The Creative Side of Taipei

Growing up in Taiwan, we had a pretty decent art education in public school. From kindergarten all through high school, there were mandatory art classes at least two hours a week. But like most other East Asian countries, there has always been an obsession with STEM subjects and academic excellence. While creative interests are encouraged among children, parents often discourage them from pursuing an actual career in arts out of financial concerns. While foreign artists or international brands tend to do very well, Taiwna was not particularly friendly toward its own homegrown creatives.

A historic building in the midst of the urban chaos of Taipei.

As an architect, I am inclined to say that the built environment is the best expression of the local culture. But I always have a lot of misgivings about Taiwan’s built environment. Take a walk around any typical Taiwanese city, and one is likely overwhelmed by a cacophony of noises and the chaotic streetscape. While there are plenty of building codes, their enforcement is often lax. It is not uncommon to see illegal rooftop additions or encroachment of public walkways. However, my biggest pet peeve has got to be the proliferation of illegal signage plastered on top of the building. I often joked that Taiwanese architects could forego considerations of exterior appearance since just about everything will be covered up by billboards eventually.

I was disappointed that there has been little change to the cityscape. Unlike China, Taiwan’s vibrant democracy makes any large-scale urban renewal project a time-consuming, if not impossible, process. On the other hand, the slow pace of redevelopment also meant I got to reminisce about my childhood with little problem. But as our visit unfolded, I noticed many smaller design details around every city. From colorfully manhole covers to boutiques hidden among the narrow lanes, Taiwan is now one of Asia's most underrated design cities.

A neo-retro neon sign of Monga, the oldest district of Taipei.

As expected, the best places to explore Taiwan’s burgeoning creative industries are in Taipei. I visited Taipei semi-regularly as a kid. For those interested in Chinese culture, the National Palace Museum is among the best in the world. The Taipei Fine Arts Museum is generally regarded as the best museum for Western and contemporary arts. While both museums are still worth a visit, the most exciting art schemes are outside of these museums. Besides numerous private art galleries, the most exciting development in the past decade has been the establishment of various “creative parks” (文化創意產業園區) around the country. They are easily the most dynamic places in the Taiwanese capital.

Huashan 1914 Creative Park

The oldest creative park in Taipei is situated in Zhongzheng District, right in the middle of the city. Huashan 1914 Creative Park (華山1914文化創意產業園區) occupies the site of a former state-run brewery. The brewery was established in 1914 during the Japanese colonial era. After the facility was transferred to the Republic of China in 1949, the production changed from Japanese saké to fruit wine to better suit the changing taste. But as Taipei began to urbanize in the next few decades, the quality of the water supplied to the brewery deteriorated, prompting the operation to relocate an hour’s drive away in 1987. The site became an idle property under the ownership of the municipal government. For a period of time, the government designated this site for the new national parliament.

In 1997, a group of cultural leaders began to call on the city to revitalize the campus and open it as a cultural entrepreneurial zone. The government was lukewarm to the proposal since Taiwan had no precedence. A famous troupe performed in one of the abandoned structures here. After the performance, the police arrested the produce and the cast members and charged them with illegal trespassing on government property. This unusually harsh overreaction became a major political scandal, eventually leading to the park's creation in 2005.

The name Huashan (華山) derived from the historic placename of the neighborhood ever since the Japanese period. Though the name may seem to be derived from the fabled Chinese mountain of Mount Hua, it is named after Kabayama Sukenori (樺山資紀), the first Japanese Governor-General of Taiwan. Unlike many other parts of Asia, there is a weirdly nostalgic factor when it comes to Japanese colonial rules. It seems like all things Japanese are held in high regard. That may be the reason why all these industrial buildings were painstakingly preserved.

The creative park also provides the much-appreciated greenery in the middle of Taipei.

Nowadays, the two dozen structures on campus are inhabited by a wide array of small design shops and eateries. From my understanding, the government rented out spaces to independent artists and artisan workshops for below the market rate. Major chain stores or established brands are excluded to foster Taiwan’s nascent design scenes. From our observation, the most common items offered are apparel, accessories, and home items. Since nearly all the items on offer here are made in Taiwan, this is probably one of the best places to purchase authentic souvenirs and get to know the creators.

