Taiwan Itinerary - Spring 2023 — Tuljak! Travel Blog

Partly due to Taiwan’s conscription laws and the sheer distances, it has been over twelve years since my last visit home. It has also been about five years since I last saw my family, so a visit was long overdue. But on a more sinister level, I was genuinely concerned about the safety and future of Taiwan. With the ongoing war in Ukraine still fresh on my mind, I can’t shake this uneasy feeling about my homeland. I can’t help thinking this may be my last chance to visit Taiwan before a coming Chinese invasion. I wanted to show Brian the “free Taiwan” I knew and loved before it was too late.

With two weeks available, I should have enough time to explore the island fully. But because the purpose of this trip was to visit families, we traveled at a decidedly slower pace than usual. I can’t say this is necessarily an itinerary other travelers would want to replicate. On the other hand, it is a rare opportunity for us to practice slow travel. This trip focused on the population centers along the island’s west coast. We can’t wait to return to explore Taiwan’s natural scenery and outlying islands next year.

Day 1 - New York - Taoyuan - Taipei

We landed at Taoyuan Airport early and were greeted with an hour-long wait for passport control. Even with my American passport, I was a little nervous about going through Taiwan’s immigration control. Would I be detained for conscription-related issues? Thankfully, everything went off without a hitch, and I was finally on Taiwanese soil! After a quick shower at the airport, we were on the way to Taipei via the airport MRT. One thing that immediately hit me was how green and tropical Taiwan is. I was just thankful the springtime temperature of Taiwan is still tolerable.

A traditional medicine shop in Dadaocheng.

For the next five days, we are calling Park View Taipei home. This business hotel may not be flashy, but it is the kind of detail-oriented hotel we love. Unfortunately, early hotel check-in was not a thing in Taiwan. So we had a couple of hours to kill before the 3 pm check-in. Our first stop in the city was Dadaocheng (大稻埕), the oldest quarter of Old Taipei. Long overlooked during Taipei’s rapid urbanization decades, Dadaocheng retained its architectural heritage. The government recognized the potential of this area, and it has since developed into Taipei’s premier walking street for locals and tourists alike.

With public grants and professional guidance, many buildings of Dadaocheng have been meticulously restored to their former glories. True to the area’s heritage, the neighborhood still retains many traditional industries, such as tea trading, Chinese medicine, and many traditional crafts. The area quickly became the most visited corner of Taipei among foreign visitors. After our quick lunch at the venerable Du Xiao Yue (度小月), we ran into my sister Christine and my cousin Elsa, who also just arrived from the United States this morning. We all planned to meet for dinner in the evening, so it was serendipitous to see everyone before then.

With rain rolling in, we hurried back to the hotel to finalize our check-in. It felt great to finally get into our room and freshen up after our long journey. Because Elsa was traveling with her two daughters, our dinner reservation was in the early evening. Yuan Guo Private Kitchen is a wonderful introduction to Taiwanese cuisine. It is arguably the most beautiful Chinese restaurant I have ever been to. According to Christine, this restaurant is a venture of a famous Taiwanese celebrity.

Day 2 - Taipei

Much to my consternation, the weather has not improved overnight. Thankfully, a leisurely breakfast at the hotel was a perfect start to a dreary day. Our first stop of the day is Wanhua (萬華), another older district of Taipei. Anchoring the neighborhood is the Monga Lungshan Temple (艋舺龍山寺). Dedicated to the goddess Guanyin, Lungshan is a place of traditional folk religion worship with a mixture of Buddhism. The lively atmosphere and ornate architecture made it the most visited temple among foreign visitors. A visit provides a good introduction to Taiwan’s religious culture and traditions. I tried my best to recall all the customs and temple rituals I learned as a kid.

Just a few blocks away from the temple is the Bopiliao Historical Block (剝皮寮歷史街區). This special historic district is the best encapsulation of early 20th-century Taipei. In a city that is swallowed by unimpeded modernism and the proliferation of commercial billboards, Bopoliao’s serenity and historic ambiance is quite a refreshing break. Much of the district is now devoted to temporary exhibition and performance space. One particularly interesting was a memorial dedicated to the outbreak of COVID-19. In 2012, Wanhua was the original center of the first outbreak in Taiwan. Bopoliao became ground zero in the national response to the pandemic. While we in the United States were eager to forget about everything COVID, the Taiwanese established a memorial to commemorate the heroic response of medical personnel during that difficult period.

