Mont-Saint-Michel - The Spirit of France

With almost 80 million foreign tourists annually, France is the most visited country in Europe year after year. While no one would be surprised that Paris is the number one attraction, few could name the second-most visited place in the country. Is it the port city of Marseille or the resort town of Nice? Nope! It turned out to be Mont-Saint-Michel, a tidal island straddling the border of Normandy and Brittany. With only twenty-five permanent residents, the tiny island of just 1.5 square miles received almost three million visitors annually. Mont-Saint-Michel is the kind of place that requires no advertising. Like everyone else, I was instantly intrigued when I saw a picture online. It was unlike any other island I have ever seen.

Mont-Saint-Michel is a national icon of France.

While planning our family trip through the Loire Valley, I debated whether I should detour to Mont-Saint-Michel. It was quite a detour from our last stop in the Loire, and we would only stay for one night in Normandy before driving back to Paris. But given this may be the last time my parents visited France, it would be now or never. I wish we had a few extra days to visit the nearby Saint-Malo and Bayeux. Ultimately, we are so glad we made the effort. Mont-Saint-Michel is deservingly the national treasure of France.

An Elusive island

From the moment we crossed the border of Normandy, we could feel the change in scenery. We could taste the salinity in the air, and the architecture appears more “Celtic” than the “French.” Despite the flatness of the landscape, there is a rigged spirit to this region that is difficult to describe. About half an hour before arrival, the island's silhouette emerged from the horizon like a giant iceberg. No matter how many pictures I had seen of Mont-Saint-Michel online, I was still mesmerized by the sight.

Mont-Saint-Michel is beautiful under any weather.

Being a popular destination, Mont-Saint-Michel has no shortage of tourist accommodations. Initially, figuring out the best place to stay overnight was challenging. While a handful of inns and traditional guesthouses are located on the island, their night rates are high, and they all have horrible guest reviews. Luckily, about a dozen large chain hotels are at the end of the causeway, which connects the island to the mainland. After much research, we snatched two affordable rooms at Hôtel Mercure Mont Saint-Michel. The Mercure was more than adequate since no one comes here for luxurious hotel rooms.

Most of the hotels are within the limited traffic zone, but there was no instruction for those with reservations on getting past the unmanned entry gate. By the time we arrived at the hotel, it was already past the sunset, so I made a beeline to the observation platform, hoping to glimpse a glorious sunset view over Mont-Saint-Michel. Sadly, the overcast sky obscured the magnificent colors of the sunset. I was even more disappointed with the quality of the island’s nightime illumination.

The flood control gate at the mouth of Couesnon River

The early morning mist adds to the unique ambiance of this place.

After a restful night, I woke up early to catch the sunrise over the island. Although there was mist in the air, the warm glow from the rising sun was magical on the dramatic architecture of the island. The viewing platform is above the floodgates at the mouth of the Couesnon River and is a popular spot with professional photographers. I spent half an hour staring at this observation platform's beautiful scenery unfolding before me. At around half past seven, I returned to the hotel to meet my family for a leisurely breakfast at the hotel restaurant. It seemed like most of the guests here were on bus tours and had a very early start to the day.

The weather was perfect to walk to the island.

To get to Mont-Saint-Michel, we could take the free shuttle bus from the hotel or take a walk. The temperature was perfect for a stroll, and we had a lovely blue sky. We could not have asked for better weather. Since the shuttle would not make any intermediate stop on the causeway, approaching on foot allowed visitors to appreciate the majesty of the tidal island. The 1.4-mile walk was flat, and it took us about forty minutes to reach the island, with plenty of photo stops along the way.

Past the halfway point, the earthen causeway turns into a modern elevated walkway. Before 2012, visitors could drive and park at the foot of the island. The traffic congestion was undoubtedly an environmental concern and a notable blemish on Mont-Saint-Michel’s historical authenticity. The bridge also allows access to emergency vehicles for all but a few hours each month with the high tides experienced during full moons. To this day, visitors are still encouraged to check the tide schedule when planning their day.

Mont-Saint-Michels appears connected with the mainland from certain angles.

Unbeknownst to most visitors, constructing the new causeway and bridge is critical to preserving the delicate estuary ecosystem. For decades, the sediments of Couesnon River had been silting up the bay. When the new bridge was first proposed in the 1990s, the sediment from the river began silting up the bay due to the lower flow rate resulting from a dam. Geologists predicted that, without active intervention, the island would eventually be connected to the mainland in a few decades. The elevated access road helps increase the flow and allows sediment to be washed out to sea more easily.

