Inca Trail: Day 5 - Puyupatamarca - Machu Picchu

Last night was not particularly restful. Just as we were going to bed, a group of trekkers had just arrived at the camp after walking in the darkness for a few hours. While I applauded their perseverance, they were just a little caustic for that evening. Their camp happened to be a few steps from my tent. It was difficult to tune out the noise as I tried to get some sleep before the final trek. Without earplugs, I stayed awake far longer than I wished. Ironically, a campsite on the Inca Trail could be nosier than Manhattan.

Our morning call for the day was 5:30 am. Even though we were not aiming to be at the Sun Gate for sunrise, we still aimed to arrive at Machu Picchu around 11 am. But there is another reason we were having an early start to the day. As soon as we wrapped our breakfast, all the porters began packing everything at a furious pace. The porters must catch this one specific mid-morning train to get home. They had no time to spare. Even so, the team still prepared us a bountiful breakfast. Before decamping, it was finally time to tip all the porters and bid our farewell.

Since neither Chris nor I spoke more than a few words of Spanish, we relied on Jhon to translate our gratitude for the team’s hard work and exemplary services. It was awkward because it was just the two of us as we were outnumbered more than four to one. As much as I wish to make a big deal out of our appreciation, I needed to remind myself that these guys did these treks a dozen times a year. Our little four-day trek meant more to us than them. At the end of the day, it is best to let the cash do all the talking sometimes. From what we could tell, the guys seemed pretty happy with the tip!

After waving goodbye to the team, we began our final day of the journey. By the time we departed, just one other group was still at the campsite. According to Jhon, most groups left around three o’clock to be at the Sun Gate for the sunrise. Honestly, I began to wonder just how splendid that sunrise must be. But unfortunately, the weather was less than optimal this morning. Jhon thought it would be 50/50 in terms of rain this morning. Just the thought of hiking to Machu Picchu in the rain depressed me. I was glad that I had at least my waterproof hiking boots on.

As expected, our first stop this morning was Phuyupatamarka, a mere five-minute trek from the camp. This elusive fortress was magically enticing, with clouds and mist swirling around us. This large complex is noted for its elaborate system of water channels that fed a series of ceremonial baths lining the trail. This impressive fortress was built right on top of an underground stream. But with Machu Picchu waiting for us this afternoon, none of us wanted to linger for too long. In retrospect, I wish I made the effort to visit this fortress yesterday afternoon.

There were many minor Inca sites along the trail this morning.

For any who hiked the Inca Trail, the term “Inca flat” is often used as an inside joke. Despite the word “flat,” the phrase is a euphemism for the hilly terrain on the trail. It is a common phrase tour guides use to downplay the physical challenges of the Inca Trail. In the past few days, Jhon used this term to encourage me when I stressed out about the trail ahead. We all knew it meant nothing after a while. When Jhon told us that today’s trail was all downhill, I did not believe him for one second. Imagine my surprise that he was telling the truth this time around. Not only was it all downhill, but it was also very steep. I am glad we were not hiking in the other direction. That would have been even worse than the Dead Woman’s Pass.

I hoped the cloud cover would lift soon.

About an hour in, the cloud began to lift. It certainly lightened our spirits. I saw a glimmer of hope that we may avoid the rain. Even Jhon started to think that we could avoid the rain today. Before long, Machu Picchu mountain came back into view right as the cloud began to lift. Just around then, the porters from Ecoinka began to blaze past us. Some of the younger guys were running down the steps. Considering how uneven these Inca steps are, I can’t help worrying about them getting injured. As some of the guys whizzed past us, a few of the more experienced porters stopped to greet us and gave us a final handshake. That was a very classy move on their part.

As all the porters ran past us, Jhon yelled “Gonzales” at them. Gonzales is a phrase Peruvian men say to each other after a long trip away from their family. Gonzales is a fictional figure who would wives while their husbands were away. To me, it seems to speak to muscular insecurity among Peruvian men. Peruvian society is known to be very patriarchal and traditional, as the Catholic Church played an important in shaping the gender roles in the country. From the sound of it, Jhon seemed cynical about the church and was eager to transfer his son to a public school.