Of all the designers we met, our personal favorite would be Craftopia Taipei (六悅佳居). The potter Jun Lee imprints the physical flora of Taiwan into his work, making each piece uniquely organic. After the actual flora was burned off during the firing, he meticulously recreated the colors vividly. We bought a plate for my in-laws and a wall hanging for our apartment. It is arguably the favorite souvenir we bought over the years. In the stereotypically Taiwanese fashion, the customer service was great. Lee’s wife, Venessa, packaged the piece beautifully and hand-delivered it to our hotel the next day. Their thoughtfulness and attention to detail are truly memorable.

The Xiaoqi is a beautiful homeware store in Huashan 1914 Creative Park.

Besides all the boutiques, many cafes and restaurants are scattered throughout the park. Every place is meticulously designed and perfect for the “Instagram generation.” While I have been to other “art districts,” like 798 Art Zone in Beijing or Telliskivi Creative City in Tallinn, I found the atmosphere here at Huashan 1914 Creative Park to be comparably relaxed and unpretentious. This is not necessarily a temple of high culture, as you are unlikely to see a blockbuster exhibition here. Instead, this is a place of recreation and leisure for all.

Our visit to Huashan 1914 Creative Park coincided with the long weekend of the Qingming Festival. It is one of Taiwan's major holidays and the busiest time for domestic tourism. That might explain the shoulder-to-shoulder crowd. There was a sprawling craft market on the main plaza and numerous street performers. Most items on sale were reasonably priced and affordable to most residents of Taipei. It was a convivial scene and a testament to Taiwan’s new-found appreciation for the creatives.

Songshan Cultural and Creative Park

Following the popularity of Huashan 1914 Creative Park, the government sought to replicate the successful formula to revitalize a historic industrial site at the eastern end of Taipei. Songshan Cultural and Creative Park (松山文創園區) occupies the site of the Matsuyama Tobacco Plant, part of the Monopoly Bureau of the Japanese colonial government. This factory was once one of the largest in the Empire of Japan and supplied Japanese troops fighting throughout Asia. Even after the cessation of the tobacco and alcohol monopoly in 1968, this factory continued to prosper. The production peaked in 1987 and became a major source of national revenue for Taiwan.

The Baroque courtyard of the main factory complex.

This factory was conceived as a model of an ideal factory town from the very beginning. The entire complex is a city within itself and offers numerous amenities. In addition to the factory wall, the campus also contains administrative offices, a cafeteria, a medical clinic, and a daycare center. The layout of the entire campus is very different from that of Huashan 1914 Creative Park. A two-story courtyard building anchors the complex. Like so many buildings built under the Japanese, it is in an eccentric style, combining Japanese and European design elements. It is an architectural style that is familiar and nostalgic to all Taiwanese.

The endless hallways of the main factory building are a maze.

The focal point of the factory is a Baroque fountain, which is ringed by concrete statues of various aquatic animals. Lining the endless corridors of the main building are galleries and various design shops. Compared to Huashan 1914 Creative Park, most stores here appear more established. Some of the stores in the city had their own standalone store. The overall experience here felt a little more commercial, but not in a crass way. Even in the more corporate stores, the design items are always Taiwanese.

The anchor of this place is the Taiwan Design Museum (台灣設計館), which was the successor to the former Red Dot Design Museum Taipei. For whatever reason, Germany’s Red Dot Design Award is very well-known in Taiwan. The government has greatly emphasized the development of Taiwan’s creative industries in the last few years. In 2020, the government established the Taiwan Design Research Institute (TDRI). The state-funded agency helps facilitate the development of the design industry and is headquartered in Songshan Cultural and Creative Park. TDRI hosts design forums, exhibitions, and competitions across the island.

Award-winning design on sale at Design PIN.

Among the most visible aspects of the institute is the creation of the annual Golden Pin Design Award, which celebrates the best of Taiwanese design. Among all the design shops, our best would probably be Design PIN. The main objective of the store was to highlight the past winners of the Golden Pin Design Award. For first-time visitors to Taiwan, this is the place to buy quality souvenirs. Every item carries interesting background stories worth inquiring about with the shopkeepers. This is also a good place to discover Taiwan’s cultural heritage through design.