The modern elevated roadway prevents silting of the bay.

The environmental benefits may be obvious, but that does not mean the alteration was without controversy. Local businesses lamented the more restrictive access policy, and some consider the bridge too modern. Designed by Austrian-born architect Dietmar Feichtinger, the bridge is intended to be as unintrusive as possible. The curving path allows visitors to appreciate the island from different angles. Our visit coincided with the low tide, so only small tidal pools were near the bridge. We looked forward to seeing the tides coming in later in the day.

The views toward the mudflat are like an abstract painting.

Many visitors would walk onto the mudflat during low tide. Given the good weather and low tide, we were happy to join in. Luckily, the weather was perfect, and we could walk without taking off our shoes. We noticed quite a few large groups were trekking across the mudflats, and a few were doing so on horseback. It was not until later that I learned that many private companies organized these guided treks. The professional guides provide safety instructions and explain the complex ecology of the area. I was very tempted to follow them and wade into the water. The walk across the mudflat let us get up close and personal with the island’s impressive fortifications. This would be a good time to learn more about Mont-Saint-Michel’s unique and turbulent history.

Because of the island’s unique geography, Mont-Saint-Michel has always been easily defensible and a strategic outpost for Normandy. According to the legend, the archangel Michael appeared to the Bishop of Avranches in the early 8th century to instruct him to build a church on the island. Over the next few centuries, the island abbey was passed through various kingdoms and bishoprics. For a while, the island belonged to Brittany, a fact that some Britons still cite to claim Mont-Saint-Michel as their own. Couesnon River traditionally marked the border between Brittany and Normandy. Geologically, the island could be either Britton or Norman, depending on the historical flow. However, the island is firmly in Normandy in modern times.

Despite its ease of defense, Moun-Saint-Michel was besieged repeatedly but often stubbornly held on. During the Hundred Years' War, the island withstood repeated assaults while the English forces took over most of Normandy. The resistance turned this place into a symbol of French nationalism against foreign incursions. Unfortunately, the island could not hold off the terror of Nazi occupation. They used the island abbey as a lookout post. The Germans used the surrounding area to practice their invasion of Great Britain. They installed thousands of anti-landing spikes around the mudflats, nicknamed “Rommel’s Asparagus.”

Almost miraculously, the island was spared the ravage of modern warfare. Throughout the German occupation, Moun-Saint-Michel remained a tourist hotspot, but it was from Germany. After the Allied forces landed in Normandy, the Germans hastily retreated from the islands, leaving only a handful of exhausted soldiers behind. The island is officially “liberated” by a single American soldier, Freeman Brougher. Being a member of the army’s propaganda unit, Brougher brought two journalists to document the event. As a result, the details associated with the "liberation of Mont-Saint-Michel became known worldwide. Although there was no intense battle, the event significantly boosted the Allies’ morals.

Emergency vehicles were on stand by at the entrance of the island.

After the war, the island experienced a Renaissance; the population increased for the first time in centuries. The city thrived because of the tourism boom from the post-war prosperity. In 1979, Mont-Saint-Michel was inscribed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The island has recently been recognized as one of France's official starting points for the Camino de Santiago. A considerable effort was made to return the island as a premier pilgrimage destination. Since 2001, the great abbey has been administered by the Monastic Fraternities of Jerusalem.

What Is Authenticity?

We had the good fortune to visit in October, the shoulder season in France. The crowd should have been relatively tamed, so we were pretty unprepared for the crush of humanity inside. All visitors had to pass through the King’s Gate, and everyone followed the same street toward the summit. Objectively speaking, Mont-Saint-Michel is likely the most touristy town in France. At its peak, more than a thousand called the island home. With just two dozen residents now, there isn’t much “authentic culture” to speak of.

Mont Saint-Michel is busy with tourists, even outside the high season.

One of the most common complaints about Mont-Saint-Michel is how touristy it is. Plenty of souvenir shops along the main drag sell cheap magnets, calendars, and poorly designed T-shirts. These tacky shops look particularly jarring compared to the beautifully preserved medieval architecture. Although the authorities did a great job regulating shops’ signage, there wasn’t much they could do about the merchandise. Very few shops bother to preserve the ground floor’s historic interiors. The fluorescent lighting certainly does not help. I hope these mediocre shops will gradually be replaced as travelers become more culturally aware.

