Georgia Itinerary - Summer 2018 — Tuljak! Travel Blog

When I told my colleagues about my upcoming trip to Georgia, they were genuinely surprised that I would even contemplate visiting this place. "Are you flying into Atlanta?" or "What will you do there?" they asked. Of course, they seemed reassured when I told them it was actually to the Republic of Georgia in the Caucuses. It was just more in keeping with the kind of destinations that I gravitated toward. It has been almost seven years since my previous visit to Georgia. Despite being only a brief visit to the capital, Tbilisi the last time, the beauty and intrigue of this place are unforgettable. I have always heard that the best of Georgia are outside the confines of Tbilisi, and one needs to venture out to the mountainous regions of the Caucuses to really grasp the characters and beauty of this ancient culture.

As was often the case, part of the decision to pick the destination for us was the amazing flight deals out of New York that I found. At $580 RT, it was roughly a $450 discount compared to the typical fare for Tbilisi. Due to its geography, Georgia enjoys distinctive seasons, and one should select the best time to visit depending on the experiences you are looking for. We were there in mid-June. Tbilisi was warm enough without being oppressively humid, and various mountain/trekking routes were already open for visitors. Enjoying the green high meadow and snow-capped peaks was a wonderful time.

In planning for this itinerary, I was struck by just how, unfortunately, Tbilisi is as both an entry and exit point. All roads seemed to lead to Tbilisi, and we found ourselves doing quite a bit of backtracking when visiting several regions of Georgia. With only 11 days on our calendar, we had to be selective and think of the kind of Georgian experience we wanted. After much debate, I have decided to attempt the mountainous regions of Mestia and Kazbegi. Along the way, we visit other tourist hotspots such as Gori, Mtskheta, and Kutaisi. Unfortunately, we had to forgo the rustic region of Tusheti, the wine area of Kakheti, and the Black Sea resort town of Batumi. We also had to skip out on many famous sights, such as Borjomi, Vardzia, Akhaltsikhe, and the David Gareji Monastery.

Gergeti Trinity Church in Stepantsminda. — Gergeti Trinity Church in Stepantsminda.

We recommend a minimum of three weeks to truly experience Georgia fully at a reasonable leisure pace. If utilizing public transportation, a full month may even be necessary. Fortunately, we didn't stretch our itinerary further to include Armenia. In many ways, Georgia is a dream for backpackers; the affordability and laid-back attitude toward foreigners make traveling a breeze. For any serious hikers, Georgia is a paradise not to be missed. The trekking infrastructure is well-developed, with numerous online resources. The folks behind Caucasus Trekking are a lifesaver. One could not appreciate the beauty of Georgia and its culture without venturing into the mountains. The efforts are well worth it.

Day 1 - New York - Brussel - Tbilisi

We are lucky to arrive at Tbilisi on a late afternoon flight, somewhat of an unusual time slot for a Tbilisi arrival flight. Dima, the driver for our Airbnb host, picked us up and checked us into our little apartment at the foothill of the Narikala Fortress. It was a strenuous 5-minute hike but the view was glorious. The dinner afterward at Abajuri was delicious and a great start to our culinary adventure. Among the most notable dishes were the spicy Abkhazia-style chicken and the skewered khachapuri. The lovely courtyard restaurant in Old Tbilisi felt like a world away from the stressful life back in New York.

Day 2 - Tbilisi

After an exhausting night, we had a late start of the day and took a short stroll around Old Tbilisi, particularly Abanotubani, the "bath district"” We then made our way to the Public Service Hall, one of the most absurd buildings in Georgia. We had an interesting breakfast at their cafe. The heat was so exhausting that we took refuge in the National Museum of Georgia on Rustaveli Avenue. Although not the best-curated national museum, its treasury collection is beautifully presented. Many of the iconic items have since become national icons. On the top floor is a separate "Museum of Soviet Occupations"” addressing Georgia's relationship to the native son, Joseph Stalin.

Narikala Fortress looming above the Old Tbilisi.

Following a very late lunch at the atmospheric Old City Wall Restaurant. True to its name, it was embedded in the medieval fortification of Tbilisi and a delightful refuge on a hot summer day. The Georgian meal could often be heavy, and we just decided to head across the river to the Davit Aghmashenebeli Avenue, the commercial thoroughfare on the left bank of the Mtkvari River. Newly renovated, the area is an uncomfortably "new" and somewhat disappointing experience.