As we inched ever closer to the destination, the quality of the trail only improved. My favorite part of the Inca Trail is an S-shaped section that winded down, creating perhaps the most beautiful pass I have ever seen. It reminded me of one of those grand staircases you would see in Disney fairytales. I can’t help wondering whether the design was just out of convenience or whether the Incas understood the visual grandeur of their design. And once again, I got to enjoy it without other tourists. I feel bad for those who had to hike this section in darkness. No matter how great the sunset is, it is not worth missing out on the beauty of the trail.

Finally, we got a beautiful view of the Machu Picchu mountain.

Hiking downhill may seem easy initially, but I quickly realized each step carried its own peril. I spent more mental energy watching my steps than taking in the beautiful scenery around me. The downhill gravity also meant there was less need for rest stops and frequent water breaks. I was glad that I had trekking poles with me for this section. It was funny that many tour operators do not rent or lend out trekking poles. I can’t even contemplate finishing the trail without mine.

In just half an hour, the cloud began to lift; the beautiful views of Machu Picchu mountain revealed itself before us. The Sun Gate still looks far from us. It was mad to think we would cover this distance in just two hours. Soon afterward, we arrived at the base of a giant electric pylon. It marks a fork in the trail, and Jhon gave us two options. We opted to stick with the official pass instead of a steeper shortcut. This morning's next stop is the impressive Intipata, or the Place of the Sun. It was mightily impressive, even from a distance.

Intipata was first discovered by archaeologists in 1992; the site was not of public interest for quite some time as it was so overgrown and nearly indiscernible from afar. It was not until a restoration project by the University of Cusco that the full glory of the site was fully revealed. Compared to the other Inca sites we visited on the trail, Intipata has almost no residential quarter. The site is entirely composed of agricultural terraces that tumbled down the hill. Given its proximity to Machu Picchu, some archaeologists stipulate that this was a major source of food production for the sacred city.

Despite its relative obscurity, Intipata was my favorite Inca site on the trail thus far. One thing that captivated all of us was the dramatic views of the river valley. The terraces tumble down the valley; they look like a perfect backdrop for religious ceremonies. I was speechless the moment I arrived. The scale of the space and pristine landscape is awe-inspiring. For the first time on the Inca Trail, I felt humbled by the Inca’s engineering ingenuity and sheer will. I could not help thinking there must be cultural or religious reasons why the Incas had to construct these hillside terraces instead of utilizing the fertile lands down in the valley.

From a calorie-based basis, the amount of harvest could never justify the manhours they put into constructing these terraces. Despite its impressive size, the actual area of arable lands is still quite limited compared to the farmlands down in the valley. After more than a week in Peruvian Andeans and visiting more than a dozen Inca sites, I am still unsure about the Inca’s obsession with mountaintop living. I imagine the Incas might have been a more prosperous empire, wouldn’t you think?

The trail first passed through the upper terrace and gradually winded down before arriving at steep staircases. The descent was dramatic. It was as if we were going to tumble down the hill. While the steps are not as tall as those on Mayan pyramids, these stairs are even more uneven. As an architect, my favorite part is the drainage channels along the sides of the staircase. Intipata is as amazing as any Mesoamerican pyramids I ever visited. To make this place even more picture-perfect, Inca experience, even a few llamas were grazing on site. I can’t help feeling very giddy about being here.

At this point, my feet have been killing me. The downhill trek was hard; I could feel my blisters developing in real-time. I could tell I was falling behind and dragging down the pace of the whole group, but Chris and Jhon were very patient with me. Thanksfully, Intipata was a great place to hang out and admire the Incas' splendors. At this hour, the sun's angle accentuates the military precision of the construction. Jhon quickly reminded us how many Inca sites have yet to be excavated in Peru, even near Macchu Picchu. The country’s potential for tourism is boundless.

From the base of Intipata, it was only a fifteen-minute hike to the Winaywayna Campsite. This is the campsite where Brian and Jill stayed last night. I marveled at just how far they hiked yesterday. This massive and sprawling camp is arguably the most popular on the Trail, as it is closest to Machu Picchu. By the time we arrived, the place was all but deserted. Because the facilities were just cleaned up, the toilets and shower facility here were in remarkably good condition this time of the day. Not seeing any other groups around almost felt eerie. We haven’t even seen any other tourists so far this morning.

