Mestia

Whenever you read about other travelers' Georgian travel experiences, the mountainous region of Svaneti always comes up in conversations. Bordering Russia to the north, Svaneti occupies the high region of the Caucasus Mountain range. From the beginning, we set our eyes on visiting this remote region despite the logistics of getting there. Looking at our travel itinerary, it was amazing how long the journey in and out of Svaneti was. Although Georgia is barely larger than the U.S. state of West Virginia, getting from point A to point B is rarely a straight line. Thankfully, the whole region of Svaneti is so scenically beautiful and breathtaking.

Svaneti has long enjoyed a reputation as the last frontier of Georgia. Due to their remoteness, the Svnas are often considered a distinct ethnic group with their own dialect, history, and culture. To the urban elite of Georgia, the people of Svaneti are still regarded as rugged, independent, and fearless. Until its incorporation into the Russian Empire, various villages in Svaneti enjoyed de facto autonomy, where locals were bound to defend themselves from foes, local or foreign. Today, Svaneti's proud and troubled past is cemented in hundreds of characteristic defense tower houses that once offered critical refuge to countless troubles of the past.

Svans' fierce reputation became all the more infamous following the dissolution of the Soviet Union. Some might argue that Svaneti, or the whole of Georgia, effectively became a lawless no man's land. Travelers, foreign or Georgian, were the frequent target of robbery and kidnapping. Thankfully, those days had long passed. Now, people were in danger because of the amount of chacha (homemade liquor) other drivers may have consumed the night before.

Our journey to Svaneti began in Kutaisi, Georgia’s second city. It was a solid five-hour drive to our first stop in the Svan region. I did extensive research about this drive; the reputation of Georgia's roads certainly gave us trepidation. But much to our delight and surprise, the road to Mestia is in decent shape and well-traveled. As this is the only access route to the outside world, the construction crew seemed to be racing against nature to maintain this vital road link. Despite the heavy rainfall, the climb was a thrill as the snow-capped peaks appeared before us.

Our first stop in Svaneti is Mestia, the administrative center of Upper Svaneti (or Zemo). Like most Svan towns, Mestia is a collection of several villages along the valley floor. However, the town's center is easily recognizable with a funky police station and a lovely European-style central square. Mestia is a natural home base for any first-time visitors to the region. Short of a large 24-hour supermarket, it has all the amenities that you would need. The town's center has a dozen tourist-friendly restaurants and some with nightly performances of Svan music and dances. Also around the square are several banks, ATMs, small shops, and marushka stops to Zugdidi, Ushguili, and other less-traveled destinations. Mestia is also home to the world's largest collections of unique Svan defense towers.

We arrived at Mestia around 7:30 pm, just as the sunset. But with heavy downpours and frigid temperatures, I was seriously concerned whether I had made a mistake by including Svaneti in our short trip to Georgia. But as we sat at the outdoor table of Cafe Laila for dinner, we finally got to relax and take in the vista behind the clouds. It suddenly dawned on us just how tranquil and surreal the surrounding landscape was. There was an immediate calm as the cloud lifted as the night descended. We knew then that what lay ahead of us in the night for a few days would be magical.

According to many, Mestia has come a long way since the Rose Revolution. The government of Mikheil Saakashvili sought to develop Mestia as the premier ski resort town in all of the Caucasus region, the "Switzerland of the Caucasus," as they would call it. Aside from better roads and a new airport, the town was injected with Swiss chalet-style buildings and a well-organized ethnographic museum. Honestly, they may have succeeded in parts, but the development of Mestia is a complicated matter.

For now, it has reversed the population decline of this remote region. But it also came at a great cost for local identities. Outsiders like ourselves often could not fully understand the cultural insensitivity imposed on the Svans. A case in point was the statue of Queen Tamar in central Mestia. We saw a lovely modernist sculpture of the female monarch of Georgia, but the locals saw an artwork imposed by a flamboyant artist under the direction of Tbilisi.

Doesn’t this fell like a Swiss mountain village?

Fortunately, as travelers, we get to enjoy the fruit of tourism. The surge in visitors is accompanied by the proliferation of private homestays and B&Bs throughout the regions. While in Mestia, we stayed at Guesthouse Mountain View, only a 5-minute stroll from the town square. The guesthouse hits just the right balance of hospitality and casual atmosphere. Looking at all the reviews of guesthouses around the area, it is quite clear that the traditions of Georgian hospitality are still alive and strong. Whether in the tourist trade or not, people were genuinely friendly and excited to have us as guests.

