Chile Through The Lense Of Old Santiago

Oh, Santiago! I don’t know how I feel about you. As the capital and the preeminent city, Santiago is difficult for visitors to Chile to avoid. Since all international flights arrive in Santiago, spending a few days exploring this dynamic city only makes sense. This city of six and a half million is best characterized by the enormous sprawl that seems to fill the entire valley. Santiago appears to have a mixed reputation among travelers. It has neither the glamour of Buenos Aires nor the scenic beauty of Rio de Janeiro. Some of the most common adjectives associated with Santiago include bland, uninspiring, and even stifling. However, I was determined to check it out myself to see whether there was a grain of truth.

Old Santiago does not look old at all at first glance.

As I researched places to stay, I was surprised that nearly all the international chain hotels are concentrated in a small strip along the Mapocho River, the cradle of Santiago. Although all my friends recommended staying on the trendy east side, I can’t help but gravitate toward Old Santiago and the charming neighborhood of Lastarria. This part of the city may not have the most stylish cafes or high-end hotels, but I would much rather appreciate the layered complexity of these established areas. Hotel Cumbres Lastarria offered us a handy and comfortable base for exploring the old town.

Our first impression of Old Santiago was the eerie silence. Since we arrived on a weekend, most businesses were closed, and very few restaurants were open beyond the immediate blocks around Plaza de Armas. The architecture and overall urban landscape feel oddly familiar to me. Santiago’s modern architecture and cityscape reminded me of Taipei, albeit with fewer billboards or scooters. Much to my disappointment, we did not encounter too many historical buildings like in Mexico City.

One of the first places we visited was Santa Lucía Hill, which is only a stone's throw away from our hotel. Situated between Lastarria and the historic center, this hill has long been a strategic location since pre-colonial times and was conquered in 1540 by conquistador Pedro de Valdivia. The date of the conquest coincided with the feast day of Saint Lucía, the place's namesake. Missionaries first used the hill for prayer during a smallpox outbreak. It was later fortified into a military station in the early 19th century. With the rise of Santiago's status, more and more structures and monuments were added to the hill, including an observatory and a cemetery.

*The Last of the Mohicans* by Nicanor Plaza.

In the late 19th century, the city transformed the hill into a promenade filled with ponds, fountains, and panoramic terraces. One of the most striking monuments on the hill is dedicated to Caupolicán, leader of the Mapuche people indigenous to central Chile. He was the most fearsome leader the Spanish encountered during the conquest of Chile, and he actually executed Pedro de Valdivia, the founder of Santiago. Entitled The Last of the Mohicans, this sculpture is the most notable work of Chilean sculptor Nicanor Plaza. He made the statue based on a historical illustration and had never seen or met a single indigenous person. The American embassy first commissioned the sculpture as a gift to Chile but was rejected by the American ambassador. It was ironic that the statue ended up at such a prominent spot on Santa Lucía Hill.

Today’s Santa Lucía Hill is an incredible amalgamation of seemingly random landmarks. The hill is completely fenced in, and the security guard posted at the entrance checks and registers the IDs of all visitors. The entrance may be free, but it felt isolated and poorly maintained. This was one of those times where a professional guide could bring the place to life. Perched on top of the summit are a fanciful castle pinnacle and platforms. The highlight for me was not the panoramic views but a plaque embedded in the rock nearby. It bears the inscription of a letter from Charles Darwin. The famed naturalist climbed this hill and offered glowing reviews of the scenery in the letters.

The gleaming interiors of the Church of San Francisco.

After an afternoon milling around the city center, we decided to sign up for a walking tour of Old Santiago the following morning. The tour started in front of the Church of San Francisco on the city’s main boulevard, Alameda. This unassuming church was the oldest surviving building in the city. Completed in 1622, the church was the headquarters of the Franciscan order and once marked the frontier of Santiago. Visitors could hardly see any other colonial-era buildings in the surrounding neighborhood. Because of seismic activities, very few buildings survived from the colonial time. It has been placed on the tentative list for UNESCO World Heritage Site.

