The Survival of Coptic Cairo

By all accounts, Cairo is not a particularly loveable city. This metropolis of twenty-two million is best known for controlled sprawl, chronic traffic jams, and air pollution. Most tourists visit the city because of its international airport, the Egyptian Museum, and the Great Pyramid of Giza, which is technically not even in the city’s proper. Even though Cario is a relatively safe city in terms of crime, few foreign visitors bother to explore the city the way we do in Casablanca or Mexico City. Except for the medieval neighborhood around Al-Mu'izz Street, Cairo is neither charming nor pedestrian-friendly. Based on my understanding, Cairo has many gated communities, so people from different socioeconomic spectrums don’t typically inhabit the same space.

As I researched the capital city, I noticed that one neighborhood, Coptic Cairo, kept popping up. After reading a quick description, I was instantly intrigued. For most Americans, the term “Coptic” is quite alien. Coptic is a distinct branch of the Oriental Orthodox Church based in Egypt. Those of us living in the West often forget that Christian sects extend beyond Catholicism and Protestantism. Eastern Orthodoxy is as old as the Catholic Church and is regarded as the custodian of Christian orthodoxy from the style of worship to theology.

While people might be familiar with the Russian or Greek Orthodox Church, Christian denominations of Africa are often forgotten in the West. Besides the Coptic Church, the Greek Orthodox Patriarchate of Alexandria and the Ethiopian Orthodox Tewahedo Church are two other major branches of Orthodox Christianity on the continent. Having visited Saint Catherine's Monastery in Sinai a few days prior, I was keen to visit the Coptic Quarter and learn more about the history of early Christianity on the continent.

The Greek Orthodox Church of Saint George.

The Coptic Quarter is one of the city's oldest parts of Cairo. Originally built by Persians, the settlement was called Babylon, which remained underdeveloped until the Roman conquest of Egypt. What made this early Christian settlement unique from others is its biblical association. According to the biblical consensus, the Holy Family stayed in this area during the Flight into Egypt to escape prosecution from King Herod of Jerusalem. Legend had it that Joseph learned in a dream that the king would order to have his son Jesus killed. He gathered his family and fled to Egypt, which was under the safety of the Roman Empire then.

The details of their journey are mentioned in the Gospel of Matthew. At the time of Jesus, more than a million Jews were already living in Egypt. Most historians agree on the historiography of the flight into Egypt, but other gospels curiously leave out this journey through Egypt. Naturally, the journey is particularly significant for Egyptian Christians. Coptic Christians built major pilgrimage churches at major stops on this trail over the centuries. But it was in Cario where the journey of Jesus was best documented.

Inside the Coptic Quarters is the 4th-century Church of Saints Sergius and Bacchus. The church is built atop the cave where the Holy Family sought refuge. The cave is quite deep and located under the altar. Whether Jesus sheltered here was perhaps moot; it was undoubtedly the holiest Christian site in Cairo. A tiny plaque at the cave's exit indicates that the Holy Family stayed there for three months. Still, the plaque did not elaborate on whether the family was forced to hide out here for those months.

The Church of Saints Sergius and Bacchus was built atop the cave where the Holy Family allegedly spent three months.

Part of my fascination with the Coptic Church comes from the fact that its leader is called the “Pope” as well. The founding of the Coptic Church is traced to Mark the Evangelist; the Coptic is regarded as the successor to Saint Mark, similar to the Catholic belief that the Bishop of Rome is the successor to Saint Peter. Similarly, the Coptic Pope is elected by and among an assembly of bishops upon the death of a Pope. And it is in the Church of Saints Sergius and Bacchus where the Pope is traditionally consecrated. This church is the Coptic equivalence of Rome’s Archbasilica of Saint John Lateran.

Rivaling the Church of Saints Sergius and Bacchus is Saint Virgin Mary's Coptic Orthodox Church, more commonly known as the “Hanging Church.” Constructed in the 3rd century, it is the most important church in Cairo and likely the first basilica-style church in Egypt. For over seven centuries, Popes have established their operations here, making this place the de facto headquarters of the Coptic Church. Religiously speaking, the Hanign Church is known for numerous Marian apparitions. Perhaps the most famous miracle here is the Moving of Mokattam Mountain.

In the tenth century, Pope Abraam was confronted by the Caliph, who demanded that he provide proof of the validity of Christian scripture. Fearing the fate of his church, he was praying at the Hanging Church when the Virgin Mary appeared to him. She instructed him that a man in a local market knew how to perform a miracle. The Pope met a tanner named Simon, who fit the physical traits described by Mary. Simon told the Pope to gather his priests and led the Caliph to the foothills of Mokattam Mountain for the miracle.

With everyone gathered around, Simon asked the Pope to pray "O Lord, have mercy" three times and, each time, make the sign of the cross over the mountain. Miraculously, the mountain split open and moved. The chasm was said to be large enough for sunlight to penetrate through. When the Pope turned around to find Simon, he had disappeared out of thin year. According to Coptic traditions, his disappearance act symbolizes the ultimate humility. Today, he is one of the most celebrated saints in Orthodox Christianity. In 1991, Simon’s remains were miraculously found inside a Coptic Cairo church. Even though the authenticity of the relics is debated by some experts, it is nevertheless an exciting discovery.

The miracle left the Caliph in awe. He immediately recognized the “correctness” of Christian teaching and granted the Copts permission to construct more churches in Cairo. Eventually, the Caliph converted to Christianity and relinquished his earthly powers for monastic life. Whether you believe the miracle or not, the unique geological features of Mokattam Mountain are worth checking out if you have a few extra days in Cairo. Located in the aptly named “Garbage City,” the mountain is home to the Cave Church of Saint Simon, nestled in the chasm created by the miracle.

