Bronze Age Necropolis of Al-Ayn
Bearing the label of "UNESCO World Heritage Site" could often bring the prestige and tourism dollars that are the envy of local communities. The designation may offer little to no de facto legal protection, but it certainly raises international awareness for preservation. Many avid travelers have made it their life-long mission to plan their travels around visiting as many UNESCO heritage sites as possible, no matter how boring and unworthy some sites might be. Okay, I promise that I am not one of them, but I am certainly more than willing to take the time to visit them when the opportunities arise.
It is one of the most remarkable UNESCO World Heritage Site that I have ever been.
While planning our trip to Oman, I immediately checked the list of UNESCO heritage sites of Oman on Wikipedia. For a land that has been at a cultural crossroads for the millennium, I was quite surprised that there are only four designated sites in the Sultanate. Of the four inscribed sites in Oman, we only missed out on the "Land of Frankincense" due to its location in the country's Dhofar Governorate in the southern part. Most infamously, Oman is also home to one of the world's only two "de-listed" UNESCO heritage sites. In 2007, UNESCO made an unprecedented step by removing Oman's "Arabian Oryx Sanctuary" from the inscription due to the reduction of the protected sanctuary area.
Communing with the ancient spirit of the prehistoric “Magans” people.
Luckily, the other three sites are only roughly 90 minutes away and could be easily covered if you set up your base in Nizwa or the nearby town of Bahla. Located roughly an 80-minute drive west of Nizwa, the necropolis at Al-Ayn is the smallest of the three groups of beehive tombs that made up the "Archaeological Sites of Bat, Al-Khutm, and Al-Ayn.” Despite its size, Al-Ayn is the best-preserved of the three groups and perhaps the most visitor-friendly despite the lack of tourist amenities. These tombs date to the Hafit period (ca. 3100-2700 BCE), the earliest period in Oman’s Bronze Age (ca. 3100-1250 BCE). The tombs are beehive-esque-shaped cairn-like structures where up to 30 Magans, the ancient people of modern northwestern Oman, could be interred.
Five thousand years ago, this region was a significant population center, based largely on copper mining for trade with Mesopotamia. To this day, little is known still about the ancient Magans. For the most comprehensive look at what is known about this ancient population, visit the newly minted National Museum of Oman in Old Town, Muscat. There, a collection of exquisite artifacts from this area is on display and is beautifully presented. The museum also exhibits a 1:1 replica of one of the beehive tombs from Al-Ayn.
Jebal Misht on the way to Wadi Dhum.
The unmarked gravel path to the tombs.
For me personally, this may be the oldest man-made structure that I have ever come in physical contact with. Unlike the Egyptian Pyramid or Ireland's Newgrange, these tombs are humble in scale but still exhibit great precision in craftsmanship and engineering know-how. A collection of 21 beehive tombs of various conditions makes up the Al-Ayn site. One can't help but marvel at the state of preservation despite the absence of conservation efforts by the Omani authority. At roughly 5,000 years old, these are just about some of the most well-constructed man-made structures in the world despite their prominent and exposed positions.
A moment of silence.
Beautiful quarry that is just at the bottom of the hill.
The magic of this place is not just its authenticity but also the dramatic setting and picture-perfect mountain backdrop. Jebel Misht, or Comb Mountain in Arabic, is a sight. The sheer cliff face has earned the mountain the nickname the Dolomites of Arabia and one of the most coveted climbing opportunities in all of Arabia. This is not a bad choice if I pick a view for my eternal afterlife. After about 30 minutes, we raced toward the Wadi Dhum, a 30-minute drive to the north.
After the short dabble in the Little Snake Canyon, Wadi Dhum was our second wadi experience in Oman. The wadi was practically empty during our visit despite being written up in several guidebooks and blogs. The icy cold water made swimming nearly impossible. Words of advice to visitors: Plan your visit to any wadis early in the day while sunlight still penetrates the bottom of the wadi. We cut short our wadi visit because of the frigid temperature, howling wind, and the fear of impending nightfall.
View from the westernmost beehive tomb.
On our drive back to Jabreen from Wadi Rhum, I can't help thinking of the serenity and solitude of the beehive tombs. At the very last minute, I made one last quick stop at Al-Ayn around sunset. Some described this as the "golden“ as the sun blanked the area with a gentle golden hue. What caught my eye was the beautiful quarry at the base of the hills. The beautiful rock formation was reminiscent of the flowing lava, if not prettier. Oddly, this is one of the most spiritual places I have ever visited. I could envision why this beautiful and magnificent location was their gateway to the heavenly afterlife by just closing my eyes. The ghostly presence of this place is simply magical. Like elsewhere in Oman, the silence of their open landscape was tremendously cathartic.
I could not recommend this place enough for any UNESCO heritage site enthusiast. This site is authentic without being dilapidated, is remote, and yet is accessible for those who care to do some basic research beforehand. It is the best-kept secret in the Sultanate. As the Omani government is pushing toward developing the tourism industry, the future of Al-Ayn beehive tombs may be uncertain. Would it be another tourist attraction with a fenced perimeter and admission booth? I hope not.
How To Get There?
The best way to add Al-Ayn to your Oman itinerary is to combine it with your day trip to Bahla Fort or Jabreen Castle. The road from Bahala to Al-Ayn was excellent, with a modern throughway and little traffic. The drive became increasingly scenic as you approached Al-Ayn. The best wayfinding uses the following GPS coordinates: 23.216007, 56.961963. The beehive tombs themselves are accessible via a 3-minute 4WD drive off the main road via a track of gravel path through a residential area and dry river bed. Alternatively, it would be a 12-minute walk from the main road and is not difficult to navigate since you should be able to see the tombs along the ridge from afar.
There was no fencing or any signpost, let alone with a typically obligated UNESCO plaque. For first-time visitors to Oman, you can't help wondering whether you are trespassing. Of course, please respect the local community and the preservation of the archaeological site. As elsewhere in Oman, public drinking is strictly prohibited. Having a beer here may be tempting, but don't do it.