Not surprisingly, the dining options on the island are pretty abysmal. As I was researching potential lunch or dinner options, it did not take me long to realize that almost every restaurant or cafe here has horrible reviews on Google. Few places have better than four-star ratings, with visitors complaining about rude service and overpriced food. With limited real estate and competition, few places bother to provide value or decent service. Without reservation, we struggled to find a table at formal restaurants, including ones with horrible reviews. I definitely would not call Mont-Saint-Michel a foodie destination. We ended up at a nondescript cafe called La Coquille, a surprisingly decent choice for a simple sandwich.

As of October 2023, La Mère Poulard’s omelette costs €45 per serving.

If one were to nominate a “worthy” dining establishment, it would likely be La Mère Poulard. Founded by Anne Boutiaut Poulard, the restaurant is most known for its unique and very pricy omelets. The omelets are made with butter and crème fraîche, often described as having a soufflé-like texture. Legend has it that Mrs. Poulard quickly whipped up the omelet to feed the pilgrims waiting for the high tide to recede. The omelets are still cooked in copper vessels over the wood fire. It is widely regarded as the gastronomic symbol of the island.

While most travelers enjoy the taste of the famous omelet, it gained international notoriety as the most expensive egg dish in the world. The price was €45 per omelet, and they do not permit takeout orders or sharing at the table. Christine and I debated whether it would be worthwhile but ultimately decided against it. Spending that sum for omelets seems unconscionable. Plus, getting in without a reservation might be impossible anyway.

Oddly enough, no other restaurants here bothered to copy the recipe and cash in. Because Mont-Saint-Michel is a symbol of French nationalism, all major candidates for the French presidency would make a pilgrimage to the island. President Nicolas Sarkozy even launched his 2007 presidential bid here. It is a commonly circulated superstition that if a candidate chooses not to eat Poulard’s famous omelet on their trip here, the person will go on to lose the election. That might be the only instance where the €45 price tag is justified.

With sky-high prices and impatient shopkeepers, one can’t help feeling this place is just an enormous tourist trap with more trouble than it’s worth. However, we should consider that this island has always attracted tourists and pilgrims from far and wide for centuries. Even in medieval times, pilgrims would have been greeted similarly with souvenir stands and overpriced eats. Ironically, I would say Mont-Saint-Michel’s heritage is alive and well. I doubt anything would change that in the foreseeable future.

True to medieval townscape, the island's main drag is quite claustrophobic. The number of visitors only made the experience particularly unpleasant. Fortunately, a parallel route atop the ramparts provides the much-needed breeze and magnificent vistas across the bay. Standing on the rampart, I could understand why the English force never captured this formidable fortress. This may be the most formidable-looking castle I have ever visited.

The Mount of Archangel Michael

No visit to Mont-Saint-Michel would be complete without a visit to the hilltop abbey. On this island, all roads lead to the abbey. As we approached the entrance ramp, my heart dropped. There was a long time outside, and it was already mid-afternoon. Without a prior reservation, I was nervous we might not have enough time before closure at 5 p.m. It would be a shame to come here and be denied entry. Fortunately, the line moved faster than anticipated, and we were in after just half an hour.

This may be the best-fortified abbey in the world.

According to the legend, archangel Michael appeared to Saint Aubert three times in 708 to instruct him to build an oratory on top of the island. During the reign of Charlemagne, the abbey enjoyed stability and prosperity as the emperor proclaimed Micahel as the patron of his empire. The island was briefly abandoned after a Viking conquest but was quickly reinhabited due to its superb defense. Subsequent monarchs showered the monastery with great wealth and privilege, leading to a decadent lifestyle among the monks. In the 11th century, King Lothair imposed the Benedictine rules here to bring order to the abbey.

Over the centuries, the abbey has progressively expanded. The massive abbey is a religious monument and an engineering triumph. The grand abbey church was constructed on the summit and would require a deep foundation to support such monumental construction. As a practicing architect, I know how difficult it would be to build on hilly terrain. I was gobsmacked that the builders could build an enormous church on the summit. Inside the church is a handsome collection of physical models outlining the physical evolution of the abbey. The grand architecture we see today was built upon centuries of previous construction.