From Wanhua, it was an easy bike ride to Ximending (西門町), the "Shibuya of Taipei”. Ximending is the domain of Taipei’s youth and the epic center of harizu (Japanese culture admirer). The neighborhood has plenty of eateries, comic book stores, and clothing shops. Despite also being one of the older neighborhoods, very few traces of the history are visible today. The one exception was the Red House Theater (紅樓劇場). Interestingly, today's lovely Japanese-era building is now the epicenter of Taipei’s bustling gay scenes. There are plenty of gay bars and rainbow flags all around; it is a real testament to Taiwan’s liberal social attitude.

Regarding lunch, I floated the idea of getting soup dumplings at Din Tai Fung (鼎泰豐). Arguably the most well-known restaurant in Taiwan, Din Tai Fung is a place of pilgrimage for many foreign tourists. At their flagship location at Xinsheng, the wait for a table is long. In our case, the estimated wait time was 110 minutes. Undaunted, we put in our number and explored the nearby Yongkang Street (永康街). Ironically, this stretch of Taipei is sometimes regarded as the foodie epicenter. Exploring this area only makes us hungrier.

After our feast, we rode YouBike to the National Chiang Kai-shek Memorial Hall (國立中正紀念堂). This impressive building complex is dedicated to Chiang Kai-shek, the former President of the Republic of China. Designed in a distinct style native to northern China, the architecture emulated the Forbidden City in Beijing. The design speaks to the Nationalists’ emphasis on Chinese orthodoxy and their insistence on their status as the legitimate government of China. The monument may be impressive, but let’s not overlook the troubled legacy of Chiang, who ruled Taiwan with an iron fist and was keen to squash the nascent Taiwanese identity.

Our final stop of the day was also the one I have been looking forward to the most. The Taipei Performing Arts Center (TPAC) is the newest addition to Taiwan’s cultural landscape. Designed by Dutch architect Rem Koolhaas, the theater is unique in its outward appearance and design ethos. The building contains three separate theaters, all sharing a common backstage. Unfortunately, our schedule did not align with their twice-weekly guided tour. Well, now I have another good reason to come back to Taipei!

Right adjacent to TPAC is Shilin Night Market (士林夜市), the largest in the country. Many locals often emphasize that it may be the largest but not the best. I can’t say I am a great judge of a good night market. All I knew was that it was too busy for Brian’s liking. We plotted our plan before the market went into full swing. Conveniently, there is a direct bus back to our hotel. After a quick rest, we met with Christine at District 33 Stir Fry & Seafood. “Stir fry restaurants” are unique in Taiwan’s culinary landscape. The name of the game is speed and affordability. It is just my kind of dining experience.

Day 3 - Taipei

The weather this morning was glorious. This would be the right time to visit some of Taiwan’s most important political landmarks. Our first stop was the Presidential Office Building (總統府). Designed in the Japanese eclectic style, the building has been the political nerve center of Taiwan since its construction. I purposefully arrived in time for the guided tour. Much to our surprise, we were turned away from the soldiers. I suddenly realized this was a public holiday. Instead, we went for a bike ride around the governmental quarters.

Before long, we arrived at 228 Peace Memorial Park (二二八和平紀念公園). February 28th is an essential public holiday in Taiwan, commemorating an anti-government uprising against the dictatorship of President Chiang Kai-shek. It was a great spot to share Taiwan’s early 20th-century history with Brian. The National Taiwan Museum is within the park, which provides a perfect snapshot of Taiwan's history. My personal favorite item on display was the flag of the short-lived Republic of Formosa, the first republic of the Chinese-speaking world.

For lunch, we walked a few blocks to Ximending. After browsing through the options, I opted for an affordable lunch at Mercuries Beef Noodle Restaurant (三商巧福). This venerated restaurant chain specializes in beef noodle soup and was a childhood favorite of mine. The noodle soup may not be the best, but the nostalgia and fast service made up for it. We walked a block down to one of Ximending’s shaved ice stores to complement the meal. Ice Una (冰封仙果) is the largest chain of its kind and is known for its adorable and outlandish presentation. All the shaved ice was just too cute to consume.

