Nazaré - A Tale of Two Cities
Our 9-day trip through Portugal was bookended between the country's two dominant cities: Lisbon and Porto. Aside from the university town of Coimbra, it was tricky to plan our time in between. Picking the right home base became a top priority and could make or break a short trip. One way of figuring this out is to look forward to guidance from Rick Steve's guidebooks and their official Portugal tour itinerary. The guidebook suggests the seaside town of Nazaré, while the tour itinerary picks the fairytale town of Óbidos.
One of the most surprising views of Portugal.
We ended up sticking with the guidebook recommendations since the printed material seemed to lend more weight. Aside from its seaside location, Nazaré provides a more workaday look to small-town Portugal. It also offers convenient access to a number of day-trip-worthy sights, including Fatima, Tomar, Batalha, and Alcobaça. The flexibility in day-tripping options came in really handy when the bad weather interrupted the afternoon fun on the beach. Indeed, the weather during our first day in Nazaré was nothing but depressing.
First Impression
On our drive north to Nazaré, we drove through the modern resort town of Sao Martinho do Porto. When we mentioned to the girl who checked us in at the Lisbon apartment that we were planning to go to Nazaré, she recommended a stop in Sao Martinho do Porto first. It was as if she was warning us from a tourist trap. We must admit that the place looked amazing, with wide sandy beaches and sleek condominium buildings. However, it looks like Palm Beach somehow drifted across the Atlantic Ocean. In contrast, Nazaré’s low-rise white-washed buildings and organized narrow lanes prove to be far more atmospheric and charming.
Look at the funicular at the backgroud.
Honestly, when we first drove into Nazaré, I quickly felt regret. It does not seem to be the fun in the short beach experiences we originally signed up for. Even more depressing is that an international beach volleyball tournament was underway. Luckily, plenty of beachfront cafes and bars are available to sample the very affordable Sagres Beer. The town has a dual personality of a working fishing town and a sun-seeker paradise that could turn rowdy occasionally. The contrast is particularly stark after dark. But still, the traditional elements of Nazaré remain in the depths of night, including women in traditional seven-layered dresses chatting in dark alleys. In these back alleyways, you get to appreciate the slower pace of life.
Wonderful Portuguese seaside town.
Upon checking into our hotel, the staff provided a list of recommended restaurants. I was happy to notice that two of the restaurants I previously researched were on the list. Given the less-than-ideal weather, we decided to have an early dinner and beat the crowd at one of the most popular places, Restaurante Rosa Dos Ventos. Just a few blocks from the hotel, the restaurant is a small family-run spot with two outdoor tables offering a view down to the beachfront. Being the day's first customer, the Owner was particularly warm and very patient with us when showcasing his favorite dishes. We must bring a large silver platter of fresh seafood to each table and explain our options. We decided to go with the red snapper and clam in garlic sauce. Both were rustic but extremely flavorful. The freshness of the seafood was unparalleled, and it is perhaps one of the best places we dined at in Portugal.
Be warned that the Atlantic is unbelievably freezing.
But what made this place truly memorable is its wonderful service and people. The owner and the waitress (the daughter?) were genuinely friendly and proud of their business. What surprised us was what happened after the meal. Being a cash-only business, they told the guest at the next table that the nearest ATM was about five minutes away. We were more than surprised when our waitress told us we could pay our bill later tonight or tomorrow. Not only has this never happened to us before, but it is even more remarkable that Nazaré is a touristy town where tourists from around the world come and go. The level of trust and warmth with guests was truly special. We could never forget that.
The Upper Town of Sitio
Aside from the sandy beach and the tranquil narrow lanes, Nazaré's secret charm lies in its upper town, Sitio. Perched high on the cliff, Sitio is a world away from the compact cityscape of the lower town. The two parts of the Nazaré could not be more different. Access to Sitio became very easy with a handy funicular that opened in 1889 and was designed by the disciple of Gustave Eiffel. Unfortunately (or not), the funicular has been modernized with large glass windows. At only 1.50€ per ride, it is an affordable and great alternative to a winding bus ride up the hill.
Once off the funicular, we were greeted with one of the most spectacular views in Portugal. The Belvedere offers a panoramic view of the golden beach of Nazaré, the new fishing harbor, and the uninhabited island of Berlenga. The dramatic cliff face drop is stunning and a great perch for meditation. Along the Belvedere are two sites of historical interest. First is a stone cross memorial dedicated to a visit from Vasco da Gama before his long voyage to India.
We could never get tired of this view.
