Kanazawa - The Little Kyoto — Tuljak! Travel Blog

2024 has been a banner year for Japan’s tourism. With record international arrivals, the country seemed to be bursting at its seams in many places. The most popular tourist route is the so-called “Golden Triangle,” which covers three of Japan's most important cities: Tokyo, Kyoto, and Osaka. To “go off the beaten track” just ever so slightly, we took inspiration from Japan Rail’s Hokuriku Arch Pass. Instead of making a beeline from Tokyo to Kyoto, we made a detour to the Hokuriki Region by the Sea of Japan. It allows us to explore secondary cities and rural villages like Shirakawa-go and Gokayama.

Ultimately, the city of Kanazawa (金沢) was a definite highlight of our trip. Knicknamed “Little Kyoto,” this city of nearly half a million escaped the firebombing of World War II and was the second largest city spared destruction. Consequently, the town retained a remarkable collection of Edo-era architecture and took safeguarding its heritage very seriously. Like its famous big sister, Kanazawa is one of the few towns where you can still spot authentic geisha walking to work down the streets.

On New Year’s Day, Ishikawa Prefecture experienced a 7.6-magnitude earthquake. Known as the Noto Earthquake of 2024, the disaster inflicted tremendous damage on the region, causing hundreds of fatalities and billions of dollars in loss. Although the most severe damage was in the Noto Peninsula, thousands of buildings in Kanazawa were damaged, and there was a genuine question of whether a visit during the recovery period would be wise. A few weeks before our visit, I found an article that this region suffered economically more from the absence of tourists than the earthquake damages themselves. That gave me just the confirmation we needed to visit this historic city.

Kanazawa Castle

Kanazawa’s wealth can be attributed to the powers of the Maeda clan (前田氏). The Maedas presided over the Kaga Domain (加賀藩), one of feudal Japan's most potent domains. The domain produced 1.2 million koku worth of rice, making it the most productive and wealthiest region. To avoid suspicion and hostility from the Tokugawa shogunate, the Meada rulers were careful not to challenge the supremacy of the Shogun in Edo. Instead of focusing on military upgrades, the rulers here emphasized the development of high culture. By channeling the city’s wealth into art and culture instead of the military, the city managed to steer from Japan’s internal conflicts.

Today, the best monument to the Maeda clan is Oyama Shrine (尾山神社). This Shinto shrine is dedicated to Maeda Toshiie, the first lord of the domain. It later developed into the Maeda clan’s family shrine. The shrine was constructed shortly after the abolition of laws that prevented shrines from being dedicated to people other than the shogun. During the Meiji period, the derelict shrine was transferred to its current location outside the town’s castle. The lovely shrine includes a beautiful equestrian statue of Maeda Toshiie and a scenic lake with artificial islands.

However, the highlight was the Shinmon Gate. Completed in 1875, the structure is a preeminent example of combining Western style with Japanese and Chinese architecture. The design was a collaboration between a Dutch medical doctor and a local builder, Kishinosuke Tsuda. The unusual-looking tower incorporates Western-style stained glass and temple architecture typical of southern China. The gate was said to function as an urban lighthouse, visible from much of the city upon its initial completion. To me, the most exciting aspect of the design is its lighting rod, which is allegedly the oldest in Japan.

The shrine's back exit led us to the Nezumita-mon Gate of Kanazawa Castle. The sprawling castle was the headquarters of fourteen generations of the Maeda clan. It was once the country's most sophisticated, with a complex set of moats and embankments. Despite relative peace in the domain, the castle had a tumultuous history, not with wars but fire and earthquakes. It was entirely burned down three times (1631, 1759, and 1881) and rebuilt to various degrees. The six-story castle keeps was burned down in 1602 and was never rebuilt. Architecturally, today’s castle was only a shell of its former glory. For a few decades, a portion of the castle ground became the campus of the University of Kanazawa.

Over the past few decades, the city has become a deliberate process of restoring the castle. Perhaps heeding the lesson from Osaka Castle, Kanazawa decided to proceed with caution. The goal was to restore the castle to how it appeared toward the end of the Edo period. Around the castle park, several active archaeological digs were ongoing. Watching a big team of archaeologists with white coats scouring the field slowly was mesmerizing. The progress may have been slow, but the result was astonishing.