The church has survived fifteen significant earthquakes over the past four centuries. Its structural resilience is due to a secret ingredient added to the mortar: egg white. This surprising ingredient was costly to incorporate and was used on one of the most prestigious buildings in Santiago. The church’s longevity makes it one of the most important symbols of Old Santiago. The interiors were recently restored, and the Baroque corbeled ceilings are a sight.

Our tour guide, Carlos, was perhaps the most memorable character we ever encountered on any trip. His flamboyant personality took us aback at first, but it did not take long for us to be taken by his no-holds-barred mannerisms. The first thing he said was that he would only accept “ethical tips,” and everybody on the tour needs to be ready to be robbed as he does not carry business liability for the operation. Carlos cautioned us not to be complacent about Chile’s reputation as one of the safest countries in this part of the continent. He also batted away the excessive political correctness, such as this idea that the time before the conquistadors was peaceful and prosperous. The Icans were brutal toward the local indigenous people.

Before we crossed Alameda to Old Santiago, Carlos spoke to us about how the economic fortune of Old Santiago has shifted in recent years. Those who might have paid attention to the news might remember the social unrest in 2019. The mass protest stemmed from decades of frustration over corruption, inequality, and the cost of living crisis. Naturally, the protestors gathered in and around Old Santiago, Chile's political and economic center. The prolonged demonstration and unrest prompted many businesses to depart for the new and shiny central business district to the east. The COVID-19 pandemic further severely affected the neighborhood’s prestige and economic vitality.

The pedestrianized streets of Old Santiago.

Like many countries, Chile was also not immune to the influx of refugees and economic migrants resulting from regional instability. In the past few years, the government has unwillingly taken in many migrants, primarily from Haiti, Peru, and Venezuela. On a per capita basis, Chile took in more migrants than Germany, the United States, or Jordan. Despite its best intentions initially, the country did not have the resources to accommodate the exploding population, and public opinion toward refugees turned sour quickly.

Without proper work authorization, many new migrants survive by engaging in the informal economy. The grand boulevards of Old Santiago are now lined with migrants selling household goods and small electronics on the street. It fundamentally altered the characters of the streets. Many businesses, including premier department stores and corporate headquarters, moved away. With so many vacant storefronts, the city center is now a shell of its former self. I could imagine how difficult it must be for Santiaguinos to see how the beautiful downtown has fallen into disrepair in such a short amount of time.

Because Santiago is Chile's preeminent city, it is a melting pot of immigrants from within the country. This means there is no predominant cultural identity here. A group of influential families historically controlled Santiago, which is reflected in the architecture of Old Santiago. After Chile’s independence in the mid-19th century and a major earthquake, these families brought French architects to rebuild the city. The Beaux-Arts style was all the rage at the time. The grand civic architecture here is similar to that in Buenos Aires and Montevideo. The most splendid among them is the Santiago Stock Exchange. Designed by Emile Jéquier, the building spared no expense and all the construction materials are shipped from Europe and North America.

The Santiago Stock Exchange may be the most beautiful building in Santiago.

Just a block away from the stock exchange is a little street called Nueva York. The street is named after New York and represents the optimism of pre-war Chile. The street is crowned with an impressive office tower called Edificio Ariztía. Not only was this the first skyscraper of Santiago, but it was also directly inspired by New York’s Flatiron Building. It is easy to imagine this was the most prestigious corporate address back then. At the other end of the street is Club de la Unión, another imposing edifice of the golden age of Santiago. Despite vacating the building years ago, the social club that owns the building still keeps it in meticulous condition. It was as if they expected this hiatus to be only temporary.