And for those who stayed at this camp, they started their hike at 5:30 am. And by my calculation, we were only two hours away from the Sun Gate. Unbeknown to me then, we were only a ten-minute hike to Winaywayna, arguably the second most famous and picturesque Inca site on this trail. But for whatever reasons, we somehow bypassed it either on purpose or by accident. Judging from Jhon’s assessment, I don’t believe we were so far behind schedule. Neither was there any report of the site’s closure. In hindsight, this may be my only complaint about Jhon or Ecoinka. It seems mad to come thus far and miss out on Winaywayna; perhaps I should have done more research behind it.

This campground is organized as a series of terraces and is massive. It took me about five minutes to hike from one end to the other; I could only imagine what a bustling place this would be at the end of the day. From the camp, it was only a short stroll to Winaywayna Checkpoint. This is the final checkpoint on the Inca Trail, which made me oddly sentimental. Just as we approached the checkpoint, Jhon pointed us to a few small mammals hiding in the forest. They are coatis, a raccoon-like creature indigenous to the Peruvian Andes. About a decade ago, local farmers began breeding coatis to cultivate the Peruvian version of the infamous kopi luwak coffee from Southeast Asia.

Known colloquially as “poop coffee,” kopi luwak is traditionally “brewed” in the intestines of an Asian palm civet. Farmers collect the ingested coffee beans from their excrement, which is then cleaned and roasted. It is known for its smooth flavor profile and is by far the most expensive coffee bean in the world. Jhon has never tried this coffee; he did not even know anyone who samples the Peruvian version. However, Chris did have kopi luwak in Indonesia but found it nothing special except for the outrageous prices.

Winaywayna Checkpoint is a rather recent addition to the Inca Trail. Back in the day, many hikers would sneak into Machu Picchu in the evening while camping at Winaywayna Campsite. Unlike other checkpoints, this one is equipped with a lockable gate and is strictly controlled. Officially, the checkpoint opens at 5:30 am daily as hundreds of hikers wait to begin the final stretch to the Sun Gate. This is why a roofed waiting area is sheltering hikers from the early morning rain. Perhaps unsurprisingly, the ranger was nowhere to be seen when we arrived. After a ten-minute wait and a call, a ranger finally checked us in.

Let’s get ready with the final section of the Inca Trail.

This final stretch of the Inca Trail was true “Inca flat.” However, it was not at all strenuous. Any bodily pain and ace disappeared as we edged closer to our destination. Because we were so close to the destination, I did not feel guilty about taking a slower pace. With Machu Picchu mountain on our left side, the trail runs along the side of the Urubamba River. Down on the valley floor is a hydroelectric dam. It got me thinking about the balance between economic development and heritage protection. I can’t help wondering whether UNESCO would have taken away Machu Picchu’s heritage designation if they had built another dam in the valley. It would not be all that different from Dresden or Liverpool.

The rail line and hydroelectric plant along the Urubamba River.

Even in this last section of the trial, Jhon talked to us about the effects of climate change. One of the most noticeable changes for him is the rapid die-off of native bamboo species in the last couple of years. All along this section, we could see dried-out bamboo falling sideways, and nobody has yet to discover the cause. Speaking of Peruvian bamboo, our conversation eventually turned to Peru’s most famous cultural export: panflute. When I talked to Jhon about the popularity of the Peruvian panflute bands in the early 2000s, he brought up that one famous episode of South Park. It turned out to be one of his favorite episodes ever.

Before we knew it, we arrived at the trail's most “infamous” section. Nicknamed the “Gringo Killer,” this particularly steep section is said to be the last physical hurdle before reaching the Sun Gate. Ever since I started researching about Inca Trail, I have heard so much about the Gringo Killer. Some talked about how physically challenging it is, and some talked about it being quite dangerous. So when I was finally confronted with Gringo Killer, I was properly terrified.

Fortunately, Chris bolted ahead and finished the entire section in under two minutes. That gave me the needed confidence boost. In the end, it was not challenging at all. All I needed was to take at slower places and to utilize my hands instead of the trekking poles. Unless you are fit and agile like Chris, the ascend would be more like scaling a rocky path. Ultimately, it took me just four minutes to conquer these steps. It was funny how we all let others’ opinions get into my head. It was not nearly as bad as it looked. Like in life, the mental hurdle was often the most daunting.

