Saint John’s - An Okay Caribbean Capital

I did not know much about Antigua and Barbuda before my recent trip. It was a last-minute decision because of an amazing deal with my airline miles. It seems like everyone is visiting Antigua for its beautiful white sand beaches. But I was never much of a beach person, so I worried that this trip might be anticlimactic. Since Saint John’s is the only real city in the whole country, naturally I wished to spend some time exploring this capital city. Just like Paris and Tokyo, Saint John’s may not represent the whole country, but it would be difficult to fully understand a country’s history and culture without a visit to the capital city.

Despite being the largest city in the country, Saint John’s still remains a lot of its more rural characters.

With a population of just over 22,000, Saint John’s is far from a cosmopolitan metropolis. If you would do a quick search only, it should be obvious that this city has a mixed reputation among travelers. According to some travelers, the city is described as dynamic and colorful. But to others, Saint John’s is nothing more than a glorified cruise port. Unsurprisingly, the reality probably lies somewhere in between the two opposite assessments. I am curious to see how I might enjoy my first Caribbean capital if I don’t San Juan, Puerto Rico.

Due to Antigua’s small size, Saint John’s is very accessible no matter which side of the island you pick as your home base. For my trip, I set up my home base at English Harbor, opposite the island. But I somehow visited Saint John’s three out of five days. That may seem excessive to some of you, and yet something is fascinating about this city that kept drawing me back.

Initial Impression

Like dating, the first impression is everything, and I can’t say Saint John’s is all that photogenic. The city is a mixture of colonial-era buildings and modern construction. You could find a mid-rise casino, a government office, and a small roti shop on the same block. This juxtaposition and contrast are reminiscent of the Asian cities I was familiar with from childhood. But despite the architectural incoherence, Saint John’s projects a sense of easiness. Even though traffic could be rather hectic during Antigua’s weekday “rush hours,” the wide avenues and city grids never felt congested.

I wholeheartedly agree that Saint John’s is really colorful.

I did not take long to recognize why many travelers called Saint John’s colorful. Antiguans are not shy about saturated colors. While many cities embrace a particular color palette, The liberal use of colors could transform even the ugliest buildings into a looker. Hot pink seems particularly popular on every block, and I enjoyed it. Even on an overcast day, they provide such positive energy. Some of the most colorful buildings date back to the mid-18th century when a major earthquake destroyed a large swath of the city. You could see some richly decorated Victorian structures around the central business district. It was almost borderline comical/criminal to see shop signs haphazardly plastered onto these beautiful buildings.

The architecture of Saint John’s could be a little bit of a hodgepodge.

Even though Saint John’s is the dominant city of Antigua, the accommodation options are surprisingly limited. As a city geared toward visitors arriving on cruises, Saint John’s serves more like a springboard for day trips elsewhere on the island. As the result, much of the downtown is geared toward the day-to-day function of the locals. There aren’t even all that many high-end restaurants from what I could tell. I suppose the majority of fine dining is probably set up behind the gates of all-inclusive resorts. As a visitor, I definitely enjoy the hustle and bustle of Saint John’s. You don’t have the feeling that locals are pushed out of their own city in the same fashion as places like Venice or Dubrovnik.

At the risk of exorcising a specific country, I sometimes forget that English is the official and primary language of Antigua and Barbuda. This was my first time visiting an English-speaking country, predominantly non-white, so it took me a while to adjust to the fact that there was no language barrier. However, Antigua’s British heritage adds an element of intrigue. I was surprised that Antigua only achieved its national independence in 1981. As a current member of the Commonwealth Realm, the vestiges of British colonial rules and the monarchy are very much present in Saint John’s.

Aside from colonial-era architecture, the most recognizable relics of the British rules are bright red postboxes and street names. Names like Thames Street and High Street are just so typically British. But what caught my eye were smaller side streets with names like Soul Alley, Corn Alley, and Gutter Lane. The sarcasm behind these names is so wonderfully British, too, aren’t they?