Feeling the heat, we boarded a local bus to head to Fabrika, the hipster hotel/retail hybrid place widely written about in guidebooks and travel blogs. It has several draft beer pubs, coffee shops, and boutique studios. A 15-minute ride away is the Cathedral of Holy Trinity, the brand-new national shrine of Georgia. Our dinner reservation was at the famous Cafe Littera at the old Writers' House. It is arguably the most elegant dining establishment. Unfortunately, the service left a lot to be desired.

Day 3 - Tbilisi

I woke up early to start the laundry because Brian was under the weather in the morning. When we were ready to start our day, we decided to start it at Pasanauri. We were happy to address our craving for the khinkali, the oversized dumpling unique to Georgia. It was both satisfying and affordable. Afterward, we walked past a Dunkin Donuts and couldn't resist popping in for a cup of American-style coffee before heading out to the famous flea market on Dry Bridge. The scale of the market seemed a lot bigger than I remembered. As much as I wanted to snap a Georgian or Soviet souvenir, the endless selections became a little numbing after a while.

Unexpectedly interesting Mtatsminda amusement park.

To fulfill Brian's dream of riding the Tbilisi funicular, we walked toward the lower station at the base of the hill. Up the hill on a 7-minute funicular ride is Mtatsminda Park, a Soviet-era amusement park that is admission-free and nostalgic. The park offers a panoramic view of central Tbilisi and a well-reviewed restaurant that takes full advantage of the splendid vantage point. After my first roller coaster ride in 15 years, we returned to Old Tbilisi to fulfill Brian's final wish list, the aerial tramway from the Rike Park up to the Narikala Fortress, to have a close encounter with the statue Mother Georgia. Our final dinner in Tbilisi was at Shavi Lomi, a charming restaurant set in a modest mansion away from the touristic part of Tbilisi.

Day 4 - Tbilisi - Gori - Chiatura - Katskhi - Kutaisi

Picking up a rental car in a foreign country is always nerve-racking. Luckily, the folks at GSS Car Rental were very chill and helpful. Our Toyota Pathfinder certainly showed its age, but we were not getting a brand-new car in fear of cosmetic damage from my bad driving. We quickly stopped at Saint Nino Monument and the now abandoned Archaeology Museum on our way out of town. With another stop at the Carrefour, we were all prepared for our epic Georgian road trip. Our first stop was the cave city of Uplistsikhe before arriving at Gori, the hometown of Ioseb Besarionis dze Jughashvili, better known as Joseph Stalin.

Arriving in Gori, we felt as if we were entering into a parallel universe where the Stalin name is still politically correct. Making a turn on Stalin Boulevard was certainly a surreal experience. Driving past Stalin Square, there was the Stalin State Museum at the end of the boulevard. The museum itself was quite "interesting" and disturbing. That itself may warrant a whole post on its own.

After a quick bite of shoti bread from the roadside bakery behind the museum, we continued our drive to the industrial town of Chiatura. Famous for its Stalinist-era cable car network, this town held the world's largest magnesium deposit and has declined since the fall of the USSR. Our final stop of the day was the oddity that is Katskhi Column, which is only 20 minutes away on our way to Kutaisi, the second city of Georgia. After three nights of Airbnb, we found refuge in the top-notch Best Western Kutaisi and dinner at Bar-Restaurant Palaty.

Day 5 - Kutaisi - Mestia

In the vicinity of Kutaisi were two UNESCO World Heritage Sites, one current and another "delisted"” Across the river from downtown Kutaisi was Bagrati Cathedral, a ruined church that was recently completely renovated back to a functioning church while running afoul of UNESCO. Another 15 minutes away was the Gelati Monastery, arguably the most splendid in the country with its glorious medieval frescos. The monastery is among the most beautiful and "sacred feeling" places I have ever visited. A short drive away was another monastery, Motsameta Monastery, was less impressive but beautifully situated over the river's bend.

Splendid mysticism inside Gelati Monastery.

Before heading out of Kutaisi, we stopped by the alien-looking Parliament of Georgia. Resembling a giant glass eyeball, the building is as bizarre as it is awe-inspiring. Not surprisingly, the parliament was not open to visitors while it was not in session. While driving out of town, I suddenly realized my wallet was missing. Half panicking, I drove back to the Parliament building, hoping for a miracle. Miraculously, an employee from Parliament returned the wallet as I drove up to the complex. In a million years, I would never have expected to recover a wallet in this corner of the world. It was truly a remarkable experience and demonstrated the honesty of the Georgian people.

