Southern Morocco Itinerary - Winter 2022

For whatever reason, our last few trips have all been rather last-minute. Because of my forced vacation around the holiday period, it was quite expensive to travel anywhere. Compounded by the fact that I did get around to booking the ticket until late October, these are the most expensive airline tickets I have ever purchased. This trip to Morocco was also somewhat of a redemption for us. We booked this trip exactly a year ago. But in late November 2021, the Moroccan government halted all international flights after discovering the new Omicron variant. By serendipity, I was able to re-use my planned itinerary from 2021. Who would have thought?

Since we were visiting during the winter months, we opted to focus on the southern part of Morocco, plus a one-day jaunt to Casablanca to take advantage of a direct flight home. This itinerary is reasonably fast-paced without resorting to endless “one-night stands.” Ultimately, we are quite happy with this itinerary as it covers many natural and cultural landscapes. During our trip, we met American travelers attempting to cover the whole country in just ten days. It is clear that they clearly underestimated the size of Morocco and just how long it would take from one place to another. Especially considering the short daylight hours in winter, spending five hours in the car daily is less than ideal.

Day 1 - New York - Casablanca - Marrakech

When our Royal Air Maroc flight landed in Casablanca, it brought back a memory from the last time we were there. It was a five-hour layover on our way to Lisbon, and we can’t say it was our favorite place. Bizarrely, there was no passport control when making the domestic transfer at Casablanca Airport. Instead, we were greeted with an hour-long line at Marrakesh. After settling into our lovely Riad Azzouna 13, we were ready to take on the intensity of Marrakesh. Wading through the busy lanes of the Medina, we arrived at Jemaa el-Fnaa Square, the city's beating heart. A stroll around the nearby Koutoubia Mosque gave us the best sunset view of Marrakesh.

After sunset, the square came alive, reminding me of the night markets I grew up with. We joined one of the numerous musical troupes on the square for half an hour of singing and story-telling. Even though we did not understand it, it was a perfect introduction to Morocco. Meanwhile, Brian was worried about being scammed and the nearby snake charmers. His concern was not entirely unfounded. Even after our initial payment, one of the musicians did try to extract a laughable large tip from us at the end. It was clear that we would need to be careful going forward on this trip.

After getting lost for a bit, we finally made it to Nomad, one of the most popular restaurants among visitors. It is down for its modern take on Moroccan cuisine. The rooftop terrace would have been perfect for sunset dinner, but we were woefully underdressed for Moroccan winter. We ended our first night with a bottle of Moroccan red wine back in our riad. Who knew Moroccan wine was so delicious?

Day 2 - Marrakesh

As was the case for every other new city I visited, I decided to wake up at the crack of dawn and explore Marrakesh before the hustle and bustle of the city set in. The contrast with the night before was quite jarring. After our first Moroccan breakfast, we visited some of Marrakesh’s most famous sights. Our first visit was to the Bahia Palace, the city's finest palace. As beautiful as the palace was, it was still no Versailles or Alhambra. Less than ten minutes away was our next stop: El Badi Palace. This massive palace complex was once the royal reception complex of the Saadian dynasty. Merely a hundred years later, the palace was stripped of its precious decorations by a sultan of the next dynasty. Oddly, the highlight of the visit for us was the family of nesting storks perching atop the palace ruins.

After a basic lunch at Restaurant La Terrasse du Marché, we continued our Marrakesh “palace crawl” at Dar Si Said, which now houses the National Museum of Weaving and Carpets. While neither of us was interested in the history of Moroccan rugs, the interior decoration inside this palace was perhaps the most sumptuous in the city. While Brian was taking a quick nap back at the riad, I spent some time wandering the labyrinth of the souk more. We eventually met up at Le Jardin Secret, which is probably the worst-kept secret of Marrakesh. Unlike other palaces we visited today, Le Jardin Secret is a green oasis in the middle of the Medina and a welcomed respite from urban chaos. It was a perfect place to unwind and enjoy the warm Moroccan sun.

