Peruvian Highlands itinerary - Summer 2023

For whatever reasons, our trips in the past years have been somewhat last-minute. For a long time, I planned on attending the quinquennial Latvian National Song and Dance Festival in Riga. Because they were not releasing tickets until a month before the event, I felt compelled to have an alternate plan. I quickly learned one of the best places to visit in June and July would be the South American Andes. This happened to be their winter months, the dry season, and the tourist high season. I had an idea that perhaps I could visit the Machu Picchu and hike the Inca Trial.

Our friends Vince and I hiked the Inca Trail about six years ago. They had to book their trial permits nearly a year in advance due to the trial’s overwhelming popularity. Much to my surprise, plenty of permits were available less than two months out. Part of that was the results of the pandemic but also political instabilities. On December 7th, 2022, the President of Peru, Pedro Castillo, was ousted after trying to dissolve the congress to avoid impeachment. Because of Castillo’s indigenous roots, large segments of the population of the Andean region protested against his ouster. The protest was so intense that the government shut down Machu Picchu for a few weeks.

You got to chuckle at the tourism trade in Peru.

It has been about half a year after the incident, but I was still a little apprehensive about visiting Peru. Since I had a relatively high tolerance for risk, I thought this might be a golden opportunity to visit one of the most popular destinations with less crowd. Given that we only had twelve days, and five were reserved for the Inca Trail, we opted to stick with only the Andean region around Cusco. Even so, this trip turned out to be both emotionally and physically exhausting.

Day 1 - New York - Lima

One major upgrade we enjoyed on this trip was the complimentary lounge access at New York JFK Airport. We couldn’t believe it took us more than ten years to discover the world of “free” airport lounges. For me, paying for overpriced sandwiches or coffee at New York City airports is always one of the most depressing experiences. Free food and the outstanding tarmac views from the swanky Virgin Atlantic Clubhouse are much appreciated. We felt like a high roller for that hour.

Because of limited international connections to Cusco, a long layover in Lima is almost unavoidable. As much as I hoped to squeeze in a day in Lima, we decided to spend a night at the airport hotel. Over the last few years, Lima has become one of the more crime-ridden cities in South America. The girlfriend of Brian’s colleague, Steve, lives and grew up in Lima and warned us that the neighborhoods surrounding the airport are dangerous. She was very concerned about our safety to the point of offering to chauffer us to our hotel. Thanksfully, our hotel was thirty seconds from the terminal building. The hotel may be overpriced, but you can’t beat the convenience.

Day 2 - Lima - Cusco - Chinchero - Yucay

After a surprisingly good breakfast at the hotel, we were checked back into the airport terminal with plenty of time to spare. Lima Airport may seem small and dingy-looking, but the operational efficiency of this place was top-notch. The 90-minute hop to Cusco was great, but we were both nervous about how we might react to the lack of oxygen in Cusco. Since we both took Diamox (Acetazolamide) the night before, we felt right when we exited the plane. That said, we could feel the difference in the air immediately.

We will spend the next few days exploring the Sacred Valley before spending a day or two in Cusco. The rental car pickup process at Cusco Airport was a little confusing. Renting cars has been stressful since the pandemic. Luckily, they were able to honor my reservation for an automatic car. This being our first time in South America, I was ecstatic as I finally drove on every inhabited continent. Our first stop on this day was the town of Chinchero. We had a leisurely lunch at Restaurante Merienda. Their beautifully presented dishes and views of the Andean mountains were our perfect introduction to Peru.

After lunch, we paid a visit to the Archaeological Centre of Chinchero. We were both giddy to visit our first of many Incan ruins on this trip. This impressive and seldom-visited fortress was home to Túpac Yupanqui, the second emperor of the Incas, who also ordered the construction of Machu Picchu. The impressive stoneworks were mesmerizing. The colonial church on the ground was just as enchanting. Even more amazingly, only a dozen other tourists were there during our hour-long visit.

The drive from Chinchero followed along the high plateau; the rolling meadows and snowy peaks immediately put us at ease. The natural beauty of this country immediately struck us. We can’t believe it took us so long to visit South America. It was only a few minutes from Chincero before we had our first glimpse of the Sacred Valley. A roadside pullout called MachuQolqa Viewpoint. offered gorgeous views of the valley. A massive Incan ruin was perched on a hill to the side. Peru seems like one of these places where monumental sites seemingly appear out of nowhere.

