Dambulla - Cave Temple & Modern Oasis
To round up our final day of a tour of Sri Lanka's Cultural Triangle, we set our eyes on the Golden Temple of Dambulla, this trip's final UNESCO World Heritage Site. Just a stone's throw away from the Lion Rock of Sigiriya, the town of Dambulla is sometimes overlooked by travelers. The town's claim of fame is the largest and best-preserved cave temple in Sri Lanka. After we visited Polonnaruwa and Anuradhapura a few days prior, visiting a cave temple was quite a refreshing change in pace. As much as I love a good giant stupa, it gets repetitive. As much as we enjoyed visiting all the great World Heritage Sites, we were glad this will be the last one on the list. The cave temple was the only item on the agenda for our day.
Rangiri Cave Temple of Dambulla
Our driver dropped us off at a nondescript entry just off the main road of Dambulla. It took us a minute or two to locate the inconspicuous ticket booth amid the hillside. At 1,500 LKR, the admission to the temple was pricy but not as outrageous as at Sigiriya. We began the 10-minute steep climbs through the staircase just past the ticket booth. Along the way, we were greeted by several toque macaques attempting to steal bananas from a bystander. The view opened up a quarter of a way up from the top. Between the bushes, we were able to see Sigiriya from the distance. Before we knew it, we arrived from the entry terrace of the cave temple. As per custom, we left our shoes at the dedicated shoe storage, which incurs a 25 LKR fee. Since the terrace is composed of polished bedrock, the radiant heat was unbearable on our bare feet.
The cave temple is tucked away underneath a cliff face.
These caves became the place of worship in the 1st century BC when King Valagamba took refuge here after he escaped from the invasion of Anuradhapura by South Indian tribes. Legend states that the King thanked his place of refuge and constructed a formal temple upon his return to Anuradhapura. The deep overhanging of the cliff above helped to preserve the splendidness. Through the millennium, subsequent monarchs added to the frescos and statues to show their devotion. As such, the cave temple was never abandoned and is often described as the best edifice of ancient Sri Lanka.
Spectacular view toward Sigiriya.
Spectacular view toward Sigiriya.
Climbing the steps.
Just past the white entrance, a series of five caves are laid out in quick succession. The white colonnade we see nowadays is a relatively modern addition to provide further protection from the elements. The first cave we entered was the Lord of God’s Temple (Devarajalena Vihara). The moderately-sized cave contains a massive 45-foot Buddha in a sleeping position. At the foot of the Buddha is a statue of Venerable Ananda, a devoured follower of Lord Buddha. The second chamber, Cave of the Great Kings (Maha Raja Vihara Lena), is the largest and most impressive cave temple.
Named after King Valagamba and King Nissankamalla, the cave is approximately 125 ft and 75 ft. It is large and tall enough to house a decent stupa and numerous statues. The most prominent feature is a life-size granite statue of Buddha. On the right side of the cave, an urn was placed in a fenced area to catch the dripping water. The water is drained away in an underground channel to avoid moisture buildup. It is a form of version and moisture control that has worked for centuries.
Notice the laid carpet to avoid the heat of the pavement.
Reclining Buddha of the first cave.
Every square foot of the sloping roof of the cave is covered with elaborate murals. The pitch of the ceiling was just shallow enough to make a dramatic viewing. The golden appearance radiates throughout the cavernous space. Being in this space was a weird sensation. I felt both sacred and terrifying; it was as if all the Buddhist imagery of both hell and heaven were pressing down above us. The rigidity of these religious imageries inhibited this organic cave in such a magical fashion. I agree that this is among the most splendid religious spaces on the island.
Splendid and radiant ceiling of the second cave.
The loggia is integrated gracefully as if it was built more than a millennium ago.
Elaborately carved dragon archway.
The third cave next door was the Cave of New Temples (The Maha Alut Viharay), constructed much later in the 18th century. This crowning jewel is a 30-foot reclining Buddha carved out of the bedrock. In addition to numerous smaller statues inside this cave, another point of interest here is the elaborately carved stone arches, filled with dragons, at the entrance. The final two caves are quiet and considerably smaller. Coincidentally, we didn't see them as both caves were occupied by monks and gathering pilgrims, both locals and foreigners. Even though we didn't spend much time in these final caves, it gave us an atmospheric feeling of how these cases are meant to be experienced.
Visiting school children wearing white to show their devotion.
Our appreciation for the cave temple was limited due to our lack of understanding of Buddhist history and symbolism. But it was not difficult to admire the artistic splendor of the spaces. Seeing pictures alone will never replace the experience in person. You sense a change in humidity and acoustic as you enter these caves. It is difficult to summarize in words or a photograph. What was clear was just how much of an active religious pilgrimage site Dambulla Cave Temple remains to Sri Lankans. As we exited the temple, we met a group of visiting students, all dressed in white to show their piety and purity. Unlike kids in the West, these children seemed genuinely excited to visit a religious site. As in any traveling experience, the people we encountered made the biggest impression on us.
The buddha statues ringing the stupa at the second cave.
Looking great, Brian!
Instead of descending the same staircase, we followed the crowd toward the giant Buddha statue. It was a leisurely 15-minute walk downhill via a stately staircase. Not before long, a giant golden Buddha statue appeared on the left. It was part of a modern and gregarious temple building, perhaps one of the most grotesque structures I have seen. Since it is not practical for all the monks to worship within the ancient cave temple, this "Golden Temple" was built in 2000 as an educational facility and the living quarters of the residing monks. As horrible as looking at this modern structure is, the odd decorations are quite a delight to gawk at. The beast with the undulating front paws is quirky.
