The Small But Mighty Inuyama

Thanks to currency devaluation, 2024 has been a blockbuster year for Japanese tourism. There seemed to be hordes of Western tourists everywhere we visited. While we knew Tokyo and Kyoto were immensely popular, we did not expect crowds at secondary destinations like Kanazawa and Takayama. Halfway through the trip, I wondered whether we should have gone off the beaten track a little. Among all the places we visited on this trip, the little castle town of Inuyama (犬山) may not be well-known outside of Japan, but our one-night stay there turned out to be the most memorable stop.

I first heard of Inuyama when searching for a convenient stop between Takayama and Kyoto. Nagoya would have been the most convenient place for a stopover, but the city does not have the best reputation among visitors. It was even bestowed the title “Japan’s most boring city.” While browsing all the accommodation options, I spotted a deal for an amazing hotel on the outskirts of Nagoya. Not only does the property look gorgeous, it is also situated at the foot of a historical castle. I was immediately taken by the enigmatic beauty of Inuyama.

Urakuen Garden

We arrived from Takayama in a torrential rain storm. The weather was so intense that Japan Rail suspended their Hida Express service connecting Takaya with Nagoya. We are lucky to have our rental car. Given the bad weather, I was glad Hotel Indigo Inuyama Urakuen Garden would be our refuge for the remainder of the day. It is one of the nicest hotels I stayed at in recent years. Most Americans would be surprised just how up-market Hotel Indigo and DoubleTree are in Asia. Like American fast food chains, the quality of American chain hotels is higher abroad than in America.

One guest benefit at this Hotel Indigo is complimentary admission to the nearby Urakuen Garden, the hotel's namesake. Urakuen Garden (有楽苑) is a Japanese garden purpose-built to showcase the architecture of a 17th-century teahouse called Jo-an (如庵). The teahouse was originally built in Kyoto for Oda Nagamasu, the brother of the legendary warlord Oda Nobunaga. The teahouse was designed by the tea ceremony master, Oda Uraku, and is widely considered a masterpiece of early Edo-era architecture. The building is so admired that it was moved and reconstructed several times.

The tea house was designated as a “National Treasure of Japan” in 1951, making it one of only three teahouses with such distinction. Two decades later, Nagoya Railroad Co (Meitetsu) bought the Jo-an from a private owner in Kanagawa Prefecture. The site of Urakuen Garden used to be an amusement park and was adjacent to a Meitetsu-operated hotel. Great attention was paid to historical documentation and existing vegetation. The relocation/reconstruction of Jo-an made national headlines and great PR for the railway company.

Because the garden would be closed the following day, we braced for the heavy rain to visit right before closing. Because of the rain, we made the mad dash for the teahouse. I must admit that Jo-an did not look all that impressive architecturally. Upon entering, we were greeted by an attendant asking us whether we were interested in matcha and Japanese dessert for a nominal fee, which we happily obliged. Although it was not a full tea ceremony, it was presented with traditional attention and care, as expected. Part of a traditional tea service is to slow down and embrace silence and nature.

Shortly after we received our matcha, an elderly Japanese couple came in. We started a conversation; they married at the hotel that predated Hotel Indigo, and their daughter-in-law now works at the new hotel. Meeting someone with such a deep emotional connection with a place was a delight. Even though they live in the nearby city of Gifu, they still come and stay at the hotel on their wedding anniversaries. She told us they had the best honeymoon in Hawaii and used to host homestays for foreign students in Gifu. They might be the first Japanese we met who are genuinely excited to meet Americans. Our conversations certainly made the visit to Urakuen Garden all the memorable.

Back in Hotel Indigo, we spent the rest of the day enjoying every nook and cranny of the property. Without question, the best figure is the castle view. Inuyama Castle may be small in size, but it is very photogenic. The large reflection pool before the hotel is a perfect foreground to the castle’s elegant silhouette. It looks spectacular, even the rainstorm. I only hope their outdoor onsen has a castle view as well. Brian certainly shook his head, knowing I was too cheap to pay an extra $40 to upgrade to a castle-view room. I might have upgraded if it was not for the need to upgrade the second room for Joe.

What I love about Hotel Indigo, particularly this property, is that it infuses local culture and crafts into many elements inside the hotel. Some of my favorites were the extensive use of Inuyama ware (犬山焼). Produced by two separate kilns, this specialty ware is known for its distinctive silhouettes in gold and depiction of fall foliage. I am typically not a fan of hand-painted pottery, but I found the ones inside the hotel strikingly modern and elegant. The design boutiques further showcase many works by Inuyama’s craftsmen. This would have been a wonderful place for souvenir shopping if it had not been for the ridiculous markup.

