The Case For Lecce
Among all the places we visited on this recent trip, Lecce stood out as one place that surprised us. Even though it is the second-largest city in Puglia, Lecce is still underappreciated by American visitors. Situated in the hell of the Italian Peninsula (a historical region of Salento), the city is far from the well-trodden Amalfi coast. Even in Rick Steve’s “Best of South Italy in 13 Days Tour”, the tour only gets as far south as Matera and Alberobello. I wonder whether there was any debate about including Lecce in that itinerary. Perhaps they might develop a Puglia-only tour program in the future. So, I want to use this blog post to make my case for Lecce.
The Gate of Saint Blaise marks the southern entrance of the historic center.
Just about every corner of central Lecce is picturesque.
The Church of Saint Irene.
I admit that I did not know or even hear of Lecce until I watched a television program called Alex Polizzi's Secret Italy. The British hotelier and TV personality is of Italian ancestry and considers Italy her second home. Since there aren’t that many television programs devoted to Puglia, this episode is a handy guide for planning our own itinerary. Among all the towns she traveled to in the hour-long program, Lecce caught our eyes. While Polizzi described the cave town of Matera as a treasure of Itlay, she called Lecce the “jewel in Puglia’s crown.” That is high praise for a city that few of us ever heard of.
Anonymous Elegance
Oddly, the relative anonymity of Lecce is probably Lecce’s greatest strength. Before we arrived at Lecce, we spent two nights in Matera. As magnificent as Matera was, it was an exhausting city to explore in the heat of summer. Matera’s numerous steps and exposed urbanscape did not help either. When we arrived at Lecce, we were ready for a relaxing few days. Luckily, we booked an awesome Airbnb apartment at the edge of the old town. The three-level house includes a rooftop terrace, a kick-pass open staircase, and an expansive roof terrace. But as much as I loved this apartment, I was more excited about exploring this beautiful city.
Palazzo della Provincia di Lecce.
One of the more anonymous piazzas in central Lecce.
like much of Puglia, Lecce often appears abandoned during the middle of a summer day.
Among the first things that any visitor would notice about Lecce is its architectural uniformity. Although it does not possess the ruthless repetition of newer cities like Paris, this city achieved its architectural harmony through yellow limestone. Commonly known as Lecce Stone (Pietra Leccese), this local limestone was abundant in and around Salento. This stone is noted for its tremendous malleability. Over the decades, the limestone began to harden and took on a rich honey color. Compared to other travertine, the favored stone in Rome, Lecce Stone allows local artisans to carve some of the most elaborate decorations in Italy. But perhaps because of its workability, the stone is also prone to erosion. Over time, the building facade took on a unique patina. As we strolled through the streets of Lecce, we could see that many statues and gargoyles on the building facade had weathered away with the attrition of time.
The natural erosion of the Lecce Stone is a trademark of this historic city.
The entire historic center of Lecce is designated as a ZRL Zone.
Bike rental is definitely a good way to explore Lecce.
With much of the original walled city now designated as a ZTL zone, the historic Lecce saw relatively little vehicular traffic and retained much of its historic ambiance. As we walked toward the town center, I was surprised by how quiet this place was. Rick Steves once famously claimed that Italy became more intense as you head south: “If Rome was too intense already, don’t head further south!” Honestly, I think that comment only applies to Naples; Lecce’s understated elegance is in a class of its own. The phrase “silent city” came into mind; it dawned on me that Lecce is reminiscent of the medieval town of Mdina in Malta. There is a true feeling of grace and elegance in this place.
Compared to Rome or Florence, Lecce’s many piazzas are not anchored with big palazzos or churches. It is not unusual to see a few buildings half abandoned or under renovation. Despite its peace and tranquility, old Lecce felt very lived-in and comfortable. Luckily, the walled city is big enough to explore but not massive enough to get lost. It was only time that we came across one of Lecce’s grand piazzas and the main pedestrian street: Via Guiseppe Libertini.
Understated Extravagance
If I ever moved to Itlay, my favorite aspect of Itlain living would be the daily passagatta custom. The evening stroll along a town’s main pedestrian boulevard is a daily ritual for people of all ages. It is often said that Lecce’s Via Guiseppe Libertini has the best passagatta in the country. This street bisects the old city and connects many of Lecce’s most beloved landmarks and public squares. Porta Rudiae is one of the three surviving medieval gates of Lecce at the western terminus of the street. Named after the former city of Rudiae, this 17th-century gate is guarded by four city founders. At the top of the gate is a statue of Saint Orontius, Lecce's first bishop and patron saint. Colloquially, the gate is often referred to as Saint Orontius Gate by the locals.
