Suomenlinna - The Gibraltar of the North

Compared to great Nordic capitals like Stockholm or Copenhagen, Helsinki is quite a young and modern city. It does not trace its roots back to medieval times. As a result, Helsinki does not have an old town or picturesque twisting lanes. Because there has never been a Finnish monarchy, Helsinki has no regal palace and barely any royal monuments. Although officially founded by a Swedish king in 1550, Helsinki has always been the political backwater and has a tiny population. Despite a forceful relocation of the aristocratic class from nearby Poorvo and Rauma, wars, famine, and plagues kept Helsinki just another provincial town. What makes Helsinki the metropolis today could largely be attributed to the construction of one single fortress: Suomenlinna, the Castle of Finland.

Restaurant Saaristo out on its own island.

Visiting Suomenlinna is somewhat of a must-do for any first-time visitor to Helsinki. In the rare instance that you want to escape the hustle and bustle of Helsinki, an afternoon trip to Suomenlinna is a perfect escape into nature while soaking a dose of Finland's past. Designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1991, the vast sea fortress is an exemplary sample of the "fortification principles of the 17th and 18th centuries, notably the bastion system, and also showcases individual characteristics". At its creation, it was hailed as the most heavily fortified fortress in Europe, thus earning the nickname “Gibraltar of the North.”

Situated just a short 12-minute ferry ride from Market Square in central Helsinki, the fortress is not just a relic of the past but also an integral fabric of Helsinki despite its physical isolation. Unlike New York's ferry service to the Statue of Liberty, the ferry to Suomenlinna was part of the public transit system, also known as HSL. With an unlimited day pass from HSL, we could hop on the frequent ferry and enjoy the beautiful Helsinki skyline and various archipelago islands. Despite the crush of visitors during the height of summer, the ride felt very calming. Like Finland, there was an atmosphere of great serenity, a world away from Suomenlinna's military past.

Serenity of the ferry was almost reminiscent of a surrealist painting by René Magritte. — Serenity of the ferry was almost reminiscent of a surrealist painting by René Magritte.

Even though the ferry to the fortress may be crowded, there would never be any concern about overcrowding. Suomenlinna comprises a collection of eight separate islands with a total land area of approximately 200 acres. Far from being a closed-off historical site, this group of islands was part of the city of Helsinki with its own residential complex for nine hundred, a post office, schools, a grocery store, and even a public library. It was said that the demand for a state-owned apartment is so high that I have read that people spent up to ten years on the waitlist to call this place home. In addition to the various museums dedicated to Finnish military history, the site also houses the Finnish Naval Academy (Merisotakoulu). It is not difficult to imagine that many tourists could have easily mistaken private apartments as another cultural site anyone could walk in.

Suomenlinna History Is That of Finland's

Suomenlinna's vast expanse could seem overwhelming to first-time visitors. The best wayfinding is to follow the crowd through the main thoroughfare, which would inevitably lead you to the visitor center and museum. Along the way, the first structure of interest was the Suomenlinna Church, set on a prominent hill on the left side of the path. The Greek cross form and plain exteriors are particularly striking. Upon further investigations, the structure was constructed as the Church of Alexander Nevsky, a Russian Orthodox Church.

The cannon decoration around the church indicated its function as a military chapel. After the Finnish independence, the church was stripped of its icons and characteristic onion domes to convert it to the Finnish Lutheran congregation. In a good protestant fashion, the interior was completely whitewashed. The evolution of the church is a perfect illustration of the history of Suomenlinna. The fort was commissioned to become the bastion along the eastern frontier of the Kingdom of Sweden. It was meant to be the main deterrent against the ever-increasing encroachment from Russia.

The force was appropriately called Sveaborg (Castle of Sweden). Interestingly, that name is still in use by the Swedish minority in Finland today, and the name Sveaborg is displayed side by side on all official signage. Like in Finland, the early years of fort construction were difficult due to the lack of financial resources, manpower, and basic sanitation. Augustin Ehrensvärd, a Swedish military officer, conceived the design and construction. Ehrensvärd's design integrated into the rugged coast of the islands and created a massive fortress town capable of supplying the needs of the entire Finnish contingent of the Royal Swedish Navy.

