Chambord - The Grand Daddy of Châteaus
With hundreds of châteaus in the Loire Valley, planning a short visit will be a tall order, but I suspect most would visit Chmabord, the grandest French château and one of the country’s most well-known landmarks. While most travel experts may prefer Cheverny or Chenonceau for a more intimate château experience, I was completely in awe of Chambord's architectural grandeur. Its size and the surrounding landscape epitomize the château building craze of Renaissance France. Having visited about a dozen châteaus in the region, Château de Chambord has my vote for Loire’s most worthwhile destination.
It was good to travel during the shoulder season.
From our home base in Amboise, it was a fifty-minute ride through the idyllic countryside to Chambord. We were fortunate to have magnificent weather on this day, so we arrived at the opening time. Chambord’s estate is enormous; upon entering the estate, it took us over five minutes to drive to the visitor parking lot near the château. Maybe because it was the shoulder season, there was no line for tickets, and we almost had the whole place to ourselves. When I saw the château’s fanciful silhouette, I knew we were in for something special.
The map of Château de Chambord.
No château is as grand as Chambord.
Chambord is mightily impressive by number. The château boasts 84 staircases, 440 rooms, and one chimney for every day of the year. It was honestly unlike any palaces or fortress I have ever seen. Like other châteaus in the region, Chambord served no defensive purpose and was conceived as a hunting lodge for the aristocracy. In Chambord’s case, it was commissioned by Francis I of France, who brought the Renaissance to France. Francis was a great patron of arts and letters, bringing many Renaissance artists from Italy, notably the ultimate master, Leonardo da Vinci. King Francis I was the one who brought the Mona Lisa into France!
Construction began in 1519 and ended in 1547. The design is commonly attributed to Italian architect Domenico da Cortona, who was brought to the French court by King Charles VIII. Most historians believe that his design was heavily modified later, first by Leonardo da Vinci and then by site supervisor Pierre Nepveu. With four round towers flanking four corners of a square, the château’s layout took inspiration from the keep of a military castle. Reflecting the Renaissance’s ideal of perfection, the château is nearly symmetrical around the central axis. However, the forest of elaborate chimneys provides subtle variations to the otherwise monumental structure.
No château is as grand as Chambord.
The dressage rehearsal for the daily equestrian show.
Rehearsal for the daily equestrian show.
The visitor’s entrance to the château was from the southeast. A grand esplanade accompanied the front approach. The entire ensemble seems to come straight from a fairytale. To top it off, many equestrian riders in Renaissance-style outfits practiced dressage for the daily equestrian shows at the nearby royal stable. This was a wonderful reminder that all these were built for the royal hunting trip. However, on a more practical level, the purpose of this monumental project is to demonstrate the wealth and power of the French crown. The king wanted to show off his impressive “hunting lodge” to foreign ambassadors and political rivals.
Mom and dad are armed with their individual Histopad.
The forest of chimneys and roof lanterns creates an interesting architectural space.
Among Chambord’s most unique features is its innovative double-spiral staircase. Two staircases stack on top of one another and never intersect. This ingenious design allows traffic to be separated by direction. Many believe this design came from Leonard da Vinci, who resided in Amboise then. However, most scholars considered the claim speculative as there were similar contemporary designs, such as Orvieto’s Pozzo di San Patrizio by Antonio da Sangallo the Younger. That said, Chambord’s spiral staircase is the most impressive example.
The vast ground of Chambord could be accessed without admission charge.
Leonardo da Vinci purportedly designs Chambord’s double-spiral staircase.
The staircase has beautiful balustrades and a slope gentle enough to be climbed on horseback. It takes visitors three to four levels up to the rooftop. The staircase is topped with a three-story roof lantern, which is an architectural masterpiece in its own right. The staircase continues two levels up but is inaccessible to visitors. The upper level of the lantern is graced with flying buttresses decorated with patterns of black diamonds and circles and King Francis’s royal coat of arms featuring a fire-breathing salamander. The whole roof lantern was a trophy fit for a king.
The central roof lantern is an architectural masterpiece of its own.
Francis’s fire-breathing salamanders could be spotted everywhere throughout the building.
We were lucky that Chambord had only just completed a three-year restoration of six roof lanterns a few months ago. What was incredible about the Chambord was that this amazing roof lantern was drawn out in the forest of flamboyant chimneys. While functional, these chimneys have exaggerated heights and distinctive geometric patterns. Many have similar features but are just different enough to be individually unique. The architect within me was trying to work out a discernable pattern/rhythm. They appear random yet create such a cohesive architectural ensemble. Disney should replicate it for their newest theme park.