Our home for the next two days was Sonesta Posadas del Inca Yucay. This lovely property was home to an 18th-century monastery. The designers somehow combine the historical ambiance with the modern comforts of an international chain hotel. This was a perfect home base for exploring the Sacred Valley. The dinner at their Inkafé Restaurant was a fancy affair I wasn’t prepared for; we finally felt like we were on vacation.

Day 3 - Yucay - Ollantaytambo - Moray - Yucay

After a beautiful breakfast, we made our way to the village of Ollantaytambo. This fabled town is one of the gateway to Machu Picchu. Historically, the town was also one of the last Incan strongholds against the Spanish. Despite being overrun with tourists, Ollantaytambo is full of charms with its cobbled streets and thatched roofs. At the edge of the town is a massive Inca site, which was gloriously illuminated by the morning sun. Like the site in Chinchero from yesterday, the Incan ruin at Ollantaytambo was also covered under the Cusco Tourist Ticket (Boleto Turistica del Cusco) we bought yesterday. For 130 PEN a person, the ticket gives visitors admission to sixteen of the most popular cultural and historical sites in and around Cusco.

Since this was only our second day at this elevation, the hike up to the top was fun but challenging. It was a way for us to figure out how well-prepared we were for the Inca Trail. At the top of the ruin is Temple Hill and its massive Wall of the Six Monoliths. It was mindblowing how the Incans managed to transport these monoliths across the valley and up the hill, all without the help of modern machinery or wheels. We could easily see why most guidebooks recommend Ollantaytambo as a home base in Sacred Valley.

After our visit, we stopped for coffee at Latente Specialty Coffee. This tiny cafe's minimalist decor and handcrafted coffee provided the perfect refuge for us. With enough caffeine, we were ready to hike up hillside granaries. These imposing structures cling to the side of the hill precariously. The view from the top was amazing and one of the best short hikes we have ever taken in recent years. Afterward, we had a very slow lunch at Inka Nato Restaurante. The meal may not have been the best we had, but Brian got to hone his Spanish with the friendly waitress.

We spotted a few steel barrels hanging on a cliff face on the way out of Ollantaytambo. I immediately recognized them to be the Vertical Sky Suites. This is perhaps the world’s most unique accommodation and has drawn countless travel influencers far and wide. As exciting as it seems, paying $500 a night for a room with no shower seemed excessive. From there, it was an hour away to our final stop of the day: Moray. Archaeologists believe this unique Inca ruin was an experimental agricultural field because of its wide fluctuations in temperature and moisture.

Before returning to the hotel, we made a quick stop at the central plaza of Maras. The monument at the center was particularly memorable. While Brian was eager to return to the hotel restaurant for dinner, I insisted on trying a new place. We ended up at Tierra Cocina Artesanal in nearby Urubamba. The steak dinner was great, if not a bit oversalted.

Day 4 - Yucay - Maras - Pisac - Cusco

Reluctantly, we had to bid goodbye to the lovely hotel this morning. We only wished we had a few extra days in the Sacred Valley. Our first stop today is the Salt Mines of Maras. The ancient salt “mine” is a series of terraced salt wells fed by a tiny natural saline stream from the side of the hill. It has been in operation even before the rise of the Incas. For centuries, the local community has owned and operated these fields through an ownership stricture called “ayni”. Even though it is now a major tourist attraction, the salt fields still produce a copious amount of high-quality salt.

The agricultural terraces of the Inca Complex at Písac

Since we had to return our rental car early, we had time to visit just one other place in the Sacred Valley. The charming town of Pisac seemed like a solid choice. This pint-size place has a lovely central plaza and a massive public market. In the center was La Ruta, a small restaurant with a balcony overlooking Plaza Constitucion. Pisac may be a lovely town, but the main draw is the massive Inca ruins on the hilltop, another 30-minute drive away. The place is several times larger than Ollantaytambo. We could have spent three or four hours here. It was difficult to hike up to the top at this altitude.

Before returning to Cusco, I couldn't help making another stop at Puka Pukara Archaeological Complex. This is another site covered by the tourist tickets. This place is tiny, but it was just what we needed at the end of a long day. The late afternoon sun created a beautiful golden glow on the whole fortress. Puka Pukara was one of my favorite Incan sites visited on this trip, and a great ending for our little Peruvian road trip.

We were supposed to get a car wash before returning our rental. But it turned out that it was easier said than done. All the car washes near the airport seemed to be closed before sunset. The agent allowed us to return the car regardless, but I was terrified that they might find some “hidden” scratches below the dirt and grime. So, we finally arrived at Cusco and checked in to the lovely Abittare Hotel. This boutique hotel is conveniently located across Coricancha and is a comfortable base for us for the next few days. We wrapped up the day at Kusykay Peruvian Craft Foods, the most popular restaurant in Cusco if Tripadvisor was to be believed.