Porta Rudiae, the eastern terminus of Via Giuseppe Libertini.
The rustication of a grand palazzo creates a beautiful shadow under the bright Puglian sun.
Just immediately east of the gate is the Basilica of the Rosary and Saint John the Baptist, one of the numerous Baroque churches Lecce is known for. Even though much of the church facade has been covered up by scaffolding, the level of architectural intricacy is astonishing. The flamboyant facade is decorated with exuberant stone garlands and twisting columns. The architectural magic Lecce Stone made possible was on full display here. I wonder how Baroque masters like Francesco Borromini or Gian Lorenzo Bernini would have created this material. Perhaps the less malleable stone, like travertine, helped restrain the architects from going overboard.
Baorque details on the Basilica of the Rosary and of Saint John the Baptist.
Basilica of the Rosary and of Saint John the Baptist.
Famous for its plethora of Baroque churches and monuments, Lecce is nicknamed “Florence of the South.” I was quite suspicious of such high praise. After all, you would think Lecce would have garnered much more attention from tourists and architectural enthusiasts. But after spending two days here, I think that title is well-deserved. The development of the Baroque in Lecce is deeply rooted in the fever of Catholic Counter-reformation. The arrival of Jesuit and Dominican orders fueled a construction boom. They were eager to exert their religious influence upon the population after civil upheavals against the Ottoman Turks. Architecture and art became the propaganda tool of choice during this period.
The Piazza del Duomo appears awfully solemn during the daytime.
A few minutes walk down the street brought us to one of Lecce's most celebrated Baroque spaces: Piazza del Duomo. After navigating through a network of narrow lanes, the grand scale of the Cathedral Square is such a breath of fresh air. But unlike a typical cathedral, it was not easy at first to determine which structure the cathedral was. With two separate main entrances, Lecce Cathedral looks very much understated. Unfortunately for visitors, many of Lecce’s most important churches (including the cathedral belfry) require admission. As the church struggles with the enormous cost of upkeep, it was been a trend in Italy to charge tourists for visiting many of the country’s most impressive religious spaces. While the cost is often modest, we did not feel like being nickeled and dimed.
The Cathedral of Lecce actually uses its side door as its ceremonial entrance.
Even without visiting the church interior, the beauty of Lecce’s churches is without question. The piazza is ringed by other ecclesiastical institutions, such as the Episcopal Palace (Palazzo Vescovile) and the seminary building (Seminario), to complete the architectural ensemble. Amazingly, only a few private businesses were located on this stately square. Luckily, a handy cafe provides a much-needed venue to enjoy the conviviality of this amazing space. While the square appears quite austere during the day, the mood shifted completely after sundown. With all the buildings lit up by floodlight at night, it became a popular place for people of all generations.
The fire-tier belfry stands like a medieval skyscraper.
Elaborate facade of the Cathedral of Lecce.
For any architecture enthusiast, the highlight of Lecce is probably the Basilica of Holy Cross (Basilica di Santa Croce). The church was not massive but is the most richly ornamented in Lecce. In particular, the entablature of the facade is filled with some highly unusual and imaginative gargoyles and allegorical statues. The facade tells the story of Christians’ triumph over the realm. Figures of wild beasts and sirens at the bottom represent the underworld, while the massive rose window symbolizes the glory of Jesus Christ and the Last Judgement. Rights under the rose window are cherubs carrying papal tiaras and crowns, symbols of the spiritual and temporal powers.
Architecturally, the Basilica of the Holy Cross is the most celebrated church in the city.
Architecturally, the Basilica of the Holy Cross is the most celebrated church in the city.
Could you spot the bear on the entablature?
According to some historical sources, the fanciful facade was ridiculed upon its completion. The flamboyant design threw away all the design principles and proportions. For some time, the church was abandoned. While impressive, I certainly agree that the church borders on absurdity. A case in point would be a series of "wild animals" holding up the entablature: lion, bear, and dragon. They were all carved out of the imagination of artisans, who had never seen any of these beasts live before. I wonder whether people think this was London Eyes: an impressive eyesore of its age.
The Church of Saint Mary of the Gate.