Machu Picchu being a mountain-top fortress, the steep staircase, like the Gringo Killer, would be an effective defense against any incoming enemy. Like any good defensive structure, there is a gate and a viewing platform on top. Even though this particular trail is not the most “convenient” route into Machu Picchu during the Inca times, archaeologists generally agree this is the most strategic and the main commercial link between the sacred city and the Incan capital of Cusco. I could only imagine what a bustling scheme this place would have been in its golden age.

In the end, *Gringo Killer* was not that bad.

From there, it was only another five-minute hike to the Sun Gate. I had an instant flashback from our final approach to Santiago de Compostela last year. It was a mixture of excitement and melancholy all rolled into one. There was always a sliver of doubt about whether I could manage the physical demands of the Inca Trail. There was a sense of accomplishment, but I also can’t believe this once-in-a-lifetime experience was ending. Before long, I could see the Sun Gate entrance at the trail's end. Jhon and Chris went ahead of me and disappeared behind the gate. I instinctively knew I would get my first glimpse of Machu Picchu from that spot.

The view of Machu Picchu from Sun Gate (*Intipunku*).

Sure enough, I was greeted with a magnificent view of the Machu Picchu Valley and the fabled city in the distance. As famous as Sun Gate is, I had no idea what view it offers. From this spot, Machu Picchu appears to be the same size as many other Inca Sites we passed by in the past four days. Ironically, the recognizable feature was Carretera Hiram Bingham, the switchback that brings thousands of tourists to Machu Picchu daily. It may not be the most splendid view of Machu Picchu, objectively speaking, but it is a place of great significance not only for those of us who hiked the Inca Trail but also for the Incas. For the times, Chris took out his mirrorless camera. I can hardly believe he carried it for four days without using it until now.

Also known as Intipunku, the Sun Gate was the ceremonial entrance to Machu Picchu and a military checkpoint. The spot was dedicated to Inti, the Inca sun god, and is noted for its celestial alignment. During the summer solstice, the rising sun will pass through this gate. The gate comprises a generously sized room and a series of terraces. It is a wonderful spot to rest up and savor this view we came so far for. I could only imagine how crazy Intipunku was when hundreds of hikers crowded here during sunrise. Luckily, we had this place to ourselves for a solid twenty minutes. When a group of hikers eventually showed up, it almost felt like they were trespassing on our private realm.

The full splendor of Machu Picchu revealed itself in front of us.

From Intipunku, it was another twenty-minute hike to reach the center of Machu Picchu. I remembered the final episode of An Idiot Abroad, a British TV program where Karl Pilkington visited all New Seven Wonders of the World. This last episode featured Machu Picchu and had Karl walk a part of the Inca Trail as the finale. By the look of it, Karl walked the one-day version of the trail and only got to Intipunku around sunset. In case you have not heard of Karl, he was not exactly a keen traveler or easily impressed. After seeing Machu Picchu from Intipunku, he opted to see it from afar instead of making the final trek to the wonder. In the end, he did a voiceover of stock footage of Machu Picchu in the style of famous British presenter David Attenborough. It is still one of my favorite travel TV moments of all time.

Funny enough, I am pretty sure Karl did hike in the direct Machu Picchu regardless since that was still the quickest way back to civilization from this spot. After all, it was only downhill from Intipunku onward and a pleasant experience. Here, I finally got a decent signal on my phone and texted Brian about his whereabouts. Surprisingly, he had already gone on a guided tour this morning and was now waiting for us outside the ticking area. That was a great relief since we have been worried about him being able to get access to Machu Picchu with his Inca Trail ticket. I hoped he did not feel abandoned in the past few days and managed to do a little sightseeing.

From a distance, Macchu Picchu seemed completely devoid of tourists, But as we inched closer, we quickly realized just how large of a city Machu Picchu was compared to any Inca sites we visited on the trail. On our way toward the center of Machu Picchu, we passed by several stone structures that are said to have been leisure pavilions for the Inca rulers. This passageway between the city and Intipunku was only open to those hiking the Inca Trail. This was the “new” rule instituted during the pandemic, and it certainly added to the prestige of the Inca Trail. That said, Jhon was certain that the government would eventually start opening this route to day tourists by charging an additional fee.

This was the final few steps of the Inca Trail.