Heritage Quay & Redcliffe Quay

With tourism accounting for more than three-quarters of the national economy, Antigua is a well-oiled machine dealing with the influx of tourists. For many visitors, their first (and perhaps the only) impression of Saint John’s is the city’s massive cruise port. Large enough to accommodate five modern cruises concurrently, it is one of the Caribbean's most popular ports of call. Almost the entire waterfront is developed into giant outdoor shopping malls to cater to cruise passengers. Euphemistically branded as Heritage Quay, this mall hardly resembles anything to the cultural heritage of Antigua.

During my first visit, there was no cruise liner in town, so I had the whole place practically to myself. It was a sad place to be. Because I have never taken a cruise, I had no idea what a typical cruise port is like. Surveying the available within Heritage Quay, I see that half of the shops are international chain stores like Nike, Sunglass Hut, Longchamp, and Levi. The other half is your typical duty-free shops selling jewelry, cigarettes, and cosmetics. Of course, plenty of tour operators are setting up shops there selling day tours. Very few shops appear to showcase Antigua’s indigenous craft and cultural heritage.

I don’t know. Do people enjoy browsing the typical shops they could find back home in America? How often do cruisers need to buy another pair of sunglasses? I am certain there are similar stores on the ship. I can’t help feeling a little depressed after wandering around Heritage Quay for ten minutes. I made the point to return two days later when two ships were in port to see whether I would enjoy this place more. Sadly, I think it was even more miserable-looking. Seeing people spend their precious 12 hours in Antigua at a Nike store made me sad.

Redcliffe Quay is definitely more authentically looking than its next door cousin.

If Heritage Quay looks too much like an American strip mall, head southwest to Redcliffe Quay. This outdoor mall is comparably high-end compared to Heritage Quay. Many structures here date to the colonial era and appear more "authentic.” But despite its age, conspicuously missing are any historical markers or a museum. It was a missed opportunity. The “quay” incorporates a landscaped garden and a dozen free-standing bungalows, mostly serving as food stalls. The whole setup seems eerily similar to the Woodbury Common Outlet we have back home. Based on what I saw, I started to doubt whether I would ever step on a cruise ship anytime soon.

Museum of Antigua and Barbuda

Of all the places I have planned to visit in Saint John, the Museum of Antigua and Barbuda, the de facto national museum, is at the top of the list. Given the number of cruise passengers arriving daily, this museum is likely a public face of Antigua’s history and culture. Whenever I visited a new country, I sought out its national museum, which is often a good window into a nation’s pride and treasure. The museum is just one of the very few points of interest of Saint Johns highlighted in guidebooks. I certainly had very high expectations,

The museum is housed in the former courthouse of colonial Antigua. It is supposedly the oldest building still in use in Saint Johns. By the appearance of the building, it certainly looked like it. I could see that the wood sidings are ten years overdue for a few coats of paint. The forecourt is littered with artifacts like old British mailboxes and locomotives that once roamed Antigua’s numerous sugar plantations. While fascinating, these artifacts were displayed so that that area looks like a junkyard. But the real surprise was when I got in the door. The staff at the front desk informed me the museum would be closing at three o’clock, and I only had half an hour left for the visit. That confused me as I saw that the posted opening hour should be half past four. After I mentioned the official opening hours, she just shrugged and told me they decided to close early for the day.

One of a locomotive from a former sugar plantation of Antigua.

Since I was determined to do a proper visit, I asked her about tomorrow's opening time. She looked at her colleague and discussed whether the museum should be open tomorrow. After a few minutes of “internal conversation,” she told me it would depend on tomorrow's cruise ship schedule. I should return the next morning and “try my luck.” Now, what kind of question was that? It is not the professionalism you would expect from a national museum.

Undeterred, I returned the next morning at around 10:30, well past the supposed opening time. Sadly, I was not even surprised that the museum was closed again. In front of the entrance gate was an older white lady waiting for the museum to open. The museum was No. 1 on her to-do list during her one-day visit to Antigua. I cannot fathom how the government could allow a national museum to operate callously. It certainly did not bode well for a nation that is so tourism-dependent.