Charmbord’s forest of chimneys is incredible.
Charmbord’s forest of chimneys is incredible.
The walk along Chambord’s parapet was an amazing experience.
The rooftop access hugs along the entire perimeter of the roof, providing panoramic views of the château’s immense hunting grounds. Like the Palace of Versailles, Chambord is surrounded by massive reflecting pools and large formal gardens. Unbeknownst to most visitors, Chambord's estate is France's largest enclosed forest. At more than 13,500 acres, today's estate is large enough to encircle medieval Paris. Chambord’s perimeter walls are more than twenty miles long. Since Francis I’s reign, two-meter-tall walls and a contingent of captaincies have protected the premises.
Because the forest is fully enclosed, it inadvertently becomes a testing ground for a unique ecosystem. Among the most iconic fauna are stags, which have been inhabited here since the 17th century. The abundance of stags and wild boars may be why the king chose this spot for his hunting lodge. To help manage the population, organized hunts still take place in Chambord regularly. The conservation of the ecosystem also extends to its wetlands. For example, twenty forest marshes are drained and refilled everywhere to guard against forest encroachment.
The ornamental gardens of Chambord with a vanishing vista.
Wait, isn’t this the logo of Jägermeister?
A collection of hunting medallions.
Chambord’s fenced-in estate offers scientists a unique opportunity to study a closed lowland forest ecosystem. The researchers are particularly interested in how sustainable hunting is essential in managing Europe’s wilderness. Visitors can explore parts of its vast grounds by bicycle, and electric golf carts are available for rent. Chambord provides a handy brochure with recommending pathways. Dotted across the forest are many observation platforms where visitors and researchers can spy on wildlife. Like Versailles, the vast ground is open to the public, so it is not uncommon to see locals jogging or having a picnic here. For a more leisurely experience, there is also the option to rent motorized boats for personal excursions around the château’s moats and canals.
The Renaissance-era map of Chambord.
Much of Chambord’s vast interior rooms are bare.
Chambord’s large windows make it difficult to heat during the winter months.
Chambord’s splendor is undisputed. So, surprisingly, the king barely used it during his relatively long reign. He spent just seven weeks here on half a dozen short hunting trips. Most historians believe Chambord was never intended for a long stay. let along a residential palace. Despite its 364 chimneys, the cavernous rooms and large windows made the heating very costly. The king considered the place too draughty to be comfortable. Some believe he did not have the financial resources to fit out the inside. Unlike most other Loire châteaus, the interiors seemed unfinished with rough tuffeau stone. There are few decorations besides the king’s insignia and crowned fire-breathing salamanders.
Chambord’s large windows make it difficult to heat during the winter months.
Since much of the interior was barren, the king had to bring everything, including furniture, tapestries, and kitchen utensils. All the furniture was designed to be assembled and disassembled quickly during this period. Looking closely, you can see that most pieces on display here have hinges and removable dowels. The massive rugs and wall tapestries were also transported to provide quick decoration and warmth. It took an entourage of two thousand to furnish the place before the king’s arrival. It was a massive logistical undertaking.
There are 365 fireplaces, remember?
Henri, Count of Chambord, was offered the French throne in 1870.
Since the king was here so infrequently, there has never been an effort to establish a permanent village next to Chambord. It made supplying the château much more challenging without a permanent support system. That said, it still seems mad that he bothered to spend this much on Chambord without making more effort on the interior. The kitchen of this massive place seemed so barebone that it looked like a makeshift outdoor kitchen. I wonder how different it would be if he decided to set up his court here instead of Amboise. When the king died unexpectedly in 1547, Chambord was practically abandoned for eighty years.
Everything from the furniture to the kitchen is supposed to be mobile.
The bed chamber of Louis XIV has been fully restored to its glory.
The antique heating stove of Chambord.
Fast-forward to 1639. King Louis XII gifted Chambord to Gaston, Duke of Orléans, who spent a considerable personal fortune restoring it to a habitable state. Today's Chambord matured under King Louis XIV, the infamous Sun King. He briefly set up his court in Chambord on nine occasions while hosting lavish galas and hunting sessions from 1660 to 1685. He built a massive 1,200-horse stable to allow him to use Chambord for his epically large hunting entourage. Given his propensity toward grandeur and extravagance, it was unsurprising that Louis XIV initially took an interest in Chambord. Part of the château was renovated with permanent interior fitting and furnishing. A royal apartment was set up for the king and his future guests.
