Antigua and Barbuda Itinerary - Winter 2022

Since Brian was spending a few months in Mexico for language school, I could either spend Thanksgiving with my in-laws in Massachusetts or a classic long weekend trip to a foreign country. When I thought about it, this was my first solo trip since Brian and I were together. It was a strange experience traveling solo once again. While I would love to visit Brian in Mexico, I found it difficult to justify the $950 airfare for a five-day trip. Instead, I used this opportunity to scour for deals on using my AAdvantage miles with American Airlines. I was amazed that a roundtrip direct flight ticket to Antigua cost only 38,000 miles. That was an amazing value, considering the cash value of the ticket was over $800 USD.

Not counting Puerto Rico, this would be my first time visiting a Caribbean nation, and I was quite excited about exploring a whole new region. Because of the size of Antigua, I was confident that I could explore the whole island in four or five days. Since I would not be staying at an all-inclusive resort, it was just the perfect amount of time to discover this fascinating island nation's natural and cultural dimensions. While most visitors came here for unspoiled beaches, the friendliness of Antiguans really impressed me.

Day 1

I woke up at 4 am to catch the morning flight out of New York’s Kennedy International Airport, so I felt very energized to start my solo trip to the Caribbean. To my surprise, there were four direct flights to Antigua from New York in the morning. Who knew Antigua and Barbuda were such popular destinations for Americans? The four-hour flight was a breeze. I was lucky to sit on the plane's right side and have beautiful views of the Island of Barbuda. Unfortunately, I could not get a spot for a guided tour of Barbuda on this trip, so I felt very fortunate to have at least a good glimpse of the fabled island.

The island of Barbuda, “the other island” of Antigua and Barbuda.

My first impression of the country was excellent. V. C. Bird International Airport is even more modern than many American airports. Right before the immigration checkpoint, a steelpan musician welcomed all the passengers. However, my excitement was short-lived. Once again, a supposedly rental car company (Avis) declined to honor my reservation. I was then shuttled to a random rental car business on the back street of Saint John’s. I was glad that they had at least one automatic car available, and it was only marginally more expensive than my reservation with Hertz. My trip would have been ruined if I had to rely on public transport or taxis.

From Saint John, it was a 35-minute ride to English Harbour in the southeastern section of the island. Driving on the left was always fun, and I was impressed by how chilled Antiguan drivers are, even during the peak of the rush hour. I will stay at Antigua Yacht Club Marina & Resort for this trip. Located right at the marina, the “resort” was a walking distance from Nelson's Dockyard and more than a dozen restaurants. Despite a killer view, the room has much left to be desired. It was twenty years past the need for renovation. There is a reason why this place is so much cheaper than its peers. But what bothered me was that they installed bright blue fluorescent bulbs in the room. Honestly, that was my No. 1 pet peeve in hospitality design.

The best about a crappy hotel room was the fact that I would be out and about exploring the island more. With more than 360 beaches on the island, people are never far from a beach. From the hotel, it was a ten-minute walk (or a two-minute drive) to the nearest beach. Far from being the most celebrated beach, Pigeon Point Beach is already better than any beach I have ever been to back home. As expected, the water was warm, and the amazing sunset was a great introduction to Antigua. For dinner, I dropped in at Roti Sue, a no-frill local eatery. This being my first Caribbean meal, I was surprised by how much I enjoyed the food. The highlight of the evening was chatting with Sue, the owner. The friendliness of Antiguans is just amazing.

Day 2

Given that no rain was in the forecast, I was surprised to wake up to the thunderous rains this morning. I always knew that weather forecasts could be unreliable in tropical regions, but I never expected heavy rain when the forecast was a bright blue sky. I decided to drive west toward the capital to escape from the rain. After stopping at Epicurean Supermarket for some supplies, I made a short drive to Dickenson Bay, allegedly the island's most popular and touristy beach. Luckily, I could catch a patch of blue sky right above the beach.

I visited two fortresses that guarded the mouth of the Bay of Saint John’s: Fort James and Fort Barrington. These opposing fortifications may be designated national parks but are not “actively managed,” which appeared “abandoned.” Of the two, the more impressive them would be Fort Barrington, which perched high above the hill, and it was quite a physical challenge to climb up. I hiked up with my flip-flops in my finite wisdom, which was dangerous. While the panoramic views were impressive, I was dreading getting down. It was honestly a terrifying endeavor.

For lunch, I was in the mood for a proper roti. Verna's Roti Hut is a hole-in-the-wall eatery in a residential neighborhood. At 23 ECD, it might be one of the cheapest meals in the capital. The freshly made roti was delicious. After lunch, I took the chance to visit Saint John’s, home to one-third of the island’s population. I have read wide-ranging opinions of the capital city; some describe it as a colorful and fun city, while others bemoan it as a depressing cruise port. I would say the reality was somewhere in between. With no cruise ship in port, the town was noticeably subdued. Being the first Caribbean capital and cruise port I ever visited, Saint John’s is fascinating is a fascinating place.

