Chile Itinerary - Winter 2024 — Tuljak! Travel Blog

After visiting Peru last year, we realized we had done ourselves a disservice by not exploring South America more. Unfortunately, crime and safety are a concern on this continent. While I have a relatively high tolerance for insecurity, picking a “safe” country to visit could reduce stress in trip planning. Chile and Uruguay are regarded as South America's safest and most stable nations. As much as Uruguay intrigued us, Chile offers better infrastructure and more blockbuster sites. From the bustling metropolis of Santiago to the desolate landscape in Atacama, Chile has so much to offer for first-time visitors.

The Neptune Fountain of Santiago’s Santa Lucía Hill.

However, planning a trip to Chile was more complicated than I imagined. Because of Chile's unique geographical shape, traveling between regions involves plane rides. During a two-period, we took eight separate flights. That meant separate car rentals and lots of time wasted in regional airports. This was the most exhausting trip I have ever taken, but it was all worth the effort. Other than Russia, China, and the United States, Chile might be the only country where you could get from a desert to a fjord with a domestic flight.

Day 1 - Newark - Atlanta - Santiago de Chile

The red-eye flight was brutal, and we were both extremely fatigued when we landed in Santiago at six a.m. The line for passport control was long, and it took us over an hour to enter the country. Fortunately, the airport was beautiful and made a good impression on visitors. Because it was early Sunday morning, there was barely any traffic. It took us only fifteen minutes to arrive at our hotel in the historical Lastarria neighborhood. Since our room wouldn’t be ready until mid-afternoon, we jumped on the opportunity to shower in their gym and take a quick half-hour power nap before venturing into the city.

Even though we knew this was the height of summer in Chile, we were still woefully unprepared for the near triple-digit temperature. Our first stop was Santa Lucía Hill, just a block from the hotel. This iconic rocky outcrop is one of the city’s most famous parks, filled with historical fortifications, memorials, and plaques. Visitors are awarded a panoramic view of Santiago, including the iconic Gran Torre Costanera. To seek refuge from the intense sun, we searched for lunch. That eventually led us to the main square, Plaza de Armas. Lining the square are rows of lunch spots selling chacarero, Chile’s iconic sandwich. We ultimately settled in at El Rincón Del Portal and actively overlooked the caloric intake for this meal.

After lunch, we stopped by the nearby Santiago Metropolitan Cathedral and the National History Museum. I was glad both sites were free to enter, especially given how little English was included. By then, we both felt exhausted and decided to check into our hotel room and freshen up. We emerged two hours later to take in the relaxed ambiance of Lastarria. In the afternoon, the streets were inundated with artists and young urbanites selling their works and collections. The book fair at the nearby Centro Gabriela Mistral only added to the buzz of the neighborhood.

Since we decided to spend less time sightseeing today, we spent the rest of the day eating through Lastarria, stopping at Tres Valles Restaurant, Far Away Bar, and Montana Gelato. Today ended up being a slow but endearing introduction to Santiago. We were so glad to be in bed early so we could take on a busy sightseeing day tomorrow.

Day 2 - Santiago de Chile

Today is the final day of the extended heat wave in Santiago, so we intend to limit outdoor activities. Nearly all museums are closed on Mondays, and we may miss many on this trip as the Christmas holidays start tomorrow. Luckily, I could sign up for a last-minute walking tour through Santiago’s historic center. These pay-as-you-wish walking tours are a great last-minute option to plug the gaps in travel itinerary. They could be a little bit of a crap shoot but still worth the time and investment. The guide, Carlos, turned out to be our favorite and the most memorable character in Chile.

Alameda Avenue is the main artery through Santiago.

The walking tour started from the Church of San Francisco, one of just four buildings that survived the Spanish colonial times. The story of Santiago is closely tied to earthquakes and continuous rebuilding. In the mid-19th century, French culture was all in the vague among the city’s elites. But unlike Bueno Aires or Montevideo, many of Santiago’s grand Beaux-Arts masterpieces were torn down and replaced with modern office buildings. A few notable exceptions include the Santiago Stock Exchange and Club de la Unión. Funny enough, these beautiful buildings made us want to visit Argentina.