Like most first-time visitors, we eventually ended up at Jemaa el-Fnaa Square right before sunset. Since we already had a dose of the square frantic energy up close last night, we opted to put a little more distance between us and the action this time. All around the square are plenty of cafes and restaurants with a rooftop view. Since the views are the main selling point of these establishments, I naturally had no high expectations for the food. Terrace Café de France turned out to be not a total disaster. The food was edible, and they had the highest rooftop terrace. Watching the square coming alive is a major highlight of Marrakesh.

Day 3 - Marrakech

Our main goal for today was a visit to Jardin Majorelle, supposedly Morocco's most visited tourist attraction. Before our eleven o’clock appointment, we had the opportunity to visit Madrasa Ben Youssef, which only just opened earlier this spring after a multi-year restoration. Although much of the madrasa lacks any interior content, the architectural details are astonishingly beautiful. Brian instantly called it his favorite spot in Marrakesh thus far. From the madrasa, it was a half-hour walk to Jardin Majorelle. Along the way, a scammer tried to convince us that the main road was closed and that he could take us there through a special route. Well, I was well-prepared for that scam and just laughed at him.

Even with a prior reservation, getting into Jardin Majorelle was still a hassle. Several queues were outside the entrance, and nobody seemed to know what was happening. The chaos continued inside as visitors mobbed the garden. This supposedly tranquil oasis felt like Disneyland on Memorial Day weekend. Enjoying the garden peacefully was nearly impossible, let alone taking some great photos. The attached Berber Museum was even more crowded. For us, the saving grace of the visit was the garden’s beautiful gift shop, which stocks some of the highest quality Moroccan goods we have seen thus far. Also included in our combination ticket is the nearby Yves Saint Laurent Museum. While I couldn't care less about fashion design, I was most interested in the eye-catching architecture by the French architectural practice Studio Ko. The architecture was beautiful, but the visitors’ experiences were subpar overall; it was quite a disappointing morning.

The entry courtyard of Yves Saint Laurent Museum.

From Jardin Majorelle, it was a 20-minute stroll to the center of Gueliz, the “new city” set up during the period of the French Protectorate. The city was paid out in a Haussmanne-like fashion with broad boulevards in a radial pattern in Paris. The contrast between Gueliz and Medina was jarring, and I was happy to explore the modern site of Marrakesh. For lunch, we had a surprisingly fancy meal at Le Petit Cornichon, a popular French bistro that is popular with French expats. Even though Gueliz may not be the most attractive neighborhood, this area is home to Marrakesh's thriving art scheme. There are many art galleries and fashion boutiques for art lovers.

After a quick visit to the Royal Theatre of Marrakesh, we did the much-needed shopping for heavier jackets before heading into the Sahara a few days later. Embarrassingly, we decided to shop at Zara rather than from vendors in the souk. We were exhausted by the harassment and haggling at the souk. After a long day, we treated ourselves to sunset cocktail hours on the rooftop bar at the fancy El Fenn Hotel. It was fun to be fancy just for an hour or so. For our last evening in town, we had a lovely dinner at Restaurant Le Jardin Marrakech, Nomad's sister restaurant. Set in the lovely courtyard of a massive riad, it is one of the most romantic restaurants we have ever visited.

Day 4 - Marrakesh - Aït Benhaddou

After three nights in Marrakesh, we were ready to move on. Before picking up our rental car, we had a few hours to spare. I took this opportunity to visit the Museum of Marrakesh and the House of Memories. For both places, the architecture is more impressive than their exhibits. Considering that our riad is located in the maze of the Medina, it was quite difficult to find a cab. After dragging our luggage for ten minutes, we finally found a taxi to take us to the airport. Shockingly, the driver did not overcharge for the ride.

Since the start of the pandemic, it has not been uncommon for them not to honor our reservation. The unpredictability of car rental added a lot of stress to our trips this past year. Luckily, the Avis at Marrakesh Airport has the automatic car that we reserved ahead. It was such a great relief! Our drive was a breeze as we bypassed the center of Marrakesh. We joked that people here drove more civically than in New Jersey. The drive to Aït Benhaddou was a breeze and an excellent introduction to the Moroccan countryside.

