So How Do You Like Marrakesh?

The Kingdom of Morocco has no shortage of amazing cities, such as Fez, Tangier, and Rabat, but Marrakesh is said to dazzle visitors the most with its vast collection of historical monuments and Berber heritage. It is impossible to understate how important Marrakech is to Moroccan tourism. Marrakesh’s star power is evidenced by the many foreign airlines flying into the city. Like many American travelers, we chose Marrakech as our first introduction to Morocco and Africa. It seemed like a natural jumping-off point for my two-week itinerary through southern Morocco. Needless to say, we had very high expectations.

With so much already written about this fabled city, Marrakesh seemed to have a nearly mystical status among travelers. The city was founded in 1070 as the capital of the Almoravid Empire, making it one of the four imperial cities of Morocco. While no longer the national economic or political center, Marrakesh became the standard bearer of preserving Moroccan tradition and hospitality. What makes this city unique is its strategic location at the foot of Atlas Mountain and its role as a gateway into the Sahara. Even today, Marrakesh is often regarded as the world’s premier Berber city and embodies the country’s cultural complexity.

In total, I spent just a little over four days in Marrakesh. While I won’t call myself an expert on the city, I think I have a relatively basic grasp of Medina by walking large sections of the town at different hours. More importantly, we got to speak with locals and feel the beats of this metropolis. Rather than writing about specific monuments in the post, I would like to share some personal thoughts about my observations of the city from the perspective of an architect and urbanist. This post aims to answer the question: How do you like Marrakesh?

If the first impression is everything, Marrakesh sure did not disappoint. Because this was our first time in Morocco, we opted for a pre-arranged pickup service from the riad where we stayed. The drive from the airport to the city center was quite surprising. The causeway-like boulevards are lined with manicured sidewalks with tall palm trees. It resembles more like a fancy suburb of Los Angeles than what I pictured of Morocco. The traffic was more orderly than back home in New Jersey. Sign signage for McDonald’s and Carrefour also gave me a fresh perspective on modern Morocco.

The intersection of Marrakesh city wall and Mohammed V Avenue.

As soon as we crossed Medina, it became a completely different world. The roads are instantly crawled with motorbikes, bikes, and even quite a large number of donkey carts. Having grown up in Asia, I was certainly not phased by the urban chaos of Marrakech. As awful as it may sound, I was happy to see the “authentic” Marrakesh we read about. Our driver dropped us at one of the larger roads to meet with the riad’s manager. From there, it was a five-minute walk through twisting narrow lanes. The part of Medina we stayed at was not particularly touristy; it let us get acquainted with the locals’ daily rhythm. Amenities such as butchers (with live chicken) and communal bread ovens.

Despite Marrakesh’s popularity with foreign tourists, much of Medina retains its “authentic” characters. Within the walls of Medina, new construction is regulated for maximum heights and construction materials. Although not all structures are in traditional styles, nothing appears out of place in this historic city. It may be tempting to compare Marrakesh to great European cities like Barcelona or Lisbon, but the reality is that a big portion of the city could appear quite chaotic. The souk covers a large section of Medina and does not appear to have a defined boundary like most European public markets.

It took us about an hour or two to grasp typical items on sale: spices, rugs, apparel, and copperware. I only wish that we had a giant house to fill and decorate. Even though we were not in the market for homewares, we can’t help but marvel at the wonderful craftsmanship. According to locals, the souq is roughly divided into different zones specializing in trades or crafts. Navigating to a particular section might be challenging for shoppers with a purpose. But with the help of Google Maps and some patience, navigating the maze-like narrow alleys is part of the charm.

This was the ground central of the souk in Marrakesh.

Ask visitors about their most quintessential Marrakesh experience; it would not be hammam or street food on Jemaa el-Fnaa Square. Instead, it will likely deal with the endless stream of persistent shopkeepers. Unless you look North African or speak fluent Arabic or Amazigh, all the proprietors will jump out in front of you to invite you into their shops. Many savvy shopkeepers are eager to offer free samples of sweets or a whiff of perfume. That may sound great, but it could get tiresome quickly. But my least favorite were vendors who tried hard to befriend you by asking where you were from and not getting to their sales pitch quickly. You feel almost rude by ignoring them, which is not a particularly good feeling.

The copperware stores like this one were my favorite.