Ehrensvärd started the construction in 1747 and continued to expand on it until he died in 1772. As we passed through the Bastion Höpkenl, a primary entry of the inner fortress, we arrived at the very inter-sanctum of Suomenlinna. Colloquially referred to as ‘the Square,’ this little plaza was where all the most important military officers resided. Today, some of these former officer residences are now art museums showcasing art paintings done by these officers, including Ehrensvärd himself. In the middle of the square is the monumental sarcophagus of Ehrensvärd. Shaped as a Galleon, the tomb seemed like a big hit for kids and young adults. Despite repeated warnings from tour guides and some Finns, kids seem not to help to climb atop the tomb.

Our first glance of some serious fortification

Regarding tour guides, Suomenlinna offers an official guide tour, which departs from the museum regularly. The museum, offering free admission with the Helsinki Card, provides a detailed history of the Suomenlinna. The enjoyable museum offered useful information for an otherwise sprawling, low-rise sea fortress. The massive architectural model at the front is perhaps the best way to orient ourselves. But it was a little difficult to stay indoors when it was a beautiful Nordic summer day outside. But if anyone only wishes to spend half an hour at the museum, forgo the galleries upstairs and enjoy the short introductory film that will provide the quickest overview of the history of Suomenlinna.

The Greatest Irony For A Magnificent Fort

Ironically, the extensive building of defensive architecture during the decades did not play its part in defending against Russian aggression. In the spring of 1808, at the start of the Finnish War between Sweden and Russia, Suomenlinna and the Swedish fleet were surrendered unconditionally by Swedish commander Carl Olof Cronstedt after only two weeks of minor skirmishes. The precise reason for seeming capitulation is now a subject of academic debate and public imagination.

Some have suggested that the Swedish crown purposefully scapegoated Cronstedt. His lack of judgment on the surrender provided the necessary excuse for the King to explain away Sweden's loss of its Finnish territories. Others suggest that Cronstedt's surrender was simply unavoidable due to the weakness of Sweden's military strength at that moment. His negotiated surrender of Suomenlinna was entirely attributed to the safety of his soldiers and civilian refugees inside the walls of the fortress.

Unsurprisingly, Cronstedt was later trialed for high treason and sentenced to death by the Swedish crown. Being blamed for the loss of Finland, he was universally condemned in history books and even by Finns. Although the transfer from one foreign power to another seemed like a rather benign event, the capitulation was universally viewed as an embarrassment by Finland. But no matter what the reason was, the surrender marked a major turning point in the history of Finland as Sweden ceded the eastern half of the kingdom to Russia. The Grand Principality of Finland was established in 1807 within the Russian Empire, which precedes the modern republic today. Like their cousin Estonians, the Finns did not get to establish their own countries until the fall of the Romanovs after the First World War.

Walking the rempart toward the King’s Gate.

Typical of the fortress of cannon age, the walls are thick and squat. At first glance, Ehrensvärd's creation seemed quite underwhelming, especially from afar. If we were accustomed to the dramatic defensive castles like the Tower of London, we were bound to be disappointed. But having visited the famed Fort McHenry in Baltimore, which was constructed in the same period, the immensity and complexity of Suomenlinna could not be more apparent. The layers of the defensive structure were genuinely integrated into the rocky coastline.

There are plenty of tunnels and underground chambers. The sprawling bastions and ramparts are made perfect for a moment of solitude. Given the idyllic landscape, it was easy to see Suomenlinna as one of Helsinki's best public parks. Although a national historical monument, the atmosphere was laid back and convivial. Buried within the ramparts are surprisingly large numbers of art galleries and restaurants.

To take shelter from the relentless sea breeze, we stopped at Ravintola Walhalla to enjoy their wonderful brick-oven pizza. Of course, we also got a pint of Lapin Kulta, one of the most popular beers in Finland. Although we sat outside to enjoy the sun and crisp blue sky, the brick-vaulted interior was very atmospheric, and it would have been a great place for a romantic dinner. A few steps away from the restaurant is King's Gate (Kuninkaanportti). This was the ceremonial entrance during the Swedish period and was constructed to welcome a visit by King Adolf Frederick officially. It was indeed a rare corner of Suomenlinna adorned with anything resembling a cornerstone of Swedish Finland.

Sadly, the importance of Suomenlinna diminished greatly during the Russian period. The grand plans of the early years were never fully realized. Except for a 48-hour bombardment during the Crimean War, the fortress saw little military action. Despite modest repair, the mammoth sea fortress diminishes to statute in importance within the Russian security network. The relative peace during the Russian period might explain Finland's unique relationship with Russia in the modern era. It was not until the independence of Finland in 1917 and the subsequent civil war that the Suomenlinna regained its significance.