Carlos extensively discussed the country’s modern politics on this tour, including Augusto Pinochet’s dictatorship and American capitalist interventions. The most memorable part was his commentary about modern tourism, safety in the city, and the migrant crisis. He does not hold back when it comes to political correctness and politeness. After stopping outside La Moneda Palace, the tour took us to Plaza de Armas and Lastarria. Following Carlos’ recommendations, we had a wonderful lunch at the nearby Chipe Libre—República Independiente del Pisco.

After a short respite at the hotel, we visited San Cristóbal Hill, one of the city’s best viewpoints. A century-old funicular quickly took us from the city center to the top. On the hilltop is a 72-foot-tall statue of the Virgin Mary dedicated to the Immaculate Conception. From the top, the extent of urban sprawl is apparent. Brian also remarked on how much Santiago reminded him of Denver. The hill may offer the city's best view, but I can’t say Santiago has the most impressive modern architecture. The one exception may be Gran Torre Costanera, the second-tall building in Latin America.

Exhausted from a busy day of sightseeing, we took the metro to Providencia, one of the swankiest neighborhoods in Santiago. However, we can’t say we were all that impressed. I could hardly believe how crowded and uninteresting this area seemed. I suppose this area may be more suitable for shoppers. We eventually found a refuge at the rooftop bar of the AC Hotel for a pre-dinner drink before indulging in a seafood feast at La Calma by Fredes.

Day 3 - Santiago de Chile - Valparaíso - Santiago de Chile

Christmas Eve was upon us. While it was a joyous moment for most Chileans, it was not so lovely for visiting tourists. Since so much of Santiago would be shut down for the holiday, we decided to take a day trip to the seaside city of Valparaíso. Known as the “Jewel of the Pacific, the city is renowned for its traditional architecture and bohemian charm. However, I had to admit that what motivated my visit was the city’s designation as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Valparaíso may be a quick 90-minute bus ride from Santiago, but the scenery and climate could not be more different from the capital.

Valparaíso is one of South America's most important seaports and the headquarters of the Chilean Navy. After the opening of the Panama Canal, the city experienced a precipitous economic decline. However, the silver lining of its misfortune was that many of its unique buildings survived. Because the town is on steep hills, over a dozen funiculars provide handy access for locals and tourists alike. However, the abundance of superb murals covering the exteriors of buildings and art galleries made this place truly memorable.

The historical Conception neighborhood of Valparaíso.

After a lovely late lunch at Restaurant La Concepción, we joined a last-minute walking tour through the city. Our guide, Nelai, provided a much-needed social context for the numerous murals. During the tour, we even saw one of the most famous Chilean muralists in action. By the time the tour winded down, much of the city had begun to shut down for Christmas Eve. It was our cue to return to Santiago. Since we had an early flight to catch tomorrow, we did not mind skipping dinner and call it a day early.

Day 4 - Santiago de Chile - Calama - San Pedro De Atacama

We woke up before dawn to catch a domestic flight to Calama, the center of the mining industry. After the Mina de Chuquicamata suspended tours for visitors, there is currently little reason to stay around Calama. Instead, everyone makes an hour-long beeline toward the oasis town of San Pedro de Atacama. This pint-sized village is now the epicenter of the tourism trade in Atacama. Hidden behind its rustic exterior are charming cafes and boutique hotels. After a mediocre lunch at Barros Restaurante, we checked into NOI Casa Atacama, a self-professed four-and-half-star luxury resort. It was overpriced at more than $450 a night for their standard room, even for the high season.

Exhausted from the travel, we took it easy in the afternoon to stroll casually along the backstreets of San Pedro. The colonial-era Church of San Pedro de Atacama and the adjacent market square were exceptionally charming. It is not difficult to see why the place draws visitors from far and wide. However, we were ill-prepared for the unrelenting sun and heat wave. Because of the dry heat, few places offer relief with air conditioning. This may be the first time I have missed New York’s winter!

Because the Atacama Desert has some of the most arid climates on the planet, stargazing tours are among the most popular activities in and around San Pedro. In hindsight, scheduling such a tour on the first evening was a bad idea. When we arrived at the site at ten o’clock, Brian and I struggled to stay awake. Llama Stargazing may have decent online reviews, but we can’t say the night sky here is better than what we experienced in the Sahara Desert in Morocco. However, the biggest disappointment was the quality of the telescopes; I felt even our professional astronomical tour guide felt embarrassed.