When it comes to the Taiwan Design Museum itself, I could not tell you much about it as I did not get to pay a visit on this trip. That said, we were able to take a quick pique into many of its galleries. Although many exhibits focus on foreign designers (like Le Corbusier) or international design movements (like Bauhaus), the museum still focuses on its relations with Taiwan. But honestly, I felt like the best way to experience Songshan Cultural and Creative Park is to explore the campus and discover many accessory buildings. The most interesting building on the ground would be the former power plant, now a top-notch roastery and coffee shop.

For local residents, the most appealing section of the park would be the pond along the eastern edge. The rustic appearance of the decade’s past has been preserved. The lake attracts quite a variety of wildlife here. It is now a popular spot for urban birdwatching. The comfortable boardwalk and expansive decked terrace make this place popular for families and young couples. For just a moment, we almost forgot that this was in the middle of bustling Taipei.

Before heading out, don’t miss out on a visit to a nearby highrise building called Eslite Spectrum (誠品生活). Although it is not affiliated with the creative park, this Toyo Ito-designed building has become a destination of its owner’s right. Among most Taiwanese, Eslite is a well-known brand. It is Taiwan’s most beloved bookstore chain and is known for its 24-hour bookstore and boutique interior. Eslite Spectrum is the chain’s take on the designer marketplace. A carefully curated selection of Taiwanese designer brands is represented here. For designer lovers, the on-site Eslite Hotel is a solid choice for accommodation.

Four-Four South Village

Among all the “creative parks” in Taipei, the most unusual one has got to be Four-Four South Village (四四南村). This area used to be the site of the residential neighborhood of military dependents' village or “juancun” (眷村). Juancun was constructed in 1948 for the families of military personnel evacuated from the Chinese mainland with the government of the Republic of China in 1949. Because these structures were put up quickly, they were often constructed with the cheapest materials only. What was meant to be a provisional solution became permanent and urban blight.

Despite being a source of frustration among urban planners, juancun is now considered a uniquely Taiwanese cultural heritage. Because the military personnel hailed from all parts of mainland China, these villages are the ultimate melting pot of all the different regional cultures of China. The close proximity of families living here fostered cultural exchange that shaped the development of post-war Taiwan. Famous Taiwanese dishes such as beef noodle soup and soup dumplings started in places like this.

Although government-provided lodging may sound like a nice perk, the condition of juancun could be quite appalling. The average unit in the village is less than 400 square footage and has no plumbing. All residents must use the communal facilities at the edge of the village. Overcrowding and shady construction meant very few young people were willing to stay. Over the past few decades, they have become semi-abandoned and are targeted for redevelopment. It was not until recently that the government and the public recognized its historical values. Four-four South Village is not only the first juancun, but also the first to be designated as a historical landmark. A small museum, Xinyi Assembly Hall (信義公民會館), dedicated to the history and life of juancun finally opened in 2003.

Though a large section of the original village was demolished, one area was preserved and turned into a public cultural venue. The preserved village is now a popular tourist attraction with foreign tourists from China and Japan. For younger generations of Taiwanese, what draws them here is the weekly open-air design marketplace for young designers and food artisans. During my visit, I saw a few American tourists tasing Taiwanese wine. Although Taiwan is now known for its award-winning whiskey, I did not realize Taiwan produces any wine.

The humble construction of *juancun* suddenly became trendy in contemporary Taiwan.

The favorite spot at Four-Four South Village seems to be Good Chos (好丘), a hybrid store of bagel shops, performance space, and design boutiques. They have the best bagels in town, including flavors like bubble tea and salted egg with taro. Unfortunately, I have vowed to avoid American food on this trip. Otherwise, I would love to give it a try. Like the other creative parks, this is also a great place to pick up some Taiwanese souvenirs, postcards, and artisanal tea. A couple of buildings over is Playground (南村劇場), another hybrid bookstore/performance space worth checking out.

For visitors, the most striking feature of the Four-Four South Village would be its proximity to Taipei 101, the city’s preeminent landmark and formerly the tallest building in the world. The contrast between the low-lying houses of the village and the supertall skyscraper seems jarring. This peaceful coexistence between the old and the new is a showcase of the dynamism of modern Taiwan. As Taiwan continued to modernize, the locals began to appreciate the complex history of this island. The reverence for the past remains integral to the country’s identity.

▲

Huashan 1914 Creative Park

Songshan Cultural and Creative Park

Four-Four South Village

Life Lessons From My First Camino

A Taiwanese Tale of Two Theaters