The newest reconstruction was the Nezumita-mon Gate, completed only in 2020. This gate was reconstructed using the original methods. The massive curved timber beams and rafters were a work of beauty. The precision of Japanese mortise & tenon is just on a different level. The entire structure was built without metal nails; walls were constructed of straw insulation and interior plaster finishes. The immaculate interior seemed almost too beautiful to be left vacant. I can’t help thinking this would make an ideal guesthouse.

The most notable feature of Kanazawa Castle is its silvery white roof tiles. These lead tiles shimmered under daylight as if they were covered in snow. Popular legend claims lead tiles were favored because of their durability and because they may be melted down to make weaponry during a siege. While rare nowadays, lead tiles were once more ubiquitous, including at Shogun’s former Edo Castle. While the roof tiles were meant to last centuries, the authentic plaster walls are prone to mold and physical damage. The exhibit insides included numerous architectural models and full-scale

The storehouse and three-story turrets are the most impressive among all the restored sections. By some accounts, this is one of the most extensive wooden reconstructions since the Meiji era. For any castle aficionado, this castle has many classical features, such as the so-called “dashi windows,” which project beyond the exterior wall and allow defenders to throw stones at the invading enemy. Inside were numerous architectural models and full-size mockups of the construction methods.

Many hiking trails around were closed due to the recent earthquake.

Although only a tiny fraction of the original castle has been restored, the ground is immaculately maintained. Unfortunately, the January earthquake caused considerable damage to the castle grounds; many stone walls collapsed, and many trails were roped off for safety. A local guide quickly pointed out that collapses were limited to the restored section done by the Japanese army in the early 20th century. All the Edo-era construction walls withstood the quake with grace.

Gyokusen Inmaru was the private garden of the lords of Kaga Domain.

Surprisingly, my favorite part of the castle was Gyokusen Inmaru, the private pleasure garden for the Maedas clans. Constructed by the third lord of the Kaga Domain, the garden is intimate and resembles a grand landscape in miniature. The castle’s embankment walls at the back create a scenic backdrop like a soaring mountain range. This beautiful garden was abandoned during the Meiji period and restored only in 2015. The lovely teahouse was also rehabilitated and now offers daily tea ceremony service.

Kenroku-en Garden

Speaking of gardens, Kanazawa’s most famous monument is another garden: Kenroku-en (兼六園). Right across from Kanazawa Castle, Kenroku-en Garden was the “public” garden where the Maeda rulers entertained their official guests. It is far more expansive and elaborate than the family’s private garden mentioned earlier. Known for its exceptional beauty in all four seasons, Kenroku-en is honored as one of the “Three Great Gardens of Japan.” It is the city’s main attraction for most domestic visitors and a place of pilgrimage for garden lovers.

The garden began with a lotus pond for the domain lord’s private Lotus Palace. With the completion of a nearby canal, the garden gradually expanded into a series of ponds and other water features. Although it is located at the highest spot in central Kanazawa, the engineer managed to supply the water to the lake on top of the hill. The garden even boasts the oldest water fountain in Japan! The water is central to the garden’s design. In the middle of the lake were several islands. The setup allegedly symbolizes a sacred island at sea on which a recluded hermit lived. It is an allegory of longevity and prosperity for the Maeda clan.

As a so-called “strolling-style” garden, Kenroku-en encourages visitors to wander through the meandering path. The name Kenroku-en means the “Garden of the Six Sublimities" in Japanese. These qualities are spaciousness, seclusion, artifice, antiquity, water courses, and panoramas. According to popular East Asian design, these were the six merits of sublime landscapes. Supposedly, very few gardens managed to achieve all six elements. From my limited understanding, the pinnacle of Japanese gardens is to foster the perfection of nature, where human hands are meant to be invisible.

To achieve natural sublimity, the vegetation must be carefully managed with some artificial help. The low-hanging tree branches of the Japanese pine trees had to be propped up by wooden pylons. And because this region of Kanazawa has some of the heaviest snowfall in the country, there is a unique technique to prevent the snow from crashing under the weight. Known as yukitsuri (or snow hanging), a series of bamboo poles were set up with ropes dropping to create a conical silhouette. The network of ropes helped distribute the snow toward the ground. There is no wonder that this garden is especially well-loved during the wintertime. Interestingly, Yukitsuri inadvertently becomes a symbol of Kenroku-en.

These teahouses were the only part not destroyed by the 1759 fire.