The road to Mestia from Kutaisi was long. After fueling up just past the town of Zugdidi, it was a three-and-half-hour drive through the winding mountain road to Mestia. Halfway through the journey, the downpour started; it only made the mysticism of Svaneti. We finally arrived at our guesthouse at 7:30 pm. The dinner at Cafe Laila at the central Mestia was lively with the live performance of traditional music and dance. Nothing is better than enjoying local wine with a view of the snow-capped peaks.

Day 6 - Mestia

I managed to wake up early enough to do another load of laundry. It was a true pleasure to do sundry laundry out in the garden. After a quick breakfast at a hotel, we set out to do the Mazeri Waterfall trek in the community of Becho. Little did we know that our trek was cut short by a rising torrent of a stream from the proceeding days of rain. Deflated that our plan went astray, we returned to Mestia for a quick lunch at Koshki before taking on the hike to Chalaadi Glacier, a lovely 80-minute hike to the river's source.

Despite the weather being less than ideal, it was still a brilliant hike and a memory of a lifetime. For dinner, we stumbled upon Cafe Panorama just a couple of blocks off the main square. We had the most amazing meal of our entire trip. The warmth and generosity of the owner and staff were amazing. It was clear that they took pride in every detail of their restaurant. We vowed to come back again on our way back.

Day 7 - Mestia - Ushguil

The true adventure with our drive to the mountain villages of Ushguili, the highest permanent settlement in Europe (so we were told). At just over two hours from the center of Mestia, the drive itself has been widely written as notoriously rough. With that in mind, we were pleasantly surprised that roughly half of the road had been paved, and the construction was ongoing toward Ushguili. The unpaved section was rough but much more manageable with the right 4WD vehicle like ours. It was a great sense of joy and relief as we arrived at the valley floor and spotted the characteristic towers of Ushguili in the distance.

It took us ten minutes to locate our guesthouse; it was clear very quickly that we had entered a time machine where time stood still. Upon checking in to our guesthouse, we hiked to the Shkhara Glacier. The trek along the valley floor was a pleasant stroll along the valley floor. Although the path was passable with a car, it required passing through an avalanche and a few streams. Knowing there has been persistent precipitation over the last few days, we opted to trek on foot. Along the way, we were accompanied by wild dogs and horses. It was such a beautiful and cathartic experience despite the downpour as we approached the foot of Mount Shkhara. Wet and tired, we opted to have an early dinner at Cafe Koshki, where we sampled another delicious Kubdari, Svaneti meat pie.

Day 8 - Ushguili - Mestia - Zugdidi - Kutaisi

Today is finally the day with a beautiful blue sky in Svanetia. I woke up early enough to walk around the village and admire the striking colors of high meadows and snow-capped peaks. Everything just looked so vibrant and surreal. After breakfast at the guesthouse, we had to say goodbye to prepare for a long drive back to Kutaisi. As we headed out of the village, we picked up our first-ever hitchhiker, a retired French lady who was traveling Georgia for a month. Soon afterward, we kind of "involuntarily" gave a lift to a road worker... an interesting experience on its.

As in most cases, the road back always seems more manageable. The beautiful weather made the drive a breeze; in the blink of an eye, we were back in Mestia. Before leaving Svaneti, we ticked another box on the to-do list: riding the Hatsvali Ski Lift. The lift brought us to the mountain ridge's top, providing a panorama of the surrounding mountain range. I could not think of a better departing view for our visit to Mestia. We returned to Cafe Panorama for a wonderful late lunch to cap off our visit.

It gave me enough energy for the long drive back to Kutaisi via Zugdidi. By the time we got back to our favorite Best Western, it was around 8 pm. For dinner, we were delighted to find out that the most lauded khinkali house, Restaurant El Depo, is only a mere block away from the hotel. At 20 GEL for two, it is the most affordable and satisfying dinner in Georgia.

Day 9 - Kutaisi - Mtskheta - Stepantsminda

It is another long driving day, as we need to make our way to the Kabegi region in a solid six-hour drive. I took a quick stroll around downtown Kutaisi to discover many architectural gems, most notably the wonderful Colchis Fountain and Glory Memorial. On our way to Kazbegi, we stopped by the fantastically weird rest stop and the ancient capital of Mtskheta. Located only half an hour from central Tbilisi, Mtskheta is perhaps the most visited tourist sight outside the capital. The town's crown jewel is the Svetitskhoveli Cathedral, arguably the most sacred place in Georgia. Not only are all the Georgian monarchs crowned there, but it also holds the alleged Christ's robe. The beauty and significance of the interior form great contrast with that of the new cathedral in Tbilisi.