When I later mentioned my experiences to Nicole and Adam, they called the museum a grave national embarrassment. I can’t tell you whether the visit would be worthwhile since I never managed a visit. Nicole quickly reassured me that I did not miss out on anything. Based on my observation, it seemed like the exhibition hadn’t been updated since the 1990s, and it resembles more like a high-school science fair than an institution of national importance.

Saint John's Cathedral

Aside from the regional hospital at the top of the hill, the most prominent landmark in Saint John’s is the massive Anglican Cathedral. The Diocese of the North East Caribbean and Aruba seats within the Anglican Church; the cathedral is the spiritual center of Antigua and Barbuda and the neighboring countries of Saint Kitts & Nevis and Dominica. The church was constructed in 1845 after an earthquake destroyed the previous structure. Designed by Canadian architect Thomas Fuller. the church is an unusual blend of Baroque and Georgian architecture. A keen contemporary observer compared the design to "a pagan temple with two dumpy pepper pot towers." Well, I find that to be a hilarious and astute description.

As the country's largest Anglican church, the cathedral is inevitably associated with British colonialism. For much of the island’s history, Anglicanism was catered primarily to the British aristocrats and landowners. It was part of the racial divide on the island. It was not until the mid-20th century that black Antiguans became more active in parish life. A 2011 survey shows less than a quarter of Antiguans are Anglican nowadays. Given Antigua’s small population, the size of the Anglican congregation must be pretty small in number. It is not at all surprising to learn that the maintenance of the cathedral has long been underfunded. Luckily for me, most of the decade-long restoration works have been completed. The cathedral is definitely in its best shape since the national independence.

The opening time of the cathedral ground is somewhat of a mystery to me.

To address the major hazards of hurricanes and earthquakes, the architect designed a wooden church housed within the wall of a stone structure. As a result of this duality, the church's interior may come as a surprise to most visitors. The interior is finished with teak wood and without a trace of masonry. The squat barrel vaults are quite reminiscent of many colonial-era churches you would find in the United States. The nave was surprisingly bright despite all the dark paneling. The space feels unmistakably tropical and perhaps even exotic.

Speaking visiting the interior, the opening hours for the cathedral are somewhat of a mystery to me. Just right inside the main gate of the complex is a sign indicating the hours of the mass. There was no indication whether the church would be open outside of the time of worship. I was properly disappointed. After all, this is perhaps the most famous landmark in the city. A few days later, I returned around the same time and was surprised to find the gate swung wide open for tourists. Although the church is free to visit, the staff at the building entrance was very persistent with getting a voluntary donation. I learned later that the church is only open when cruise ships are in town. I suppose they are after the much-needed tourist donations.

The graveyard on the cathedral ground is probably the nicest green space in the capital.

Personally, my favorite part of the cathedral is its graveyard. While the architectural renovation was nearly completed, the graveyard retained its dilapidated charms. The graveyard was a popular picnic place for locals during lunch hours. Looking at the current cemetery state, I could not help thinking whether they might imagine their grand tomb would be a picnic table several hundred years later. It affirms my conviction that I should be cremated.

Government House & Antigua Recreation Ground

As a member of the Commonwealth Realm, the country still retains the British monarchy as its head of state. Since King Charles III is not likely to visit this nation of his, all of his political powers are deputized by a governor-general, who is, in turn, appointed on the advice of the Antiguan prime minister. Just a few blocks east of the Cathedral is the Government House, an ultimate symbol of British colonialism in Antigua and Barbuda. The grand estate is the governor-general's official residence and a venue for official state functions like diplomatic receptions.

The front gate of the Government House compound.

A condolence message from the “people of Antigua and Barbuda” for the passing of Queen Elizabeth II.