Considering the beauty of this place, it was shocking to learn that the entire garden, except for a teahouse, burned to the ground in 1759. It took decades to restore it to its former glory. After the Meiji Restoration and the deposition of the feudal lords, the garden was finally opened as a public park. When I asked the staff, they mentioned that the descendants of the Maeda clan were still invited back here on special occasions.

Among the numerous landmarks inside the garden, none is more famous than the Kotoji Stone Lantern. The two-legged stone lantern resembles a bridge in Kyoto. The graceful manner in which the lantern crosses over the water makes this the unofficial emblem of Kenroku-en Garden and the Kanazawa. A replica was gifted to each of Kanazawa’s sister cities, including Ghent, Buffalo, and Suzhou. I am surprised that this unique design has not been copied throughout Japan. For those with a Japanese garden in the backyard, a faithful replica is available for around $2,000.

The Kotoji Stone Lantern is an emblem of Kenroku-en Garden and Kanazawa.

One overlooked landmark inside the garden is Seisonkaku Villa (成巽閣). This handsome villa was constructed toward the end of the Edo era on the order of the 13th Maeda lord. It was the retirement home for his mother so that she could enjoy the views of Kenroku-en from her villa. This is a rare example of a feudal-era villa that survived without significant alteration. The architect maximizes the views by incorporating large structural openings. By integrating massive hanegi beams, the 65-foot veranda has no structural columns to offer open views of the garden. Although thoroughly Japanese, hints of Western influences could be spotted through bright colors and brass chandeliers.

Higashi Chaya District

Among Kanazawa’s historic neighborhoods, the most popular among visitors would be Higashi Chaya District (東山ひがし茶屋). It is located on the northeastern side of the city center, away from the hustle and bustle of modern commerce. Ochaya (茶屋), the Japanese teahouse, is a specific venue where professional geishas entertain guests, traditionally Japanese aristocrats or wealthy merchants. These teahouses were once scattered across the city, but in 1820, the domain’s ruler ordered them to relocate to one of three confined entertainment districts, with Higashi Chaya being the largest.

Joe was young enough to be aware of the term geisha; he thought we were talking about “gay Asians.” As mentioned earlier, Kanazawa and Kyoto are the only cities retaining geisha traditions. Made famous by Hollywood movies like Memoirs Of A Geisha, these traditional artisans are both misunderstood and mystified. A geisha enters their guests through highly choreographed games and rituals. Like Western opera, the audience must be educated with basic etiquette and cultural background to enjoy the entertainment. As such, casual visitors could not just drop in at a geisha teahouse. People often need a referral from friends or family.

You could identify a tourist hotspot by the presence of hand-pulled rickshaws.

The key to Geisha’s work was to value clients’ privacy, as reflected in the architecture of these teahouses. The ground level is screened with a beautiful wooden lattice screen called kimusuko. It is designed for people to see well from the inside but not from the outside. The understated architecture is immensely charming and speaks to Japan's simplicity-centered aesthetic. Understandably, most of these teahouses now function as cafes and shopping boutiques, but lucky visitors might still be able to spot geisha on their way to work.

Any visitors to Higashi Chaya District can not escape the omnipresence of Kanazawa’s most celebrated specialty: gold leaves. The city and the surrounding metro area produce more than 98% of gold leaf in Japan. The name Kanazawa means “marsh of gold” in Japanese. Kanazawa’s gold leaf production is attributed not only to the availability of gold but also to climate, water quality, and the long lineage of skilled artisans. To this day, each piece of gold leaf of Kanazawa is still produced by hand. The best place to learn more about the gold leaf was a visit to the Kanazawa Yasue Gold Leaf Museum. This little museum highlighted the technical aspect of gold leaf production and how the industry responded to the boom and bust of the Japanese economy.

Traditionally, their main goal is to decorate great temples and household items. The most famous work of Kanazawa gold leaf is Kyoto’s Kinkaku-ji Temple. We were all surprised that Kanazawa did not choose to apply the gold leaf to a historical temple in town just for tourism’s sake. All over the district are shops selling various popular merchandise, ranging from drinkware to lacquerware. Some of the more ridiculous items include 24-karat gold facial masks and lotions. Joe was excited to pick up a sleeve of golden golf balls for his father’s birthday.

Who wants to buy this giant golden eagle?