From Ximending, it was a short walk to Taipei North Gate (臺北府城北門), which is Taipei’s best-preserved historic city gate. The Hokkien-style structure has been recently restored and is a centerpiece of the West District Gateway Project. Included as part of the revitalization project, include the restoration of historic landmarks such as the Old Post Office and the National Taiwan Railway Museum. This is one side of historic Taipei previously blighted by highway overpass from the 1960s. It is heartening to see how Taiwan began to take historic preservation seriously.

In the afternoon, we paid a visit to the Huashan 1914 Creative Park (華山1914文化創意產業園區). This former brewery factory is now Taipei’s most vibrant hub for urban creative industries. Since it was a public holiday in Taiwan, the whole campus was mobbed with visitors and street performers. It is a great place to browse works by Taipei’s artisans and shop for souvenirs. We purchased a beautiful wall hanging from Craftopia Taipei; it is among our favorite souvenirs we bought.

The tuned mass damper (TMD) atop Taipei 101.

We headed to Taipei 101, the city’s most well-known landmark, to round up our day. Even though it is no longer the tallest building in the world, its distinctive post-modern design made it an instant favorite among travelers and locals. Since we were in Taipei as tourists, visiting the observatory seemed obligatory. A classic experience would be enjoying the sunset from the top of the building. But it became apparent that everyone else had the same idea. The queue for tickets and elevators is long. The thick haze had set in when we arrived at the observatory, and it was hardly the most spectacular experience. That said, I was glad to visit this unlikely landmark, specifically its tuned mass damper (TMD), a cultural icon in its own right.

After another exhausting day of sightseeing, we met up with Christine again for dinner. We were not ready to venture far from the hotel, so we ended up at a nearby unagi restaurant. Even this no-name restaurant is better than many Japanese restaurants we have been to in New York.

Day 4 - Taipei

Today was the Qingming Festival, a major public holiday in Taiwan. With many city residents out of town, the city was eerily quiet. I woke up early to get a bike ride around the neighborhood. I took this opportunity to visit Taipei Roofs (富富話合), a small apartment complex by Japanese architect Akihisa Hirata. Composed of a series of delicate terraces, this is one of the many contemporary buildings I have put on my to-visit list. Because this was our last full day in Taipei, I was eager to tackle Elephant Mountain (象山), the city’s most famous hike.

Situated on the southern edge of the Taipei Basin, the Elephant Mountain offers a postcard-perfect view of Xinyi Busines District and Taipei 101. It was a grueling twenty-minute hike up an endless string of steps. The staircase may be steep, but it was packed with hikers of all ages. We felt immensely grateful for the great weather and for getting that “perfect” picture of Taipei. The trail brought us to different observation platforms and even higher hills to the south. I only wished we had more time to wander.

The trail led us very close to Taipei 101. It was just too tempting to get lunch at their awesome food court. After browsing through the selection, we settled on personal hotpots from A-Kuan Hotpot Master (阿官火鍋專家). Brian’s first hotpot did not go well. He got a little flustered with two different types of broth and all the different ingredients. But in the end, he did confess that he would like to try it again. Right across the street from Taipei 101 is Four Four South Village (四四南村). This humble settlement was the purposely built housing development for veterans who migrated from China with the Nationalist government. It is now an outdoor museum and a cultural creative park.

With Brian back at the for a power nap, I took the opportunity to do another whirlwind tour of Wanhua District and Xingmendin. Eventually, we met up at Songshan Cultural and Creative Park (松山文創園區) on the east side of the city. This creative park occupies the former campus of Taiwan’s largest tobacco factory. It has now been transformed into a complex housing a design museum, galleries, and numerous design boutiques. The campus is further complemented by the nearby Eslite Spectrum (誠品生活松菸店), a celebrated Taiwanese design emporium and bookstore.

After a few days of dinner feasts, we were ready for more casual fares. It just happens that we were relatively close to Taipei’s most famous night market: Raohe Night Market (饒河街觀光夜市). Compared to Shilin Night Market, Raohe is comparatively small in size. It is essentially composed of one single street and is unusually crowded. It didn’t take long for Brian’s agoraphobia was definitely on full display. We were ready to call it a day after sampling their famous tandoori pepper buns (胡椒餅).

