Oasis Town of San Pedro de Atacama

As famous as Patagonia may be, it was the majestic beauty of the Atacama Desert that drew me to Chile. Although Uyuni Salt Flat in Bolivia may be the most famous site in this corner of South America, San Pedro de Atacama is the epicenter of the tourism trade and a getaway to the Atacama region. It is one of the most sparsely populated areas in the world, so San Pedro seems like the only place with tourism infrastructure. After much debate, we spent four nights here, giving us enough time to explore the area at a leisurely pace. I wasn't sure what to expect, honestly. Would this be a hidden rural gem or another tourist trap?

Given the geographic size of Chile, the overwhelming majority arrived by flight to Calama Airport. Calam is the country’s mining capital and home to the world’s largest copper mine. But despite its importance, the city has a breadth of landmarks and tourist attractions. The guided tour at Chuquicamata Mine was the only recommended stop in town for some time. However, the tour was abruptly suspended indefinitely a few months ago. I spent considerable effort researching, and the only landmarks I could find were a modest cathedral and a Christ of the Desert statue at the edge of the town. As we saw the statue from afar, we knew it was not worth our time and effort. Regrettably, we chose to skip Calama on this visit.

San Pedro de Atacama is roughly an hour away from Calama. The highway connecting the two cities was well-maintained and a breeze to travel on. The first half of the journey was somewhat monotonous. Except for wind turbines and occasional roadside shrines, the barren landscape was remarkable. It was not until the last fifteen minutes that we understood why this area attracts so many visitors. The conical volcanos on the horizon and the lunar landscape outside the town were otherworldly. As we descended into the valley, the greenery of San Pedro emerged as a literal oasis in the driest part of the world.

At first glance, San Pedro de Atacama looks like a dusty frontier town with unpaved roads and cramped sidewalks. The mud adobe architecture reminded me of the numerous desert towns we visited in Morocco. We arrived at the town center in the middle of the day, and because of the blazing sun, San Pedro appeared almost deserted. We were taken aback by the silence and melancholic atmosphere.