We cannot recommend Cafe Panorama enough for anyone who wants to try out Sventia's regional cuisine and warm hospitality. Having a disappointing meal at other more touristy restaurants near the central square, this charming little cafe, only a short four-minute walk away, injects the casual and contemporary atmosphere sorely lacking in Svanetia. The owner and staff were among the warmest people we encountered on this journey.

While we thoroughly enjoyed Georgian food, the cooking at Cafe Panorama elevated it above many reputable establishments we sampled in Tbilisi. Among all the delicious dishes we sampled, we want to mention kubdari. This meat-filled bread, a Svan specialty, combines the best of our favorite Georgian dishes: khinkali (boiled dumpling) and khachapuri (cheese bread). The flavor and texture of this meat-filled bread were just out of this world. If you were to visit Svenatia, kubdari must be part of your dinner every night.

The controversial Queen Tamar statue in Mestia.

Around Mestia are two convenient half-day excursions popular with first-time visitors: one is leisurely, and the other requires minimal physical fitness. For a lazy afternoon, riding the ski lift to the top of the mountain ridge for the best view around Mestia is best. There are two segments to ski lifts: the Hatsvali (the lower) and the Zuruld (the upper). The same ski resort company operates both, and it is definitely among the highlights of any traveler. Something about the eerily silence of a moving ski lift makes this an ultimate Zen experience.

Riding up the ski lift at Hatsvali Ski Resort.

On a clear day, the top affords you a 300-degree panoramic view of snow-capped mountains and fabulous views down to Mestia and the airport. Atop the ski lift is a reasonable/unremarkable restaurant/cafe that offers sandwiches, coffee, and all other typical Georgian beverages. We really lucked out with the beautiful weather; I could not think of a better place to enjoy a sunny afternoon in Mestia. Unfortunately, Brian's intense acrophobia did take away just a little bit of serenity from the ski lift experiences. We even contemplated hiking down the ski slope, even though it might take us several hours.

View of the Queen Tamar Airport, which provides infrequent air link to Tbilisi and Kutaisi.

Just a quick note of caution: the ski lift in Mestia only operates under optimal weather conditions. But in all fairness, this not only ensures your own safety but also foretells you that the views on top may not warrant your time and efforts. As of 2018, Google still hasn't located the lower station of the Hatsvali lift (the newer of the two). It took us some time to finally spot it from the distance.

Chalaadi Glacier Trek

If taking the ski lift is too tame of an afternoon outing, the second popular side trip from Mestia is the hike to Chalaadi Glacier. The popularity of this short trek could largely be attributed to its proximity to central Mestia. The round-trip hike to the glacier is three hours long if you have a vehicle to reach the trailhead. Alternatively, it is an additional 3 hours on foot if trekking from central Mestia.

The direction of the trailhead was very straightforward. Following the airport access road to the end will eventually bring you to the trailhead. As we approached the trailhead, Svaneti's economic development came into full view. The Nenskra Hydropower Plant Project, a joint venture with Korea Water Resources Corporation, was championed by the Saakashvili government. It was meant to reduce Georgia's dependency on foreign (Russian) energy imports. As good of an intention as it might be from a national security perspective, it is difficult not to be concerned with the project's environmental and social impacts on this unspoiled landscape. This unease was only heightened as we drove by a field of 12 ft 12-diameter concrete viaducts.

We parked our vehicle at the end of the suspension bridge and began the steep ascent. The hike up was a pleasant surprise. The trail was well marked and maintained, and the scenery was varied and fabulous. From the dense pine forest and moss-covered stone fields to the highland tundra, you witness the dramatic change in the surroundings. The trek eventually started to follow the fast-moving Mestiachala River. At places, the torrent of water came so close to our path that we were pondering whether the surge in water level from the ongoing rain could have inundated the path any minute now. Before you knew it, we were scrambling among boulders to reach the mouth of the glacial river.

It had been 20 years since I last encountered a proper glacier. It took me ten minutes to recognize that the lower portion of the glacier was covered in loose rocks. Especially in drizzling and overcast weather, it could have easily been mistaken as a typical rocky slope. The immense powers of Mother Nature were truly awe-inspiring. When we were standing from the bottom of the valley floor, each glacier seemed like a tiny patch of icepack. But it was only when we were up close in person that we truly appreciated the force of nature. The explorers within us wished we could climb on the glacier itself. Of course, we were ill-prepared for our trek as usual. If it weren't for the less-than-ideal weather, the glacier would be a beautiful picnic spot.