This harassment by vendors is particularly aggravating at the night market on Jemaa el-Fnaa Square. Often regarded as the most lively square in Africa, Jemaa el-Fnaa, the daily night market was quite a sight. Marrakesh is famous among Moroccans for its vibrant street food culture. I was unfazed by the chaos because I grew up with night markets in Taiwan. But I could see how this place could be intimidating for the uninitiated. However, I was not prepared for how these vendors would go to get our business. When I walked by a row of juice stances, at least a dozen began yelling out different things to get my attention. Among the things they called out to me were Sawadee Ka, Gangnam Style, Sushi, and Kung Pao! It was hilarious and borderline offensive… unlike anything I have ever encountered.

The juice stand of the Jemaa el-Fnaa Square.

It took me a few days to be used to “harassment” from vendors and figure out a polite way to deal with the situation. It turns out that ignoring these guys is ineffective. Rather, the best thing you could say was: “Thank you. Maybe I will come back later”. In most cases, vendors were happy that you appeared to be at least somewhat open-minded to their pitch. A little banter back and forth could do wonders in a culture where bargaining is part of daily life. Another trick I learned was to raise my right hand, place it in front of my heart, and bow slightly. This polite and serious gesture stops even the most aggressive vendors on their track. Perhaps you could try that out on your next visit to Morocco.

Though generally considered a relatively safe city for foreign tourists, Marrakesh has risks. Terrorism or violent crime against tourists may not be an issue here, but I do want to caution that foreigners could easily mistake cunning touts for welcoming locals. When a friendly man approached you to ask whether you needed direction, he would demand a tip upon “his service of providing directions.” This expectation for payment could be uncomfortable or even lead to disputes.

For that reason, we decided not to visit the tannery of Marrakesh. I read so many horror stories of how it was nearly impossible to visit this supposedly “free” sight. Tourists would be forcibly escorted by an unsolicited guide and demanded ridiculous amounts of money. Even though I am quite a confident traveler and don’t get scared easily, it was not worth the hassle. After all, how important is it to see a tannery?

Another important issue we could foresee would be Morocco’s gender imbalance in public life. As two adult males, we had no issue navigating Marrakech or Morocco. Since Morocco remains a male-dominant society, we found it is not too common to interact with Moroccan women except at some dining establishments. Many other foreign visitors reported how different female travelers encountered everything from uncomfortable stares to catcallings. Even for seasoned female travelers with appropriate dress, Marrakesh could still be a challenge. Some female travelers also mention that some shopkeepers would only interact with their male travel companions. I have no idea whether that would be out of cultural respect or masculine superiority.

Rugs are perhaps the most popular Moroccan souvenirs.

Constant harassment aside, one source of grave frustration for me was photography etiquette. As a travel blogger, I enjoy travel photography. But doing street photography in Medina could be quite a potential minefield. Morocco is one of those countries where most of the population doesn’t want their photograph taken for personal, religious, or cultural reasons. As in anywhere in the world, it is always polite to ask permission from the person of interest, especially women or children. Conscious of that fact, I knew I could not stick my giant camera in front of people’s faces without permission. However, many shopkeepers take this taboo one step further by demanding payment for any pictures, even if they were not even the primary and secondary subject matter in the picture of a busy street. The same extends to taking photos of their shops or any merchandise they have.

Now, I understand that the locals are probably sick of tourists taking a million pictures of their shop without ever buying anything, but this payment-for-photo ritual is time-consuming and transactional. Of course, Moroccans are a friendly bunch at heart. Most shopkeepers would be happy to pose for a couple of shots if you purchased something from them or after conversing with them. But honestly, I just found it to be quite tiring. Lucky for us, we visited during the 2022 FIFA World Cup waning days, with Morocco playing Croatia for the bronze medal. With most Moroccans glued to their television or cell phones, I thoroughly enjoyed the freedom of snapping pictures without anybody noticing.

After figuring out the best way to “manage” the pushy vendors, I felt more relaxed as I strolled around the medina. I think Marrakesh’s Medina could be quite physically exhausting. With so much public space occupied by entrepreneurial vendors, very few public spaces are dedicated to public recreation within the city wall. I did not encounter a public bench in the city center, not even at Jemaa el-Fnaa Square. To get the necessary respite from the urban chaos, locals head to Parc Lalla Hasna, just outside the medieval wall. As in much of the Arabic world, privacy and modesty are paramount. Streets are purposefully narrow to shelter pedestrians from the intense summer heat. I would argue Marrakesh is a physically “introspective” city. For most visitors, however, the most treasured “recreational spaces” are the numerous private riads hidden behind the nondescript walls lining the narrow lanes of Medina.