I really wished we rented one of these tents, just for the experience.
My vote for the best selfie spot in Portugal.
A tiny chapel perched on a seemingly precarious spot is not far from the stone cross memorial. The chapel is dedicated to the Black Madonna, brought to Nazaré by two local fishermen from the holy city of Nazareth. The chapel marked where a precious icon, which gave the town its name, had been hidden from the Muslim Moors for more than four centuries. The 'rediscovery' of the holy relic was a rallying cry during the 12th-century Reconquista of the Iberian Peninsula. Across the main square from the chapel, we found the Church of Our Lady of Nazaré. The church is now the home of the precious icon after the original cliffside chapel was overwhelmed by the tides of pilgrims.
Funicular connecting Sitio and Nazaré.
Just north of Sitio, it is like a different world altogether.
Today, close veneration is possible through an elaborate labyrinth of walkways until you suddenly appear at the upper altar to see the Black Madonna up close. It was a really fun experience at the cost of a 1.00€ donation. Another major legend associated with Sitio is the Legend of Dom Fuas Roupinho, a Portuguese knight who, in 1182, was saved from tumbling down the cliff during a deer hunt by an appearance of the Virgin Mary. According to legend, his horse was frozen in midair while the deer fell over the cliff of Sitio. Inside the church is a large painting depicting the dramatic scenery.
A contemporary reinterpretation of the Legend of Nazaré.
The cross marks the location where Vasco da Gama stopped, before leaving Europe for India.
Sitio is an oasis of tranquility. It is a world away from the beach town below. A coffee break on the square was bliss. After a short break, we took a 12-minute stroll to the famous lighthouse. From this spot, the largest wave ever surfed was recorded in 2013. The underwater landscape created a strong undercurrent, creating enormous waves during winter. Of course, we were there at the beginning of July, and the sea was as calm as a mirror. Although we missed the infamous waves, the views from the lighthouse were magnificent. The lighthouse has now been converted into a museum dedicated to surfing at Nazaré. Though we could care less about surfing, the museum is tastefully done with a rustic interior.
Memory Heritage (Ermida da Memória) marked the spot where Our Lady of Nazareth was hidden away during rules of Muslim Moores.
After the lighthouse, we decided to grab an early dinner at Restaurante O Luís in the upper section of Sitio. I first heard about this place in a Rick Steves podcast. What caught my attention was their famous seafood boat. Yes, it was a boatload of seafood in a colorful replica of the traditional Nazaré fishing boats. The boats made a big impression with all the diners and a head-turner. Besides the staple of grilled giant prawns, clam in a garlic sauce, and stone crabs, the star of the show is the famous percebes, the goose barnacle.
The Percebes are the most famous food oddities for foreign visitors in Portugal. Their appearance is far from appetizing, with a dragon-claw-like tip and lumpy stem that resembles a penis (which I am told is the case). So what do they taste like? Well, it is like a synthesis of clams and oysters. The taste of the sea is intense. As you pulled back the outer skins, juices inadvertently burst out and could easily ruin a good dress shirt. Overall, we are converts of Percebes and have decided to seek them out whenever we are at a Portuguese restaurant. Because these barnacles are farmed commercially, they are indeed pricey. But these little splurges are well warranted since you will not likely see Percebes on the menu back home.
The seafood boat for dinner at Restaurante O Luís.
Sitio.
Center of Sitio.
Our other new seafood item was Sapateira Recheada, the local crab dip. We can't say it was our favorite. The icy cold dip was a little difficult to swallow, and it would have been a delicious accompaniment to some warm pita chips. As fun as the seafood boat was, we still recommend ordering from the rest of the menu, as most locals do. The warm and creamy seafood stew seems to be the local's favorite here.
Nazaré Bullring.
As the sun set over Nazaré, Sitio was an excellent spot to see the city gradually sink into the darkness. I could confidently say that it is one of my favorite spots in Europe. The twinkle of the town's lights set against the glassy ocean surface was magical. Nazaré may not have any top-notch tourist sights or a historical monument, but perhaps that is why it is an excellent place to decompress midway through our vacation.
Our Accommodation
Our hotel in town is quite off, as you can tell by the name 'Hotel Magic, it is quite unusual and a bit grandiose. It was perfectly situated, just a four-minute stroll from the beachfront, but the decor was 'overly modern' if possible. Nazaré is surprisingly devoid of decent mid-range hotels. Hotel Magic is perhaps your best bet despite its less-than-stellar air conditioning (high humidity could be a real issue there).