Because of the popularity of Machu Picchu, the government instituted various measures to limit the impact of overtourism. One crowd control measure the government devices was carving the site into different sections and creating four separate tourist circuits. It was unclear which would be the best option for first-time visitors. At the risk of over-generalization, Machu Picchu is divided into an upper and a lower section. While the lower section contains the most prominent structures of the citadel, most of the iconic photo spots are situated on the upper terraces. Many tourists booked the wrong circuits and discovered they were robbed of their iconic Machu Picchu pictures. Lucky for those who hiked the Inca Trail, we got to sample some parts of both sections. The trail ended at the upper section overlooking the citadel, and we had a separate ticket for the lower section afterward.

A postcard-perfect view of Machu Picchu.

Even though we have seen pictures of Machu Picchu countless times, I am still in awe of its majesty. The upper terrace was a perfect place to take a group selfie. Despite the excellent weather we had, noon was hardly the best time of the day for photography. Because the sun was almost directly above us, the sunlight was harsh, which washed out the color’s richness. The lack of shadow also made everything look “flatter” than otherwise. Although I can’t be bothered to wake up at three in the morning to catch the sunset, I do prefer arriving at the citadel in the late afternoon. Because of the restriction of different “circuits,” it was not possible for me to return to this spot when the sun condition improved later in the day.

As much as I love to linger around and take in the views, I felt I ought to find Brian, who waited for us patiently for the last 90 minutes. Because of the complicated ticketing system, we had to “exit” the site and re-enter with a separate ticket. To my surprise, the trek to the exit was long and unking to my raging blisters. After four days on the Inca Trail, sharing the space with hordes of well-rested day tourists was overwhelming. It made me miss the tranquility of the Inca Trail all of a sudden.

Of course, we needed an obligatory group selfie.

Immediately upon exiting, we reunited with Brian. I was so glad that he was in a pretty good mood. He spent one night in Ollantaytambo and then two nights in Aguas Calientes. Since he wasn’t sure whether they would accept his Inca Trail ticket without actually walking the trail, he has been trying to get a separate ticket as a backup option. The owner of Ecoinka, Ricky, told him that all the tickets for Machu Picchu were sold out for the next three months. Brian was stressed out by the prospect of getting so close to Machu Picchu but unable to visit. It turned out that the cultural center at Aguas Calientes has a separate batch of lat-minute tickets available for walk-in visitors.

The mountain landscape around Machu Picchu is just as amazing as the Inc ruins.

Our Inca Trail package includes a guided tour of the lower section of Machu Picchu. Chris and John would have to check their backpacks due to the package size restriction. Brian and I took the opportunity to catch up and grab a drink at the snack bar. While the prices are sky-high by all objective measures, it was nothing compared to the 20 PEN Gatorade I bought on the Inca Trail. When we met with Jhon again for the tour, he already put on his official tour guide badge. It reminded me that tour guides are serious business in Peru. To be a tour guide, John was required by the government to hold a college degree in relevant fields and an official tourism certification. It is quite a sought-after position and pays well by Peruvian standards.

As usual, the system of water channels is the most interesting part of an Inca site.

With the Inca Trail behind us, our tour of Machu Picchu felt very relaxed. We were all very impressed with Jhon’s deep knowledge of the site and the Incan culture. His passion brought the whole citadel back to life. As frugal as we often are, hiring a guide when touring ancient sites like Machu Picchu is worth hiring. We only wished we had hired a professional guide earlier at Pisac or Sacsayhuamán. That would have been very helpful to us for the rest of our trip. Since I will have a separate post just on Machu Picchu, I will skip many details about our visit.

But I must caution that the citadel had very little shade. Even with my sun hat, I struggled to stay out of the sun. Without a proper lunch, I felt thoroughly exhausted at this point. I could see why most tour operators offer an optional overnight stay in Aguas Calientes with a follow-up guided tour the following morning. But at $200 a person, the extra day was just too expensive for us. The other popular optional add-on is to hike up the nearby Huayna Picchu, which towers over the citadel like a giant monolith. Atop Huayna Picchu is believed to be the Temple of the Moon, which also served as the residential quarter of Inca high priests. But the main draw for tourists is the peak’s nearly vertical climb and dramatic vistas. If it were not for the fact that I had just finished the Inca Trail, I would want to give it a go.

Machu Picchu is a lot more impressive than I imagined.