After a wonderful lunch at Salobie, we headed north on the famous Georgian Military Highway. Along the way, we passed by the Three Hundred Aragvians Memorial, a Soviet Art Deco monument dedicated to that heroic martyrdom of the late 18th century. For the next two hours, we continued to gain elevation and eventually reached the area of Gudauri. During this time, the temperature dropped to approximately 45 degrees Fahrenheit. Away from the scorching heat of Tbilisi, I was delighted with the change of scenery. Surrounded by glaciers and high meadows, we inched toward our final destination, Stepantsminda.

We are excited to check into Rooms Hotel Kazbegi, a destination on its own right. Converted from a Soviet-era solarium, it offers a beautiful panoramic view of Mount Kazbegi and the Gelati Trinity Church. The whole place is tastefully done and a true place to contemplate the peace and tranquility of Kazbegi. The only Rooms Hotel restaurant offered some beautifully presented Georgian classics. After more than a week in Georgia, the prices were a little of a shock but still cheaper than our typical restaurant meal back home.

Day 10 - Stepantsminda

By then, I have worked out the weather patterns of the mountainous regions of Georgia. The clouds often lifted right after sunset, and we were often greeted with blue skies until mid-morning before thunder clouds started rolling in. Knowing just how short-lived blue sky may be, I dug myself out of bed to start my hike to the Gelati Trinity Church, the star attraction that makes Kazbegi the tourist destination it is. The hike was a 45-minute trek up a steep path, but the view along the way was amazing. Dare I say it is even prettier than the postcard? Although the church is accessible by a 30-minute car ride along a winding jeep road, the journey on foot made this place even more rewarding.

Spectacular view of the town Stepantsminda from the Gelati Trinity Church.

After meeting Brian at the Rooms Hotel, we wanted to visit the Zakagori Fortress in the Abano Valley. Little did we know just how bad the roads were. Merely 10 minutes off the highway, we decided it was simply too exhausting. We returned to Stepantsminda for lunch at Restaurant Cozy Corner, which was not very good. Amazingly, I decided to hike up to the monastery for the second time to share the experience with Brian. The second time in five hours didn't make it any easier. I later climbed approximately 240 floors on that day alone. It also made me feel okay with taking it easy for the rest of the day. Swimming in the indoor swimming pool, with a full view of Mount Kazbegi, was a great way to wrap up our time in Georgia.

Day 11 - Stepantsminda - Tbilisi

This was our last day in Georgia, and it was a busy one. After a scrumptious breakfast at the Rooms Hotel, we reluctantly said goodbye to this oasis. We had made our way back toward Tbilisi. We stopped at the scenic Georgian-Russian Friendship Monument and Ananuri Fortress Complex before grabbing our last lunch at Salobie again. Before returning the rental car, one more stop was the Chronicle of Georgia by the Tbilisi Sea. Another outlandish creation by the Georgian-Russian sculptor Zurab Tsereteli, this imposing monument was off the tourist trail, and chances that you would have the whole place all on your own. Its sheer scale and monumentality will be enough to overwhelm you. This must be the ultimate destination for those astute with Georgian history and Christianity.

Chronicle of Georgia in northern Tbilisi.

Our very last afternoon in Tbilisi felt exhausting; we rushed from place to place to do our last-minute gift shopping and postcard writing. This was the time that we wished we had been better at planning ahead. We ended up doing most of our shopping at the Carrefour.... Nice, you know! Given our early flight home the next morning, we did not feel like going to a fancy dinner. We ended at Amber Bar, a lovely wine bar at the end of David Agmashenebeli Street. There is no better way to end our day than with a bottle of amber wine.

Day 12 - Tbilisi - Amsterdam - New York

Our night at the Grove Design Hotel was short of an unpleasant experience. From midnight to around 2 am, we were woken up by this pumping dance music. After complaining about the noise to the front desk, they informed us that it was indeed from the adjacent room. But to our astonishment, their remedy was to ask us to change rooms instead of asking their other guests to turn down their loud music... at 2 am! I waited another 10 minutes before going to the front desk in person and physically "instructed" them to come, asking our neighbors to turn their music down (and not off?). In all my years of travel, this may be the worst hospitality I have ever encountered.

With the morning call at four o'clock, we barely got an hour's sleep before setting out for the airport. We can't help being angry with the staff at the hotel, but I am glad this happened on the last night of the trip. Thankfully, our travel home, including a short detour to Amsterdam, was smooth and pleasurable. I would say it has been another successful trip.

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Georgia Itinerary - Summer 2018