A few blocks away from the stock exchange is Santiago’s political center: La Moneda Palace and Plaza de la Constitución. Originally a mint, this neoclassical palace has been the seat of the President of Chile since 1845. It may be modest by European standards, but it conveys a sense of stability and dignity. Carlos was eager to point out that the presidential palace is not near the Plaza de Armas with the Metropolitan Cathedral. It supposedly symbolizes Chile as a secular constitutional republic. Surrounding the squares are government ministries, the central bank, and the governor’s office for the capital region.

Even though Chile is often regarded as one of South America's most politically stable nations, it does not mean much. The country has had its fair share of political turmoil in the last fifty years. The most infamous episode was the coup d'état in 1973. With tacit support of the United States, the Chilean military overthrew the democratically elected leftist president, Salvador Allende. Led by General Augusto Pinochet, the coup was swift and well-organized. The military quickly cut off most means of communication. However, Allende managed to broadcast his farewell address from La Moneda on Radio Magallanes, the sole radio network yet to be seized. With gunfire ringing in the background, his stirring speech was forever imprinted in the soul of the Chileans.

On the northeastern corner of the plaza is a statue of President Allende. While his radical lefist politics were divisive, no one could dispute his legitimacy and how his demise was almost a death sentence of Chilean democracy. When Allende realized there was no way for him to retain power, he committed suicide in his office. Allegedly, his weapon of choice was an automatic rifle given by fellow leftist Fidel Castro. His death was not only tragic but also a stain on Chile and the United States. The dictatorship of Pinochet lasted fifteen years and left a profound impact to this day.

When the current president, Gabriel Boric, assumed office in 2022, he paid tribute to Allende. However, not all Chileans viewed Pinochet favorably. Some considered Allende’s overt socialist policies, such as nationalizing major industries, to be by no means universally popular. In his attempt to bring more equity for ordinary Chileans, the economy battled hyper-inflation and price control. His no-holds-barred brand of politics quickly alienated those skeptical of his policies. Disagreement with the United States ultimately led him to pursue a closer relationship with the Soviet Union.

Despite all the misgivings, almost everyone agrees that his death was a true tragedy. I wished we had more time in Santaigo to visit the Museum of Memory & Human Rights. This state-of-the-art museum documents the events and the effects of the dictatorship. Carlos rated it as one of his favorite museums in the city. However, he suggested reading about Pinochet to get the most out of the visit. I would put it on my list for our next visit.

This area of Old Santiago is filled with Chile’s many public institutions, such as the Palace of the Courts of Justice and the Palace of the National Congress of Chile. As a symbol of wealth and power, the grand neoclassical palace is surrounded by a lush garden filled with exotic plants from around the world. Interestingly, Pinochet dissolved the parliament in Santiago, and the new parliament was moved to the seaside city of Valparaiso. It was not until a few years ago that the parliament began to relocate some offices back. It would be a shame for such a beautiful building to be vacant.

For most visitors, Old Santiago may be synonymous with Plaza des Armes. The grand square has the typical design found throughout Spain’s colonial empire. Surrounding the square are the city’s main historic monuments, including the Central Post Office and the Royal Court Palace. Chief among them is the Metropolitan Cathedral of Santiago. This impressive structure is the fifth structure that occupies this site. Earthquakes and fires destroyed the previous cathedrals. Curiously, the cathedral did not have the special egg white mortar. The building is a grand edifice to Spanish Baroque, among the most spectacular in South America. According to Carlos, Chileans may be proud of its secular republic, but the country remains a pretty conservative on most social issues.

The Baroque splendor of the Metropolitan Cathedral of Santiago.

Overall, the atmosphere at Plaza de Armes was convivial. Although there were plenty of tourists, it was clear that the plaza was very popular with locals. The square had plenty of street performers and vendors. Just as I thought I should return later for an evening stroll, Carlos quickly warned us that Old Santiago is a no-go zone after dark. He pointed to a nearby statue of Saint James and told us that even Santiago could not provide safety after dark. Considering the grand architecture around us, it was sad that the city could not capitalize on such an excellent urban center more. Carlos also used this opportunity to warn us against visiting the nearby Santiago Central Market. He recounted that so many of his previous guests were either robbed or stabbed there. His precaution certainly put all of us on apart for the remainder of the trip.