Overall, the Chalaadi Glacier trek is one of the most rewarding treks in Georgia. Just about every moment of this trek was enjoyable and full of surprises. Be sure to wear sturdy shoes and a walking stick, as some rocky conditions could prove tricky to those with little sense of balance. To learn more about this trek, check out the awesome resource on Caucasus Trekking.

Shdughra Waterfall Trek

For me, there was only one hike that I determined to take on during our visit to Svaneti. It would be to hike to the base of the Shdughra Waterfall. Located in the interior of Dolra Valley in the Becho community, the waterfall often takes on different names: Shdughra, Becho, Mazeri, or Ushaba. What is supposed to reward any hiker at the waterfall's base is an impressive view of the river tumbling down into the snow-capped valley in front of your eyes. The pictures and video footage from the waterfall captivated me, and I was excited to share them with Brian.

The road to Shdughra Falls was a little tricker than I first envisioned. Becho is a 40-minute drive from central Mestia and involves bumpy unpaved roads to reach the trailhead. The recommended route took us to the Grand Hotel Ushaba, where an overly detailed signpost outside directed us to the waterfall. The trek was lovely, with green pasture and beautiful wildflowers around us. We were greeted with a herd of cattle and occasionally small streams that forced us to make some slight detours. About 20 minutes in, we came across the abandoned Church of Saint Michael. As humble as it was, it was spectacular in its otherworldly setting.

The abandoned Church of Saint Michael's in a splendid setting.

As we were excited about this epic trek, all our hopes were dashed. After another 10-minute walk from the church, we were stopped dead in the track by a torrent of streams at least 12 feet across. Judging from the veracity and drop, we could only conclude that the bridge had been washed away from the flash flood. Realizing that your hope and dream have been dashed was a sinking feeling. We looked at each other and said, "Is this it....?"

We spent the next 10 minutes surveying the landscape like self-proclaimed frontiersmen and quickly called it a quit. Did I lead us down the wrong path, or were we just unlucky? Serendipitously, we found a detailed trail map lying by the trail on our way back. It turns out this was truly our unlucky day. So here's a word of advice: check ahead with the locals before embarking on this trek! Maybe you would be rewarded with that million-dollar view at the end.

Don't Take The Flight There!

Upper Svaneti is served by a rather new Queen Tamar Airport just on the outskirts of Mestia. The airport is served solely by Vanilla Air, with daily links to Kutaisi and Natakhtari (Tbilisi). Flying into Mestia may seem like a sure bet... until you read that roughly half of all flights in and out of there are canceled due to poor visibility. Because Queen Tamar Airport has no radar guidance system, all pilots need to rely on the visual approach only. Situated in a narrow valley, it is not necessarily the easiest airport for a pilot. What made flying into Mestia particularly risky was that passengers often received their cancellation notice at the gate and then scrambled to arrange a 9-hour taxi ride to Mestia.

Instead, the most often recommended way to reach Mestia from Tbilisi was a night train to Zugdidi and hopping on a marushka for the four-hour journey. It may not be as pleasant as a 30-minute flight, but it beats getting stuck at a tiny airport on the outskirts of Tbilisi.

Be Patient With The Weather!

Before going to Georgia, I was compulsively checking Mestia's weather report to see just how likely we might be blessed with a sunny day. To my great dismay, two full weeks of thunderstorms were in the forecast. But with all lodging booked, we decided to postpone our itinerary. Needless to say, we arrived in Mestia under the persistent thunderstorm, and we couldn't help but wonder how we would spend three days here in Mestia. Fortunately, we started to figure out the weather pattern pretty quickly. The cloud typically lifts about half an hour after sunset, and the sky remains clear until late morning. Of course, you might luck with a beautiful sunny day occasionally, and you should count it as a blessing.

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Mestia - The Georgian Heaven On Earth

Mestia

Chalaadi Glacier Trek

Shdughra Waterfall Trek

Don't Take The Flight There!

Be Patient With The Weather!

Bronze Age Necropolis of Al-Ayn

Georgia Itinerary - Summer 2018