The high point of today is an event called “Rum in the Ruins, “which combined rum punches with historical talks by an archaeologist with the National Park’s Heritage Department. It was a unique concept that made history and archaeology more accessible to the public. But before the 5 pm. talk, I had the opportunity to visit Shirley Heights, which is often considered the most important tourist spot in the country. Situated inside Nelson’s Dockyard National Park, the former military lookout has a wonderful panoramic view of the dockyard and English Harbour. Despite its popularity, I practically had the whole to my own this time of the day. It was quite a surreal experience, to be honest.

Rum in the Ruins at Dow's Hill Interpretation Centre.

Rum in the Ruins was held every Friday at Dow's Hill Interpretation Centre, a fortress ruin inside the park. The admission price included two cups of rum punch and a killer sunset view. The talk covered many topics and is said to be different every week. Many participants appeared to be local expats who used this opportunity to get together with friends. I wrapped up my evening at Trappas, a highly recommended restaurant for local seafood. The food was good, but the highlight of my meal was chatting with the couple at the next table. They worked on a yacht and arrived in Antigua from Newport, Rhode Island. Of course, I could not help asking their opinion on the reality show Below Deck.

Day 3

Today is Saturday, and every guidebook seems to recommend visiting Saint John’s Saturday’s Market. Honestly, I did not have high expectations because public markets are designed for locals and do not necessarily sell the most interesting items. In some ways, my assumption was correct. This is a marketplace for fresh produce and day-to-day household items like brand-name cereal or laundry detergent. But with the right expectations, it was a great experience to see authentic Antigua, which is not directly related to the tourism economy. Saint John’s took on a slightly different ambiance with two cruises in port. I could also categorically say that cruise ports could be depressing.

The cruise port could be a little bit of a dystopic cityscape.

Before heading back toward the island's eastern side, I decided to stop at Antigua's Donkey Sanctuary. Located in the middle of the island off a gravel road, Antigua’s Humane Society ran the sanctuary and rescued many abandoned donkeys. Donkeys played an important role in Antigua, which was still an agrarian society. While this place may be firmly on the tourist trail, I could confidently say this is a legit animal sanctuary. The volunteers were genuinely happy to host visitors but were not pushy when soliciting donations. The girl working there told me it was not uncommon for them to host only four or five tourists daily. If this is a tourist trap, I would say it is not profitable.

For history lovers, Nelson's Dockyards is the most important sight in Antigua. The dockyard is centered around a natural harbor, a very important shelter for the Royal British Navy during the hurricane season. The dockyards are one of the best preserved Georgian military ensembles in the Western Hemisphere and are now listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Although no longer a military installation, it is now a popular stop for multi-million dollar yachts.

My favorite part of the park is Fort Berkeley, a ten-minute hike away at the mouth of the harbor. Despite being one of the most beautiful spots on the island, I probably had the whole fortress to myself. Right across from that spot is Galleon Beach, which is said to be a mass grave for British sailors, according to the archaeological talk from yesterday evening. I had a nice plate of jerk chicken for lunch at The Galley Bar. As the name suggests, this very spot was the main kitchen for the dockyards during the British colonial time.

A postcard-perfect view of English Habour from Shirley Heights Lookout.

As part of the national park admission, I also had access to Shirley Heights and The Blockhouse. Even though I was just at Shirley Heights the day before, it was great to see this iconic spot at different times. I only wish Brian was here because these are some awesome spots for photos. I had an awesome view of the coastline toward the northeast of the Blockhouse. All the sandy beaches reminded me that I hadn’t visited a beach today. From there, it was a thirty-minute drive to Half Moon Bay. Some claimed this is one of the best beaches on the island, and I could see why. It had just the right amount of public amenities and the wave is strong enough to be considered more adventurous.

I rounded up my afternoon back at Shirley Heights to watch the sunset. It was true that you never get the same sunset twice. I was glad that my hotel was so conveniently located relatively close to this spot. I could not imagine spending the evening anywhere else. For dinner, I treated myself to a splendid dinner at India Summer. I have decided not to care too much about the prices at Antigua and just live a little. After all, I am on vacation, right?

Day 4

Sunday in Antigua was interesting. Because it is a religious nation, many businesses and sights are closed on Sunday. With that in mind, I decided to make this my official beach day. Because I am not a beach bum, I was confident I could visit many beaches in just one day. Even though I am not a big tropical beach connoisseur, I have enough beaches to discern the good and the bad. Claimed to have at least 365 beaches in Antigua alone, people have much to say about all the offerings. I can’t spend five days in Antigua without visiting at least a dozen beaches, right?