Day 5 - Taipei - Hsinchu

I was ready to say goodbye to Taipei after four nights. It was finally time to visit my hometown, Hsinchu, and see my parents. It was the purpose of this whole trip, after all. Before our train in the early afternoon, we returned to Dadaocheng for some souvenir shopping. I am particularly fond of a few pottery pieces from ArtYard (民藝埕). Their Xiaolongbao saucer sets by Hakka Blue are particularly perfect for gifting. Right before our train, we had enough time to grab a feast at Veggtable (丰禾台式小館). This hidden-away restaurant specializes in banquet-style Taiwanese dishes. It offers a multi-course menu feast, even for a party of two like us.

Dadaocheng takes retail to another level.

Our train ride to Hsinchu took only 35 minutes on the high-speed rail (THSR). It was my first time riding the fast train in Taiwan. But despite its speed, the train dropped us at the outskirts of Hsinchu. It was another fifteen to twenty-minute drive to the old city. I can’t help wondering whether it would have been easier to take the regular rail service. We spent the rest of the day hanging out with my parents and enjoyed a good dinner at Savory Asia Delicacy.

Day 6 - Hsinchu

For our visit to Hsnchu, we stayed at Hotel Fleur Lis, only a block from my old elementary school. Staying at a hotel in my own hometown was an unreal experience. Since breakfast was not included in our stays, I got to take Brain to try local Taiwanese breakfast. After that, we visited a local government office to get some of my government documents in order. Aside from these legal errands, another goal of this trip to Taiwan for me was to learn to ride a scooter bike. I have considered learning it since our trip to Thailand four years ago. It is an essential travel skill when traveling in certain parts of the globe.

To get proper training, my parents took us to Nanliao Fishing Port (南寮漁港). There are plenty of empty parking lots for us to learn to ride. It took us a solid hour to get a good command of the bikes. Riding the scooter gave us freedom and is a quintessential experience of visits to Taiwan. With some trepidation, I rode the moped back to the city center. Having spent my childhood on the back of these vehicles, it was a weird sensation to be steering it. Now safely back in the city center, we had lunch at my favorite spot for beef noodle soup: Duan Chun Zhen Noodle House (段純貞牛肉麵). This venerable shop specializes in Sichuan-style broth that is rich and bold. Since I left home, Duan Chen Zhen has expanded internationally, including one outpost in Cupertino, California.

In the afternoon, I showed Brian around my hometown, visiting all the places I frequented as a kid and the key historical monuments. They included the historic City Hall, the East Gate, and the Baroque Train Station, the oldest in Taiwan. Of all the places we visited, my favorite is Hsinchu Chenghuang Temple (新竹都城隍廟), the temple dedicated to the city’s guarding deities. Aside from the conviviality, the temple is also home to the city’s most famous food markets, which serve up Hsinchu’s local specialties such as dried vermicelli, pork meatballs, and “crystal meatballs.” Unfortunately, we did not have the chance to sample most of these items as we already had a dinner planned with my parents.

Being a tour guide in my hometown took a little getting used to. There were too many things I wanted to share, and I was worried about boring Brian with too many little historical trivia and anecdotes. Before we knew it, it was time for dinner. We met my parents at Tou Kai Japanese Style Cuisine (東街日式料理). This is my family’s go-to place for Japanese food. While it is debatable how authentically Japanese their food is, their generous portion and freshness of ingredients place it on my list of favorite places to eat in my hometown. Our night ended with a bowl of shaved ice at Charlotte Snow Ice. It was a sweet ending.

Day 7 - Hsinchu

My first priority in Hsinchu was to “visit” my grandparents, who passed away twelve years ago. I always felt guilty about not attending their funerals at the time. Their “spirit tablets” are housed in a Buddhist shrine at the city's edge. It was comforting to pay them proper respect. The temple, Jingyeyuan (永修精舍), is a historic monument and a fine example of the Hokkien architecture. I am happy this is the resting place for my family. My father volunteers here and was eager to show off his work in their garden.