The most popular item is, without a doubt, a gold-covered soft serve. Paper-thin gold leaf was applied in front of eager customers. The gold is so thin that they had to be careful that the gold leaf wouldn’t blow away. Considering that gold leaf does not add to the taste, we did not try. Shops and cafes sell many other gold-ladden desserts, such as Castella cakes and chocolates. A few conveyor belt sushi restaurants in Kanazawa even serve gold-covered sushi. I was honestly surprised we did not ingest anything golden on this visit.

To round out our gold leaf experience, we stopped by one of the many gold leaf workshops in the district. We could apply their gold leaf pattern on plates of our choosing for a modest fee. The staff was patient, explaining and guiding us through the process. Granted, she did jump in several times to ensure it was executed to her standard. The process was surprisingly labor-intensive, and it took a lot of patience. I could imagine the amount of work that goes into more intricate pieces. This experience ended up being one of Joe’s favorites on this trip.

The residential houses along the Sia River.

The Higashi Chaya District is not particularly large, and it took us a few hours to explore it fully. Oddly enough, very few businesses were open after sunset, and the entire neighborhood appeared abandoned in the evening. However, the one unexpected delight was the riverside promenade along the Sai River. Officially the Kazuemachi Chaya District (主計町茶屋街), this area was our favorite stretch of strolling street in the city.

Nagamachi District

A few blocks from the city center is the second most popular historic neighborhood: Nagamachi Samurai District (長町武家屋敷跡). As its name suggests, this area was once the favored quarter of the high-ranking samurai loyal to the Maeda clan in the Edo period. Fortuitously, the neighborhood survived the fire or redevelopment through the centuries. The narrow, cobbled streets and wandering waterways reminded us of the bygone era. However, the most iconic feature is the low walls made out of tawny stone and mud walls. To protect the walls from harsh weather, owners will install sheets of rice straw matt in the winter. They were regarded as a symbol of the changing seasons for the locals.

A few of the dozen samurai residences in the district are open to visitors. The best regarded among them is Nomura Samurai Family Residence. The house has been in the hands of the Nomura family for eleven generations since the end of the 16th century. After the Meiji Restoration, the samurai class was abolished, and most lost their economic privileges. Many samurai houses were torn down or sold to the wealthy merchants. Nomura was sold to shipping magnet Kubo Hirobei Hirobei before being transferred to the city’s guardianship. It was then fully restored and opened as a house museum.

Although we often associate samurai with masculinity and warfare, the peace brought forward by the Tokugawa shogunate meant the samurai found themselves idle without purpose. They started to take an interest in high culture. The refined interiors of the house are somewhat unexpected, and it was probably the most elegant home we visited on this trip. The grand reception room features exotic wood, intricate carving, and even glass panels. It speaks to the wealth and sophistication of the samurai class toward the end of the Edo era.

Despite its compact size, the house garden is stunning and said to be one of Japan’s best. The layering of vegetation and cunny use of water features seemed chaotic at first, but it is a masterpiece of landscape architecture. It reminded me of how I felt when I first visited London’s Sir John Soane's Museum! We spent quite some time sitting on the veranda and taking in the tranquility of this place. I only wished my father could be there, as he would have been mesmerized.

One unexpected highlight of the neighborhood was the Shinise Kinenkan Museum, housed in Nakaya Chinese Pharmacy's original building. The massive two-story structure was a magnificent example of Edo-era commercial architecture. The exhibits include traditional medicine and various crafts native to Kanazawa, such as lacquerware and bespoke bamboo baskets. I was amazed we were the only visitors during the half-hour we spent there.

Modern Kanazawa

As much as I love to imagine Kanazawa and Kyoto as a time capsule of traditional architecture, the vast majority of the city of half a million is decidedly modern. Kanazawa may have escaped the ravage of wars but is not immune from urban redevelopment. For various reasons, the lifespan of a typical house is among the shortest in the world. Japan’s conformist culture often translates to anonymous or utilitarian architecture. Aside from some neighborhoods in Tokyo and Osaka, the cityscape of many Japanese cities looks very similar.

As the capital of Ishikawa Prefecture, Kanazawa is also a straightforward center of regional commerce and administration. While historical neighborhoods like Nagamachi District or Higashi Chaya District are immensely charming, visitors should explore the modern commercial district for a dose of workaday Kanazawa. Part of the city center reminded me of my hometown, Hsinchu. Like most Asian cities, the city’s beauty is best appreciated in the evening. The lit-up billboards and dim-lite izakayas turbocharged the charms of Kanazawa.

