The Ephemeral Landscape of El Tatio

Walking down the main thoroughfare of San Pedro de Atacama, visitors could peruse a wide range of day trip options. Among all the day trips on offer, I was most uncertain about a visit to El Tatio Geothermal Fields. El Tatio is the world’s third-largest geyser field and the largest in the Southern Hemisphere. If the travel blogosphere is believed, El Taito is probably the most popular stop in Atacama, and it is often described as “otherworldly.” Some even regard this as the most memorable part of the trip. Having been to the “original” Geyser in Iceland, I was curious to see how El Tatio stacks up.

The main drag of San Pedro de Atacama is lined with countless tour operators.

So, why was I hesitant about visiting El Taito? Because the level of geyser activity is directly related to the temperature difference with the outdoor air, most tours schedule to arrive on site at the crack of dawn. Since the sunrise was at six this time of the year, we had to leave San Pedro de Atacama before five o’clock. Driving ninety minutes through the wilderness of the Atacama high desert in total darkness seemed terrifying. Although we could let the tour operators do the driving, there are considerable downsides. There would be limited flexibility, and the pickup time would be as early as 4:15 am to allow them to pick up everyone. That just seemed unpalatable for us.

Since we already had a rental car, we decided to drive ourselves. The route to El Taito was largely unpaved. Although the roads were not illuminated, the caravan of vehicles and the Maps.me app made the drive a breeze. As we approached the plateau, I began to worry a bit for Brian. At 14,170 feet above sea level, El Taito was the highest place we visited on this trip. After our disastrous experiences at Peru’s Rainbow Mountain, I was concerned that Brian would suffer from altitude sickness again and asked me to turn the car around. Sure enough, he had the altitude meter app on and watched with horror as we crossed above 14,000 feet.

The entire park was already humming with tour buses and private vehicles when we arrived at the entrance. We were actually among the last visitors to join the ticketing lines. Even though El Taito requires no advanced reservation, the on-site ticketing system is necessarily byzantine. It took us over twenty minutes, and I worried we might miss the sunrise over the geothermal field. Ticketing system aside, the facilities at El Tatio are well-maintained, and there is no staff shortage around the premises. Considering the high altitude, I was relieved that we could drive to the geyser fields and limit the amount of walking.

The thermal activities were at its greatest in the early morning because of the temperature difference.

Set at the western foot of a series of stratovolcanoes along the Bolivian border, El Tatio represents about 8% of all known geysers in the world and is the highest-altitude geyser field in the world. Depending on the observation time and the documentation standard, there are between 110 and 400 geothermal manifestations here. Unlike the geyser fields in Iceland, El Tatio is composed of dense networks of thermal vents of various sizes and intensities. The field is organized into two zones with separate parking areas.

Our first stop was the southern geyser field. The temperature was frigidly cold at this hour. Most of us strumbled along the well-defined passageway toward the biggest column steam in the area. I must admit that the initial impression was underwhelming. Rather than regularly erupting geysers, the geothermal features primarily consist of steam vents. In the past, some geysers reached a height of over 33 feet, but most are less than 30 inches nowadays. Surprisingly, there was no sulfur smell, and they did not give up too much heat. Most of us were keen to get close and warm up, but the staff quickly pointed out the danger and the importance of standing behind the masonry barrier. Not only could the steam scald the exposed skins, but a few tourists had fallen into the caldron of boiling water in the past.

There was a palpable excitement as the sun peaked above the ridge. However, the rising temperature also means the activities would begin to wind down. One of the most popular amenities in El Tatio is a thermal spring pool nearby. Visitors should be able to enjoy a relaxing dip in the heated thermal water. Just as I regretted not bringing our bathing suits and towels, we noticed the pool was closed for maintenance. I am sure it disappointed so many visitors. On the other hand, having a hundred or so bathers might disturb the incredible tranquility of the early morning. Some visitors also reported that the pool water was only lukewarm at best, so one should not expect a pleasant experience like Iceland’s Blue Lagoon.

The second thermal field was a lot more quiet.