Jingyeyuan, the resting place of my paternal grandparent.

In the spirit of Buddhism, we picked a vegetarian place for lunch. My mom happened to an elegant cafe by the city’s riverside park. Jing Jia Tea House is just what we needed after a few days of heavy meals. Given the dreary weather, Brian returned to the hotel for a quick nap. I took this opportunity to visit the less touristy parts of the city. Nestled among the old neighborhood are design boutiques and artisan eateries. One popular spot is Dongmen Market (東門市場), which was the premier shopping center during the colonial era. But in the past few decades, the market declined and became a symbol of urban blight. Thankfully, a young, energetic mayor revitalized it by luring young entrepreneurs here. Today, it has become a creative hub and the most exciting dining emporium.

As the evening descended, we headed to the former Shinchiku Prefecture Library, a Japanese-era state library that was closed for most of my life. It was not until recently that the government renovated and opened it to the public. It is now home to Hsinchu’s most impressive Starbucks. Like everywhere in Asia, Starbucks here is regarded as a splurge and is presented as a luxury item. Has your local Starbucks served coffee in a ceramic mug or proper glassware? We then met with my parents for dinner at Thai Xiaohun (泰銷魂), their favorite Thai restaurant. It was one of these places they talked about often, so I was glad to try it out finally.

Day 8 - Hsinchu - Tainan

We took my parents for a little trip to the southern city of Tainan for the next few days. As a family, we did not travel much around Taiwan when I was a kid. There is still a novelty associated with domestic travel for us. Since Christine had a prior engagement, we took the high-speed rail down to Tainan. The 70-minute ride brought us through the agricultural heart of central Taiwan before dropping us at the city's outskirts. Conveniently, Mitsui Outlet Park, a Japanese mall, is right across from the station and a place to grab a quick lunch. The tonkatsu set menu at Katsusei was perfect for my parents.

Since we were already on the outskirts of the Tainan, we took the opportunity to visit the Chimei Museum (奇美博物館), the largest private museum in the country. The massive museum is the brainchild of multi-billionaire Shi Wen-long (許文龍), the founder of Chi Mei Corporation, the world’s largest maker of ABS resin. It holds Taiwan’s most extensive collection of Western arts and one of the world’s most impressive collections of Western musical instruments. But what drew me here was the museum’s eccentric architecture. The building fuses together many of the “greatest hits” of European architecture. The end result was a Frankenstein that is mind-numbingly strange and inauthentic.

A few hours later, Christine arrived in Tainan to pick us up. It was a fifteen-minute ride into the city center of Tainan. Lakeshore Hotel Tainan would be our home for the next three days. Lakeshore Hotels is a hotel chain based in Hsinchu, so we were very happy to try them out for the first time. This hotel is not only centrally located but also very comfortable. Shortly after settling in, we were ready for dinner. Luckily, Tainan is a celebrated foodie destination. Among its most famous delicacies is its clear-broth beef hot pot (溫體牛肉鍋). The nearby Hong Niu Beef Hot Pot was the perfect dinner spot after a long day.

Day 9 - Tainan

After a scrumptious buffet breakfast, we were ready to explore central Tainan. Our first stop was Tainan Judicial Museum, just across the street from the hotel. The museum is housed within the colonial-era courthouse, an edifice of the Japanese Baroque style. As dull as a “judicial museum” might sound, we found the museum to be a joy to visit. Even for those not interested in the judiciary, the museum would be a joyous and educational visit. Much to my surprise, we spent a whopping three hours here.

Being the oldest city in the country, Tainan often prides itself in having many of Taiwan’s first. The most important monument in Tainan is its Confucius Temple, formerly Taiwan's first public education institution. A visit here was full of nostalgia as I was an attendee for Confucius' Birthday back in elementary school. I was very eager to share my limited knowledge of Confucianism.

For lunch, we took an Uber to Fulou Restaurant. This Michelin-recommended establishment specializes in the traditional cooling of Tainan. Our favorites are fried shrimp rolls and honey-glazed fried yam with taro. This was my first time trying these Taiwanese classics. To round up the meal, we took another taxi to Sun Brand Ice Brick on the other side of town. As the name implies, the specialty here is the little popsicle cubes with classic Taiwanese flavors such as salty plums, taro, and peanuts. It is one of those places that made my mom happy.