The bust of King Louis XIV.
Much of the surviving interior from the time of Louis XIV was sold off during the French Revolution.
Chambord is laid out in a Greek cross plan with a staircase in the center, so there is no one obvious ceremonial chamber that is appropriate for the Sun King. I could understand why he might prefer starting his palace/hunting lodge from scratch. Although Château de Vaux-le-Vicomte is often regarded as the direct inspiration for Versailles, I could not help wondering whether Louis XIV’s time in Chambord informed the design and construction of Versailles.
Today, the royal apartment has been renovated to the glorious days of Louis XIV. The contrast between the renovated apartment and the rest of the château was dramatic. The apartment was given to Louis’s father-in-law, King Stanislas Leszczynsk of Poland, who was in exile. An outbreak of malaria at the estate interrupted his residence at Chambord. The swampy conditions forced him to seek refuge in nearby villages several times until the proper channeling of the river was completed.
The chapel was built during the reign of Louis XIV.
When it comes to stained glass, simplicity is the key.
The spiral staircase leads to the chapel.
Like many other Loire châteaus, Chambord provides visitors with a personal HistoPad for a nominal fee. The tablet digitally recreates the rooms through time. The HistoPad is activated by scanning a QR code in the room or automatic sensors. This system provides historical context without the need for physical signage. With numerous language options, foreign visitors can enjoy the tour without the language barrier. As an architect, some of my favorite exhibits at the château pertain to the construction methods, including how the masons were paid by etching insignia on each block of stones.
Everything about Chambord is on a different scale.
Fortunately, Chambord was spared destruction during the French Revolution. The revolutionary authority auctioned off many original furniture and floorboards. According to contemporary accounts, the wood-paneled doors were removed and thrown into the fireplaces to keep the rooms warm during the auction. For a few decades, Chambord was essentially abandoned. It remained so until Napoleon gifted it to Marshal Berthier in 1809 as a reward for his service. I can only wonder what the financial headache must be to inherit a property like Chambord.
The existing garden was recreated based on the documented design of the 17th century.
Chambord may draw a big crowd, but there is enough room for everyone.
The existing garden was recreated based on the documented design of the 17th century.
Subsequent restoration efforts were shortlived despite the best intentions. By the 1830s, the estate once again fell into great disrepair. The château was used as a field hospital during the Franco-Prussian War. Before the outbreak of World War II, collections from many museums of northern France were transported to Chambord for safekeeping. Chambord is regarded as the largest art repository in France. Lourve’s iconic works, such as Delacroix’s Liberty Guiding the People and Da Vinci’s Mona Lisa, were hidden here. In response to Nazi’s advances, the arts were moved several times.
After the war, the French state fully owned Chambord and began the long-awaited restoration. In the 20th century, Chambord became one of the most well-known monuments in France and quickly became a major tourist destination. The château was inscribed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1981, well before the other Loire châteaus joined the listing. Judging from the tour bus parking lots on the estate, Chambord is the most visited château in the Loire Valley for good reasons.
This view would never get old.
Today’s Chambord offers are well-organized and meticulously maintained. Although the sheer size of Chambord is overwhelming, it would make a perfect day trip. While most visitors spend half a day here, my parents spent more than nine hours here. If not for the fact that we could not get a reservation at the dinner restaurant on the estate, we might very well be spending a few more hours there. Supposedly, the château was illuminated in the evening, and there were magnificent sounds and light shows in the summer months.
I wish we had more time to explore the vast ground of the château.
This view would never get old.
One activity I wished I had planned for was hot-air balloon rides. Hot-air balloons are a very popular activity in the Loire Valley. Although I did look into it, it was a little difficult to commit to a date or time because of the unpredictable weather this time of the year. As the balloon ride could be arranged near many major châteaus, Chambord would be a good choice given its flamboyant exterior and the size of its ground. I could only imagine how amazing it would be to gaze down at all the fairytale chimneys and roof lanterns. But even without being on the balloon ride, to see all the colorful balloons floating past the château is a sight to behold.
It was a fabulous day out at Chambord.
For anyone with a little more budget, it would be worthwhile to consider spending a night at Relais de Chambord. Opened just a few years ago, the hotel was tastefully designed by renowned French architect Jean-Michel Wilmotte and is a stone’s throw away from the château. It is the only hotel on the ground of Chambord and probably the nicest place in this part of the Loire Valley. They even have a houseboat on Château’s canal. I would have been magical to experience Chambord at sunrise.