A Tribute To Finnish Armed Forces

In the early years of Finland, the fort functioned as a major prison for prisoners of the Civil War. Due to the abhorrent conditions, many ended up dying without facing a trial. With the advancement of modern warfare, the functional use of Suomenlinna as a military installation became obsolete. And it was not until 1972 that the last military regiment left Suomenlinna. And today, the only military presence around is the Naval Academy. However, the Manege Military Museum is well worth a visit. The idea of a military museum was never that enticing. But because the admission is included in our Helsinki Card, we decided on a quick stop. Even though our visit was brief, it made a strong impression on me.

The nondescript exterior of the Manege Military Museum.

Today, most people think of Finland as the happiest nation on earth and among the most advanced and egalitarian societies. Perhaps few foreigners are aware of the nation's difficult early history. It ranked among the poorest nations in Europe and was engulfed in a bitter civil war immediately after independence. Due to its geopolitical vulnerability, the young nation became a battleground for the proxy war between the Russian-backed socialist (Finnish Red) and the German-backed social democrats (Finnish White). The war ended with a victory for the Whites; Suomenlinna became a de facto prison for prisoners of war. It was estimated that more than 14,000 died here.

As in any civil war, the death toll was enormous, and the battle tore up the fabric of the young nation. Perhaps this post-war division in civil society put Finland on the path toward shared prosperity and military neutrality. Today, Finland is a proud member of the European Union but opted to stay out of NATO. Finland, with a mere population of five million, enjoyed a strong reputation for its military readiness. Decades of being at the front of the Iron Curtain hardened the Finnish soul. The country has been dubbed the "prepper nation' because of its enormous stockpile of military and basic medical and vital supplies.

The military museum contains numerous artifacts, including uniforms, weaponry, and trench reconstructions on the front line. One of the most interesting objects on display was the historical flag of the Finnish Air Force. The black Swastika certainly raised plenty of questions. Of course, I distinctly remembered Finland's participation in the Siege of Leningrad along with the Nazis. Was this the flag adopted when Finland collaborated with the Nazis to fight the Soviets (also known as Continuation War)? To my great relief, the swastika was a pre-Christian symbol, and it was adopted by Finnish Air Force in 1918, well before the rise of Nazism. I was just glad that Finland, a progressive Nordic nation, was not celebrating a symbol of Nazism.

The smallest museum at Suomenlinna: Finnish submarine Vesikko. — The smallest museum at Suomenlinna: Finnish submarine *Vesikko*.

If you were not a museum person, you might be interested in climbing aboard Vesikko, a 1930-era submarine of the Finnish Navy. Served in the Winter and Second World Wars, the submarine was never meant for military use. Constructed in Turku as a prototype of a commercial submarine, Vesikko served proudly as one of the five Finnish submarines ever built. Despite only sinking one vessel during its service, the submarine is now a beloved vessel and a tribute to the difficult years of war against the Soviet Union. As part of the Paris Peace Treaty of 1944, Finland was prohibited from possessing offensive weapons, including submarines. This effectively put vessels like Vesikko into permanent retirement. This Cold War-era restriction is still partly in place, and the Finnish Navy is perhaps less formidable for the nation because of its stature.

For whatever reason, Vesikko is the only Finnish submarine to escape the fate of the scrapyard. The interior of Vesikko is extremely cramped, and it seems like there is barely any room to maneuver. Ironically, much of the equipment we see aboard is somewhat of a result of reconstruction. To abide by the treaty, much of the original interior was removed. However, you would never know that otherwise. Not knowing much about the anatomy of a submarine or any military craft, the visit was extremely short indeed. It took us just three minutes to see it all. It would have been a lot more fun with a kid, though. But for €7 admission, it was quite an expensive visit. Luckily for us, Vesikko is also covered under our Helsinki Card.

As we boarded the ferry back to central Helsinki, we could appreciate why Suomenlinna is one of the city's top tourist attractions and a popular getaway for citizens of Helsinki. With all the history aside, these islands are a great place to enjoy the beautiful coastline and the green landscape. There is not a particular must-see monument. Instead, Suomenlinna is just a wonderful escape. Although I do think it was probably not the best place to visit in the depth of winter. Similarly, I am unsure about living there when the sun sets at 2 pm. in December.

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Suomenlinna - The Gibraltar of the North

Suomenlinna History Is That of Finland's

The Greatest Irony For A Magnificent Fort

A Tribute To Finnish Armed Forces

Detour to Chiatura & Katskhi

My Impression of Oman