After our epic lunch, my parents returned to the hotel for a well-deserved nap. I used this time to explore more of the historic center. However, much of the city is filled with modern buildings from the 1960s. Large numbers of Japanese and Qing-era buildings are scattered around the center. The most memorable building for me is Hayashi Department Store (林百貨). It is now the premier shopping destination for visitors specializing in Taiwanese omiyage and celebrating traditional design. It is easily the best place for souvenir shopping on the island.

By late afternoon, we all met up together at the hotel. Given we were about 90 minutes before sunset, we decided to head to the coast to watch the sunset. Jingzijiao Wapan Salt Fields (井仔腳瓦盤鹽田) is the oldest and the only tiled-paved salt field in the country. Once the salt monopoly ended in Taiwan, it became a popular tourist attraction. The field may not be enormous, but it is still quite a surreal landscape. The reflection from the changing colors of the sky is absolutely beautiful. I felt very grateful to be able to share it with those I love. Our day ended at Salon, an elegant Human restaurant.

Day 10 - Tainan

Among all the most exciting contemporary architecture in Tainan is Tainan Lòng Story (南埕衖事). This curious-looking building is dominated by a maze of exterior staircases precariously hanging over the street front. The building is a vision of Japanese architect Sou Fujimoto and one of the least functional designs I have ever visited. The front of the building is a tourist attraction in its own right, and the back section is a high-end pastry shop/cafe. Considering the $300 NTD admission fee, I was amazed by how they managed to be financially successful.

Right across the street from Tainan Lòng Story is the Koxinga Ancestral Shrine (鄭成功祖廟). Koxinga was a Chinese general of the Ming Dynasty who fled to Taiwan in the fight against the Machu Qing Dynasty. His undying loyalty to the Ming emperors and perseverance against the enemy made him a national hero in Taiwan and the Chinese-speaking world. Another famous monument in the city center is Fort Provintia (赤嵌樓); it is a secondary Dutch fortress of Taiwan and the administrative center of the whole island for about one hundred years.

Unfortunately, my dad pulled a muscle earlier this morning and had to go back to the hotel early. While there was still plenty to see in Tainan, we decided to hang out in the hotel room. Luckily, all our hotel rooms have an excellent view of the city skyline and the sunset. Christine and I eventually ventured out during dinner time. I aimed to get a taste of “Taiwanese-style night market steak” (台灣夜市牛排), which is our localized take on western steak. Sadly, I picked the wrong restaurant as it was more Western than Taiwanese.

Day 11 - Tainan - Taichung

Before breakfast, I made the point to get up early to visit Tainan Spring (河樂廣場). This little plaza is the work of the Dutch studio MVRDV and a masterpiece of urban intervention. Since this is our final day in Tainan, we ought to visit the newly inaugurated “Building 2” of the Tainan Art Museum (台南市美術館2館). This striking structure is designed by Japanese architect Shigeru Ban, the winner of the 2014 Pritzker Prize. The building seems to be a conglomeration of stacked boxes topped with a giant external canopy. The rooftop cafe is an excellent place to enjoy cups of coffee and savor the city’s skyline. The exhibitions featured various Taiwanese artists from different eras addressing various social topics critical to contemporary Taiwan.

The “Building 2” of the Tainan Art Museum.

After a pasta lunch at Sunshine Some Shine, my parents returned to Hsinchu early due to my dad’s health reasons. Fortunately, we were due to return to Hsinchu at the end of the trip, so we could still make more time with them. After sending them off to the high-speed rail station, we drove west toward Anping District (安平區), the oldest area of Tainan. As previously mentioned, Tainan was founded by the Dutch East India Company, and it was in Anping that they set up their base: Fort Zelandia (熱蘭遮城). Despite subsequent modification by Qing China and Japan, it remains the best testament to Taiwan’s complex history. Ironically, the most popular tourist landmark is the nearby Anping Tree House (安平樹屋), a former British trading house that a grove of banyan trees has taken over.