The abbey church is unapologetically Gothic, with enormous windows and a soaring nave. However, the vestige of the Romanesque shell is evident. When a major fire broke out in the mid-19th century, the front two nave bays, now a forecourt, collapsed. The “temporary” facade is heavy and classically Romanesque. However, the fanciful wooden spire above the altar is the most fabulous architectural feat. Done in a neogothic style, the spire was added under the supervision of famous French architectural theorist Eugène Viollet-le-Duc in 1896. A gilded statue of Michael perches at the tip of the spire as if he is about to ascend to heaven.

The abbey church displays a plethora of religious artifacts associated with Archangel Michael.

Inside the abbey church are various religious artifacts associated with Archangel Michael, including tapestries, sculptures, and religious vestments. However, the exhibit's star has to be the reliquary containing the skull of Saint Aubert, the abbey’s founder. According to the legend, Michael grabbed Aubert’s head when he spoke to him for the final time. The saint’s finger allegedly left a hole in his skill. The golden reliquary holding the skull was recently relocated to Mont-Saint-Michel so that all the visitors could admire this “miraculous” wound. An enormous sculptural relief depicting this legend could be found in the abbey’s crypt.

The double colonnade of the abbey cloister.

Not surprisingly, the abbey church was filled with many tour groups, primarily French. While I could not understand the guides, I could feel the passion in their voices. Even though Month-Saint-Michel has been a pilgrimage center for over a thousand years, the abbey did not always receive the attention and care it warrants. The abbey complex was turned into a formidable prison on several occasions. Most notably, many high-ranking clergy of the Catholic Church were imprisoned there by the Republicans during the French Revolution, earning the abbey the nickname the “Bastille of the Sea.”

To most visitors, the most exquisite architectural space here is the cloister to the left of the main church. The cloister is situated at the periphery of the abbey complex to take advantage of the beautiful view out to the sea. Three arches on one side of the cloister give visitors a stunning vista. This is no doubt the most coveted photo spot in the abbey. The two sets of columns create an intricate interplay of light and shadow. This was not a shabby place for daily meditation. Unfortunately, many religious decorations here were destroyed during the French Revolution. The vandalism may be regrettable, but it made the space more interesting.

The tidal mudflat is an everchanging painting.

Just beyond the cloister is the refectory, the main dining hall for the monks. The cavernous space has a unique architectural illusion. The stained glass windows are recessed into a series of triangular niches. When one enters the room, the windows are hidden from sight. The entire space is softly illuminated without revealing any window. The design takes advantage of the thick walls of the fortification, which was quite an architectural inspiration for me. The self-guided route led us to grand spaces, including the Knights’ Hall and Armory. The most exciting room among them is the ossuary, which has an enormous wooden wheel. Dated. to 1820, the wheel was used to transport provisions and prisoners. This may be the largest winch wheel I have ever come upon.

Although none of the original furnishing or artworks survived, the handy audio guide did a wonderful job contextualizing the spaces. What differentiates this abbey from most is how different grand spaces stack and negotiate with each other spatially. A look at the floor plan reveals the architectural ingenuity. Amazingly, they managed to cram so many grand halls onto a tiny island. To me, Mont-Saint-Michel would probably make a better inspiration for Disney’s Cinderella Castle than Bavaria’s Neuschwanstein Castle.

I am surprised that the abbey did not have “histopad” like many Loire châteaus. The abbey may be very touristy, but it is still spacious enough for peaceful contemplation. A part of me can’t help thinking this abbey would make a kick-ass resort. Naturally, the tour ended at the gift shop. Being France's second most visited landmark, Mont-Saint-Michel naturally has a beautiful assortment of souvenirs. My parents, who typically don’t shop much, even picked up a few items for friends back home.

With a three-hour drive ahead of us, we had to depart the island well before sunset. As we walked along the ramparts, I was puzzled that the water level had barely changed throughout our visit. It turned out this day happened to be the astronomical low tide of the season. I recommend visitors check the monthly tidal schedule while planning their itinerary. Watching the high tide coming during your visit is supposed to be a highlight. After all, that is an iconic characteristic of Mont-Saint-Michel.

Disappointingly, the tide never materialized during our visit.

After a full day on the island, I agree that Mont-Saint-Michel is one of Europe's most unique landmarks. This place may be very touristy, but it still warrants the hassle and your time. Very few places condense so much history and architectural beauty in such a compact area. Whether you are a casual sightseer or a history buff, Mont-Saint-Michel will be a highlight of your trip. I would not hesitate for a return visit on my next trip to Normandy.

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