Like the monarchy, the Government House retains mysticism with the public by walling itself from the rest of the city. Even after a multi-year renovation, as far as I could tell, the house remains closed to the public. The public could glimpse the house from the front gate on Independence Avenue, but a security guard quickly stopped when I tried to take a photo of the Government House. I wonder whether this opaque manifestation of the monarchy reflects the island’s current politics. Incumbent prime minister Gastone Browne has recently announced an intention to hold a referendum to abolish the monarchy. I suspect the monarchy’s declining importance was inevitable, but is it also possible that the Government House was deliberately shielded from the public for political reasons?

Despite the Government House’s political significance, I suspect few in Antigua considered it important. Instead, the more important monument to most locals would probably be Antigua Recreation Ground, just across the street. This cricket ground is home to the West Indies Cricket Team and Antigua and Barbuda’s national football team. Cricket is the most popular sport in the country and a common bond within the Commonwealth. For many Antiguans, cricket legend Sir Vivian Richards is often regarded as a national hero and the most respected living Antiguan.

Objectively, this may not be the most beautiful stadium you would ever see, but I do genuinely like how industrial-looking it is. Before my trip, I spent quite a little time finding out whether there might be a cricket match during my visit. I have always dreamed of attending a cricket match and seeing how I might enjoy it more than baseball or football.

Saint John’s Public Market

If you read any guidebook, chances are it would tell you that the best time to visit the city would be Saturday morning. Once a week, Antiguans of all walks of life converge around the city’s Public Market Hall to attend the island’s largest open-air market. Although much of Saint John’s was quiet on Saturday, this section was hopping. Many would say that the best way to understand a culture is to stroll around their local market. Naturally, I don’t want to miss out on this unique opportunity. According to the locals, the best time to visit was around the time of sunrise at 6 am. However, since I was staying on the opposite side of the island, I did not get to the market until two hours later.

The Saturday Market is largely divided into two sections. Around the Public Market Hall, you could find primarily produce sellers and street food vendors. The vendors lined the road, and it was a lively scheme. By the time I arrived, the crowd was manageable. I expect grocery shopping here to be a glorious experience for a tropical island. Besides the usual suspects like bananas or eggplants, there are quite a few more uniquely Caribbean produce I saw on sale at every stall. The most recognizable are the scotch bonnet and red habanero pepper. Neither of them is considered all that spicy.

But without any question, the most fascinating produce on offer would be roselle flower buds, often labeled as hibiscus. The curiously-looking buds were quite a mystery until I attended a cooking class at Nicole’s Table a few days later. The locals use them primarily for making tea. Nicole’s roselle pickle is quite amazing and surprising. Thinking about it, I recall my local Asian supermarket selling frozen roselle buds. Now I need to try them out at home.

The magnificent (but also terrifying) VC Bird Monument.

Around this area, the most interesting landmark is not the market hall but the enormous VC Bird Monument at the intersection between Valley Road and All Saints Road. The imposing statue of the country’s first prime minister, Vere Cornwall Bird, was instrumental in bringing about Antigua and Barbuda’s independence from the United Kingdom. The brightly colored statue is 33 feet tall and is said to reflect the enormous height of the man both physically and metaphorically. The statue is probably the most physically life-like color statue I have seen. I personally find the odd scale and colors both fascinating and terrifying. It certainly did not help that the entire monument was fenced off from the public.

Away from the Public Market Hall, the vendors began to focus more on common household items like name-brand breakfast cereal, toothpaste, or laundry detergent. I am curious whether some of these items may be close to expiration. Another section of the market is dedicated to apparel. I could believe this is a nicer shopping experience than going to Macy’s, except for the fact that there is no changing room.

This actually reminded me of cloth shopping with my family growing up in Taiwan.

After strolling the market for over an hour, I could attest that Saturday Market gave me a good glimpse of Antiguan life. One of this country's most amazing aspects is how friendly Antiguans are. It was really easy to strike up good conversations with many vendors. Vendors are not pushy in soliciting your patronage because this market is not geared toward tourists. But honestly, I could see how it may be disappointing to average tourists. Only a handful of vendors sold local handicrafts. That said, with the right expectation, visiting Saturday Market is an enjoyable experience.

