Kraków - The Soul of Poland
It is difficult to separate my first impression of Krakow from that of Poland. For a long time, I was told that Poland was the backwater of Central Europe, and some would be more than pleased to classify her as merely a developing Eastern European nation that is struggling to pull itself away from the shadow of Communism. I found Krakow and Poland to have the best of both worlds. On the one hand, it has a lot of the Old World charm because the place is less developed in general when compared to its Western European counterpart. On the other hand, it has the fascinating influence of Socialist ideals. The peaceful coexistence of the two makes this country a beautiful place full of vitality and optimism. As Rick Steve says, there is no better time to visit Poland, a country as large as France and as populous as Italy. Today, Poland seems to be a happy nation with no illness left from the dark days of Communism.
The historic Cloth Hall at the center of Kraków.
I often wonder why Poland has not received more attention in the world. However, things seem to be changing. The perception of Poland has certainly changed since the recent upheaval of Ukraine. Poland has often been held up as a model economy and nation for Ukraine and other Soviet republics. It is a great testament to the resilience of the Poles. The tragedy of Polish history was perhaps not evident in Krakow, which had largely escaped the brutality of Nazi Germany or Soviet occupation.
Home to Da Vinci’s Lady with an Ermine, Czartoryski Museum is arguably the most renowned cultural institution in Poland.
Kraków Barbican, among the last remnant of Krakow’s historic fortification.
However, my arrival at the Krakow Airport was not quite as smooth as I had wished. Just as I was approaching the airport bus stops, a few volunteer docents instructed me to go around it because of some 'unforeseen operational changes". After going around to the parking garage across the road, I finally discovered that I did not have the necessary Zloty coins to pay for the $1.20 bus fare to the city center. They decided to do a complete lockdown as I returned to the terminal. Just as I had some time to pass through the airport, I started appreciating the cost of living here. An airport coffee that does not cost more than Starbucks in New York... I could appreciate that.
The Market Square
The ride into the Old City was surprisingly pleasant, with locals carrying fresh berries or newly butchered meat. While I was staying outside the medieval old town (Stare Miasto), the neighborhood was just as charming and had a less touristy vibe. The walk to the main market square was a quick 10-minute leisurely stroll. Unlike other medieval towns, Krakow was laid out in a grid plan, given the old town was completely burned down during the Mongol invasion. As a result, there is a level of artificiality despite it being much more diverse than other instant cities such as Saint Petersburg or Paris.
Church of St. Adalbert is awkwardly situated on the Rynek Główny.
The Main Market Square (Rynek Główny) was an impressive sight. The scale was vast but not empty. It was particularly lively in the late afternoon when tourists and locals mingled. It is truly one of the best urban spaces I have ever visited. Best of all, the regularity of the square was punctured by monuments but still integrated marvelously as a cohesive architectural ensemble. The Cloth Hall, Adam Mickiewicz Monument, Town Hall Tower, St. Mary's Basilica, and the Church of St. Adalbert are among them. The place is simply lovely, and it has a remarkably leisurely atmosphere.
The fanciful bell tower of St. Mary’s Basilica has a particular intrigue. Every hour, a trumpeter comes out of one of Saint Mary’s two towers to play a tune, which is abruptly cut off to commemorate a trumpeter who was shot in the throat while sounding the alarm of the impending attack from the Mongol. To this day, the noon-time trumpet signal, also known as Hejnał Mariacki in Polish, is broadcast live by Polish national radio every day. It was truly quite an eerie feeling once you heard the history behind Hejnał mariacki.
The soaring Saint Mary's Basilica.
Saint Mary's Basilica also houses one of the most beautiful medieval altarpieces in Poland.
Unlike many other old towns, Krakow's was bustling at all hours, and I was told it has quite a bit of a hectic scheme. That seems to be a big draw in the city, particularly to young travelers from other parts of Europe, especially the United Kingdom. This is a place to get cheap vodka and a crazy bar crawl. Staying at any hostel on the Rynek will likely be an epic party experience that I actively wanted to avoid. To get the best view of the main square, have a slice of cake and a coffee on the terrace at the Cloth Hall (access through the 19th Century Polish Art Gallery. The drinks are slightly pricey by Polish standards but still incredibly reasonable compared to New York. Surrounding the Rynek is the beautiful Planty Park (flat park in translation). It was a pleasant landscaped park with no specific sights, but it was perfect for leisurely strolling and just sitting and watching.