Day 5 - San Pedro De Atacama - Laguna Cejar - Puritama - San Pedro De Atacama

Although the Atacama Desert is very popular with tourists, independent travelers lack information. There is little information on the road conditions, and most natural sites require timed entry reservations on a separate website. It was almost as if the local tour operators conspired with the local authority to make independent travel as tricky as possible. I discovered this at the last minute and had to scramble to figure out all the logistics. I could see why so many travelers opted to hand it off to tour operators. The going rate is $180 for a package of five tours. I must admit that the offers are tempting.

Ultimately, we decided to self-drive to all the places on this trip. The first place we visited was Laguna Cejar, roughly half an hour south of San Pedro. This region is part of Salar de Atacama and has no shortage of salt lakes to visit. Laguna Cejar was so popular because of its proximity to town and being one of the few salt lake visitors that could swim/float in. At 30.000 CLP, the admission charge may be steep, but it was put to good use with excellent facilities and dedicated staff. Besides the floating pool, the unexpected highlight was a close-up encounter with a small flock of Andean flamingos.

The visit to Cejar could be conveniently combined with Ojos del Salar and Laguna Tebenquiche. For anyone who does not have the opportunity to visit Laguna Chaxa, Tebenquiche is a good alternative to appreciate the expansiveness of the desert landscape. What we enjoyed the most was the solitude and the absolute silence. This is one of those places where time seems to stop. Aside from the unrelenting sun, this may be the most peaceful and meditative place we have ever been. If it were not for the search for lunch, I would gladly spend an entire day here admiring the slowly changing scenery.

It was time for relaxation after a quick Peruvian meal at Inca's Restaurant. The highlight of the day is a trip Puritama. A series of eight geothermal springs water is located at the bottom of a canyon. At 35,000 CLP a person, this is one of the most expensive tickets on this trip. After a steep descent, we arrived at the beautiful oasis. With only a few hours before the closing time, we did not get to enjoy all eight pools. The water was warm but refreshing. Unlike Iceland’s Blue Lagoon, the thermal spring retains much of its natural appearance. This was Brian’s happy place and the most relaxing spot on this trip.

Day 6 - San Pedro De Atacama - Socaire - San Pedro De Atacama

Today’s itinerary was the one I looked forward to the most for the Atacama portion of this trip. We would be visiting four different high-altitude lagoons in Socaire. The process for reserving tickets for these lagoons is very byzantine. After making an advanced reservation, all visitors must arrive at a “check-in center” in the center of Socaire an hour before the timed entry to pick up the tickets. After standing in line for nearly half an hour, we exchanged the QR code they provided for a handwritten paper slip. It was the most backward ticketing system we have ever dealt with.

The first of the lagoon is Laguna Miscanti, a half-hour drive from Socaire. The drive took us through desolate desert landscapes before a massive alpine lake appeared. The azure water of the lake was spectacular, and the scenery seemed to come straight out of a Giorgio de Chirico painting. Like most popular Chilean natural sites, access is restricted to the defined pathways. A few minute’s drive away is Laguna Miñiques, a smaller but equally scenic lake. This corner of the Atacama desert was what drew me to Chile in the first place. It was unlike any other place we have ever been.

The highlight of the day was our next stop, Piedras Rojas. As the name suggests, it is known for its copper-hued rock along Salar de Aguas Calientes. This is honestly one of the most otherworldly places we have ever visited. But at more than 14,000 feet above sea level, it was not the most pleasant place to be physically. The intense UV rays and strong winds made this a relatively quick visit for us. Our final stop in the area was Laguna Tuyajto, a small cousin of Piedras Rojas. It is just as beautiful, but we practically had the whole place to ourselves.

Actually, we did share the lagoon with one other couple. As we pulled into the parking lot of the viewpoint, we noticed a gay couple enjoying a little PDA nearby. Although Chile affords full equality to people of all sexualities, it is still a relatively conservative country culturally. I was soon approached to take a picture of them. As it turned out, they just got engaged at the spot, and I had the privilege to be the first person to congratulate them on their engagement. I was delighted to be the photographer for the happy occasion at this picturesque spot. The scenery here may be stunning, but the high altitude could be challenging. After Brian’s severe altitude sickness at Peru’s Rainbow Mountain, we knew not to linger for long.