We bid Tainan goodbye in the late afternoon. Our next stop on the trip is the city of Taichung, which is the second-largest metropolitan area in Taiwan. Compared to other Taiwanese cities, Taichung exudes a sense of grandeur. This city feels distinctively Chinese rather than Taiwanese, from the wide boulevards to the grand mid-rise apartment blocks. For tonight, we stayed at Hotel Si, a small boutique hotel nestling within a quiet residential neighborhood. Lucky for us, Taichung’s favorite eating experience is Yakiniku, the Japanese barbeque. A dinner at Umai Yakiniku was a feast.

Day 12 - Taichung - Taipei

After a quick breakfast at Whole Family Brunch, we made our way to the National Taichung Theater (臺中國家歌劇院). After all, this particular building is the precise reason why I came to Taichung to begin with. Designed by Japanese architect Toyo Ito, the theater is as alien-like as any other structure in Taiwan. Much to my surprise, the building is very popular with the locals. Even with no performance scheduled for the day, there are art exhibitions, design boutiques, and quality restaurants inside the theater. It was surely an effective way to break down the walls of high culture.

Our lunch at the theater’s Singaporean eatery, Chope Chope, was excellent. Unfortunately, the crisp blue sky gave way to clouds in the span of an hour. Sadly, it had become just another dreary day in Taiwan when we left the theater. Our next stop in the city was the historic section of Taichung. Being the second largest city in the country, Taichung has a storied history. With it, the city center is blessed with many beautiful historic buildings and a beautiful river park.

Besides a beautiful Baroque historic train station, an unlikely attraction in the neighborhood was a confectionary shop called Miyahara (宮原眼科). The shop is housed in a former optometry clinic during the colonial era. The ornate building gradually fell into disuse after a major earthquake in 1999. It was not until 2010 that a local bakery invested heavily to restore the building to its former glory. The renovated space seems to come straight from the pages of Harry Potter. It is now Taichung’s popular place for souvenir shopping. Their ice cream shop, specializing in local flavors, is among the best we have ever tried.

Reluctantly, we had to cut our time in Taichung short. It was a two-and-a-half-hour drive to Taipei. I made a last-minute reservation at Hanns House for our last two days in Taipei. The five-story boutique property may not be famous, but it is spectacular. We splurged for a suite with a grand view of Taipei 101, the best hotel room we stayed in over the past few years. Luckily, the hotel is across the street from Breeze Center, the city’s premier shopping mall. With plenty of restaurants, we settled for Paradise Dynasty, the other self-professed soup dimpling expert. Their dumpling may not be as delicate as those from Din Tai Fung, but it is still better than any other places I have tried in the United States.

Day 13 - Taipei

We woke up late this morning to take advantage of our fabulous room. By the time we left the hotel, the sky had cleared up. We tried our luck with touring the presidential office again this morning. Luckily, the office is open this time around. After a TSA-like security check, the “tour” includes about a dozen exhibition rooms telling not just the functions of the office of the presidency but also the history of Taiwan. In particular, the sections about the democratic and student movements are particularly impactful to me.

The most memorable part of the experience was a virtual meet and greet with the incumbent President Tsai Ing-wen (蔡英文). Under the direction of volunteer staff, visitors are green-screened into the main reception hall of the palace to greet the president as if I were a foreign dignitary visiting. The end product turned out to be fantastic. It was honestly one of the best travel souvenirs in Taipei. When I texted my parents the video, my mom even thought it was real.

After “meeting” the president, we biked out to Jinhua Street (金華街), a small section of Taipei dubbed Little Kyoto. Traditional Japanese-era houses have been preserved and turned into design boutiques, cafes, and Japanese restaurants. We took this opportunity to grab lunch at JeeWoo, an Izakaya restaurant. Judging from the number of visitors in this area, it is no joke that the Taiwanese are obsessed with Japanese culture.

The main event for the day was to meet up with my uncle and his family. This was Jason’s husband Frank and their kids’ first trip to Taiwan. Because of Jason’s other family obligations, my sister was tasked to show the families around Taipei for the day. Brain and I were happy to tag along. Our first stop was the Xingtian Temple (行天宮), the city’s most important Taoist temple. It is one temple that I haven’t visited before. The Xintian Temple is far more cerebral and orthodox than the more famous Longshan Temple we visited last week. In all honesty, it was maybe too serious for two young children. But David and Elizabeth had a great time nevertheless.