Despite its religious significance, the Hanging Church is most known for its unique construction. The basilica is constructed above the gate of the Babylon Fortress. It was ordered by Roman Emperor Diocletian in the fourth century, and it stood at a strategic position where the Niles connected to the canal that provided vital links to the Red Sea. The basilica straddles across the two tower gates, with the nave straddles above the air. Because the modern street levels are about twenty feet higher, the church’s “hanging” effects are barely perceivable.

Nowadays, the Hanging Church does not appear to be all that “unusual-looking.” For quite some time, it has been colloquially known as the “Staircase Church,” as visitors must climb twenty-nine steps to enter. Fortunately, there are a few cutouts on the floor to let visitors appreciate its unique construction. I had no doubt they were put in at the urging of tour operators to placate tourists’ curiosity.

I find the beauty of the Hanging Church a wonderful synthesis of Islamic and Orthodox Christian architecture. Even though the church’s founding predated Islam, much of the architecture we see today was built after Islam’s takeover of Egypt. The Coptic Pope relocated from Alexandria as the political power shifted to Cairo after the establishment of Islam. To casual observers, the architectural motifs inside and outside the church differ from what you could find in Islam. From the geometric patterns of the iconostasis screen to the Mudéjar-style arches, one could easily mistake it for a mosque. The most striking element would be its marble pulpit, which resembles a minbar.

When we first entered the Coptic Quarter, I quickly noticed how the neighborhood seemed walled off from the rest of the city. There was a police barrier and checkpoint. My mind immediately compares it to all the Jewish ghettos you would find in Rome or Krakow. Modern Egypt is predominantly Muslim, but I was surprised to learn how roughly ten percent of Egyptians identify as Christian, mainly of Coptic Orthodox faith. Ten percent may not sound like a lot, but a Copt would say that there are more Coptic Christians in Egypt than Jews in Israel. But for whatever reason, the Coptic Church often flies under the radar on the glabal stage.

With the exception of a few crosses, the Coptic Quarters appear quite “islamic” at first.

The first thing I asked our tour guide, Adel, was whether the majority of Coptic Christians chose to live close to the Coptic Quarter or put their heads down in contemporary Egypt. According to Adel, Christians are protected against discrimination by law and play a pivotal role in modern Egypt. But knowing he is a professional tour guide dealing with foreign guests, I know I must take everything with a grain of salt. I did not take long to find numerous news articles and reports of anti-Christian violence in recent decades, particularly in the 21st century.

As a group, Coptic Egyptians are well-educated and successful in business and management. Many of Egypt’s wealthy are Coptic, and they run some of the biggest business conglomerates in the country. Historically, the Copts played an important role in the so-called “Arab Renaissance” during the late Ottoman period. They were the advocates for social reform and democracy. But most interestingly, they believed in a Pan-Arabic identity beyond religious tribalism. In the courtyard of the Hanging Church are many pictures of Coptic popes meeting various Arab leaders. The church is determined to defend its Arab identity in this volatile region.

Pictures of Coptic Popes meeting various Arab leaders.

Despite their best efforts, the Copts became increasingly isolated in the broader society. When Arab Spring first broke out in 2010, people in Egypt, both Muslim and Christian, were optimistic about the trajectory of the nascent movement. Coptic priests were front and center on the streets, demanding change and democratization. Ironically, the nation’s new-found political freedom led to the emergence of the Muslim Brotherhood, an overt Islamist party. With populist roots, the party exploited the long-simmering tension underlying Egyptian society. Christian churches were attacked and looted shortly after the party took power.

Even though President Mohamed Morsi made explicit statements extolling Coptic’s role in contemporary Egypt, his administration did little to dissuade supporters from committing the violence. Fearing for their physical safety, some Copts in more rural areas opted to emigrate to the Western countries. When the Muslim Brotherhood was topped by a military coup, the Coptic Christians breathed a sigh of relief. While most Egyptians bemoaned the military's outsized role in today’s Egypt, the Copts treasured the security brought by the current government.

Interestingly, Egypt’s religious tolerance technically extends to only the three Abrahamic religions. By law, Islam, Christianity, and Judaism are the only accepted religion for public worship. Acts of blasphemy are also punishable under the Egyptian Penal Code. Like in many other Islamic countries, conversions from Islam to other faiths are not recognized officially. Even Shia Muslims still face some discrimination to this day.

Our last stop in our whirlwind visit was the Ben Ezra Synagogue. According to some, this building marks the spot where an Egyptian princess found baby Moses flowing down the river. The synagogue has only just opened after more than a decade-long renovation. The security here is noticeably tighter, and photography is prohibited inside. Once the center of a thriving Jewish community, the synagogue is now more of a historical monument with no permanent congregation. Like so many other Muslim countries, the majority of Egyptian Jews emigrated after the establishment of Israel. However, an Israeli delegation would visit a few times a year, thus technically making it a functioning synagogue.

Considering the ongoing wars in Gaza, the presence of a “working” synagogue represents Egypt’s commitment to preserve the resemblance of religious diversity. Even though Egypt has its struggle with religious extremism, the country is an important player in the region. Cairo is arguably the center of the Arab world. Despite having fought Israel in two separate wars, Cairo is now one of the most diplomatic “allies” of Israel and the host of ongoing peace negotiations between Hams and Tel Aviv.

Most of the Coptic Quarter is closed to vehicular traffic.

Geographically, the Coptic Quarter is relatively small and insulated from the rest of the city. It is easily accessible by metro and can be explored without a guide. Although the area is very touristy, it retains its distinct Christian identity. We should all find solace in the fact that people of different faiths can coexist in this age of political and religious polarization. The survival of Coptic Cairo is nothing short of miraculous. I learned that all

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