It seemed like everyone must stop at the sign for the Tropic of Capricorn.

On our way back, we stopped for an obligatory selfie at the official signs for the Tropic of Capricorn. It is one of the silliest tourist attractions in Chile, but it was still a fun stop. It was already late afternoon when we returned to San Pedro de Atacama for an early dinner/late lunch at Cafe Adobe. Since our wake-up call tomorrow was 4:30 am., we opted for a leisurely afternoon by the hotel pool and early dinner at Pulperia Atacama.

Day 6 - San Pedro De Atacama - El Tatio - Machuca - San Pedro De Atacama

After some discussions, we visited El Tatio Geothermal Field this morning. El Tatio is the third-largest geothermal field in the world and one of the most popular day trips from San Pedro de Atacama. Because the geysers are the most active in cold weather, most visitors leave San Pedro at five in the morning to arrive at El Tatio at dawn. The 90-minute drive in the dark was not difficult, but Brian was increasingly concerned about the climbing altitude again. At 14,170 feet above sea level, this would be our highest elevation on this trip.

When we arrived at El Tatio, there were already hundreds of tourists; most arrived as part of organized tours—often described as “geysers,” the geothermal field here does not erupt periodically like in Iceland or Yellowstone. What it lacks in individual flare is more than made up by the number of thermal vents. The sheer number of steaming vents is awe-inspiring right at sunrise. Each vent seemed to have its personality, so it was fun to explore the massive site slowly. By nine o’clock, we pretty much had the whole place to ourselves.

The drive back from El Taito was just as worthwhile as the geysers. The daylight revealed the desolate landscape and dramatic vistas. There are so many beautiful spots that warrant a photo spot. A popular stop along the way is the charming village of Machuca, filled with adobe houses and a graceful church on the hilltop. Although advertised as an authentic Indigenous village, I have to question it as this village of fifty hosts hundreds of visitors each morning. The main attraction here seemed to be the freshly grilled guanaco kabobs.

After lunch at La Picada Del Indio and a well-deserved nap, it was time to check out the most popular attraction around San Pedro: Valle de la Luna. Just ten minutes outside the town center, the Valley of Moon is known for its dramatic moon-like landscape. It might also be one of the most micro-managed parks we have ever visited. Not only did the staff use lidar equipment to enforce the 20km/hr speed limit, but each trailhead was staffed to reiterate the myriad of restrictions we all must follow. Like the moon's surface, there is no shade, which is very uncomfortable. This was one of our least favorite spots in the Atacama region.

Ironically, our favorite scenic spot is not inside Valle de la Luna but at a free Mirador Likan -Antay on the side of Route 23. This is one of the most popular places around San Pedro to enjoy the sunset. It is also one of the best spots for people-watching and catching ”influencers in the wild.” After dark, we opted for a romantic dinner at Volkanico SmokeHouse. This may just be one of our loveliest alfresco dining experiences this year.

Day 7 - San Pedro De Atacama - Río Grande - San Pedro De Atacama - Calama

After our disappointing visit to Valle de la Luna yesterday, we decided to check out a part of Atacama. About an hour’s drive from San Pedro, Valle del Arcoiris is often described as a hidden gem, and see how a fraction of visitors of its famous cousin. The first stop this morning was Yerbas Buenas - Petroglyphs near the small village of Rio Grande. The promontory on the desert floor has a remarkable collection of pre-Hispanic petroglyphs depicting local animals, including guanacos, monkeys, and flamingos. We only wish we had more time to explore every nook and cranny.

Valle del Arcoiris is only a twenty-minute drive away through a gravel road from this spot. Known as the Rainbow Valley, Valle del Arcoiris dazzles visitors with its vibrant red and green colors on the cliff face. The rock formation may not be as “alien” as Valle de la Luna, but we find the freedom to explore and the hiking experiences here far superior. The slot canyon, in particular, is awe-inspiring. The best part was that it was only a few steps from the parking lot. We should have visited this area on the first day!