To start the day, I visited another national park: Devil’s Bridge National Park. Located at the northeastern corner of the island, it is a natural stone arch with some associated traffic legends. Honestly, I was amazed at just how tiny the arch is. Afterward, I made a beeline south toward Carlise Bay Beach. I was slightly jealous of those who stayed at the nearby beachfront resort. I followed the coastal roads to the island's west side. My favorites are Ffryes Beach, Coco Beach, and Morris Bay. One thing to note is that all beaches have public access. So when I saw a sign warning the public to steer clear of “private property” at the Curtain Bluff Resort, I made the point to walk on their beach (and stress out their security guards).

For lunch, I decided to try out a roadside shack called Gina's Cook Shop. I had this little eatery pinned on my Google Maps for whatever reason, and I am so glad I did. Gina’s lunch dish of jerk chicken and stewed beef is probably the best single plate of food I have ever had in the past year. From macaroni salad to fried plantain, I will never say that I am never a fan of Caribbean food again. The barbeque grill of their jerk chicken was just magnificent.

Ffryes Beach got my nod as my favorite in Antigua.

After an afternoon of beach hopping, I hoped to tackle the most enigmatic site in the country. Greencastle Hill National Park is known for its collection of monoliths. Nicknamed the “Stonehenge of the Caribbean,” many archaeologists believe the formation of the monoliths is aligned with celestial cycles. Despite the claim, Greencastle Hill is seldom visited by locals or tourists. There is so little online information on how to get to the monolith. Confusingly, the entrance to the park is located in the middle of an active quarry. Just as I was to embark on the climb, a quarry worker approached me and instructed me to park outside the gate. Given that it was only an hour from the sunset, I decided to try it again tomorrow morning.

If you ask any Antiguans, the Sunday sunset party at Shirley Heights was the place to be. Admission to the party costs $10 USD. Compared to how quiet the place had been the previous evening, I was amazed by how crowded it was. The place was hopping with craft vendors, steel bands, and a live barbeque. While going to a party alone was depressing, the convivial atmosphere was infectious. Although this party appeared very touristy, the prices for the barbeque were quite reasonable and delicious. But I must admit that I went to a local KFC afterward. But in my defense, the locals would tell you they have the best KFC in the world. Antiguan Americans would order a bucket of fried chicken back to the United States.

Day 5

Today may be my last day on the island, but it was also the most hectic. I woke up at 6 am and was delighted to check out the hotel. It was the most disappointing and uncomfortable hotel I have ever stayed in. By seven, I was in the car, ready to take on Greencastle Hill National Park again. For some ungodly reason, Google Maps led me down an increasingly narrow dirt path. It was too late to turn around when I realized I was in trouble. I have never been so terrified During my years of traveling and driving off-road in various countries. I was driving a mini-car with very low clearance, so I truly believed I was about to total this car. Amazingly, the car survived with no visible scratches on the exterior. However, I could guarantee I did some serious damage to the undercarriage of this car. I have never been so relieved once I hit the asphalt roads again. Hallelujah!

Back at the entrance to the quarry, I began my hike up the big hill. It was an unusual hiking experience as I walked past giant excavators up the steep jeep trail on the side of the mountain. Surprisingly, I spotted my first megalith merely thirty feet off the trail. However, the wild grass made accessing it very challenging for those unprepared. Another fifteen minutes further brought me to a dead end, where I had to follow my gut to climb up the steep hill through an imaginary path. Wading through 4-foot-tall reed grass, I eventually found the grave site of Oliver Baldwin, the Governor of the Leeward Islands. I was beyond ecstatic to manage somehow to summit the hill. Even though it was not a long trek, it felt like the ultimate Antiguan adventure.

The open rock face of the quarry at Greencastle Hill National Park.

Before the 11 am. appointment for the cooking class, I had about thirty minutes to spare. I took this opportunity to visit Saint John’s massive Anglican Cathedral of Saint John’s. It seemed like the church was only open when cruise ships were in town. The volunteer at the church entrance aggressively solicited a donation to cash in on the tourism dollar. But judging from the conditions of the building, I am sure they are in constant need of funds for its upkeep.

Nicole’s scrumptious rum-cake is just sinfully delicious and boozy.

One of the best experiences on this trip is the cooking class at Nicole’s Table. The four-hour cooking class includes a rum-tasting session with Nicole’s husband, Adam, and a family-style lunch on Nicole’s wonderful veranda. To my surprise, traditional Antiguan dishes such as goat water or chop-up are conspicuously absent from the menu. Instead, the dishes are pan-Caribbean with a dose of international fusion. While the food was amazing, the afternoon's highlight was hanging out with Adam and Nicole and learning more about their family stories. Of course, I really can’t help asking them about the recent passing of the Queen and the politics on the island.

Sadly, I had to say goodbye to Adam and Nicole to catch the flight home. It was only a fifteen-minute drive to the airport, but I was terrified. I did not know whether there were damages to the car that I was not spotting. Luckily, the car rental staff gave an all-clear. You can’t imagine the relief. This trip to Antigua and Barbduda was more intense and eventful than I imagined. I am grateful for how warm and welcoming Antiguans are; it made this solo trip much more enjoyable.

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