museum, conference facility, library, and hammams. It is a destination and is almost like a small city in its own right.

The waterfront location is said to have a special religious meaning in Islam, and it is a metaphoric meeting point between God and mortals. The mosque stands on a promontory formerly the site of a massive outdoor swimming pool. Conceived first as the mausoleum for King Mohammed V, the structure soon morphed into a personal obsession of King Hassan II. The construction took seven years and employed an army of craftsmen from Morocco. It is estimated that 10,000 artisans took part in the project, handcrafting each door and mosaic panel. During the height of the construction, there were as many as 1,400 workers on the construction site once. In the attempt to complete the mosque before King’s 60th birthday, the construction was around the clock.

The corniche started just west of Hassan II Mosque.

The splendor of the mosque is mightily impressive, not just for its size but also for its prominent location. The kingdom spared no expense. Estimated to cost over 630 million dollars, the project was not beyond criticism in a lower-income country. The government took out substantial construction loans from foreign countries to fund the project. They even solicited donations from the Moroccan public, attracting 12 million individual donors. This financing scheme was also a masterful public relations strategy, as it fostered a feeling of public ownership. Even though they did not complete the project in time for the king’s birthday, it is still impressive that they managed to finish it in seven years. A similar-sized project in the United States could take two or three times as long.

Because this was the marquee landmark of the city, I woke up early to get there in time for the first guided tours. As soon as I left the cab, I knew something was off. There were only armed security guards and two other tourists in sight. According to the guards, all guided tours were canceled because of New Year’s Eve, which was not surprising in hindsight. However, there was no mention of the closure on their official website. The closure was limited to the mosque’s interior and the surrounding plaza. The entire perimeter of the complex was barricaded with armed soldiers. The level of security felt like an overkill if you ask me. Refusing to acknowledge the closure, I lingered around the area, hoping the situation might change. I was not the only person surprised by the closure. Buses and buses of tour groups also stopped every ten minutes and were turned away. Even seasonal tour operators did not know about the closure either.

Before this trip, I was so excited about this visit. In particular, I was keen to see how it compares to the Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque in Muscat, Oman. Given how much we enjoyed that mosque, I am prepared to be underwhelmed in Casablanca. However, the more I read about Hassan II Mosque, the more I think it may just outdo its Omani cousin. Among all the features, the most impressive feature would probably be the retractable roof over the central prayer hall. I think that is much more impressive than any football stadium's retractable roof.

Considering the prominence of Hassan II Mosque, I was surprised by just how anonymous and residential the surrounding neighborhood is. Shanty houses are constructed with corrugated sheet metal and scavenged materials just a few blocks away. The contrast between the poverty and the glamour of the mosque was jarring. It inevitably conjured up this stereotype of “vanity projects” in developing countries without regard for the economic situation of the locals. That said, today's mosque could be considered a public amenity for prayer and a great place for families to gather for picnics and evening strolls.

I highly recommend watching the sunset from the corniche for anyone who plans to spend over 24 hours in Casablanca. Although I was not able to visit the mosque itself, strolling along the seaside promenade was a great experience all in itself. The corniche teemed with locals, especially young families and couples, by late afternoon. It was a convivial atmosphere with popcorn-selling vendors and mobile carnival rides. As the sunset sets toward the horizon, the structure takes on a golden and pinkish hue. The whole structure appears to be almost floating above the ocean mist. It was quite an otherworldly sight to witness.

Habbous Quarter

If there is one place that could best summarize the history of Casablanca, I would nominate a neighborhood in the southeastern part of the city: Habbous Quarter. The neighborhood was constructed in 1917 at the start of the Fench Protectorate. It was conceived by Hubert Lyautey as a “new city for the indigenous population” ("nouvelle ville indigène). In other words, Habbous is the colonialists’ attempt at synthesizing the Medina and Ville Nouvelle into a new form of urbanism, which earned it the nickname Nouvelle Medina (New Medina). Nowadays, it is one of Casablanca’s most charming neighborhoods and is popular among foreign visitors.

Constructed in 1930, the lands where Habbous is located were once owned by a successful Jewish trader Chaim Ben-Dahan. He donated a large swath of lands to the sultan to curry favor with the new political changes in the early days of French rule. However, due to the religious difference, the land was transferred to an intermediary agency in Morocco, which continues to own and administer the site today. Included in the development was a royal palace for the sultan. But like all the royal residences in Morocco, this palace is not open to visitors. Even the plaza before the palace gate was closed off, with armed soldiers guarding the perimeter. I can’t help thinking that the security measure was a little overboard.

Thanks to my zoom lense, It was able to take a peek to one of the side doors of the Royal Palace.

Habbous is about a fifteen-minute cab ride from downtown Casablanca. As soon as I stepped out of the car, I was immediately transfixed by the romantic ambiance. True to the designer’s intent, the neighborhood does feel like a Disney film set. The streets are wide enough for modern traffic but winding enough to evoke the feeling of a traditional Medina. The streets felt particularly empty since it was a public holiday, and only half of the shops were open. Today’s Habbous is known for its bookshops and cultural ambiance.

Aside from the royal palace, the important landmark in Habbous is Mahkamat al-Pasha. The civic complex resembles the palace but has had many functions in the past, including a courthouse, jail, ceremonial hall, and the residence of the Pasha of Casablanca. Even though it was constructed in the 1930s, the builders still used most traditional methods due to the wartime shortage of industrial steel. According to many, the inside of the building is supposedly the most splendid interior in Casablanca. It is open to visitors by guided tour, but I could not find any reliable information online. Since it was New Year’s Eve, I figured there was no chance of visiting anyway. Well, this is always the next time.

This is probably my favorite spot in Habbous Quarter.

The architecture here takes on a streamlined Moorish motif that is very modern. Along the major thoroughfare is Habbous’s souk. Vendors here sell your standard Morocco items like jewelry and fabric. But unlike the souks in the Old Medina, the shopping experience here is very relaxing. The covered arcade shelters shoppers from the sun but makes the souk appear orderly. It was pretty clear that this was Casablanca's “fancy” area; a massive team of street cleaners seemed to be roaming the whole area. And just like at Ville Nouvelle, I secretly wished they would open a boutique hotel here to develop Habbous into a premier tourist destination.

When I reflect on my 36 hours in Casablanca, Habbous stood out as a pleasant surprise. Even though I did not visit the inside of any monument here, the area still left a deep impression on me. Since Casablanca reflects the crossroads of different cultures and traditions, Habbous is the symbolic fusion of the French and Moroccan urban environments. I could not help but wonder what an elegant and eclectic city Casablanca could have been if it were not for the rise of post-war modernism.

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Casablanca - The Real Morocco