My Impression of Oman
Not everything we experience in our travels could be life-changing or earth-shattering, but it doesn't mean they are not fascinating. Everywhere we went, we discovered some seemingly trivial things that made some big impressions on us. It is also some of the same discoveries we think are just as fascinating and memorable as any marquee attraction. While we can’t say that anything we observed here is unique to Oman, it intrigued us.
There is No Public Address System in Oman
Oman was the first country we visited that did not have a comprehensive postal address system. They have post offices and a national postal service, Oman Post, but there is no system for road naming or house numbers as we understand it in the West. Home or commercial deliveries are not services that Oman Post would provide. Instead, a resident has to sign up for a PO box and visit their local post offices frequently to get their mail. I quickly discovered this as I booked the accommodations for the trip. Instead of a physical address, you could type into Google Maps; the address given is almost always a PO box. The wayfinding system could be confusing even in bigger and more developed cities like Muscat or Nizwa. Many roads in Muscat are unnamed, and some have a not-so-intuitive four-digit number.
Uthman Ibn Affan Mosque in Sur
Take the hotel we stayed at, Centara Muscat Hotel Oman, for example; it is located on "Way 6816". I seriously doubt even 1% of Muscat residents could point us to Way 6816. Part of the current situation is indicative of the rapid development of Oman in the past few decades; new streets and developments are constantly being planned. How do you give direction in Oman? Well, there will be a lot of references to physical surroundings, such as this place being the 'white building with a big archway and across from XYZ restaurant". For those of you who are slightly worried, it is not as challenging as it sounds. I can tell you from my first-hand experience that GPS coordinates from Google’s satellite maps are your best friends in Oman! In fact, I had a full spreadsheet of GPS coordinates set up before leaving home, and it could not be handier.
Elegant middle class residence in Sur.
Roadside mosque in the Musandam Peninsula.
According to the news outlets, the government has planned to introduce a unified address system; it is projected to be implemented by 2020 at the earliest. It is necessary as Oman embraces the digital world and tourism. At the same time, it would be sad to see this unique quirk of Oman be a thing of the past.
Pepsi Products Rule!
In a country without alcohol readily available, sugary drinks seem to be the main vice for not just Omanis but Muslims in general. At most restaurants, waiters were simply surprised when we did not order juices or sodas. We were puzzled and didn't even think they were disappointed with the sales. Instead of a wine and beer list, nearly all eateries have an extensive juice list, and many places could get quite creative with their virgin cocktails. Just as difficult to find as a beer, it would take you a little effort to track down a can of Coca-Cola in Oman.
Aside from Lulu Hypermarkets and the Shangri-La resorts, we did not see any Coke products. Toward the end of our trip, it became more of a game for us to spot anything that bears the Coca-Cola logo. On our way to Sur from Wadi Banin Kalid, we stopped at every single gas station to investigate the availability of Coca-Cola. We even considered popping in a McDonald's to see whether they would serve Pepsi.
Dairy Queen at Muscat.
Kentucky Fried Chicken outlet at Muscat’s Mutrah Corniche.
In case you are wondering, there are plenty of American fast food and restaurant chains in Oman, but very few outside of Muscat. During our two-week visit, we spotted Burger King, McDonald's, Chili's, Popeye's, Baskin Robins, Texas Fried Chicken, Shake Shack, Charley's Philly Steaks, Pizza Hut, Domino's, Five Guys, Starbucks, Costa Coffee, Caribou Coffee, and Cold Stone Creamery. Thankfully, Oman offers plenty of great restaurants, and we did not resort to any of these American standbys. If anything, a decent cup of Americano or Espresso from Costa Coffee or Starbucks may be all you need among these Western chains.
Spiced Coffee or Nescafé? Take Your Pick?
