The Omnipresence of HM Sultan Qaboos
Absolute monarchy may be a concept from the distant past, but it is alive and well in the Sultanate of Oman. As Americans, seeing the ubiquitousness of a leader's portraits is not particularly comforting. After all, the United States was founded over the 'tyranny' of a constitutional monarch. The very thought of living under the whim of royal decrees seems unimaginable. In Oman, the sultan is not only the symbolic head of state but also the country's prime minister, supreme commanders of armed forces, the defense minister, the finance minister, the foreign minister, and the governor of the Central Bank of Oman. Given this long list of responsibilities, imagining how busy his daily schedule might be is difficult.
Al Alam Palace in Old Muscat, the official royal residence for Sultan Qaboos. The whereabout of his actual residence seems to be a mystery.
Once outside of the Muscat International Airport, it should only take a few minutes to feel the presence of his majesty. Nearly all public infrastructures and institutions are named after the sultan. You would drive down the Sultan Qaboos Expressway to get to Sultan Qaboos Port. Along the freeway would be billboards plastered with Sultan's portraits, often part of the advertisement of private telecom or car companies. To our knowledge, his Majesty's portraits' public and private display are completely voluntary. From the simple roadside cafe to the Shangri-La Resort, we can't recall any public or private establishments that do not have his official portrait one way or another.
Just what is the magic and charism of Sultan Qaboos? By talking to Omanis, one could understand that the reverence for the 76-year-old monarch is deeply rooted in the country's modern development. Before his reign, there was just one secondary, one hospital, and fewer than ten kilometers of paved roads. Sultan Taimur's fear of foreign debt eventually led to a rigid, centrally planned economy. Today, Oman's economy has been transformed from one based on the export of dates, fish, and cash crops to that of tourism, petroleum, construction, and service sectors.
Transformative & Benevolent Sultan
Sultan Qaboos ascended to the throne in the summer of 1970 in an 'almost bloodless' coup d'état against his father, Sultan Said bin Taimur. Sultan Taimur's feudal and isolationist policies worried not only the British interest in the region but also members of the Omani society. At the time, a big swath of the territory was under the direct control of the Imamate of Oman in Nizwa to the north and the Communist-led Dhofar Liberation Front to the South. Before 1970, the sultan assumed the political title of "Sultan of Muscat and Oman.” Muscat referred to the coastal areas, while Oman referred to the country's interior.
The Supreme Court of Oman. Although the judicial power rests entirely in Sultan’s hands.
The sultan became increasingly erratic, with much of the country's limited revenue stream directed to internal conflicts. Given the weakened state of the government in Muscat, Sultan Taimur became reliant on the British in suppressing domestic rebellions. At the heel of the Jebel Akhdar War and Dhofar Rebellion, the British turned to Taimur's son Qaboos to plot his father's ouster. The ousted ruler eventually went into exile in London until his death two years later.
Qaboos' reign could be characterized as a steady and peaceful modernization of the Omani state. The sultan directed state resources into the development of infrastructure. The state promised its citizens free water, electricity, healthcare, and education. The level of electrification in Oman is impressive. Rather than relocating the rural population to nearby cities, Sultan Qaboos spared no expense in providing free utilities to even the most remote communities. We have personally witnessed this as we cruised along the fjord of Musandam. The cliff-clinging utility lines demonstrated Sultan Qaboo's commitment. Convoys of water trucks made their weekly delivery on some of the most treacherous mountain roads across the sultanate. Social welfare is not carried out with an annual allowance but rather allows their citizens to fulfill their best potential out of their traditional ways of life.
The official guesthouse of Al Alam Palace.
A typical minister building in Old Muscat.
The Royal Opera House of Oman, a “gift” from Sultan Qaboos to his country.
Needless to say, all the infrastructure is not possible without the discovery of Oman's petroleum and mineral reserves. Many may contend it is all too easy with all the oil wealth. That may be true to some extent, but one does not need to look further than countries like Angola, Venezuela, or Libya to understand that oil wealth is no guarantee of prosperity and happiness. Compared to its flashy gulf neighbors, Oman is restrained with its spending. Except for the two royal superyachts, it is hard-pressed to find many vanity projects, as you can witness in the United Arab Emirates and Qatar.
The ingenious synthesis of European and Arabic architecture.
The “Qaboos-style” architecture is the antidote to the excess of the Gulf States.
A few of the grandest projects undertaken by Sultan Qaboos are now among the most revered places in Oman. The most notable are the Royal Opera House Muscat and the Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque. Both structures are true masterpieces of Modern Islamic architecture that combine modern aesthetics with the traditional architectural elements from Oman and the Islamic world. As beautiful and impressive as the physical structures are, the significance of these buildings is the manifestation of the relationship between the monarch and his subjects. Nearly all Omanis quickly characterized them as a gift from the Sultan. Despite being an ardent opera lover, the Sultan has only visited the opera house once, during its grand opening.
Succession & The Future of Monarchy
Because of the central role the Sultan occupies in the daily working of the Omani society, it is a time of great uncertainty in the region. At the age of 72, the Sultan has been battling cancer for the past several years, often for several months at a time in Germany. Without having a direct heir, the Sultan has been less than clear about his succession plan. It was said that the Family Council would convene immediately after his death and had only three days to settle on a successor. During those three days, the military will assume the leadership of the sultanate. If the members of the royal house could reach no agreement, the military would open an envelope containing the name of the Sultan's Qaboos preferred successor.
The portrait of Sultan Qaboos are often hanged in the place of business and private homes.
So why this convoluted process that could impact the fate of his beloved country? Some scholars and regional analysts believe this mechanism could help to establish a consensus successor. More importantly, it could prevent the foreign government's inevitable undue influence on a designated heir. Although Sultan Qaboos has been clever in maintaining friendly relations with all regional players, the fear of meddling from powerful neighbors is an ongoing concern.
The royal yacht, Al Said, mooring at the Sultan Qaboos Port.
For Omanis and long-term ex-pats, the sense of anxiety is palpable in our conversations with them. "We hope the next sultan will be as good to the Omani people as Qaboos is," proclaimed one of our guides. And this sentiment seems to run deep in Omani society. The talk of succession issues is not taboo. Instead, there is a genuine dialogue in civil society over the future of this kind and gentle nation. Sultan Qaboos may top the list if there is ever a benevolent absolute monarch in the modern world. But as we all ponder the future of Oman, it is difficult for us to imagine how the kindness of Omani people could possibly change no matter who the next sultan is.