The hotel is directly situated next to the riverfront promenade.

Behind the check-in counters is an exciting mural depicting ukai (鵜飼). Also known as cormorant fishing, ukai is a traditional fishing technique once dominant on the Kisco River. The fishermen would tie a loose snare to the bird’s throat to prevent the bird from swallowing but hold larger fish in their gullet. The fishermen would then force cormorants to regurgitate the fish back. The practice seemed like a form of animal abuse. On Kisco River, cormorant fishing is mainly done at night, and fishermen would hang a torch at the front of the boat to attract fish.

Naturally, it was not the most efficient way to fish nowadays. Nowadays, ukai is practiced for cultural and tourist purposes. Visitors could book special boat excursions to get up close with the cormorants every summer. Unfortunately, we only missed the season’s start by about a week. Interestingly, cormorant fishing is historically a form of amusement for Japan’s aristocratic class, including the legendary Oda Nobunaga. Out of reference to tradition, eight fishermen were retained by the imperial family as Imperial Cormorant Fishermen. All foreign ambassadors were invited to the twice-a-year imperial ukai session.

One of the worst parts about staying at a good hotel was feeling obligated to stay in and enjoy all the amenities. The stormy weather on the first day certainly helped. I was very glad we were greeted with marvelous weather to experience the hotel and the castle in the best possible light. The breakfast view and the castle view were fantastic. After a few days of Japanese breakfast in a row, Brian and Joe were ecstatic with the Western breakfast options here. We all wished we could spend one more night here.

Inuyama Castle

The hotel's main entrance led directly to the river promenade along the Kiso River. From there, we had a perfect postcard view of Inuyama Castle (犬山城). The river marks the boundary between Gfu and Aichi Prefecture. This hill has been a strategic spot since the medieval period. Generally speaking, Japanese castles often look less formidable than their Western counterparts. Inuyama Castle is not particularly impressive in terms of its size. Perching atop a high bluff, this castle may have the most photogenic setting in Japan.

To get the best view, I woke up early to drive to the Gifu side of the river. I could hardly believe this side of the river had no foreign tourists or another five-star hotel. Like many Japanese castles, most of the castle complex was demolished during the Meiji Restoration. The emperor ordered the dissolution of the local chiefdom to centralize political powers in Tokyo. Because these castles played a significant role in resisting the imperial rule, they were regarded as a symbol of the feudal period. As many as two thousand castles were confiscated and demolished during the Meiji period.

Luckily, a few castles escaped total demolition. At Inuyama, the government tore down most of the castle but left the castle intact. About two decades later, the keep was substantially damaged, so the government returned the property to the previous family owners, the Naruse clan. The family rallied the citizens of Inuyama to restore the castle to its former glory. The Naruse clan relinquished control of the caslte until 2004, making it Japan's last privately owned castle. Since then, it has been administered by a non-profit foundation.

It was about a ten-minute hike up to the castle entrance. Since only the castle remains, it was a quick, no-frills visit. Before the Pacific War, there were 20 castles still standing. Eighteen, including famous ones like Osaka and Nagoya Castle, burned down in American air raids during World War II. Inuyama is one of the only twelve castles that survived the war. Most experts agree this is Japan’s oldest castle keep, dating to 1537. Inuyama Castle is among the five castles enjoying the converted “National Treasure” status. Pictures of all five of these castles are displayed on the second floor of the keep. I must admit that Inuyama Castle and Hikone Castle are less impressive than the others.

What made these five castles so special was their authenticity in terms of construction. Newly restored castles like Nagoya or Osaka must conform to the latest accessibility requirements by adding elevators. They are often constructed of reinforced concrete and are quite bland on the interior. Right from the beginning, we could tell the difference between an authentic castle and a reconstructed one. The staircases are steep and narrow, and the bedrock is organically integrated into the first level. To help preserve the original floor finishes, visitors had to wear plastic shoe covers.

Inuyama Castle is unique because of its wrap-around balcony on the upper level.

Each level of the keep exhibits various artifacts and historical documents related to the castle. My favorite section is the gallery of all the castle owners. It was interesting to see how their dresses evolved. I was particularly fond of the picture of the last owner, Naruse Masatoshi. The man looked so modern and jovial compared to his ancestors. It must have been nice to be the only “lord of the castle” during his lifetime. It must have been difficult for him to terminate the family ownership of the castle.

