Colonial Elegance of Galle Fort

Sri Lanka is known for its pristine forest and beautiful Buddhist temples. I felt guilty that I was drawn to Galle, a Dutch colonial city on the southwestern coast of Sri Lanka. Like almost all international visitors, Colombo was our first stop in the country. Aside from an amazing dinner at the Ministry of Crab, our first night in Sri Lanka was not glamorous. As commonly predicted, we found Colombo difficult to love, especially in short bursts. It is wrong of me to judge a metropolis of 750,000 in 12 hours. After a horrible night of sleep at a cheap hotel, we were both eager to get out of town and start our tour of Sri Lanka.

The lovely ambiance of Colombo’s Fort Railway Station.

Unlike other recent trips, I did not plan out our transportation ahead of time. And the only transport I planned ahead of time was the train ride between Colombo and Galle. When compared to the grand colonial stations in major Indian cities, Colombo’s main station (Fort Railway Station) is a humble structure. The elegance of colonial architecture has been obscured by decades of makeshift temporary additions. Fortunately, its relatively small size made the navigation relatively straightforward. Since I did not plan ahead, I did not even ask whether a second or first classic ticket would be available.

This was only my second time taking a public train in this corner of the world. Luckily, my Asian upbringing and a short ride on Mumbai commuter rail years ago prepared me for the crowded conditions on the train. I did not doubt that the third-class tickets we got would provide an authentic travel experience. Naturally, no reserved seating existed, and every man was for himself. Despite our best efforts, we did not get to score one of the seats. The three-and-a-half-hour journey took us along the coastal rail line that hugs the coast. Despite the heat, the ocean breeze made the train ride quite pleasant.

This stretch of the railroad took a direct hit from the 2004 Indian Ocean Tsunami. Several rail cars worth of passengers were swept inland for several miles and killed hundreds of passengers. All along the route, evidence of the tsunami was still visible fifteen years later for anyone who cared to look. Honestly, I could not help but be a little nervous. The unpredictability of nature and the fragility of human life weighed on my mind. I suspect our experiences were not all that different from that fateful morning until the moment the waves hit. I could only imagine the horror and confusion of that day.

Even though I was quite pleased with the train ride, I could tell Brian was not thrilled with the experience. With no easy way to stow our luggage, navigating the crowd and the constant stream of roving vendors could be a little exhausting. It would have been a difference if we only had a tiny daypack. When we arrived at Galle Train Station, we felt relieved. It suddenly felt like our vacation only just started.

Colonial Fortifications

Galle was first mentioned in the historical record as far back as the first century. However, it was not until the arrival of the European colonizers in the 16th century. Galle was the location of the first landing of Portuguese explorer Lourenço de Almeida. The Portuguese fleet was en route to the Maldives when a storm forced them to seek shelter in this harbor. The name Galle was derived from galo, the Portuguese word for roosters. Others also suggested the name came from the Singhalese word for rock, galla.

The Old Gate with the coat of arm of the Dutch East India Company.

Following disputes with the Kingdom of Kandy in the island's center, the Portuguese constructed a small fort of Santa Cruz in 1589. Despite a series of expansions and upgrades, the Portuguese fortification was bulldozed after the Dutch captured Galle with the help of the Kandyan forces. The natural harbor adjacent to Galle Fort became the most important trading port for the Dutch East India Company (Vereenigde Oost-Indische Compagnie or VOC). It not only gave them easy access to Sri Lanka’s vast cinnamon plantations, but the port also provided a strategic naval base linking Asia with the Middle East and a handy base for wrestling away other Portuguese settlements in South Asia.

My personal favorite spot in Galle Fort is the Old Gate. This wall section is painted yellow and has a wonderfully faded patina. Above the gate bears the coat of arms of the Dutch East India Company and two supporting lions of Nassau. Together with the bustling traffic of tuk-tuks and motorbikes, it is a wonderfully atmospheric corner of the fort. On the other side of the gate, we could still see the coat of arms of Great Britain. I always appreciate that these historic markers were not removed from historical acrimony. Instead, they were there as witnesses to the historical complexity of Sri Lanka.

Galle Lighthouse is definitely the most “Instagramed” spot in Galle Fort.

The Dutch constructed their fortification to encompass the entire perimeter of the peninsula and included 14 bastions of coral and granite stone. Designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1998, Galle Fort is said to be one of the best examples of European fortified settlements in Asia. The old town was laid out as a grid with military precision within the fortified walls. Covering an area of approximately 130 acres, the fortification is still in an amazing state of preservation. Walking along the rampart is the most popular activity for locals and tourists. And it seemed like the most popular spot was at the peninsula's southern tip. The Galle Lighthouse, dated back to 1848, is the oldest in Sri Lanka and a photogenic spot for social media-obsessed youth.