Before bidding goodbye to Atacama, we treated ourselves to a five-course meal at Restaurante Ephedra. Located in the rural part of San Pedro, this place earned rave reviews from travelers for its attention to detail and innovative use of local ingredients. However, the most impressive aspect of the establishment is the 30-year-old chef/owner behind the enterprise. Not only did he look like a high school student, but creating a fine-dining restaurant in the middle of the desert landscape takes hard work and conviction. We have nothing but great things to say about this six-month-old restaurant.

Earlier this morning, we received an e-mail from LATAM that our flight from Calama to Santiago would be delayed for more than three hours. That could seriously jeopardize the onward flight to Punta Arena and my coveted rental car reservation. Luckily, I negotiated with the airline to change to a different flight, allowing at least 45 minutes to make the connecting flight at Santiago Airport. But we still had to return our rental car on time, so we had many idle hours at Calama Airport.

Day 8 - Calama - Santiago De Chile - Punta Arenas

After a restless night of worrying about making our connecting flight at Santiago Airport, we landed in Punta Arenas on time in the early morning. The change of scenery from Atacama was stunning; the architecture and landscape here reminded us a lot of Iceland. We could hardly believe we were still in the same country. After days of intense Atacama desert weather, we could appreciate the Patagonian fog and cooler temperature. This might be the first time I enjoyed the overcast sky and drizzles. Since it was too early to check into Patagonia Apart Hotel, we stopped by Wake Up - Coffee & Brunch to grab a cup of artisan coffee.

Despite the incliment weather, I was eager to check out Fuerte Bulnes. Situated roughly an hour’s drive from Punta Arenas, this humble little fort was the most important military outpost along the Strait of Magellan. Before the opening of the Panama Canal, this waterway was once the most valuable shipping route between the Atlantic and the Pacific. But like most military outposts of that era, it wasn't easy to make a living here. The Chilean military abandoned the fort in favor of Punta Arenas. Brian and I quickly realized that this was the most southern spot we had ever been. The fort was, in fact, only a few miles from the southern tip of the South American continent.

Muelle Loreto, the historical pier of Punta Arenas.

Before checking into the hotel, we stopped at Roca Mar, a no-frills seafood shack downtown. Their seafood soup is one of the best and has a surprisingly Japanese flavor. As much as I would like to play a perfect tourist in Punta Arenas, the overnight travel and dreary weather prompted me to take a well-deserved long nap. I hope the weather improves tomorrow. Before long, it was time for dinner at Restaurante La Yegua Loca. This eccentric hotel restaurant specializes in Patagonian seafood; the ambiance here seemed to transport us to Scandavinia.

Day 9 - Punta Arenas - Puerta Natales

I was dismayed when I woke up early and found the same dreary weather yesterday. That said, I would not let that deter me from exploring this fantastic city. My mini-tour started along the waterfront. Although today’s Punta Arenas is no longer a particularly prosperous city in Chile, it proudly shows off its pioneer and seafaring heritage. There must be at least a hundred memorials, plaques, and artworks commemorating notable locals. However, the most important figure in town must be Ferdinand Magellan, the Portuguese explorer and the namesake of the Strait of Magellan. He is honored with a monumental memorial at the center of Muñoz Gamero Square. Around the plaza are also some of the city’s most elaborate structures, such as Sara Braun Palace and

The monumnet of Ferdinand Magellan at Muñoz Gamero Square.

For breakfast, I met Brian at Kiosco Roca, a venerated family eatery that serves just two humble items: Magellanic Choripán and banana milkshakes. It is a legendary eatery well-known across Chile and a designated national culinary landmark. At 1,200 CLP a piece, the iconic sandwich is probably the most affordable dish we tried on this trip. I can’t say these sandwiches are the best, but sitting at their counter to people-watch is a great travel experience in itself.

One of Punta Arena’s most popular “attractions” is the municipal cemetery: Cementerio Municipal Sara Braun. The cemetery was founded in 1919 under the patronage of pioneer Sara Braun, the wealthiest woman in Patagonia. With plenty of ornate mausoleums, it is regarded as one of the most beautiful cemeteries in the world and is sometimes compared to Bueno Aires’s La Recoleta Cemetery. The walk through the cemetery is an overview of the pioneering history of Patagonia. Before heading out of town, we had a fantastic lunch at Parrilla Los Ganaderos, where we were introduced to the magic of Patagonian lamb asado. The lamb ribs were divine in particular.