Fort James & Fort Barrington

To better appreciate Saint John’s history, I recommend venturing out of the city limit to explore two landmarks that are pivotal to its history. Like much of Antigua, Saint John’s is heavily fortified to prevent attacks from the French and Spanish navies. However, you won’t see any battlements or military architecture in or around the downtown. Instead, the city is guarded by two fortresses at the mouth of Saint John’s Harbour: Fort James and Fort Barrington. Getting to these fortresses by public transportation may be impractical, but they are both easily accessible by a 15-minute taxi ride.

Fort James appeared to be closed, wouldn’t you say?

The lesser visited of the two is Fort James in the north. The construction began in 1706 and took over three decades to complete. Named after King James II, this relatively small fortress was once home to a garrison of 78 soldiers and 36 cannons. In its heyday, the cannons saluted every ship that entered the harbor and marked the sunrise and sunset. Many canyons are still in place and bear the Royal Cypher of King George III. It was interesting to think that these canons could have fired on American naval ships once upon a time.

Visiting Fort James was kind of a strange experience for me. The road to the fort was not well-signed, but it was an easy drive with Google Maps. When I reached the fort, the front gate was shut, and just a couple of guys were hanging out front. When I asked one of them when the fort would open, he told me it was open, and I just had to push the gate open. With no signage outside, I can’t help feeling like a trespasser. Luckily, two tourists with a private guide showed up soon afterward.

Fort James is in quite a dilapidated state with no official gatekeeper or interpretive information. The fortress took a toll with the attrition of time. I do wonder just how many visitors managed to visit this fort daily. It is neither impressive nor offers a great view of the harbor or the ocean. However, I do think it provides a great historical and geographic context for the founding of Saint John’s. If you were short on time, I would recommend Fort Barrington as your one outing from Saint John’s.

Fort Barrington stood at the opposite side of the harbor, a half-hour drive from Fort James. If one looks closely, you could see from one fortress to another. The fort sits on the hill, guarding Saint John’s Harbor and the nearby Deep Bay. This is the only fort in Antigua actively engaged in an actual battle. An earlier fort at this spot was captured and liberated from French troops in the 17th century. It reflected the strategic importance of this spot in the defense of Antigua.

Fort Barrington is definitely a very photogenic spot.

Visitors crossed a steel pedestrian bridge over a beautiful creek to access Fort Barrington. From there, it was a steep 10-minute hike to the top. A group of school kids visited the fort during my visit, adding a great deal of levity to this historic monument. In my finite wisdom, I wore my flip-flops this morning, and it was not until halfway up that I realized what a big mistake that was. Even though the fortress is a popular spot for both locals and tourists, there appeared to be no concerted efforts by the National Park Service to provide a safe path up the hill. All visitors had to scramble over rocks and grab onto the ropes.

When I reached the fortress, I was terrified of going downhill with improper footwear. I might have to take my flip-flops off to minimize the risk of slipping. At the same time, I was stunned by the beauty of the panoramic vistas in front of me. It is honestly the most beautiful spot I have visited in Antigua. From the top of the fortress, visitors have a view of the nearby Deep Bay but also of Galley Bay Beach and beyond. I later discovered Fort Barrington was also an important signaling station during the British colonial era.

As I was standing at the summit, I enjoyed overhearing other visitors’ conversations. One universal comment was just how spectacular this spot is. From this perch, I could appreciate why the British picked this spot as a lookout. Luckily, naval battles were things of the past in this part of the world. Thankfully, all the focus now is on all the white sand beaches as far as eyes could see. Even though it was only a short drive from the center of Saint John’s, I felt like I was a world away from the bustle of the modern city. This is just a perfect spot to wrap up your tour of Antigua’s pint-size capital!

▲