Just a short distance away is the so-called Flag Rock, the southernmost point of the fort and a former bastion. It jots out from the rest of the form, and the Dutch used to fire muskets from this spot to warn any incoming ship that sailed too close to the nearby rock. It is now the most popular spot to watch the sunset. Although beaches around Galle Fort are mostly rocky, with only a few short sections of sand, it did not deter the locals from dipping in the ocean. Although the water may seem beautiful today, the city bore the brunt of the devasting 2004 tsunami. Thanks to the Dutch fortification, the old town suffered only minor damages, while the waves completely bulldozed the modern part of the city outside of the wall.

The idyllic rampart of the Star Bastion.

Galle remained the busiest port on the island for over two hundred years. It was not until the arrival of the British that Colombo replaced Galle as the main commercial port of Sri Lanka. Interestingly, the best-preserved section of the fortification is at its northwest, and it also happens to be the least visited. The star-shaped bastion is incredibly picturesque. Compared to the popular rampart in the south, this section of the walls housed many administrative functions for the Dutch. This spot was also a “lively” slave quarter and a sizable prison. According to scholars, over 15,000 Africans were brought in by the Dutch colonists to construct the fortification. The narrow cells of slave accommodation survive to this day; it was worth the detour to reflect on the brutal realities of European colonialism.

Before ending the walking tour of the Galle’s fortification, stopping at the nearby Galle Clock Tower is important. It is a popular landmark that stood on the site of a former guard quarter. The tower was a gift by a local to pay his gratitude to Peter Daniel Anthonisz, a Galle-born physician known for his compassion and political skills. Nationally, Anthonisz is known as the first person of Sri Lankan descent to be a member of the British Medical Association and the inaugural president of the Ceylon Branch of the British Medical Association.

The Multicultural Galle

For me, Galle perfectly encapsulates modern Sri Lanka, a nation of immigration and a complex colonial past. From the local Singhalese, Dutch, Muslim to the British, each group left its own distinctive marks on this tiny peninsula of 900 residents. At first glance, all I saw was a beautiful colonial city with elegant architecture. But piercing just beyond the facade, anyone could decode Galle’s history into overlapping strata.

Sri Lanka - 5.jpg — Groote Kerk, the Dutch Reformed Church.

Galle is known for its concentration of colonial architecture as a European colonial settlement. One of the most distinguished structures was Groote Kerk, the Dutch Reformed Church. Constructed in 1755, it is the oldest protestant church in Sri Lanka still with an active congregation. Being the main church of the Dutch colonists, it occupies the highest ground inside the fortification. The commander of Galle founded its construction as a way to give thanks for the birth of their daughters. They decided to wait for the church to be consecrated before baptizing their child.

The church is highly unusual in its architectural appearance. Even as someone who has seen plenty of churches, this one has been stuck in my mind ever since. The church has a Latin-cross plan but with a very short transept. The Baroque facade is decorative with this unusual swirl pattern, which creates an unusual anthropomorphic effect. The dark-color stained glass window on the interior gave it a rather gloomy atmosphere. On the walls were numerous wall plaques, and the floors were clad with tombstones from the old Dutch cemetery. In the church's forecourt are many tombstones, which neatly line the perimeter of the walls.

In case you were wondering why everything looked so organized? Groote Kerk received financial assistance for restoration from the Dutch government in the early 2000s. The restoration was completed just one month before the 2004 tsunami. The restoration of this church has been so successful that UNESCO has cited it for best practices in historical preservation. Groote Kerk was a model for restoring the entire Galle Fort after the tsunami. In many ways, the tsunami acted as a catalyst in reviving Galle’s historical heritage. Over the past two decades, tourism has become Galle's economic engine.

All Saints’ Church, the Anglican congregational church of Galle Fort.

Just a block away from Groote Kerk is the All Saints' Church, the second most prominent church in Galle Fort. This is the main Anglican church of Galle and a major symbol of British rule. It is often regarded as the best example of English ecclesiastical architecture in Sri Lanka. But I must admit that the heavy Victorian Gothic structure looks a little out of place in the heat and humidity of Galle. Rest assured, the church interior felt musty and damp. Though a beautiful structure, the church had a sinister past. A courthouse once stood at this location, and it was said that the spot of the alter today was the location of the gallows.

Victorian Baroque details of Meeran Jumma Mosque.

Today’s Galle Fort is noted for its proportionally large number of Sri Lankan Moors. Even though Muslims constitute less than 10% of the national population, their identity is a synthesis of Arab, Tamil, and Sinhalese cultures. It was not uncommon to see residents in abaya and hijab. Without question, the most important Muslim landmark in Galle would be Meeran Jumma Mosque. Situated just across the street from the Galle Lighthouse, the mosque stood out from the gridded city due to its orientation to Mecca. It is unlike any other mosque I have ever seen. Designed in a Baroque and Victorian style mishmash, it resembles a cathedral, except for the Arabic script and the Islamic crescent on the facade.