Joyous monks leaving the temple.
Is it a sacrilege thing to say but it looks like the Buddha is sitting on a toilet from the staircase down from the Cave Temple.
The stupa at the Golden Temple downhill.
Anyone interested in visiting the ancient cave temple is advised not to enter via the Golden Temple since the admission booth is located at the other entrance. It seems a common mistake since the cave temple is often mislabeled as the "Golden Temple of Dambulla.” I would hate for anyone to mistake this modern monstrosity for a must-see cultural site of Sri Lanka. Well, I hope not!
Heritance Kandalama
After visiting the cave temple, we concluded our trip's "cultural" part. We attempted the maximum relaxation the country offers for the next two days. We typically indulged ourselves in fabulous accommodation until the end of the trip. And I just had such a place in mind when I first planned our trip. Coincidentally, one of the best hotels in the country is located just 15 minutes away from Dambulla's Cave Temple.
Heritance Kandalama may not be the most extravagant accommodation in the country, but it is the nicest place we stayed during this trip. But I do have to admit that I was first made aware of this hotel from the Australian TV show Travel Guides. In the episode, all the participants were in awe of the beauty and ingenuity of the place. So, when I knew we were visiting Sri Lanka, I prioritized staying here. Set against the mountainside next to the Kandalama Reservoir, the hotel is well situated in unspoiled nature. There were no visible man-made structures miles around, except for a few transaction towers in the distance. As our car approached the hotel on the dirt road, we saw an old man walking a domestic elephant past us. While it might be a common sight in India, it was rare in Sri Lanka.
Dramatic and elegant entry to the hotel.
Ultimate integration between landscape and architecture.
The hotel was designed by Sri Lankan architect Geoffrey Bawa, who is among Asia's most influential and widely admired architects. I distinctly remember when I took my first architecture history class in high school; I noticed a picture of the Parliament of Sri Lanka in Kenneth Frampton's book. That image of the Parliament House and the name Geoffrey Bawa stood out in my mind. Fast forward sixteen years, and his masterpiece suddenly appeared on my trip itinerary. Known as the master of Tropical Modernism, Bawa's architecture injects modernist sensibility and language with the local vernacular.
That is one of the most beautiful infinity pools out there.
The nearly mile-long hotel is among Bawa's largest built projects but does not have the characteristic shingled pitched roof typical in Sri Lanka. Instead, the building's design vocabulary is more consistent with what you expect from internationalist architects like Mies van der Rohe and Philip Johnson. The black steel skeleton structure is covered with the vast expense of curtain walls. But he works magic by inserting moments of organic forms such as natural bedrock or curvilinear walls that guide the circulation. But the brilliance of this place was the incorporation of natural flora and fauna into the architecture.
Juxtaposition of the modern and the organic.
Bring the nature into the guestroom' bathroom.
Like most upscale establishments, the check-in at all Heritance was done in the lounge area. The dramatic view of the Kandalama Reservoir greeted us and immediately put us at ease. We could easily spot Sigiriya in the distance. Cold towels and a cart of freshly squeezed juices set the experience apart. Each guest room, including ours, offers a great lake view. What made these rooms special was the vine-covered trellis gracing the facade of the guest wing. The hanging vegetation frames the lovely view of the lake, and you feel immersed in the jungle, albeit in the comfort of a jacuzzi tub. Even more gratifying is the abundance of wildlife inhabiting the periphery of the hotel rooms. In particular, visits from monkeys are particularly frequent. A sticker is fixed to each patio door, warning guests not to leave these doors open and unattended.
What a welcoming view as they check you in.
The hotel's interior was revamped in the late 1990s and was done tastefully to acknowledge traditional elements. The tiles inside the bathroom were particularly lovely. Taking a lovely long bath while gazing at Sigiriya is a must. While the guest room decor was on point, the basic maintenance seemed rough in places. Perhaps due to the high expectations generated by the world-class architecture, our dinner experience at their flagship dining space, Kanchana Restaurant, was also a little bit of a letdown. Fortunately, the restaurant redeemed itself the next day with a scrumptious breakfast buffet.
Green roof and rock terrace.
Overall, our stay at Heritance Kandalama was short but sweet; we didn't really get to try out many of the amenities and activities the hotel offers. With three swimming pools on the premises, the highlight of our stay must be a vista along the edge of the infinity pool just off the terrace cafe. Because we visited during the wet season, the water level was high enough to submerge most of the surrounding meadows, which was quite a shame. During the dry season, the meadow around the lake is teemed with roaming cattle and the occasional elephant herd. While there was no elephant, we observed a gang of monkeys among the trees just beyond the infinity edge.
You can't ask for a more peaceful setting.
For those interested in sustainability, Heritance Kandalama was the first hospitality project outside of the United States to earn a LEED certification. In the age of greenwashing nowadays, I could be quite skeptical of a building's sustainability claim. But in this instance, I have no hesitation in calling this the "greenest" hotel I have ever stayed at. As somebody not generally fond of the tropical environment, I am surprised at how much I enjoyed our stay. For once, I don't mind enjoying the outdoors.