The Wawel Hill
Aside from the picturesque Old Town, the other top attraction is Wawel Hill, the nation's birthplace. The only disappointment was the view from the castle. The whole complex, indeed, has a rather museum-like quality that was both pleasant and disconcerting. Perched atop the city, it was not difficult to understand why this fortress became the natural point of defense for Polish monarchs. The beauty of the complex lies in its seemingly organic organization that incorporates a royal palace, bishop's house, and the national cathedral, not unlike the Kremlin in Moscow.
The Renaissance-era courtyard of Wawel Royal Castle.
The conglomeration of various side chapels create quite an architectural ensemble.
The coexistence of structures of various period is inherent to the charm of the Wawel Hill.
It does not have the claustrophobic feel of an English castle. But different from the Moscow Kremlin, Wawel Hill is casual and picturesque. Perhaps this is why I am attracted to the Polish culture: it is not uptight but extremely passionate. The Renaissance-style palace is a wonder. Unfortunately, the exhibit was not quite as exquisite and organized as the architecture itself due to the turbulent history of Poland herself.
The Wawel Cathedral, the national shrine to the Polish nation.
One regret is that I did not visit the cathedral itself. Impatient, I decided to skip it instead of waiting for the mass inside to be finished. Perhaps I should have just pretended to be Catholic. The coronation site of the Polish monarch and the home of Karol Józef Wojtyła (Pope John Paul II), the Poles have a true reverence for this place. Perhaps more than any European nation, Poland's cultural identity is intrinsically linked to Catholicism.
Kazimierz
The next major stop for Krakow has got to be the Jewish history of Kazimierz. Krakow and Warsaw was the largest Jewish city before the Nazi invasion. Although very few still reside in Poland, Krakow and Warsaw have been a place of spiritual journey for many Jews in and outside of Israel. It is certainly one of the most haunting episodes of modern humanity. I will say this is the best time to visit Kazimierz. The Jewish heritage is preserved but not yet rarefied.
The memorial plaque to the victims of the Holocaust at Kazimierz
The neighborhood was gentrifying but not yet beyond recognition. It is considered the bar crawl central, but daytime Kazimierz was a pleasure with a laid-back vibe. In the center of the neighborhood was the Main Market Square (Wolnica). Most days, it was a used cloth market where locals and tourists hunted for bargains. It was quite a sight and, for once, nice to see something visitors and locals could enjoy equally. I also got one of the best kielbasa and chicken kebob meals at a random grill shop on the square.
A moving memorial to the Kraków Ghetto.
Among the many sights of Kazimierz were various historic synagogues, many of which are turned into a museum and Jewish cultural center. This is one of those places where you must immerse yourself in the local history and your active imagination to get the most out of the visit. I would certainly recommend doing some pre-trip reading/study. Just south of the river, a short 15-minute walk was the original site of the Jewish Ghetto. While much of the ghetto was razed by the Nazis, its empty square was a haunting reminder of the tragedy.
The Temple Synagogue
A further 10 minutes west was the newly opened Schindler's Factory Museum, the original factory of Oskar Schindler of Schindler's List. Housed in the original building, the museum features contemporary and informative exhibits that could last two to three hours. The museum is quite text-heavy, so go there on a slow day and have an appropriate mindset. It provides a better context for the Holocaust Museum in Washington D.C. Adjacent to the Schindler's Factory is the newly opened Museum of Contemporary Arts (Muzeum Sztuki Współczesnej). While I did not get to see the exhibits, it does have a lovely modernist cafe that sells some of the most delicious cakes around. It was a good break from a whole day of sightseeing under the baking sun.
Nowa Huta
The last sight I wanted to write about in Krakow is Nowa Huta (the New Steel Works) at the city's eastern end. A quick 20-minute tram ride from Rynek, this neighborhood is one of the two Soviet-planned towns outside the Soviet Union and a must-visit for urban planners and architects. I was oddly familiar. A modernist interpretation of Stalinist city planning, it seems like a place where everything has its own place. This place could easily be a perfect backdrop for filming the Hunger Games franchise.
Is this a Utopia or a Dystopia? It is quite a fine line.
Like Moscow, it is interlaced with courtyards and a broad boulevard. It has a certain air of dignity despite its oppressive scale and monotony. Oddly, it was surprisingly pleasant. The collective housing accentuates individuality in the most subtle ways. No human could bear the uniformity of Communist living; under this environment, people took special care of the individual apartments and environment.
A typical side gate along the central plaza.
So, this is my brief summary of my five-day visit to Krakow. Will I come back? Well, probably not for another ten years, but I will be unequivocal in recommending others for visiting, either for leisure or for business. I will do a separate post on my day trip to Auschwitz-Birkenau and Wieliczka Salt Mine. Next stop, Warsaw!