After lunch, we drove three and a half hours toward Puerto Natales, the gateway for Torres del Paine National Park. Patagonia’s landscape may be legendary, but this drive was surprisingly dull. There was almost no traffic along the route; we can’t help but wonder whether all the tourists flew straight to Puerto Natales. It was not until the last thirty minutes that the majesty of the Patagonian mountain range began to emerge on the horizon. The city is set along the scenic shore of the Gulf of Almirante Montt. The view from the room at Best Western Patagonia was stunning. I could only imagine the scenery awaiting us inside the national park.

Monumento al Viento is a tribute to the wind-swept Patagonia.

Although Puerto Natales is often considered a sleepy town for budget-conscious travelers, I was pleasantly surprised by the amenities available in town. Unfortunately, most businesses were closed because it was New Year's Eve. Most restaurants open for business required buying into overpriced pre-fix menus because it was a holiday. We thought we might have to go without dinner. Imagine how overjoyed we were to get a table at Napoli Pizzería Italiana. Their guanaco pizza was certainly interesting.

Day 10 - Puerto Natales - Torres del Paine

We chose to stay in Puerto Natales to save on accommodation costs. The price was astronomical, so we opted to stay only nights inside the park. We started early to make the most of our time. The drive to the park was splendid, and we quickly saw why Torres del Paine was such a desirable destination. After the check-in at the ranger station, our first stop was
Hotel Lago Grey, the starting point for exploring the Grey Glacier. Although a three-hour lake cruise was the best way to get close to the glacier, the 115,000 CLP per person cruise was sold out during our four-day visit. Instead, we took a two-hour hike to the nearby viewpoint.

One of my biggest worries about visiting the park was finding a place for lunch, so I was pleased to see a state-of-the-art cafeteria: Rio Pingo. Their lunch buffet is a relatively decent deal, considering its prime location. Unfortunately, the weather continued to deteriorate as the day went on. However, we had enough willpower to take a short hike this afternoon. The trail to Salto Grande and Mirador Cuernos was our favorite trail in the entire park. This easy two-hour roundtrip hike brought us to Lago Nordenskjöld and the foot of the granite peaks.

With drizzles coming down, we reluctantly checked into Hotel del Paine in Río Serrano. This hotel is located just outside the park entrance, which may explain why it is on the “affordable” side. The rooms may be basic, but the hotel has a commanding view of Cuernos del Paine. Because this was the peak season, the nightly rate for their cheapest room was 450,000 CLP. It was a hard pill to follow, but it beats the daily roundtrip to and from Puerto Natales. However, the hotel completely redeemed itself with a spectacular barbeque dinner.

Day 11 - Torres del Paine

After yesterday's gloomy weather, we were pleasantly delighted by the sunny weather. I felt the need to make up for lost time. It was insane how the scenery changed with the sun and clear sky. After breakfast, our first stop was Salto Chico Falls. This delightful little hike, paved with a boardwalk, was particularly photogenic. This spot is also home to Explora Patagonia Hotel Salto Chico, the first luxury lodge inside the park. Being the first meant the hotel got the best site and could only be afforded by the ultra-rich.

Our next stop was Lago Pehoe, a turquoise-blue lake out of this world. From a roadside parking lot near Hosteria Pehoe, a short and steep hike brought us to Mirador Cóndor. As the name suggests, this viewpoint offers commanding views of Torres del Paine and Cuernos del Paine. But unlike condors, humans are not adapted to the high winds of Patagonia. We could hardly spend more than five minutes at the summit. Much to my horror, a few fellow hikers even tried to “surf” the wind.

Given the splendid weather, we drove along the main artery road through the park and stopped by more than a dozen viewpoints. It eventually brought us to the main road through the park, stopping at more than a dozen viewpoints. This eventually brought us to Cascada Rio Paine, the largest waterfall inside the park. After a quick lunch at Refugio Pudeto, we decided to hike to Mirador Cuernos again to take advantage of the splendid weather. While the views were better today, the gust of wind was intense and unrelenting. Ironically, Brian preferred the light rain yesterday with no wind.