Since Brian and Chris were keen to take an earlier train back to Cusco, we made a direct beeline to the bus stop at the entrance of Machu Picchu. We wanted to know whether we could change our train ticket to an earlier departure. The 20-minute shuttle ride cost $12 per person one way (for foreigners) and took us down the winding switchbacks of Carretera Hiram Bingham we saw earlier. After hiking for four days, I felt “naughty” after being on motorized transport; it almost felt like cheating! I also felt very conscious about how bad I smelled on the bus. I was looking forward to a hot shower in Cusco tonight.

The town of Aguas Calientes is a little bit of an oddball. Initially a camp for railway workers, the city owns its modern existence entirely to tourism and is decidedly modern. What it lacks in historical ambiance is more made up by the unabashed embrace of capitalism. The entire place is filled with tourist restaurants and cheap hotels. As its name suggests, Aguas Calientes is known for its hot spring. Many found it a perfect way to unwind after the Inca Trail. Unfortunately, we did not have the luxury of time. We got to rush to the train station to see whether we could get on an earlier train.

Despite its modern appearance, Aguas Calientes is very scenic because of the dramatic landscape.

What made Aguas Calientes so unique is the fact that there is no road connection to the outside world. Because the town relies on a single rail track for transporting supplies and tourists, it is also considered one of the most overpriced places in Peru. For foreign tourists, getting into town costs a pretty penny. The rail service is monopolized by two different companies: Inca Rail and Peru Rail. Both offer different levels of services, from local-only commuter service to ultra-luxury Hiram Bingham by Belmond. From what I could tell, there aren’t many differences between the two companies.

Our train was with Inca Rail’s Voyager service. To our surprise, they wanted to charge $75 USD for each person to change our tickets to the mid-afternoon departure. Because Chris was due to leave Peru early the next morning, he bit the bullet and hoped he would be in Cusco before sundown. It was time to give Jhon our gratuity with the tour officially over. At the last minute, I decided to slip in an additional $25 USD on the suggested tip amount. After all, that amount of money meant a lot more to him than to us.

We gathered for a celebratory pisco sour or beer after picking up our duffel bags at the local restaurant. Jhon and I talked about the aspirations of many porters. I learned that many porters aspire to become guides one day, which means having the necessary education and learning English. Even though these porters have walked the Inca Trail hundreds of times, many had never visited Machu Picchu because of the considerable cost. Similarly, Jhon has yet to be able to bring his son and wife on the trail after decades. That seemed unbelievably heartbreaking; it helped put everything in perspective and showed us how lucky Brain and I are.

After bidding farewell to Chris and Jhon, Brian took me on a little walking tour around the town. Although Aguas Calientes is not the prettiest town out there, it does have its own charm. The bustling town square and the charming church are adorable. A major festival in town last night celebrated the 15th anniversary of Machu Picchu, designated a New Seven Wonders of the World. They also had a pageant and a small parade. One could argue that the publicity campaign has done more for Peruvian tourism than anything else.

The central thoroughfare of Aguas Calientes is dominated by the rail line.

Since it was still a few hours before our train departure, we had enough time to have a nice dinner to celebrate my completion of the Inca Trail. Because there are so many tourist traps around town, Brian returned to a place he liked during his two-night stay: Julian. But as it turned out, the restaurant was closed for a private event, so they referred us to their sister restaurant, Chullos Restaurant & Craft Beer. After four days of trekking, it took me a little while to adjust to a gourmet restaurant's niceties. I felt very pampered having alpaca steak and passion fruit cheesecake.

Aguas Calientes is actually quite beautiful at night.

Before we knew it, it was time to board our train. Even though it was already half past seven, the train seemed completely sold out. We were delighted by the plush seating and the abundance of windows on the side and top of the car. Unfortunately, we wouldn’t be able to see much of the spectacular views of the Urubamba River valley. It took about two hours for the train to arrive at Ollantaytambo, and I was keen to spot the 82 Km trailhead and the Ecoinka base camp. It was crazy that a two-hour train ride covered the same distance as my multi-day trek.

Upon arrival at Ollantaytambo, we were escorted by a staff member to a fleet of minibusses to continue our journey back to Cusco. Everything ran like a well-oiled machine and I was really impressed. We got back to Cusco an hour before midnight; it was a journey of a lifetime. Although the Inca Trail did not really pan out for Brian, he seemed happy to visit a wonder of the modern world at least.

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Inca Trail: Day 5 - Puyupatamarca - Machu Picchu

Peruvian Highlands itinerary - Summer 2023

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