Our destination today is Aït Benhaddou, perhaps one of the most iconic villages in Morocco and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It is undoubtedly the most photogenic town I have ever visited. We are staying in Kasbah Tebi for the night. It is one of the two hotels inside the old city of Aït Benhaddou and is known for its rustic interior and the absence of electricity. All the rooms were candle-lit and had no outlets for charging the electronics. The owner, Mohamed, was wonderful and told us about the conservation efforts that made the hotel a reality. After watching the sunset from the summit of Aït Benhaddou, we had a wonderful candle-lit dinner back at the hotel. It was our first encounter with tajine in Morocco. It was very good indeed. Spending a night without electricity or cell service was a unique experience.

Day 5 - Aït Benhaddou - Ouarzazate - Skoura

Even though Hotel Tebi may be the most interesting hotel we have ever stayed at, spending a night without heating or electricity was not conducive to a good night's sleep. We woke up well before sunrise this morning to watch the moment the direct sun hit the Aït Benhaddou. Despite the frigid temperature, I was overjoyed by the excellent weather and the subliminal view of this Moroccan landmark. After breakfast, we had a self-guided tour of Aït Benhaddo, including hiking up the adjacent hill.

After bidding goodbye to Mohamed, our first stop was the movie set of the 2006 thriller movie The Hill Have Eyes 2. Seeing an American-style gas station in the middle of the Moroccan highland was odd. Another half-hour away is the city of Ouarzazate, known as the “Hollywood of Morocco.” We took a guided tour at the Atlas Corporation Studio to better appreciate the city's movie heritage. Because of the arid climate, many film sets from decades ago have been kept and reused over the years. The tour was really interesting, even for movie novices like myself.

Besides the film studio, the most unique landmark in the city is the Ouarzazate Solar Power Station. As the largest solar power plant in the world, we could see the central solar tower and the reflected light beams from miles away. After an excellent lunch at The Full Sun, we stopped at the Taourirt Kasbah, a massive 19th-century fortified neighborhood built by a local pasha. Given our limited time and the scale of the kasbah, we hired a private tour guide who grew up in this kasbah before it was turned into a museum. Of course, the tour ended at a shop where an intense sales pitch guiled us into buying two overpriced blue Tuareg scarves.

Our final destination today was Skoura, a famous oasis town known to have the largest palmeraie in the country. Navigating the narrow lanes was quite a challenge. To treat ourselves for the night, I booked ourselves for a night at Les Jardins de Skoura. This all-suite guesthouse has a gorgeous garden and a wonderful restaurant. We only wish we had stayed here on another night. To top it off, each room also has a working fireplace. It was a luxurious experience all around.

Day 6 - Skoura - Boumalne Dades - Tinghir

Compared to our previous night, I slept like a baby. On the other hand, Brian stayed up way too late, trying to tend the fireplace. Our first stop today is Kasbah Amridil, which is often regarded as the most splendid kasbah in the country. It was a little bit of an odd experience as the kasbah is split in half and operated by two families. I am not sure which part of the kasbah is more impressive, but the views of the palmeraie were magnificent.

From there, it took only an hour to reach Boumalne Dades, the entry of the Dades Valley. This valley extends quite a distance northward and is known for unusual geological features such as the famous “Monkey Paw”. Ironically, the most famous landmark is a mountain switchback road. A handy cafe, Café-restaurant Timzzillite Chez Mohamed, was purpose-built to take advantage of the amazing view.

Our next stop is the city of Tinghir, which is the jumping-off point to another valley, the Todgha Gorges. This narrow valley may be less scenic, but it has an awe-inspiring narrow canyon. Even with little direct sunlight, the gorge still looks mightily impressive. We stayed at an Airbnb in Thinghir hosted by Mustafa and his wife for the night. The traditional guide house overlooks the city’s massive palmeraie and is very atmospheric. The highlight of the day is just chatting with Mustafa and his brother. They were both Berber Jews and had interesting life stories to share.

Day 7 - Tinghir - Zagora - Erg Chigaga

As much as we appreciate Mustafa’s hospitality, our bedroom was not exactly a great place due to the lack of heat and reliable hot water. We underestimated just how cold the nights could get. Today would be the longest driving day on this trip. It was a five-day drive to the town of Mhamid before entering the desert camp in Erg Chigaga. Most of the drive this morning went through a desolate landscape and was eerily beautiful. Along the way was a series of small but thriving cities. Unfortunately, we did not have the luxury of time to make stops.