What makes Inuyama Castle particularly unique is the wrap-around exterior walkway on the uppermost level. The 360-degree panoramic views are spectacular and showcase the castle’s commanding position. However, the handrail here is especially low. Together with the sagging floor and the crowd, it could be quite a nerve-wracking experience. I was surprised Brian could overcome his severe acrophobia. The walkways provide a splendid view of the surrounding landscape and the castle’s intricate tiles of cascading roofs.

We could see the skyline of Nagoya in the distance.

Although Inuyama does not have many noticeable landmarks, the views from the walkways are fascinating. Inuyama is part of an extensive network of castles, including Nagoya, Gifu, and Komakiyama Castle. The castle’s towers functioned as a communication beacon during the feudal period. To the south, we could make out the skyline of Osaka, but I had a difficult time making out the silhouette of Osaka Castle, let alone the ruins of Komakiyama Castle. To the north is the city of Gifu; I think I spotted its caslte high on the ridge, but I'm not sure. I could only imagine how stunned the original lord would be to see how much the landscape changed.

Architecturally speaking, Inuyama Castle is more beautiful than famous ones like Osaka and Himeji Castle.

Like most Japanese castles, Inuyama saw plenty of battles during its long history. This castle is said to be the last stand against Oda Nobunaga's complete dominance of the ancient province of Owari. Considering the diminutive size, Inuyama Castle is surprisingly pleasant and worthwhile. Having been to the more famous Osaka Castle, we can appreciate how different an authentic castle is from a modern reconstruction. The construction was surprisingly complex and spoke to the castle’s longevity.

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Sanko Inari Shrine

At the base of the castle are three Shinto shrines, the most famous of which is the Sankoinari Shrine (三光稲荷神社). Inuyama means “dog mountain” in Japanese, but I could not find information on the town's etymology. I wonder if it may have something to do with this shrine. Inari is a spirit in Shintoism and is most often personified by foxes. The spirit connotes prosperity, well-being, and wellness. With close to three thousand Inari shrines in Japan, it is said to be one of the most popular types of Shinto shrines there. The most famous is the Fushimi Inari Shrine, one of the most visited spots in Kyoto.

This Inari shrine may not be as famous, but it does have the characteristic red lacquered colors, lanterns, and torii gates. Like its famous cousin in Kyoto, it even has its own tunnel of torii gates. Vermilion red colors are chosen as an amulet against evil forces. The colors also denote a bountiful harvest and good business. The special chemical ingredients of red paints are said to have unique protective properties. This miniature version would suffice since we did not make it to Fushimi Inari Shrine on this trip. We certainly did not have to battle the crowd here.

Foxes are the physical embodiment of *Inari* deity.

Nestled within the shrine is a smaller temple called Himekame Shrine (姬龜神社). This shrine is known as one of Japan’s famous shrines to love. Worshippers could purchase special heart-shaped ema votive tablets. Their pink appearance makes this a popular photo spot for adolescent females. The fortunes (omikuji) here also come in heart shape and are made of clay. It is customary to leave them at the foot of the Inari fox and along the building’s perimeters. I could imagine this shrine must be very “profitable.”

Right across from the ema racks is a round stone set on top of a pink cushion. Called the Light of Heavy Stone (Omokaru), this piece of rock is probably the most ingenious fortune-telling I know. After making a small offering, The worshiper would stand before the stone and then make the wish with eyes closed. While reciting the wish, lift the stone to see whether it is lighter or heavier than anticipated. If it is lighter than you imagined, your wish shall be granted. The ingenuous part about this method was that you would only know whether your wish would be granted.

Speaking of unique ceremonies, the Sankoinari Shrine is also a great place to ask for good economic fortune. Next to the main shrine is a washing area with wooden ladles and a bamboo rack. According to tradition, visitors can create a fortune by “washing” their money with holy water. For about ¥500 donation, the staff would give you a bamboo basket and a tiny white candle. You would put a few coins, preferably your home currency, in the baskets and lather them with holy water with the provided ladles. Since we did not carry any American coins, Joe used his debit card instead. On the rack is a statue of a frog, a Japanese symbol of fertility and fortune. The ritual ends with the lighting of a candle inside a glass cabinet. The whole experience was undoubtedly odd; who knew we would be laundering money in Inuyama?