Day 5 - Cusco

I was beyond excited to begin our first full day in Cusco. After breakfast, we made a beeline to Plaza de Armas, the city’s historic main square. The plaza was teeming with well-dressed professionals, politicians, and many kids. There was a flag-raising ceremony and a never-ending parade of students and professional groups. To get the best views of the parade, we climbed the bell tower of the Church of the Society of Jesus. I learned from the staff here that this was the day that Cusco celebrated its liberation from colonial rule. Funny enough, I could not find much information about this day online.

The celebratory gathering on the Plaza de Armas.

After the bell tower, we found a nice seat at Cusco’s only Starbucks, which also had a beautiful view of the square. I can’t say I am proud of getting Starbucks in Peru, but it was nice to find comfort in familiarity. While the parade was going on, we took a stroll around central Cusco. In particular, I was looking for the famous “Twelve-sided Stone” at the base of the Archbishop’s Palace. The masonry work here is often regarded as a triumph of Incan engineering and craftsmanship.

As much as I enjoyed the parade, we felt the time pressure to do more sightseeing. Our next stop was the Regional Historical Museum of Cusco. This nondescript museum provides the best overview of Cusco’s history, even before the arrival of the Incas. For us, the most intriguing item in their collection is Sol de Soles (Sun of Suns), an Inca golden national emblem that was returned to Peru from the Smithsonian Institution only recently. Seeing more and more cultural heritage repatriated back to their homeland was great.

After a great lunch at the nearby Kushka Restaurant, we took an Uber to check out two of Cusco’s most important Inca sites. First up was the Archaeological Complex of Q'enqo. Unlike most Incan sites we saw on this trip, Q'enqo is unique because it is subterranean. Ten minutes away is Saqsaywaman, which overlooks the city. The stonework here is massive. The zig-zag terraced walls are likely nothing we have ever seen. As we stood atop the fortress and surveyed the surrounding valley, we decided to sign up for a last-minute day tour of Rainbow Mountain on Tripadvisor. Because our tour was supposed to start at four o’clock in the morning, we had an early dinner at a vegan cafe called Qura before heading to bed.

Day 6 - Cusco - Vinicunca - Cusco

We woke up at four o’clock to the message that the pickup time for our tour had been pushed back for an hour. At five, we were promptly picked up at our hotel. From Cusco, it was a three-hour drive to Rainbow Mountain. After stopping for breakfast halfway through the journey, our van continued up the mountain. Even though I knew this mountain was more than 17,000, I did not prepare myself for the challenge of the hike. It did not take us long to hire horses to take us up the foothill of the Rainbow Mountain. From there, it was a short and grueling climb up the ridge. It is probably the hardest climb we did and several times more challenging than the Adam’s Peak.

The views from the top were magnificent, for sure, but it did come at a cost. As soon as we reached the top of the ridge, Brian was ready to head down. The high altitude started to mess with his blood pressure, which made him very sluggish. In hindsight, we should have taken the horse much earlier. Maybe it was not the brightest idea to do this tour the day before embarking on the Inca Trail tomorrow. Thanksfully, we returned to Cusco in mid-afternoon, much earlier than anticipated. Brian took the much-needed rest and recovery.

While he was back at the hotel, I took the opportunity to explore more of Cusco. Since we covered most of Cusco’s major sites earlier, I could take in Cusco at a slower pace and enjoy the relaxed ambiance of this remarkable city. In the early evening, we met up with Jhon for the orientation meeting for the trek. Hearing Jhon speak about the toilet situation on the trail put Brian in a sour mode. For Brian, spending four days without a proper toilet was probably the last thing he wanted to do. We ended our evening with an early dinner at the nearby Chulls Peruvian Restaurant.

Day 7 - Cusco - Piscacucho

Yesterday was rough on Brian; he had reservations about walking the Inca Trail. After some deliberation, we thought he should give it a shot. He might feel better by tomorrow morning when we start the actual trek. Before the three 3 pm. pick-up, we had a few more hours for sightseeing and stocking up on last-minute supplies. We visited the Cathedral of Cusco and the Archbishop's Palace nearby. A highlight for us was a painting of the Last Supper with a guinea pig as their main course. It is one of the most unusual religious paintings I have seen in a very long time.