Interestingly, Galle’s Buddhist architectural heritage is quite difficult to spot. The only Buddhist temple appears to be Sri Sudharmalaya Buddhist Temple, which is quite diminutive compared to the nearby churches and mosques. Nevertheless, the traditional multi-color banners of Buddhism were all around the town. Watching these colorful flags flapping in the gentle breeze reminded us we were in Sri Lanka.

A Place of Dream

Galle would get my vote for the best place to unwind in Sri Lanka. Compared to the capital, Colombo, Galle seemed like a world away. As soon as our tuk-tuk whisked up past the main gate of Fort, the intensity of the modern city gave way to gentility. Lining the streets are rows of whitewashed mansions with shuttered windows and grand verandas. Walking down the cobbled streets, I could almost expect a colonial official to emerge from one of these villas.

Except for cars and motorbikes, little seemed to have changed physically. From the cobbled street to the traditional red-tiled roof, Galle escaped the wrath of urban dereliction or unchecked redevelopment. Though I am not certain it resulted from effective regulations, I was amazed by the absence of soul-wrecking international chains like McDonald’s or Starbucks.

One of the most beautiful building on Pedlar Street.

Even decades after independence from Great Britain, Galle is still largely under the influence of foreigners. By some sources, almost half of the private homes are still owned by those of European descent. In the past fifteen years, foreign tourist arrivals into Sri Lanka have jumped fivefold. Galle seems to be the poster child of Sri Lanka’s ascend as an international travel hotspot. Nowadays, this former colonial town has been transformed into Sri Lanka’s premier cosmopolitan enclave, filled with boutique shops and fine art galleries. Entrepreneurial locals and foreign investors have snatched up every other structure in town.

Several historical landmarks, such as the Old Dutch Hospital, have been meticulously renovated and converted into upscale eateries and shops. However, the rejuvenation of Galle is far from complete. Around town, we saw many signs warning people of the structural deficiencies of various houses and walls. But based on all the restoration efforts we saw, I think Galle would be in relatively good hands going into the future.

Because of its compact layout, Galle is best experienced on foot. Aside from a leisure stroll along the ramparts, the main commercial drag, Pedler Street, is a delightful place to enjoy the lively ambiance. With many souvenir shops and restaurants, central Galle may sometimes feel just a little too touristy. Fortunately, the essence of authentic Galle was still alive and well. Besides the churches and mosques, Galle Fort is also home to many important civic institutions, such as governmental courthouses and schools. Thanks to these places, Galle Fort still draws in throngs of locals from the modern section of Galle.

The Bank of Ceylon building at the main roundabout of Galle Fort.

After an afternoon of shopping, walking through Galle's “back streets” was the perfect antidote to Western consumerism. Despite the influx of Western tourists, Galle is no Venice. While catering to foreign visitors, Galle remains an active residential neighborhood. One of my favorite experiences was walking by the local Islamic school and overhearing children reciting texts after their teachers. That sound was just something magical, and it reminded me of my early schooling back in Taiwan. It was also here in Galle Fort that I had the opportunity to introduce Brian to the concept of “singing garbage truck,” another social ritual we also had in Taiwan.

All Saint’s College Boy School of Galle Fort.

An undeniable highlight during our visit to Galle would be our accommodation: The Bungalow Galle. This six-room boutique hotel is set within a beautifully restored villa and perfectly balances style and coziness. Even without attention-grabbing amenities such as a pool or rooftop bar, it is our favorite hotel in Sri Lanka. From the moment we arrived, we were treated like royalty. The service was attentive without pretentious; it felt like we were guests in a colonial villa. But the biggest surprise was the attached hotel restaurant. They served up some of the best meals we had in the country.

Besides being a wonderful accommodation, the hotel connected us to our driver, Pula. After our experience with public transport from Colombo a few days earlier, Brian and I knew that public transportation was not for us, given the pace of my planned itinerary. Even trying to reach our next stop, Ella, gave me a headache. Per recommendations from our friends and guidebooks, small independent hotels are often a good travel resource, which includes referring great drivers and tour guides.

Honestly, I have been sweating about how to find a driver without any prior research or arrangement. Like countries across this part of the world, businesses are conducted by word of mouth. I was amazed that the staff managed to find a driver overnight for a 9-day assignment. Pula ended up being a big part of our trip. Although he is not a professional camera, his kindness and friendliness warmed our hearts. For that, I am forever grateful to the staff at The Bungalow Galle.

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Colonial Fortifications

The Multicultural Galle

A Place of Dream

Laulupidu - The Opening Parade

Dambulla - Cave Temple & Modern Oasis