The central fountain of Plaza de Armas is dedicated to Simón Bolívar, the Liberator.

One of the newest additions to the square is an eye-catching Monument to the Indigenous People. The statue depicts the broken face of a Mapuche man. Although the monument is meant to commemorate the bravery of the indigenous people, it was controversial from the start. Perhaps by design, the memorial was inargurate on the 500th anniversary of Christopher Columbus’s arrival in the Americas. Some consider it an insensitive coincidence, while others believe it an effective critique of Spanish colonialism. At the opposite corner of the square is a massive equestrian statue of Pedro de Valdivia, the conquistador founder of Santiago. It would have been interesting if the two monuments actually stare off at each other.

The equestrian statue of Pedro de Valdivia, the founder of Santiago.

The best stop in the plaza was the Museum of National History of Chile. The museum is located in Real Audience, which hosted the first National Congress of independent Chile and was once the seat of the national government. The free museum has a small and concise collection of historic artifacts, primarily from the colonial era. The highlight was the original Chilean flag on which Chile's independence was sworn. Like most Americans, we knew little about the Chilean struggle for freedom. Although all Chileans are very proud of the independence, most do not hold animus toward Spain today. Like Carlos mentioned, their original Incan overlords were more brutal than their Spanish successors.

The Battle of Chacabuco, a decisive event during the Chilean War of Independence.

Although the museum focuses on Chile’s colonial history, a few galleries are devoted to the country's recent history, including Pinochet’s dictatorship. I was especially interested in Chile’s conflicts with its neighbors, especially the Pacific Wars against Peru and Bolivia. I have always been fascinated by the internal politics within the continent. Chile may not be as unpopular as Argentina, but it seems to have strained relationships with all its neighbors. It was interesting to see how each country interpreted the same conflict.

One of the most memorable exhibit items was the throne of Arturo Alessandri, who served as Chile’s president for three non-consecutive terms. The real intrigue was the taxidermy of his beloved Great Dane, Ulk. The handsome canine was frequently photographed with the president and became an unofficial symbol of Alessandri’s presidency. The first presidential pet was an omnipresence at La Moneda Palace. Ulk was well known for interrupting official businesses. Some historians even regard him as the most presidential pet in history.

Among all the museums in Santiago, Carlos proclaimed the Chilean Museum of Pre-Columbian Art to be the best. Compared to other art museums around Santiago, this would be one devoid of Spanish colonialism's influences. It would be the most worthwhile museum for those with limited time in Santiago. Because our initial visit coincided with the Christmas holiday, we had to defer our visit until the last day of our trip. After getting off the plane from Patagonia, we had just two hours to check this place out. Our short visit certainly could not do the place justice.

Chemamull wood statues were the grave markers of important individuals

The real motivation behind our visit was the museum’s collection of Incan quipu. Quipu, or khipu, was the only form of writing in the Incan Empire and consisted entirely of a web of knotted cords. Because of Brian’s background in writing study, he was fascinated by this unique form of writing and record keeping. The enduring mystery of quipu was reason enough to pay a visit. I later discovered that the museum was the brainchild of Chilean architect Sergio Larraín García-Moreno. I am not at all surprised that this is one of the most beautiful museum I have ever visited.

Due to Chile’s vast geography, the country’s indigenous heritage is varied and expansive. One highlight is its impressive collection of pre-Columbian textiles. Andes’s arid climate in the north was especially ideal for textile conservation, providing a massive treasure trove of unique artifacts. The oldest textile in the collection is more than three thousand years old. The brightly colored feathered mummy false heads were among some of the most morbid artifacts I ever came across.

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Chile Through The Lense Of Old Santiago

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Chile Itinerary - Winter 2024