At the outskirts of Mhamid, we met up with Dewel, who will be our driver into the desert camp. It was another two-hour drive in a Toyota Land Cruiser into the Sahara. Of course, Brian and I were in awe of Dewel’s ability to navigate this “featureless” landscape. Some adventurous visitors even self-drive themselves to the camp with a GPS device. While I want to save the 2,000 dirhams for the transfer service, I can’t imagine ever making it to the camp without getting lost or stuck in the sand. After about ninety minutes, the sand dunes emerged on the horizon. It was as magnificent and exhilarating as we imagined.

For our Sahara trip, I picked Nubia Luxury Camp, among the more expensive operators in Erg Chigaga. Not only is the tent's interior tastefully decorated, but the camp’s small capacity also brings a sense of exclusivity. Unfortunately, we missed the sunset at the dune because of an emergency call from our pet sitter. Staying in the camp tonight were two American families and a Moroccan couple. After dinner, we all sat around the fire enjoying the traditional Berber music performances. What else could we ask for in Morocco?

Day 8 - Erg Chigagag

I set my alarm for half past seven this morning to catch the sunrise. By then, the American families were all on the sand dunes. Since they were due to leave for Marrakesh at ten o’clock, they needed to treasure every moment at the camp. I was amazed by just what a transcendent experience it was. When we visited Oman’s Sharqiya Sands in 2018, we did not have the opportunity to enjoy a beautiful sunrise because of the overcast weather. So, I was very grateful to have such glorious weather this time.

The purple color of the sand dune just before sunrise was surprising.

After breakfast, I tried out sandboarding for the first time. It was slightly more challenging than I imagined, but very fun nevertheless. But of course, there was no chair lift like at a ski resort, so getting up the sand dunes could be quite physical. As the sun's position changed in the sky, the colors of the sand also shifted in unexpected, entertaining ways. Time was quite an interesting concept in the deserts. Since there was no vegetation or barely any other natural features, it felt as if we were suspended in our own state of mind. At first, we were a little confused about what was here for us to do all day. But it didn’t take long for us to appreciate that just being here was a blessing.

Among the standard activities they offer guests is visiting a local Beber family. While I don’t think the entire experience was staged, seeing hordes of tourists converge at this tiny family’s estate in the desert was almost comical. It was a well-choreographed demonstration of Berber living. The highlight for most visitors is probably the baking bread in the sand; it tasted glorious. After a short break, we embarked on the most iconic activity in the desert: a sunset camel trek to the dunes. And yes, the experience was as magical as people say. Because we were the only guests tonight, it was quieter than yesterday. I suppose we had the best of both worlds.

Day 9 - Erg Chigaga - Zagora - Foum Zguid

Although I witnessed the sunrise yesterday, I still could not pass on seeing another one. After all, who knows when we will be next time we are in a magnificent desert like the Sahara? After our last breakfast at the camp, we were ready for the long journey ahead. It was the same two-hour off-road drive back to Mhamid, and the novelty from two days wore off by now. Eventually, we had to bid farewell to Dewel and thank him for taking good care of us in the past two days. Of course, we left a good tip for him. After all, this highly seasonal tourism is the lifeline for the local community.

From Mhamid, it was another three-and-half-hour drive to the day's destination: Foum Zguid. Before reaching Zagora, we suddenly decided on a change of travel plan. Over the past few days, New York has been hit with record frigid temperatures. Because our heaters back home have not been working properly, it has been a struggle to keep the temperature above 50°F since we left home. For the past two days, the indoor temperature dipped to around 38°F, which was far too cold for our cat. We made the snap decision for Brian to return home on the next available flight. Luckily, there happened to be an airport in Zagora.

“The 52-days to Timbuktu” sign in Zagora.