Right beside the Sankoinari Shrine is another important Shinto shrine: Haritsuna Shrine (針綱神社). The deities enshrined here are the guardian spirits of Inuyama and its castle. According to historical records, the shrine was initially located at the top of the castle next to the castle keep. It existed in one form or another for more than a millennia. Compared to the other shrines, this one seems more sober. The shrine housed a hand-carved statue of a dog donated by Oda Nobuyasu, the first lord of the castle. The miniature statue supposedly brings safe childbirth and longevity.

Today, the shrine is most famous for its association with the annual Inuyama Festival (犬山祭). Held on the first weekend of April since 1635, the Inuyama Festival is a religious procession and a celebration of the town. It started when the town paraded a sacred horse as offerings to the shrine. Over the years, it evolved into an elaborate ceremony and parade. The highlight of the festival is thirteen three-tiered floats. Measured over 25 feet in height, these floats were decorated with Japanese instruments and animatronics puppetry. The most impressive sight was the nighttime. Every float is decorated with 365 lanterns, and it would have been quite a sight before the introduction of electrical lights.

The festival typically coincides with Inuyama’s cherry blossom season, which is also the best time to visit Japan. For those who did not have the good fortune to witness it, a purpose-built museum houses many of its thirteen floats. Although it is not as famous as the Takayama Festival, the Inuyama Festival is also inscribed as a UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage and one of the more underrated festivity in Japan.

Inuyama Castle Town

Like its European counterparts, great castles such as Inuyama Castle did not function without the material support of a village. Since Inuyama never developed into a major city, a large section of the feudal-era castle town survived. Known as Jokamachi (城下町), these castle towns came into fashion during the height of the feudal period. Unlike most of the world’s walled cities, many Jokamachi did not have moats or defensive walls around the city; only the lord’s military castle had military fortification. In the case of Inuyama, Jokamachi did have earthen ramparts protecting it from enemy attacks.

*Honmachi-dori* starts at the *front* torii gate of Haritsuna Shrine.

After visiting the castle and Shinto shrines, it was only natural to stroll down Honmachi-dori, the main boulevard connecting Nagoya and Inuyama Castle. The first few blocks south of the castle complex were relatively modern, as this section used to be a parade ground within the castle's fortified walls. Thanksfully, the modern buildings quickly gave way to Edo-era architecture. Having just visited the historic district of Takayama a day prior, we were pleasantly surprised by how well-preserved the historical ambiance is.

Anyone interested in the history of Inuyama should stop by the modern Inuyama Cultural History Museum. They actually sell combo tickets for both the museum and the castle. This little museum contains a massive diorama with a wooden model of Inuyama of 1840. It should give visitors a good overview of a typical castle town. The museum also hosts various artifacts once owned by the Naruse clan. I only wish we had time for a visit.

Numerous eateries and omiyage stores are along the main road. From hida beef skewers to takoyaki balls, we had plenty of options as we slowly snacked our way down the street. Although the price was relatively steep, it was still a great place to sample some of the region’s best snack foods. Judging from the spread of the restaurants, soba seems like a specialty of Inuyama. We ventured onto a side street to escape the tourist crowd and found Nowa Handmade Soaba. This little family-run shop offers one of the most unique soba dishes out there: Sudachi Soba (すだち蕎麦). A summertime favorite, the cold noodle soup is laced with sliced green citrus.

Aside from shopping and snacking, Jokamachi has some free historical sites. Our favorite was Isobe Family Residence (旧磯部家住宅), which exemplifies the typical merchant house. The Isobe family once operated a kimono shop here; the house consisted of five separate buildings on a lot that extended over 280 feet deep. Like Amsterdam, the property tax was assessed based on the length of street frontage, so the incentive was there to make the property as deep as possible. The complex remained in the hands of the family until it was donated to the city for preservation and is now a registered tangible cultural property.

Objectively, Inuyama’s Jokamachi could be quite touristy, but it seemed geared toward Japanese visitors. We ran into only a handful of Western tourists the entire morning. It was certainly a refreshing respite before heading into central Kyoto. As Japan battled worsening overtourism, seeking out lesser-known destinations like Inuyama would be worthwhile. I might even proclaim Inuyama to be my favorite stop on this trip.

Urakuen Garden

Inuyama Castle

Sanko Inari Shrine

Inuyama Castle Town

Kanazawa - The Little Kyoto

Central Japan Itinerary - Spring 2024