Majesty of Jebel Shams & Jabal Al Akhdar
Despite researching Oman extensively before our trip to Oman, both Brian and I were slightly apprehensive about whether we might be bored of being in the desert for two weeks. As ignorant as we may be, our initial impression of Oman was sand dunes and coastal cities. Little did we know that Oman has some of the highest peaks on the Arabian peninsula, and the country’s mountain offers some of the most stunning vistas anywhere in the Middle East. While the mountain ranges of Oman are not exactly a well-kept secret among international travelers, they are underrated. After two weeks in the country, we honestly could say the mountainous interior was a highlight of our time in Oman.
For anyone visiting Oman outside of the winter high season, you might be exhausted from the heat in much of the country. The high mountain range would offer the much-needed respite from the heat. We count ourselves lucky for dodging the oppressing heat and humidity of the Middle East throughout our trip. Rather, we packed winter coats, anticipating the near-freezing temperature of these peaks.
Jabal Al Akhdar - Oman’s “Green Mountain”
Following our overnight stay in Nizwa, I was eager to explore Oman’s vast interior. The mountain pass to Jabal Al Akhdar started at Birkat Al Mouz, my favorite ruined village in Oman. At the foothill of the mountain is Jabal Al Akhdar Castle, a squad fortress that once guarded this important trade route to the interior. Like many others in the sultanate, the fortress was renovated under Sultan Qaboos's decree and is now open to the public as a heritage museum. Unfortunately, it was closed during the morning of our visit. But it was nevertheless a beautiful sight as it sat firmly in front of the mountain range.
Bayt Ar Ridaydah guards the entry of the modern mountain pass to Jabal Al Akhdar.
The road to Jabal Al Akhdar is an impressive modern infrastructure project. In 2006, a modern expressway opened with great fanfare. It replaced a grueling 6-hour trek up a steep trail. According to our guidebook, the locals keep a special breed of donkeys with a special temperament and heightened endurance to make the arduous trek. The new road shortens the route to just 40 minutes and is unique in Oman. It was the only non-military roadway with a police checkpoint. Although it may sound sketchy, the Royal Oman Police are not there to check for terrorists or drugs. Rather, they are there to make sure all cars on this road are 4WD vehicles and would be capable of making the climb.
Indeed, this is the only section of paved road that would require 4WD. So it might be worth factoring that in when planning your itinerary and car rental. Getting a 4WD just for this little day trip may not be worthwhile. As far as I could tell, this was the steepest section of roads we ever traveled. Supposedly, it is essential to carry at least half a tank of gas because the steep slope of this road makes it a gas-guzzler of a ride. Even though the road was already a dozen years old by then, it still looked spankingly new. The hairpin turns to make this drive particularly scenic.
The terraced fields of Jabal Al Akhdar.
The views from Sayd Plateau.
The peace and tranquility of Sayd Plateau.
Meaning “Green Mountain” in Arabic, Jabal Al Akhdar could seem like an obvious misnomer. The greenery is strictly confined to the terraced fields of a handful of villages near the edge of the Sayd Plateau. Because of the high altitude, these villages are “cold” enough to grow many fruits and valuable crops that would have been impossible elsewhere in Oman. In particular, roses and pomegranates from here are highly sought after in the country. Their popularity helps in keeping these villages alive. Overall, there are about 58 different villages scattered around Jabal Al Akhdar.
Some of the most picturesque spots are located at the canyon's rim. A convenient trekking route laces together three picturesque villages: Al Aqr, Al Ayn, and Ash Shirayjah. The terraced fields along the side of the canyon are truly mesmerizing. Although I visited the tea field terrace in Sri Lanka and Taiwan, seeing them in a high desert environment was entirely something else. The fields are fed by natural springs and Oman’s elaborate falaj system. And because these villages are still working farmsteads with traditional values, there are signposts outside of each village forbidding tourists with shorts or tank tops from entering. Unfortunately, we did not heed the advice in the guidebook and only found out about it on the spot.
The amazing vista from Diana Point.
Without question, the most famous spot in Jabal Al Akhdar would be an observation point that is commonly known as the Diana Point. As the name suggested, this is an alleged spot that Diana, the Princess of Wales, and Prince Charles visited during the royal visit to Oman in 1986. They were flown in a helicopter and spent six hours at this spot enjoying the splendid view of the canyon and terraced field. Prince Charles did some paintings here while the Princess did some reading. From what I could gather, this was a leisurely getaway for the royal couple.
I still couldn’t find any photographic documentation of their time here. Like any site associated with Princess Diana, the exact timeline or details of her visit are almost moot at the end of the day. After all, I doubt she had much control over her itinerary before the divorce. But I must admit that whoever picked these spots did a masterful job. This is one of the best views of Oman, and we were both in awe of its sheer beauty. Most amazingly, we pretty much had this whole place all to ourselves.