Over lunch at Restaurant Marwa Zagora, we made the necessary travel arrangements. Brian could fly from this tiny town in Morocco to New York via a stop in Casablanca with only an additional charge of $108 USD. After a quick stop at the famous “The 52-days to Timbuktu” sign and dropping Brian at Riad Lamane, I was on my own to continue the rest of the Moroccan road trip. From there, it was another two-hour drive to Hotel Bab Rimal in Foum Zguid. I was the only guest in the hotel until a Dutch family checked in at the last minute. It turned out that one of them was a colleague of Brian. What a remarkable serendipity that was!

Day 10 - Foum Zguid - Tafraoute

Today was another long driving day for me. From Foum Zaguid, it was almost a five-hour drive to my day's destination: Tafroute. I was not quite prepared for just how beautiful this drive was. The geological striation of the mountain ranges seemingly comes straight from a Bob Ross painting. It was among the most stunning scenery I have ever seen, so I was surprised that there was barely any traffic along this route. Along the way are a series of small villages, all set among the gorgeous landscape. My favorite stop this morning was the village of Tissint, which has a picture-perfect palmeraie oasis and a medieval mausoleum. How much more could I ask for?

After passing the small village of Irherm, I made a sharp turn southwest onto R106. Driving on this desolate, narrow mountain pass was a bit nerve-racking. There was barely any cell reception, and I saw exactly two cars for the next hour. This would be the worst place to bust a tire. Thankfully, this particular section of the road was less scenic, which helped keep my distracted driving at bay. However, arriving at Tafraoute was a sublime experience; I had never seen such a dramatically unique rock formation so close to the city. Tafraoute reminded me a lot of Sedona in Arizona. It was not difficult to see why this place is considered the rock-climbing capital of Morocco.

Upon arrival, I made a beeline to Les Roches Peintes (Painted Rock), which drew me to Tafraoute in the first place. Created in 1984 by the Belgian artist Jean Vérame, it is like Ugo Rondinone’s Seven Magic Mountain, albeit on a much more epic scale. Set in a pristine valley south of Tafraoute, this massive work spread across the landscape like a giant spelling his colorful gems on his way home. It is as beautiful as it appeared in the photos online; I was shocked that hordes of Instagram-obsessed teenagers had not descended on this place.

My next stop is the small village of Tazka, which is situated above a palmeraie. Along the rock face are two stone etchings of gazelle, one dated two hundred years ago and another from prehistoric times. But the highlight here is the nearby Berber House Museum of Tazka. This is a personal project of Mahfoud Idhihi, who works to preserve his traditional family home so that future generations can better understand the Berber lifestyle of a bygone era. The house is faithfully restored to how it appeared when he was growing up. Among the most fascinating conversations we had was about the effect of climate change in Morocco and how smaller towns like Tafraoute struggle with population decline.

The backside of *Le Châpeau de Napoléon* (Napoleon’s Hat).

As the sun descended, I could not help but drive back toward Les Roches Peintes. The painted rock took on a special orange hue. The word “sublimity” really came to mind for me. It was also a popular spot with camper vans. Well, I could hardly think of a better view to wake up to. After dark, I suddenly realized I had skipped lunch today or forgot to check the hotel first. I guess I let my travel adrenaline prevail sometimes. While my dinner at Espace Harbaz Cafe Restaurant was forgettable, Auberge Kasbah Chez Amaliya was a true oasis after a long day of travel.

Day 11 - Tafraoute - Taroudant

I woke up early today to take some early morning photographs of Le Châpeau de Napoléon (Napoleon’s Hat). Ever since I first read about Tafraoute, I have been mesmerized by this weird and impressive massive rock formation. Seemingly coming out of nowhere, this rock is said to resemble a bicorne, a traditional headwater made famous by Napoleon Bonaparte. Even though there it is a major landmark of the city, it was not marked on Google Maps.

Finding the famous viewpoint took me quite a while, but it was well worth the effort. Sadly. My time at Tafraoute was short as it was another three-hour drive to the next destination. But before leaving town, I was keen to see the famous Lion’s Face. It is a natural rock formation that resembles a lion’s head when viewed under certain conditions. Unfortunately, the sun’s angle was not quite right, and I could only barely make out the face.

The morning view of Le Châpeau de Napoléon (Napoleon’s Hat).