Before leaving town, we had our last meal at the lovely A Mi Manera. At three, Jhon promptly picked us up at the hotel. We met Chris, our sole trekking partner on this trek. He has spent the past three weeks backpacking through Peru and completed various hikes. He was a lot more athletic and fit than both of us. It was a two-and-a-half-hour drive to the base camp at Piscacucho. Upon exiting the van, it was another ten-minute hike to the base camp, which was a lot more rugged than anticipated. It was a bad omen for what was to come. Fortunately, we got to stay in a thatched tent, typically for those signed up for their premium package. It was more luxurious than we could imagine; the ensuite bathroom was a blessing.

The snow-capped peak of Apu Veronica, as seen from the base camp.

Over dinner at the lodge, we got to know Jhon and the trekking company better. As much as I was excited about the Inca Trail, I also looked forward to learning more about Peru and the modern history of the Incan Trail. I particularly enjoyed hearing Jhon describing how the trek evolved over the last three decades. While visitors today do not have the same level of freedom as in decades past, the regulations are ultimately a positive toward the preservation of Peru’s most precious heritage.

Day 8 - Piscacucho - Hatunchaca

I woke up refreshed this morning, but the same could not be said about Brian. After breakfast, we had a meet-and-greet session with the chef and all the porters. In total, eight porters were serving just the three of us. It felt like an overkill, no matter how you look at it. Our first order of business was to check in at the ranger station with our passports. Before setting off, Jhon led us through a little museum to give us an overview of the history of Macchu Picchu and the trail ahead.

This initial section was not what we all pictured of the Inca Trail. The landscape was dry and dusty and reminded me a lot of California. Barely an hour on a trail, Brian turned to me and told me that he was having a miserable time. Not only was he under the weather, he also did not have the best backpack. Shortly after, he decided to head back to the base camp with one of the porters. Given how far we have come and the cost, I decided to continue and hopefully meet with Brian at Machu Picchu at the end of the trail.

The Incan city of Patallacta is also known as the *Village of Hummingbird*.

Only half an hour after saying goodbye to Brian, we arrived at Patallacta, the primary Incan site of today’s stage. It was just what I needed to feel more positively about the Incan Trail. I was sad that Brian was not able to enjoy this beautiful sight. From there, it was another hour and a half before a gourmet lunch with a view of a snow-capped mountain. Although this first stage was supposed to be “easy,” I must admit that I was struggling toward the end of the afternoon. When we arrived at the campsite in Hatunchaca, I was thoroughly exhausted and ready for bed and an early dinner.

Day 9 - Hatunchaca - Pacaymayu

I woke up this morning relatively refreshed. It was my first time camping in the past fifteen years; I am glad I adjusted to it better than expected. After a quick wash-up with a bucket of warm water and a big breakfast, we were ready to tackle the day ahead. The second day on the trail is universally regarded to be the most challenging of the entire trail. We will climb up the Dead Woman’s Pass, the highest point of the Inca Trail. It took me about four-and-a-half hours to make the grueling ascend. While the views from the top were spectacular, the true joy was the camaraderie developed among fellow hikers.

The hike up to the Dead Woman’s Pass was a struggle for most visitors.

Unsurprisingly, Christ was substantially faster than me and had to wait for me for nearly an hour. From there, it was a steep descent down to the campsite in Pacaymayu. This side of the hill had a completely different microclimate; the misty environment was a welcomed respite from the intense heat this morning. I was worried we might get rained on at one point. Upon arriving at the camp, we had our late lunch. Then, it was time to take a cold shower at the campsite facility. Although it was freezing, it felt invigorating nevertheless. Before we knew it, it was time for dinner again. I genuinely enjoyed my time with Jhon and Chris; the experience reminded me of Camino de Santiago.

Day 10 - Pacaymayu - Phuyupatamarca

We woke up this morning with dense clouds hanging over the campsite. I was reticent about the prospect of hiking in the rain. The first stop was Runkuraqay, a small tambo, an administrative/military post of the Inca Empire. Today’s stage is said to be Jonh’s favorite, and we can easily see why. After summiting Runcuracay Pass, the second-tallest point of the trail, hikers are rewarded with wonderful views of the snow-capped peaks of Salcantay. I could hardly contain my excitement about the spectacular views.

One of my favorite Incan sites on the trail was Phuyupatamarca. Meaning “Inaccessible Village” in Quechua, this dramatically situated fortress was the residential complex of a local noble family and an important military garrison. We could spot various Incan platforms and fortifications dotted around the valley from the platforms. Among them is Conchamarca, which was only a short hike down the valley. Today's plethora of Incan sites made this easily my favorite day in Peru thus far. Before we knew it, we arrived at Chaquicocha, a popular campsite with the best facility on this trail. It was a perfect spot for our quick lunch break.