I am afraid it was only a matter of time until these villages are transformed into a town of Airbnb rentals.
On the left of the viewpoint is a high bluff home to the five-star Anantara Al Jabal Al Akhdar Resort. The massive hotel is one of the most luxurious in the sultanate and is a project funded directly by the government. Oman has been very careful with its tourism development and emphasizes cultivating high-end tourism. This resort is a major component of this effort. The government spared no expense and was conceived as a major economic driver of the Jabal Al Akhdar. We were taken by just how majestic-situated the hotel is as we stood at Diana Point. We immediately regret not booking a night here; it would be a worthwhile upgrade from our bizarre Airbnb house in Nizwa. At about $200 a night, staying there is an expensive proposition. But it is one place that I would suggest splurging.
Anantara Al Jabal Al Akhdar Resort perches handsomely atop of the cliff.
A few years after our trip, we stumbled upon a BBC documentary series, Amazing Hotels: Life Beyond the Lobby. The program visits many of the world’s best hotels and looks to explore the lives of those who made these amazing places run. We were both beyond excited to come across an episode for this hotel. Aside from highlighting the resort’s architecture and beautiful vistas, the program also documents how a modern luxury hotel transforms the humble villages around it. What is particularly nice to learn is that the hotel employs many Omani women in management positions. While that may not be particularly interesting in much of the world, it was sadly a rarity in the Middle East.
The abandoned home in the village of Bani Habib.
An interesting snippet of a piece of indigenous wood carving.
The original wall painting at Bani Habib is considered some of the most vivid in Oman.
Since we could not do the village trek because of inappropriate clothing, we took a short hike to a nearby village called Bani Habib. A steep 10-minute hike down a ravine brought us to a crumbling old village that still clings to the face of the steep valley. The village was abandoned roughly forty years ago and has become a popular stop for foreign visitors. So, surprisingly, the government has not undertaken any initiative to preserve it. The village was remarkably well-preserved because of the arid climate, with many original furnishing intact. Most special of all is the indigenous wall painting on the interior. I was surprised by their rudimentary beauty.
The crumbling home in the village of Bani Habib.
The crumbling home in the village of Bani Habib.
The wall paintings here are sometimes referred to as some of the most beautiful and colorful in the country. We felt very privileged that we got to glimpse these works before they got lost in the attrition of time. Thankfully, there was no sign of vandalism, and I hope they will be properly documented if not preserved. The village itself is filled with all sorts of architectural details and carvings. As wrong as it may sound, it almost felt irresponsible not to snap them up as souvenirs. That said, such behaviors would be criminal.
Jebel Shams - The Grand Canyon of Arabia
Besides Jabal Al Akhdar, Jebel Shams is another famous mountain peak in Oman. Translated as the Mountain of the Sun in Arabic, it is the tallest peak in the country, thus being the first place to receive the first ray of sun in Oman. With it, there is almost a mystical quality to the visit. At the risk of sounding like a hippie, I felt we were making a pilgrimage to a sacred site. As much as I enjoyed our visit to Jabal Al Akhdar a few days prior, we were looking forward to moments of solitude.
Jebal Misht is unquestionably the most handsome and dramatic peak in the sultanate.
From Nizwa, it was a two-hour drive to the summit. The road to Jebel Shams was particularly scenic. Among the most beautiful views is that of Jebal Misht, or the Comb Mountain. The limestone mountain stood apart from the surrounding landscape and seemed to emerge from the ground by magic. A few days later, I got to admire the majesty of Jebal Misht up close on my visit to the famous beehive tombs at Al-Ayn. It was probably my favorite spot in all of my years of travel.
Unlike Jabal Al Akhdar, Jebel Shams does not have the same infrastructure level. There was barely any traffic on this road. Halfway up the mountain, the asphalt turned into gravel tracks, and it felt like a real adventure. Along the way, we drove past numerous valleys and abandoned villages. Despite the rugged landscape, no 4WD vehicle is required because the gravel tracks were not particularly steep. I saw several sedan cars on this road, but having a large vehicle makes the drive more enjoyable.
A dusty ascent toward Jebel Shams.
Before we knew it, we arrived at the rim of Al Nakhur Canyon just before sunset. The canyon is often called the “Grand Canyon of Arabia.” Having been to the Grand Canyon in the United States, I can attest that this canyon is just as impressive and beautiful. Of course, Al Nakhur Canyon is not nearly as wide as its American counterpart. But ironically, its narrow width makes it appear deeper and more foreboding. I have even read somewhere that this is the second deepest canyon in the world, after the Grand Canyon. Even from the edge of the rim, it was impossible to see the bottom, and the devil inside wanted to throw a pebble down the bottom.