One of our favorite things we did was to observe our fellow visitors. Many congregated around steam vents and waited patiently to see whether geysers would suddenly erupt like a classic geyser in Iceland or Wyoming. Seeing everyone training their phone cameras for a couple of minutes before giving up was fun. Objectively speaking, the majesty of El Tatio is not rooted in any singular feature but in the scale of the surrounding landscape.

The second section of the thermal fields is a few minutes’ drive away. The sun was high in the sky by then, and some group tours were already leaving. In retrospect, I could understand how having a professional guide could be beneficial. With limited knowledge of geology, we didn’t know exactly what we were looking at. With very few plaques and information on site, we had to resort to finding information on Wikipedia. For most of us, knowing the technical terms of various formations was beside the point. Instead, the paramount importance was to slow down and observe all the geological subtlety in front of us.

The calcareous sinter formed beautiful cascades.

Although the geyser cones are the most distinctive features here, my favorite is the calcareous sinter formed at the edge of the drain pools. I found the cascades of the discharge deposits endlessly mesmerizing. It was as if god had miniaturized an epic landscape into a tabletop feature. As we walked away from the bustle of the crowd, it was amazing to stand in silence and listen to the sound of steam and trickle. I could now understand the appeal of the ASMR recording and how soothing it could be. This was one of the rare moments where one could feel that the earth was really alive.

According to a plaque in the field, El Tatio means “crying grandfather" in the Kunza language. Visitors should be able to recognize the figure of a grandfather on the horizon, and his gaze receive the waters of the rains or flood of nearby rivers. Brian and I looked long and hard and had difficulty making “him” out. Unfortunately, the picture on the plaque faded. I could not even find a photograph of this supposed grandfather online. I guess we could only take their word for it. I assume there is also a spiritual connection between El Tatio and the indigenous population.

It should not be surprising that El Tatio has always been a prime candidate for geothermal development. The geothermal field here was first scouted by Italian engineers approximately a hundred years ago. It was not until the 1960s that serious developments came to fruition. A desalination plant was planned to process precious mineral deposits in the region. However, these developments were substantively derailed by the turmoil of Pinochet’s dictatorship. A thermal well collapsed after the project was restarted in 2005, leading to widespread demonstrations against environmental, economic, and cultural impacts. Chief among the concerns are the effects on the remaining geysers. Most geologists agree that thermal development would inevitably lead to an extension of geysers. In other words, El Tatio tourism could vanish almost overnight and kill the golden goose.

Remnants of the previous geothermal development could still be seen today.

Tourism aside, El Tatio is also an important site for the scientific community. The thermal vents are home to populations of extremophile microorganisms, and the unique ecosystem is sometimes regarded as a case study of the genesis of life on Earth. It is fascinating to think we could all trace our origin to a landscape like El Tatio. This also speaks to the importance of preserving this place for future generations. The entire geothermal field has since been designated as a protected area. There has been a drive to make this a national park. Remnants of past industrial developments are still visible today; they were almost purposefully left as a reminder of the vulnerability of this delicate ecosystem.

The site was almost empty when we were ready to leave, so much so that we felt like trespassers. The visible thermal activities were diminished significantly, but it is still a magical place. It would not surprise me that the first hour of the day accounts for 95% of visitors at El Tatio. I wonder if they bother to man the ticket booth after mid-morning. Like most tourist sites around the Atacama region, El Tatio is supposedly managed by the local Indigenous community and provides valuable employment opportunities. Let’s hope the profits do not secretly go to a few influential families.

On our drive out of El Tatio, we spotted white tourist pans parked along the side of the road for breakfast. Luckily, the hotel gave us a grab-to-go breakfast bag to snack on along the way. Since we were in total darkness on the way here, we were pleasantly surprised by the spectacular scenery of the high desert plateau. The most popular stop along the way is Mirador Putana. Visitors could enjoy the oasis/lake of Putana River from the state-of-the-art roadside observation platform. The vast expense and lush greeneries in the middle of the desert was a surprise. Besides Piedras Rojas, this may be one of the most beautiful spots in the region.