After watching the kids try their first bowls of shaved ice, we headed to Chiang Kai-shek Memorial. Brian and I were glad to explore and revisit this amazing place. The kids had a great time running through the massive plaza. But I was surprised by how much Frank knew about the biography of Chiang Kai-shek. He still owned a hard drive by Madame Chiang Kai-shek, who lived in New York City from 1975 to 2003. We visited the museum dedicated to the former president, the memorial's base.

After a short break back at the hotel, we met up with everyone for dinner at Sinchao Rice Shoppe (心潮飯店). This restaurant is perfect for foreign visitors because of the pleasing decor that reminds me of the Prohibition-era Chinatown speakeasy. Their extensive wine and cocktail menu is a crowd-pleaser. Their USDA Prime ribeye steak fried rice was perfect for red-meat-eating Americans like Frank. We wrapped up our day back at our hotel room, admiring the magnificent view of Taipei 101.

Day 14 - Taipei - Hsinchu

After a quick breakfast nearby, we reluctantly checked out of our wonderful suite at Hanns House. We had a few hours to spare before my sister could pick us up. We decided to take the opportunity to pay a visit to the nearby National Dr. Sun Yat-Sen Memorial Hall (國立國父紀念館). Dr. Sun Yat-Sen was the first President of the Republic of China and the founding father of modern China. A major landmark of Taipei, the memorial hall was typically mobbed by hordes of Chinese tourists. But ever since the China-imposed pandemic restrictions were imposed in China, the place has been eerily quiet.

Just one block north of the memorial hall is Taipei Dome (臺北大巨蛋), the largest indoor arena and perhaps the most controversial construction project in Taiwan. The dome was built with unapproved alterations and became a political hot potato for several administrations. I hoped that we would be able to attend a game for our next visit. And just beyond the building is Songshan Cultural and Creative Park, which we visited a week ago. Because of the good weather, we opted to pay it another visit and experience it in a different light.

We opted to stick with the trusted Din Tai Fung for our last meal in Taipei. Thankfully, they have three different branches in the Xinyi District. The wait time at one of the branches was only fifteen minutes. It was a far cry from our two-hour wait at their flagship restaurant last week. It was a great ending to our stay in Taipei.

The East Gate (Yingximen) of Hsinchu, my old stumping ground.

We are spending our last evening in Taiwan with my family in Hsinchu. My cousin Elsa and her kids were in town, so we all decided to meet for a final dinner. By sheer coincidence, they were also flying back to the United States tomorrow, albeit on a different flight. For dinner, I made a reservation at TAIVII, housed in the former residence of Hsin Chih-Ping, a renowned educator and former principal of my old high school. The fully restored Japanese building was a wonderful setting for a convivial dinner. A contemporary Taiwanese restaurant, TAIVII is perhaps my favorite restaurant on this trip. All the dishes are familiar favorites but with a Japanese twist.

After dinner, I had my dad take us to our local RT-Mart for some last-minute shopping. RT-Mart is the Taiwanese version of Walmart and was the right place to pick up some Taiwanese provisions to take back in New York. I picked up dried bean curds, soup mixes, and some dried fish products. Although these items are technically available back home in New York, there is substantial markup.

Day 15 - Hsinchu - Taoyuan - New York

It was surreal to realize that our two-week trip to Taiwan was ending. With four fully packed suitcases, we met up with my family at our favorite Starbucks at the former Shinchiku Prefecture Library.` The drinks here may not be unique by Taiwanese standards, but the ambiance is unparalleled. Before heading to the airport, my sister took us for a final meal at Yuan Ye Shi Duck Noodle, a childhood favorite of mine. The $2 USD dish was full of nostalgia and just what I needed before a long-haul flight.

After bidding goodbye to my parents, Christine took us to the airport. Thanks to a new credit card we just applied for, I had the opportunity to visit my visit ever airport lounge. Along with flying in the premium economy class, I felt quite a VIP for once. At the end of this trip, I was happy that I finally got to return to my homeland and visit my family. I also took comfort in Brian is eagerness for a return visit.

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Taiwan Itinerary - Spring 2023