The sublimity of this place was overwhelming. This may be the quietest place both of us have been. It crystallized why Oman is so special and remains our favorite travel destination. Years later, Brian still talked about this moment. Eve, for non-believers like us, the silence and majesty of the Jebel Shams was a spiritual experience. The warm glow of the canyon walls was everchanging, and we counted ourselves lucky to be able to see this beautiful corner of the Middle East.
Al Nakhur Canyon.
It was the ideal location for private meditation.
Brautifcul colors of Al Nakhur Canyon.
No villages or tourism amenities exist because much of Jebel Shams is either protected as a nature reserve or part of an active military installation. Luckily, the only real hotel here was excellent. Sama Heights Resort is billed as Oman’s first eco-resort, combining the rustic charm of Oman with just the right level of modern amenities. We were pleasantly surprised that we were given a complementary (and unprompted) upgrade to their “mountain view chalet.” We couldn’t remember the last time we got a free upgrade for anything. From our chalet veranda, we were able to have a glimpse of the canyon afar and the starry night above. This resort may not be the poshest place we ever stayed, but it was a place we will always remember.
We certainly enjoyed our stay in the mountain view chalet at Sama Heights Resort.
After a scrumptious breakfast buffet, we were ready to explore the Jebel Shams. No visit to this area would be complete without hiking the famous W6 Route. Also known as the “Balcony Walk,” this 6-mile roundtrip route is well-established and is regarded as one of the best treks in the country. As the name suggests, the trail follows the contour of the canyon, and it feels like walking along a multi-mile-long balcony. Honestly, the trial could feel quite scary in places for those with acrophobia. I was pleasantly surprised that Brian was able to enjoy this hike. The trail looks more daunting than it was.
This was by far my favorite view of Jebel Shams.
Shades were in short supply during the morning hours.
The cairn and the way marker for the W6 Route.
This trail was well maintained and marked by red-white-yellow markers. Because the trail follows along the side of the canyon the entire way, it is almost impossible to get off the trail or be lost. One thing we wished to have done differently would be the time of the day for the hike. I would suggest making this trek in the afternoon when this side of the canyon is in the shade since this is a high desert environment. There weren’t many natural shades available for hikers. Bringing a hat and plenty of drinking water would be essential if you embark on this journey. We must admit we were awfully ill-prepared, but it was a wonderful experience.
The majesty of the Balcony Walk.
The Balcony Walk definitely injected a sense of adventure!
The majesty of the Balcony Walk.
As they often say, the journey is more important than the destination. While I do not necessarily disagree, a great destination doesn’t hurt. For Balcony Walk, the destination is an abandoned village occupied as recently as the 1960s. One of these villages is As Sab, which is still in remarkable condition. The village is just large enough to accommodate about a dozen families. It is remarkable to think that people used to trek an hour or more alone to go anywhere and how tough life must have been all those decades ago. Along the way, we met an Omani man who told us that his grandmother was among the last residents to leave the village! That was perhaps one of our most amazing encounters on this trip.
Abandoned homes of As Sab.
An amazing carving we discovered at an abandoned home in As Sab.
Abandoned homes of As Sab.
Like Bani Habib, the original architectural details of many houses are still in place. In particular, I spotted a beautifully carved piece of wooden lintel with a wonderful carving. It was scattered on the ground. We almost felt the obligation to pick it up and preserve it somehow. Of course, we certainly did not do that and risk getting arrested. And like any old Omani village, As Sab would not exist without the presence of a falaj. Sure enough, we found an irrigation channel and spotted a trickle of water flowing through it. By then, we had been to enough abandoned towns to know we should follow the falaj eventually, which led us to a medium-sized pool, where the water is collected from a spring above.
Following the falaj of As Sab.
The terrace field of Jebel Shams.
Just beyond the pool was a series of cascading terraces that were once fertile grounds. They are reminiscent of the fields we saw at Jabal Al Akhdar or Machu Picchu. They were a fitting destination for our Jebel Shams visit. Little did we know much later that an upper pool was located just above the terraced field. That pool was big and deep enough for a swim. We kicked ourselves for missing out on a special swimming spot.
The scale of the cliff face definitely obscures the trail.
The herds of wild goats along the Balcony Walk.
Sorry, buddy! We did not have any snack with us.
Speaking of the trek, one of the most unique encounters was the goats of Jebel Shams. They are infamous here for following hikers around just in case they could get some snacks. We were surprised just how persistent they are. Our goat followed us for over 90 minutes and back to the parking area. I felt bad for not feeding the guy and wasting her time. It was a creepy feeling to be followed by her beady eyes. When we thought we had lost her, she would emerge from another unexpected spot along the cliff face, staring at us. We felt like we were under surveillance in the middle of the wilderness!