There were two routes connecting Tafraoute and Taroudant. Against the advice of the locals, I decided to take Route R105 to pay a visit to Tizourgane Kasbah. Perched atop a circular mount in the middle of the valley, its floor is no less impressive than Italy’s Civita di Bagnoregio. But from what I read online, it was only open to overnight guests, so I was happy to admire it from afar. Today's road may not be as scenic as yesterday, but it was still a great drive. Before long, I arrived at the Sous Valley, the main growing region of Morocco’s famous argan trees.

Nicknamed the “Little Marrakesh’,” Taroudant is one of those towns that guidebook writers swoon over because of the absence of mass tourism. The crown jewel of Taroudant is its impressive rampart, which is more than five miles long and beautifully restored. Despite the frequent comparisons with Marrakesh, much of the architecture inside the Medina appears to be quite modern and well-organized. The town lacks the architectural charm that I was expecting.

During my check-in at Le Palais Oumensour, I asked the woman at the front desk for sightseeing recommendations. She pulled a city map and told me to walk its entirety. Sen asked about anything worth seeing besides the city wall; she said she couldn’t think of any! Well, that was encouraging. After wandering around the city for two hours, I reluctantly agreed with her. Taroudant turned out to be a massive disappointment on this trip so far. Thankfully, this hotel is the most luxurious lodging on this trip. For once, I was just fine lounging by the pool and doing nothing. Their 200 dirhams prix fixe dinner was delicious.

Day 12 - Taroudant - Agadir - Taghazout- Essaouira

Since I was quite bored in Taroudant yesterday, I got up before sunrise to start the day early. As a bonus, I also got to avoid the parking attendant stalking me the previous day. Today was another long day of driving. But fortunately, we will pass through several interesting places along the way. From Taroudant, it was a quick hour-long drive to the coastal city of Agadir. Because much of the original city was leveled by a massive earthquake in 1960, Agadir was rebuilt as a modern city with suburban sprawl today. On my drive into the city, I could hardly tell I was in Morocco.

View of Agadir from the Kasbah of Agadir Oufla.

My first stop of the day was the Kasbah of Agadir Oufla, a 16th-century Portuguese fortress that sits high above the city. From there, visitors had a panoramic view of the city and a sweeping view of the Atlantic. Unbeknownst to me, I drove my rental car up the hill illegally. Access should be reserved for tourist buses or authorized guides only. Luckily, the police officers in charge let me go without warning and even gave me five minutes to snap some photos from the Belvedere. Because Agadir is a popular beach destination for European vacationers, I felt obligated to check out Agar’s sandy beaches. After walking past a series of beach clubs and gated condominium complexes, I realized this place is not my cup of tea.

My next stop for the day is Taghazout, less than half an hour north of Agadir. Taghazout seems like the most unlikely tourist hotspot of all the places I have visited in the country. A former sleepy Berber fishing village, this place was “discovered” by western hippies in the 1970s. Since then, it has been transformed into a high-end Bohemian surfer paradise. Seeing white surfers in wet suites sharing the village with traditional fishermen was weird. The hipster vibe was in full swing at the beachfront Restaurant Windy Bay. In addition to the acai bowls and avocado toast, there was also an army of laptop-towing digital nomads.

It was another two-and-a-half-hour drive from Taghazout to Essaouira, the last stop of my road trip. The outskirt of Essaouira looks quite similar to Agadir, but what drew people here is Essaouira’s historic walled city. When I entered the old city, I immediately fell in love. After checking into the lovely Villa De L'ô, I was eager to explore the city before watching the sunset from the oceanfront ramparts. Since this city is known for its seafood, a wonderful seafood dinner at Restaurant Sayef was a great way to cap off a long day.

Day 13 - Essaouira

After several days of “one-night stand,” I was glad to stay in Essaouira for two nights. After an early breakfast at the riad, I was able to have an up-and-personal tour of the city’s working fishing port. I am delighted to see how fishermen tolerate foreign tourists mulling around their domain. Because of the compactness of the Essaouira, it was not difficult to explore every nook and cranny of the Medina. Aside from the impressive ramparts, some of the most intriguing landmarks are the city’s many Jewish sites. The city once had a thriving Jewish community. The city’s Jewish quarter (mellah) still has several synagogues.