It seemed like I had Lago Pehoe all to myself at sunset.

As much as I enjoyed the hike, the hurricane-force wind took a beating on us. I could only imagine how miserable it was for those doing the multi-day trek around the park. After dinner at the hotel, I returned to the park to catch the sunset. I returned to my favorite viewpoint at Lago Pehoe. At this hour, everyone had retreated to hotels and campgrounds, so hardly anyone was on the road. It was surreal to have this otherworldly scenery all to myself. I had to pinch myself to make sure this was real.

Day 12 - Torres del Paine - Puerta Natales

Part of me was sad that we did not get to do the iconic day hike to Las Torres Base. We were just mentally unprepared for it. We were surprised by how many short hikes were available without committing to a day hike. Brian joked that no one needs three days to stare at the same mountain peaks. As a consolation prize for missing out on Las Torres Base, we drove to Laguna Azure on the park's western edge. The lovely trail here gave us a splendid view of Las Torres. This was a befitting end to our visit to Torres del Paine.

The drive back to Puerto Natales was nerve-racking. We were worried about our dangerously low gas tank but felt enormous relief when we reached the gas station. After a late lunch at La Disqueria Restaurant and refueling our empty gas tank, we had just two hours to get to Mylodon Cave Natural Monument. Often included in the packaged tour itinerary, this enormous natural cave produced a treasure trove of Late Pleistocene megafauna. The most famous among them is Mylodon, a ground sloth and an unofficial mascot of Puerto Natales.

Before our trip, our friend Ivy emphasized that we could not miss the seafood dinner at Santolla, which is coincidentally attached to our hotel. As its name suggests, this place specializes in Patagonian king crab and is enormously popular. Unfortunately, I accidentally messed up on their waitlist, and we had to scout out for dinner again. We ended up at El Asador Patagónico, partly because of the Patagonian Lamb Asador. You can imagine my disappointment learning they sold out.

Day 13 - Puerta Natales - Santiago de Chile

As we began our slow journey back home, this was a busy travel day. Heeding the advice of fellow travelers, we did not arrive at Puerto Natales’s tiny airport terminal until an hour before the flight time. It was just enough time to return our rental car and grab breakfast at the uber-trendy Holaste! Specialty Coffee. It was bittersweet to bid goodbye to Patagonia. Even though this portion of the trip has been stressful, there is no denying these are some of the most breathtaking sceneries we have ever visited. That said, we secretly missed the creature's comfort of Santiago.

Budget carrier SKY Airlines was actually nicer than LATAM.

Upon checking into Solace Hotel Santiago in the “upscale” Providencia neighborhood, we rushed to the Chilean Museum of Pre-Columbian Art near Plaza de Armas. This was the one museum in the city that we missed during the first part of our trip. Among all the national museums in the town, this is the most uniquely Chilean. Its collection of quipu, the Incan record-keeping system embedded in ropes, interested us the most. It is among the world’s most enigmatic “writing systems” known today; Brian actually considered doing scholarly research on this topic!

Afterward, we stopped by the nearby La Moneda Palace, which houses the office of the President of Chile. Although the palace is closed to visitors, La Moneda Cultural Center, a hidden gem below the square to the south, is a premier cultural space hosting numerous exhibitions and artisanal boutiques. We capped our evening with a glass of pisco sour at the hotel rooftop bar and a lovely dinner at Ambrosia Bistró. This trendy bistro is a casual offshoot of one of the city’s most celebrated fine dining establishments. With a splendid view of Gran Torre Costanera, it was just a perfect final meal in Santiago.

Day 14 - Santiago de Chile - Atlanta - NewARK

Our flight back home was scheduled to take off at eleven in the morning, so we technically had an hour or two of free time to explore more of Santiago. But I must admit that this trip to Chile has been incredibly exhausting; I can’t peel myself out of bed early enough. I honestly think this is the most stressful trip we have ever taken thus far. However, that doesn’t mean we did not have a lovely time. We will be back in Chile in the very near future. Hopefully, we will be able to visit the Easter Island and Chile’s wine region the next time!

Chile Itinerary - Winter 2024