Besides these marquee churches mentioned above, about a dozen grand Baroque churches are of great architectural merit. My favorites are the Church of Saint Mary of the Carmel, the Church of Saint Angelus, the Church of Saint John the Baptist, the Church of Saint Matthew, and the Church of Sanit Mary of the Gate. The Baroque traditions in Lecce are collectively known as "Baroque Lecce” (Barocco Lecces). The versatility of Lecce Stone has more than made up for the lack of precious stone on the city’s facade.
Lecce Through History
Despite Lecce’s Baroque appearance, the city traces its origin to over two millennia. Like the rest of the Salento, Lecce has seen a long list of foreign rulers coming and going throughout its history. The earliest residents of Lecce are from the Messapian tribes indigenous to the Salento region. It eventually came under the rules of the Roman Republic in the 3rd century B.C.E. During the first few centuries of Roman rules, Lecce gradually developed into a bigger settlement and a base for Roman legions in the area. Little of this period is visible in Lecce today.
Ruins of the ancient Roman amphitheater.
Today, the most visible remnant of Lecce’s Roman heritage dates to the reign of Emperor Hadrian in the 2nd century. Right in the middle of Lecce’s main square, Piazza Sant’Oronzo is a partially excavated Roman amphitheater that was accidentally discovered by construction workers in 1901. Unlike Rome’s Colosseum or Verona’s Roman arena, Lecce’s amphitheater is mostly below ground level and remains largely invisible from the far side of the main square. Although the theater is closed to the public, the entirety of the ancient ruin is easily visible from the street. In its heydays, the arena could accommodate as many as 15,000 spectators. The juxtaposition between the Roman ruins and the broadly modern piazza is particularly striking.
Ruins of the ancient Roman amphitheater.
Palazzo del Seggio.
Even though Piazza del Duomo may be the most beautiful public space in Lecce, I would argue Piazza Sant’Oronzo is far more interesting. Besides the Roman amphitheater, the architecture around this square is like a chronology of Lecce’s architectural history. Just next to the amphitheater is a “wonderful” example of Fascist architecture and an unusually fanciful Gothic-Renaissance style palace called Palazzo Del Sedile. In a city known for its architectural uniformity, it is ironic that the main square is so architecturally disjointed, at least stylistically.
Colonna di Sant’Oronzo once marked the southern terminus of Via Appia in Brindisi.
Colonna di Sant’Oronzo once marked the southern terminus of Via Appia in Brindisi.
One of my favorite monuments on the square is Colonna di Sant’Oronzo, which is dedicated to Saint Oronzo, the first bishop of the Lecce. This rather anonymous column holds great historical significance. It was actually one of a pair of columns that marked the southern terminus of Via Appia in the coastal town of Brindisi. Via Appia was the super highway of the Roman world and perhaps the most well-known transport route still in existence today. After a devasting earthquake, the fragments of one of the columns were donated to the citizens of Lecce. The column was reconstructed here as gratitude toward Saint Oronzo, who allegedly helped protect Brindisi from a devasting plague in 1656. Unfortunately, the statue of the saint at the top was missing during our visit as part of the year-long restoration project.
The Gate of Naples (Porta Napoli) was constructed as the main ceremonial entry into the city by King Charles V.
Lecce’s golden age arguably came during the reign of the Holy Roman Emperor Charles V in the mid-16th century. During this time, most of the grand Baroque monuments were erected. The emperor ruled over a vast swath of Central Europe, the Iberian Peninsula, and the Netherlands. His relationship with Italy has always been complicated. Crowned “King of Itlay,” he was ironically known as a perpetrator of the Sack of Rome in 1527.
The Church of Saint Mary of the Gate.
The inner courtyard of the Castle of Charles V.
Monument to Sigismondo Castromediano, who was a conspirator in the Riot of Lecce against the Bourbon monarchy.
For Charles V, Lecce was one of the military strongholds in the southern flank of his empire and an important gateway to Greece. He ordered the construction of an impressive defensive castle just off the old city. The small but mighty Lecce Castle is the largest in Puglia and served as the Kingdom’s military command. Now beautifully restored, the castle is a wonderful urban refuge for locals and visitors alike. As impressive as this castle is, my favorite monument connected to Charles V is Porta Napoli, the official entrance into historic Lecce.