Arabic coffee is an integral part of the culture in this part of the world. Qahwa, the Omani coffee, is spiced with cardamom and carries traditions and customs of its own. Often served with a bowlful of local dates, the coffee is always presented to the guests as the most obvious sign of hospitality. Because of the symbolic importance, the drinking of Qahwa is filled with quietly observed rituals. For example, the cup should be filled at the only quarter as filling it to the top is interpreted as disrespect. If the cup has a crack, even if it is unnoticeable, it cannot be used, especially with guests in the house. When the guest feels that he has enough coffee, one should slightly shake the cup while handing it to his host, indicating to him to stop pouring. The Qahwa cups are quite unique to the culture and are very much reminiscent of the teacups in East Asia.
Omani coffee & dates at Bait Al Luban (بيت اللبان)
I am not going to lie but Qahwa may be an acquired taste for some. But we quickly grew to appreciate the uniquely aromatic and rounded flavors of the Omani coffee. But aside from the distinctive Qahwa, the coffee scene in Oman was quite a letdown. A week into our trip, one drink that we missed was not a glass of wine but standard American drip coffee. Perhaps due to its long-standing British influences, Omanis has a love affair with packaged Nescafé instant coffee. Even at decent hotels, Nescafé seems the name of the game, particularly outside of Muscat. That is not to say that Italian-espresso is not available; you just have to pay dearly for it. Sadly we had to find out the hard way with a 3 OMR ($7.80 USD) espresso at the Nizwa Souq.
Different Kind of Takeout Orders
Given the wealth of its citizens, Oman is a fairly car-dependent country. It came as a surprise initially that there are very few drive-throughs in the country, except at a few Western fast food outlets. But that doesn't mean Omanis must leave their cars for take-out orders. Every business, from laundromats to burger joints, offers curbside delivery and ordering. Customers would pull up to the entry and honk. Honestly, it was a little bit of an odd experience at first. Dining al fresco at the front of restaurants could be quite disruptive as cars pull up next to your table one after another and seemingly honking straight in your face.
But it only took us a few days to get accustomed to it. We have eventually turned around and admired the level of services businesses provide to their customers. Imagine you could drive to your favorite restaurant in your town and get your food delivered to your car windows with some honking. It was a pretty sweet service. Because of this special local habit, employees often pay great attention to who pulls up to their storefront. At first, it seemed uncomfortable and awkward when the store clerks snooped at you by the entrance. But after a short while, you came to feel like a VIP!
Cats, Flies & Goats
Oman is an outdoor destination, so naturally, you could expect close encounters with various wildlife. Of course, camels and goats came into the mind of our stereotypical image of Oman. And it was partially true. The first skill you acquired in Oman was the keen eyesight for spotting goats. They could appear from anywhere and are generally friendly without being overly aggressive. On our first full day in Oman, we did ask our guide about the goat situation... There do not seem to be clear markings or tags on any of the goats that roam the country freely. How are they being managed and kept tracked? Theft was not a problem, and the goats all knew better and returned to their home pane after dark. Aside from Muscat, you would find wandering goats in almost any Omani city.
Amazing goat pane we saw in the village of Tiwi in Musandam.
Goat auction market at Nizwa Souq.
But the most memorable encounter with animals in Oman was at this grilled seafood restaurant in Muttrah. Just across the street from the Fish Souq, the hole-in-the-wall eatery, the Fisher Grilled, enjoyed a solid reputation as an authentic and affordable seafood joint. Did we not realize this would be a meal to remember? The food was decent and a good deal for two at 10 OMR. But what set this experience apart was the simultaneous assaults from strayed cats, gusting wind, and swarms of buzzing flies. No matter how delicious the fish may be, enjoying a good meal in such an environment is impossible. Remarkably, the locals were all taking it all in stride. Perhaps this is simply a price to pay for the pleasant winter weather in the Middle East.
Just a final thought... it is true that you don't see many strayed or domesticated dogs in the Middle East. During our two-week stay, we saw exactly two canines in Oman, and Western ex-pats keep both!