*Tsuzumimon*, the main entrance to Kanazawa Station.

The one landmark that best represents Kanazawa is Tsuzumimon (鼓門) at the main entrance to Kanazawa Station. The massive wooden gate is modeled after traditional Japanese drums, tsuzumi, commonly used in the Noh theater. As a city known for its traditional culture, Kanazawa hosts several Noh theaters and a handsome Kanazawa Noh Museum. The architect successfully synthesized the design of a Shinto torii gate with highly stylized tsuzumi. This iconic gate was inaugurated in 2005 as part of the station revitalization project. The design is reminiscent of Seville’s Setas de Sevilla. The vermillion color of Tsuzumimon is particularly striking at night.

For contemporary architecture, Kanazawa’s claim of fame is the 21st Century Museum of Contemporary Art. This eye-catching structure is the work of Japanese architect SANAA, the winner of the 2010 Pritzker Prize. Famous for its trademark use of expansive glass and delicate service, SANAA approached this project with a deceptively simple yet provocative design. A perfect circle of curtain walls encapsulates a series of rectangular-shaped galleries, library, and workshop rooms. It redefined a new typology of museum design. Its visual transparency is stunning and an engineering triumph.

Attracting about 2.3 million visitors in 2023, this is reportedly the second-most-visited art museum in Japan. Unfortunately, the museum suffered significant damages from the Noto Earthquake and did not fully reopen until a month after our trip. While the “public area” of the museum was open to visitors and free of charge, we sadly missed out on famous works, such as Leonardo Erlich’s The Swimming Pool and James Turrell’s Blue Planet Sky. But honestly, what attracted me here was the architecture, not the artwork within. I was pretty content with wandering the empty halls.

*Colour Activity House* by Olafur Eliasson.

The museum also boasts an expansive collection of outdoor sculptures sprinkled across the ground. These works are highly interactive and seem especially popular with young families. They are easily accessible to all citizens at all hours. The cynic within me can’t help wondering how these precious outdoor artworks could never survive in New York. They would be vandalized and graffitied after just a few days.

Omicho Market

A visit to Kanazawa would not be complete without a visit (or two) to Omihco Market (近江町市場). Central Kanazawa may be a few miles from the ocean, but the city has long had a stellar reputation for its seafood. Although a tourist destination in its own right, Omihco Market is said to be more accessible and reasonably priced than the famous Tsukiji Fish Market in Tokyo. YouTube channel Abroad in Japan regards this as the best market and one of the best food destinations in Japan.

Established in the early 18th century, the market is often nicknamed Kanazawa’s Kitchen. In the final years of World War II, the city became concerned that Omicho Market could be a target of American air raids and preemptively demolished the market. Ironically, the war ended only one month after the demolition, and the city was never targeted. The market was resurrected after a directive from the central government requiring every major city to have a fish market. Before the pandemic, there were about 180 stalls in operation.

The market's offerings are wide-ranging. It provides an excellent overview of Japanese culinary traditions, from pickled vegetables to fresh wasabi. However, the stars are the seafood, in particular the shellfish. Stacks of oversized crabs attract many visitors, prompting some vendors to prohibit photography. While some shellfish on offer were from other parts of Japan, Kanazawa’s local water is famous for its snow crabs, so much so that there is a snow crab festival held every November. I could only imagine what a delectable event it must be.

Snow crabs are a stable of Kanazawa seafood.

Like other major fish markets in Japan, Omicho Market has plenty of seafood restaurants on the premises, including some of the city's most famous spots. For non-Westerners, there is no better breakfast than a bowl of sashimi over rice or seafood miso stew. Many vendors offer free samples or sell snack-size bites, like grilled eel skewers or raw sea urchins straight from the shell. The ¥500 grilled eel skewers are probably the best deal out there. My personal favorite, however, was a sashimi vending machine. Brian thought I was mad for eating ¥500 raw fish from a machine.

Because of the recent earthquake, the market crowd is significantly lighter than last year's. When we visited around eight o’clock, there were more vendors than customers. In the age of supermarkets and grocery delivery, tourism seems to play an increasing role in the economics of a seafood market. I am happy to play my part by recommending Kanazawa to anyone traveling to Japan. Our three-day stay was delightful, and I might even say we prefer it over Tokyo or Kyoto.

▲

Kanazawa - The Little Kyoto