Culinary Delight of Lecce
For me, a great joy of Lecce is its vibrant culinary scheme and food tradition. As the second-largest city in Puglia, Lecce has a well-established food tradition, and its restaurants are not as tourism-depending as those in Matera. Finding great bargains right in the center of town is still possible. During our 48-hour visit, we dined at some of the best restaurants on this particular trip. We had a scrumptious and massive seafood dinner on our first night at Pescheria con Cottura Lecce. I was equally impressed with both the cookery and the final bill at the end. For less than €30 per head, we were stuffed by the end of the meal.
After a few days of breakfast composed of a croissant and espresso shot, I was ready to try out some regional specialties. At a relaxing cafe next to the Duomo, the server suggested pasticciotto, a sweet pastry indigenous to the Salento region. The shortcrust dough is traditionally flavored with lard and rich in flavor. Pasticciotto is traditionally stuffed with ricotta cream. To say these things are rich would be an understatement. I am surprised to learn that they are the default breakfast pastry in Lecce. I could see my artery expanding as soon as I bit into one.
Wonderful seafood feast at Pescheria con Cottura Lecce.
For breakfast, I much prefer Lecce’s other local specialty: Rustico. This party is made of two layers of puff pastries and filled with a combination of tomato, mozzarella cheese, and cream sauce. They taste like a fancy round version of Hot Pockets. Given how healthy the Mediterranean diet is, I am surprised this heavy pastry is a norm for Italian breakfast here. Personally, our most exciting discovery in Lecce would be the city’s unique coffee called Caffe Leccese. This concoction is the most popular drink in Lecce, served with ice and sweetened almond liquor (or syrup). While Italians everywhere would scoff at the concept of American iced coffee, Caffe Leccese is the only “acceptable” way to satisfy my craving for iced coffee. Brian and I were surprised at how much we love this version of iced coffee. But like anything Italian, it is about one-tenth of the size of a Dunkin Donut iced coffee back home.
Caffe Leccese.
Mojito Menta from 00 Doppiozero.
When writing about the dining landscape of Lecce, I would be remiss if not to mention Bros, Lecce’s own Michelin-stared restaurant. This relatively new restaurant is the brainchild of a young husband and wife team: Floriano Pellegrino and Isabella Potì. This restaurant was elevated to international fame about six months ago after a scathing review by an independent food blogger, Geraldine DeRuiter. Among the most infamous dishes served is one in a ceramic cast of the chef’s mouth. It forces diners to make out with the chef as part of the meal. Her review crystalizes some of the sharpest criticism of haute cuisine and its tasting menu; it went viral almost immediately and was picked up by major international press, such as the New York Times and the Australian Broadcasting Corporation. It was even a subject of satire by late-night comedian Stephen Colbert.
Owners of Bros relished all the publicity associated with all the negative publicity. The chefs issued a three-page manifesto entitled A Man On A Horse to counter the review. In essence, they proclaim that everyone can make good food, but only a true chef or artist can inspire a higher form of art or cuisine. Instead of addressing specific criticism about their service or the food itself, such lofty proclamation reinforces their out-of-touch persona more than ever. At about €200. per head, a meal at Bros is not for everyone.
We looked into possibly having a meal at Bros, just for fun. While the cost of their 26-course tasting menu is a definite concern, we decided against it because we did not have five hours to spare during our short visit to Lecce. So, since we would not be dining there, I decided to swing by the restaurant anyway. Google Maps said it was only a block south of Piazza Sant'Oronzo. Oddly, there was no sign of the restaurant at the listed address. It took us a few minutes to figure out that the restaurant had already gotten rid of the “Bros” branding. Instead, the sign on the door now says “A Man On A Horse - Bros Art Gallery.” In the display case where the menu would typically go, only a QR code links you to a flashy video of the chef. Now, isn’t that just about the most pretentious thing that a restaurant could do?
How many people know that “A Man On A Horse” is a Michelin-starred restaurant?
One thing to know about Bros is that the owners are publicity machines and are not a bit shy about self-promotion. Technically, Bros is composed of a restaurant, trattoria, “food lab,” an art gallery, a shop, and a rugby team. Yes, they even have a rugby team, which is comprised of most of their staff. While there, we saw plenty of staff members shuttling between separate buildings, carrying trays of food and equipment. They were really like a line of ants going back and forth. Honestly, it feels like the owners did that intentionally, and I can’t help feeling a little bad for them. Is it bad that Bros is one of my favorite attractions in Lecce?