Among the most important sites nowadays is the newly inaugurated Bayt Dakira (House of Memory). This museum is dedicated to Jewish life in Essaouira. It now attracts Jewish visitors from Israel since the two countries normalized the relationship in 2020. The diplomatic breakthrough between Israel and many Muslim countries was probably one of the very few achievements of Donald Trump that I could agree with. Another noted site in the city is the Jewish Cemetery, located just outside the city’s wall. Unfortunately, the cemetery was closed on the day of my visit.

After a seafood lunch at Restaurant du Coeur, I was in the mood to do some shopping. Since I was almost at the end of this trip, it was time to think about bringing home some souvenirs. Among the Moroccans, Essaouira is known particularly for its pottery. Thanks to a thriving tourism economy, plenty of design boutiques and antique shops exist. While I ultimately came up empty-handed, I enjoyed the shopping experience here much more than in Marrakesh. I only wished Brian could be here as shopping alone was no fun.

For my last meal before returning to Marrakesh, I decided to stick with a more humble meal at the well-reviewed Restaurant Khmissa. The 100 dirhams 3-course fixed menu at this tiny family restaurant hit the spot. It is, oddly, one of the best tajine dishes I had on the trip. Essaouira was quite romantic at night, as the city does an excellent job lighting up the city. Sadly, I had an early wake-up call tomorrow, so it was an early night.

Day 14 - Essaouira - Marrakesh

I was due to return the rental car to Marrakesh by 1 pm today, so I need an early start on the road. I was shocked to learn that one of my car tires was deflated. Thankfully, it was not slashed so that I could get back on the road rather quickly with the help of a gas station attendant. Frequent police checkpoints manned the highway between Essaouira and Marrakesh, and I was stopped by the police several times this morning. I must say that I am deeply impressed by their courtesy and professionalism. The few officers that I encountered were also very professional and courteous.

Before returning the car, I took the opportunity to visit the Menara Gardens. Located just east of the airport, the garden is one Marrakesh landmark quite a distance from Medina. Unfortunately, the smog of this morning obstructed the view of the snow-capped High Atlas Mountain backdrop. Per the instruction of the rental car agent, I brought the car to a car wash before returning it. The 50 dirhams cash wash was the most thorough one I have ever seen. It took a team of three more than twenty minutes to clean the vehicle inside out.

After checking into Riad Awa, I tried to make the most out of my last 24 hours in Marrakesh. Ironically, I was returning to Jardin Majorelle, which I had not enjoyed a week ago. The sole purpose of the visit this time was to their gift shop. After almost two weeks in Morocco, their collection of design goods was the highest quality I came across. Their modern take on Moroccan design is particularly attractive to anyone with a modern sensibility. I also visited the nearby Villa Oasis, an adjacent garden closed during my initial visit. Afterward, I was keen to visit some art galleries in Gueliz. On my way there, I started a conversation with a man named Meddur. It ended up being one of my most bizarre experiences on this trip. You can read more about this episode in my post about the curious case of Moroccan hospitality.

After finishing my espresso with Meddur, I finally visited Comptoir des Mines Galerie. This free museum is housed inside a beautiful Art-Deco office building. While the actual exhibits are far more modest than I first imagined, it was still a great visit when all is considered. From there, it was a lovely walk toward Jemaa el-Fnaa Square. Even though I did have a reservation at Nomad, I canceled it at the last minute in favor of sampling the numerous street foods on the square. The fried seafood and the Moroccan snail soup were both delicious! Eating at the square is a culinary and cultural experience all visitors should partake in in Marrakesh.

Day 15 - Marrakesh - Casablanca

So… my luck has finally run out. After two weeks on the road, I finally got my dreary day in Morocco. Before my late morning train to Casablanca, I had an hour or two to kill. I visited Saadian Tombs, a late 16th-century royal necropolis right. According to experts, one particular room of this cemetery is the epitome of Moroccan architecture, and I could see why. With that, I was ready to say farewell to Marrakesh. For the train ride, I upgraded myself to first class. Even though it was not as fancy as it may sound, the experience was very pleasant.