I have to wonder whether this is what San Pedro looked like before the arrival of modern tourism. It was surprising that Explora had built a five-star resort or lodge at this spot. What makes Mirador Putana so lovely is the abundance of wildlife. The most noticeable inhabitants are the Andean flamingos. There were also herds of vicuña that seemingly floated on the water. A couple of travelers nearby supposedly saw two Culpeo foxes as well. Just a couple of minutes away is an even better viewpoint to get up close to the flamingos. We could also see the smoke rising from nearby volcanos at the Bolivian border.

As much as I enjoyed staying away from tour groups, their prescribed itinerary could be helpful template for independent travel. About half of these day tours would stop at Machuca on the way back to San Pedro. This small Andean village consists of about twenty traditional adobe houses and a picturesque church up on the hill. Unfortunately, there isn’t much information about this village online. With a purported population of just twenty permanent residents, Machuca is surprisingly grand and well-kept. With a giant parking lot for more than fifty tourist vans, this village’s modern existence seems entirely dependent on modern tourism. I can only imagine how quiet this village is outside the short morning rush.

Most of us are naturally attracted to the evocative parish church. With thatched roofs, a bright blue door, and a lime-washed facade, the church seems to come out of a fairytale. The brightly colored floral decorations on the cross were mesmerizing. Unfortunately, the church was only open to visitors on weekends. Based on the photos online, its interior decorations seem even more impressive than its bigger cousin in San Pedro. There. There isn’t much to see in the village except for walking through the backstreets and figuring out how many houses were vacant. It was cool to see so many solar water heaters on the rooftop.

Since Machuca was the only settlement near El Tatio, all the travelers seemed eager to return to civilization by mobbing the only shops opened for business. The most popular item is the freshly grilled vicuña kabobs. They were not cheap and did not taste especially great. But sometimes, the atmosphere and setting warranted it. In honesty, I think vicuña is a protected species in Chile, and I don’t recall ever spotting them on any restaurant menu. It was not unlike alpacas in Peru.

For those who planned a trip to El Tatio, the highlight may be a few relaxing hours at Termas de Puritama. This natural thermal stream is located only forty-five minutes north of San Pedro de Atacama and is easily the most popular half-day excursion from the city. Due to its popularity and capacity constraints, visitors must make advanced reservations and choose between a morning or afternoon slot. The admission is very steep at 36,000 CLP per adult, with a steep discount for members of the indigenous community. We debated whether it would be a worthwhile investment of our time and money.

It was a ten-minute hike down the canyon valley from the parking lot. We soon had our first glimpse of the green oasis at the bottom of the lush valley. Eight thermal pools followed the flow of the Puritama River. According to the staff, the water temperature decreased with each pool, and she encouraged us to start from pool #1 at the top and work our way down. All the pools are carefully planned out to retain their natural appearance. All the man-made structures are carefully integrated into the landscape. The architect within me could appreciate the level of thought and care that went into the design.

Two of the thermals pools of Termas de Puritama.

Thanks to the high prices and strict visitor quota, the place never felt crowded, and we felt like we were entirely immersed in nature. The surrounding landscape and greeneries made the entire experience very private and secluded. The water temperature was a lot more lukewarm than expected. It was not necessarily a bad thing, given the mid-day heat of Atacama. We spent every available minute in the water and did not even have enough time to check out all eight pools. Brian says this is the most relaxing spot on this trip, and we could easily spend a whole day here. We were waiting for the staff to kick us out of there.

Overall, we were very impressed with our experience at Termas de Puritama. The high price tag is well justified. It was not until later that the site was operated by Explora Hotels, perhaps South America’s premier luxury hospitality company. The complex is the work of noted Chilean architect German del Sol, who also designed the Explora Hotel in Atacama and Torres del Paine National Park. I need to work harder to be able to stay at one of their lodges one day.

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The Ephemeral Landscape of El Tatio

Otherworldly Landscape of Salar de Atacama

Oasis Town of San Pedro de Atacama