This was what we pictured what Inca Trail ough to be.

The final section of today’s stage was stunning. It was indeed what we all consider the Inca Trail ought to be. The path hugs along the cliff and provides gorgeous vistas at every turn. I only wished I could helicopter Brian in for this particular section. This was the best hike in my life easily. The final campsite on the trail was Phuyupatamarca, the most scenic camp. That said, the toilet facility was deplorable; I was very grateful for the private chemical toilet our tour operator provided. Being our last evening on the trail, melancholy inevitably. I felt grateful to check off a big item on my travel bucket list.

Day 11 - Phuyupatamarca - Machu Picchu - Aguas Calientes - Cusco

Most other groups at our camp left early in the morning to make it to the Sun Gate for sunrise. Since we did not aim to get there for sunrise, we still woke up relatively early compared to the day’s past. Before setting off for the day, we said goodbye to our team of porters and the chef and presented them with our gratuities. All of these would not be possible or this enjoyable for us. Porters are the backbones of the Inca Trails and true heroes that made our journey possible.

Our first stop in the morning was Phuyupatamarka, a small but dramatic fortress just minutes from the campsite. Because the Machu Picchu is situated at a relatively low elevation, the drop in elevation this morning was precipitous. While I found the downhill trek a joy, I could see how it may be extraneous or potentially dangerous for some visitors. An hour into the trek, the cloud began to lift; I was ecstatic that I could enjoy Machu Picchu in all of its glory. Before we knew it, we arrived at Intipata, an enormous agricultural complex that has only been recently restored.

Before we knew it, we arrived at the so-called Gringo Killer, a steep bank of steps regarded as the final “hurdle” before arriving at the Sun Gate. In the blink of an eye, I got my first glimpse of Machu Picchu. Four days of trekking made this moment particularly personal and memorable. After taking celebratory selfies on the upper terrace, we reunited with Brian at the entrance to begin our official tour of Machu Picchu. I still can’t believe I managed to complete the Inca Trail.

Thank you for the company, Chris and Jhon!

After the tour, we took the official shuttle bus down to Aguas Calientes, a town that exists entirely due to the tourism to Machu Picchu. We had a final celebratory drink with Jhon and Chris before bidding farewell. After an elegant dinner at Chullos Restaurant & Craft Beer, we boarded the Inka Rail train to Ollantaytambo and then transferred to a private van to Cusco. We checked back into Abittare Hotels just before midnight. Sadly, I had an unpleasant argument with the receptionist because they mistakenly gave away our upgraded room to another customer.

Day 12 - Cusco

It felt almost like a dream to get back to Cusco. With the Inca Trail behind us, we felt very relaxed. Brian felt a little melancholic not walking the Inca Trail. To cheer him up, we went on a little retail therapy. Since we arrived in Peru, we have been eyeing alpaca knitwear. After perusing half a dozen different retailers, we still find Patapampa has the best collection. That said, Brian set his eyes on the striking weather from Kuna. Since such a purchase would be a major investment, we decided to defer making a final decision until the evening.

The one spot that we missed out on so far was San Pedro Central Market. It is the one place in Cusco that Jhon recommends besides the Plaza de Armas and Saqsaywaman. As people often say, local markets like San Pedro offer the best window into the local culture. I got a bowl of chicken noodle soup from one of the most popular stands there. Besides fresh produce and flowers, visitors could also find “exotic” items such as dried-up alpaca fetuses and pickled snakes.

With an afternoon left, we explored corners of colonial Cusco. Top on our list is the San Blas neighborhood and Sapantiana Aqueduct. While we understand the area’s hipster appeal, the diminutive aqueduct was a major disappointment. Fortunately, it was only a short walk to the Church of San Cristóbal, which is said to have the best views of central Cusco. While the church interior is not much to admire, climbing to the top of the bell tower was a must. For dinner, we decided to return to Kushka Restaurant for our final meal in Peru.

Day 13 - Cusco - Lima - New York

It was somewhat uneasy to check out of our hotel this morning. The same hotel manager was there to send us off and offered to pay for our cab. Since she never refunded us the extra charge for the room we did not have, I did not feel bad about having her pay for a 20-PEN cab ride. As we sat by the gate waiting to board our flight to Lima, I must confess that I felt a sense of relief. As great as my Inca Trail experiences were, we found this trip quite stressful. Is it odd that we both can’t wait to get out and return to Peru?

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