When I arrived in Casablanca, I could feel a noticeable difference in the people and infrastructure. True to the city’s name, most buildings here are painted white, and the central business district reminded me of Midwestern cities such as Cincinnati or Indianapolis. The plethora of chain hotels, such as my Ibis Casablanca City Center, makes the city feel more corporate. However, it did not take me long to discover the unique Moroccan charm of Casablanca. In particular, the Art Deco buildings are particularly thought-provoking, albeit in a state of disrepair.

I did a whirlwind self-guided tour around central Casablanca with a few hours to spare before sunset. Among the landmarks I visited included the United Nations Square, the Grand Theater of Casablanca, Mohammed V Square, and the Sacred Heart Cathedral. The most impressive stop on this mini-tour is the Arab League Park, a grand urban garden fit for a prosperous metropolis. Bit by bit, I started to appreciate the beauty and grandeur of Casablanca. Since this was New Year’s Eve, I thought it was only appropriate to splurge just a little bit with a seafood dinner at Taverne du Dauphin. This no-frill neighborhood restaurant is just across from my hotel and is just the kind of traditional restaurant that I was after.

Day 16 - Casablanca

Today is my only full day in Casablanca, and I am determined to make the best of it. I woke up at dawn to make it in time for the first guided tour of the Hassan II Mosque. The mosque is the largest in Morocco and has the second tallest minaret in the world. For most visitors, this monumental landmark may be the sole reason they stop in Casablanca. So you could imagine my shock when I learned that the mosque was closed on New Year’s Day. The closure was news to me and all the visiting big bus tour groups. After hanging around for an hour, I realized there was no point sulking. Let’s see the rest of Casablanca!

A twenty-minute cab ride brought me to the district of Habbous. Habbous Quarter is one of the city's older neighborhoods and is home to the Royal Palace of Casablanca. Sadly, all of Morocco’s royal palaces are closed to the public, and I could barely get a peek at the front entrance. Conceived at the start of the French Protectorate period, the architecture and urban planning of the neighborhood are a beautiful synthesis of French and Moroccan cultural traditions. Despite its tourist popularity, there are no hotels or much tourist infrastructure. I just found that to be very surprising.

The Art Deco architecture of Casablanca.

I returned to the city center to feast on a very un-Moroccan lunch: Kentucky Fried Chicken! While not amazing, it was still much better than the fast-food fried chicken back in the United States. Afterward, I spent time admiring the faded glory of grand Art Deco buildings from the French Protectorate period. A visit to the nearby Central Market livened up an otherwise economically depressed area. The highlight of the neighborhood is trying out the fresh-shucked oyster for 10 dirhams apiece. It is probably the best oyster I ever had.

Fresh from Marrakesh, the Medina of Casablanca could be anticlimactic. However, quite a few interesting synagogues and mosques are still worth visiting. And compared to Marrakesh, vendors here are less aggressive toward foreign tourists. Many contemporary murals are sprinkled across the narrow lanes, which add youthful energy to the old neighborhood. As the sky cleared, I returned to the Hassan II Mosque for better photos. I ended up lingering around the mosque well past the sunset. Even though I still couldn’t get inside, I could still appreciate the majesty of the structure and how important this building meant to the people of Casablanca.

Day 17- Casablanca - New York

I set my alarm for 3:30 am to catch the seven o’clock flight back to New York. Thankfully, the pre-arranged taxi was on time and whisked me off to the airport. As you can imagine, there wasn’t any traffic at that hour. The outskirts of Casablanca reminded me a little bit of Los Angeles, with suburban sprawls and modern hotel chains. I arrived at the airport well ahead of time, which was quite a waste since most of the airport concessions had not opened. Every passenger on our flights seemed to congregate around the one open Starbucks.

As usual, my American-bound flight is subjected to additional TSA-mandated security screening. It caused quite a long backlog at the gate and prompted confusion about exactly what the security agents were looking for. Sadly, all these extra security measures meant American flights are usually assigned to the least desirable section of the airport. Well, goodbye, Morocco and I hope to see you again soon.

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