For first-time visitors to Morocco, a riad is a traditional house centered around a flowing fountain in the central courtyard. This type of residence traces its roots to the Greco-Roman villas and the Persian gardens. In Morocco, riads are urban mansions of the upper class and could be two or two stories tall. The structures are usually large enough to accommodate an extended family of about two dozen. With the rise of foreign tourism, most of Marrakesh’s abandoned riads have been bought up by foreign investors to be converted into luxurious guesthouses. Consequently, “riad” is now synonymous with traditional urban lodging in Morocco.

Most Moroccan riads have almost no windows facing the public street, which gives the house either a serene or a claustrophobic feel depending on the size and the configurations of a particular riad. Personally speaking, I have always avoided courtyard rooms like a plague. Even though the two roads I stayed on were beautiful in terms of architecture and decor, I can’t say I could cope well with the lack of view and direct sunlight. That said, staying at a riad should be integral to your Marrakesh experience. Picking the “right” riad seems like a prime obsession for both travel influencers and some travel writers. There seem to be hundreds of blog posts on “The Best Riads In Marrakech.” I am convinced social media and the desire for a few glamour shots primarily drive this. In actuality, each riad only has six to ten rooms, so the odds of you being able to book a room at these raids were not great.

Riads come in all sizes and styles. Riad Awa was Moroccan elegant and comfortable for me.

Speaking of riads, the ultimate accommodation would probably be Royal Mansour Marrakech. Located just outside of Mdina, it was constructed under the king's patronage and is often regarded as the best hotel in the world. Starting at $1,600 a night during the low season, this place is the definition of luxury and indulgence. I first read about this place from the BBC program Amazing Hotels: Life Beyond the Lobby. Despite all the extravagance, the program also pointed out how isolated visitors may feel very isolated from fellow travelers and the city. To me, this is a very accurate critique of any riads. No matter how luxurious they are, spending most of your time in a riad defeats the purpose of being in Marrakesh.

While I may sound overly critical of riads, I admit that Morrocco (and Marrakesh especially) has a knack for well-appointed accommodations at reasonable price points. The courtyard-facing rooms are also perfect for blocking unwanted noise from the urban bustle. Another excellent way to experience Marrakesh’s riads would be to dine at one of the city’s numerous high-end restaurants. In particular, I would like to recommend Le Jardin. Set in a beautifully renovated 16th-century mansion, it is a sublime urban oasis and perhaps the most atmospheric restaurant I have visited. Another popular place I would recommend would be Le Jardin’s sister restaurant, Nomad. Nomad is well-known not only for its modern Moroccan cuisine but also for its beautiful roof terrace. This might be the best spot for a sunset dinner.

As “wonderfully authentic” as Medina is, I hate to admit that my favorite part of Marrakesh is the modern section: Gueliz (or Ville Nouvelle). Besides the popular Jardin Majorelle and Yves Saint Laurent Museum, this modern city gave a glimpse of an entirely different side of Marrakech. This neighborhood was laid out during the French Protectorate and was the preferred area for the French colonial class in the bygone era. Some locals still referred to this area as the “French Quarter” colloquially, even though this ethnic segregation was a thing of the past. Gueliz is known for its great collection of Art Deco buildings nestled among the modern apartment blocks on Haussmann-like boulevards.

On the surface, Gueliz may not seem beautiful, but this is the ground zero for Marrakesh’s thriving art scenes. There are numerous art museums and art galleries. The admission-free Comptoir des Mines Galerie is particularly enjoyable for its rotating exhibits and architecture. For those not interested in buying traditional crafts (me included), Gueliz is home to many design boutique shops and hipster cafes, forming a jarring contrast with the raucous atmosphere of Medina. At the risk of sounding sacrilegious, I was glad to see places like McDonald’s, Zara, and Starbucks teeming with Moroccans of all ages. It reminded us that we travelers could often overly romanticize a place like Marrakesh, and we often choose to block out the effect of globalization and modernity during our travels.

After all the years of travel, I have never been so conflicted about how I feel about a city as I do about Marrakesh.. As the biggest tourist magnet of Morocco, the city certainly has a plethora of historical monuments to impress. But except for Madrasa Ben Youssef, none of the historical monuments truly blew us away, to be honest. After our two-week trip through Southern Morocco, Marrakech stood out as a place we love to dislike because of our sky-high expectations. Brian and I felt completely exhausted by the end of our visit. We will not actively avoid Marrakesh in the future, but we won’t be rushing back.

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