The Natural Wonders of Gozo

The Republic of Malta comprises the Maltese archipelago and three major inhabited islands: Malta, Comino, and Gozo. When Maltese speak of Malta, they likely refer to Malta, the island, not the republic. And just like any other country, islands often have a great rivalry. The people of Malta would be the first to say that there is a clear difference between Maltese and Gozitans. Gozitans are said to retain the “soul of Malta” and are not yet corrupted by rampant foreign investment and tourism. After our five nights in Valletta, we were more than excited for a little change of scenery.

In the online blogosphere, Gozo is often talked about as Malta’s best-kept secret. Malta being such a small island, very few visitors actually spend more than a week in the country. Most seem to prioritize the Blue Lagoon of Comino Island over the authentic beauty of Gozo. Many tour operators for Blue Lagoon often tack on a three-hour whirlwind excursion to Gozo. Thankfully, we made the decision to spend two nights there. But from the moment we arrived, we both said that we should spend a few more nights here.

Gozo Channel Ferry

Despite being the second-largest island, Gozo has surprisingly few links to Malta. The island has no airport or road connection to the rest of Malta. Gozo is a twenty-minute ferry ride from the port of Ċirkewwa in Malta. The ferry operation runs like clockwork, run by the state-run Gozo Channel Ferry. With four vessels in its fleet, anyone could arrive at the port without advanced reservation. Just earlier this summer, we took our first car ferry to the Westman Islands, which was my first time driving on the car ferry. I feel a lot more confident this time around. And because the ferry is the only public means of access, it is only ticketed on the way back in one direction, which made it especially convenient.

Although this ferry was not as polished as the one we recently took in Iceland, the layout was surprisingly similar. Because our planned boat trip to Comino did not materialize a few days ago because of the equipment failure, this ferry trip was our consolation prize. We both felt sad that we had to miss out on one of Malta’s top tourist sites. The ferry sailed very close to Comino, and we could even see a sliver of crystal blue water of the Blue Lagoon in the distance. I was quite surprised how Blue Lagoon still sparkles under an overcast sky. Along the way, a long series of watchtowers greeted us. It served as a reminder that this corner of the Mediterranean was among the most contentious water throughout history.

The Beauty of Gozo

One of the first things we noticed was how much less developed Gozo is compared to Malta. With a population of less than 33,000, Gozo is sparsely populated compared to Malta. However, that doesn’t mean the traffic is any lighter. The worst traffic jam we experienced on this trip was the half-hour traffic through Victoria, Gozo's administrative center. Once we were out of Victoria, the rural ambiance of Gozo was refreshing. With only a population of 33,000, the island is ideal for slow travel since it takes less than 25 minutes to traverse. As a result, there is absolutely no need to plan out your Gozo itinerary days in advance. This is exactly why Gozo is the perfect spot to vacation from your vacation.

The splendid vista from our room balcony at View Point Boutique Living.

Our first major impression of Gozo was our accommodation: View Point Boutique Living. Set alongside the gorge by the village of Xlendi, this 8-room hotel is run by Doreen and her dedicated team. Our room overlooked the valley toward the blue sea in the distance. Was it the most epic view we have ever seen? No. But there is something magnetic that animated the rock. Since Malta has no permanent lake or river, the valley in front of us reminded us of a different geological time. It's funny that sometimes a view like this could be more spectacular than an oceanfront. The valley of the dried riverbed is filled with local flora and faunas, including prickly pears and Malta’s blue rock thrush.

Oddly, we haven’t had a lot of beach time so far on this trip. We had been distracted by all the churches and temples on the island of Malta. Luckily, Gozo is blessed with a plethora of swimming spots. Our favorite swimming spot in Malta is Wied il-Għasri along the north coast. This sea inlet is five minutes from the road and accessed through steep staircases. Wied il-Għasri is closely reminiscent of the desert wadis of Oman that we loved so much. Because of the distance of the inlet, the water was calm like a wadi and perfect for swimmers of all ages. We picked up a free noodle floaty that somebody abandoned at the rental car, which made our swim all the more relaxing.

Just a few minutes down the road is Gozo’s famous salt plane. Salt production was one of Gozo’s main industries and dates back to Roman times. This part of Gozo is particularly suitable for soft production. The vast expanse of the seaside limestone plateau could easily be cut into distinctive holding pans. Sometimes, it is easy to forget what an essential salt production operation was. Salt was once one of the most expensive commodities a family would make back then. Like many other parts of the world, salt production was heavily regulated by the ruling Knights Hospitalers. Those who harvested salt were arrested and fined.

Of course, the prices of salt nowadays are almost next to nothing. It is not the household item that most of us would put much thought into. It is all the more remarkable that Gozo’s traditions of salt production are still going strong. Local families still pumped seawater every day and harvested their products daily. They sell their products from hand-dug caves adjacent to the salt plane. Although tourists do make purchases from them, there is no doubt that the domestic market is still the backbone of their business. I do wish we had picked up a bag of salt from them. After all, they are the kind of businesses that deserve tourism money.

Just around the corner of the salt plane is Xwejni Bay Beach. The beach has soft sand and a rocky section perfect for diving. Indeed, a couple of diving schools are operating out of this location. Even though the beach is not sheltered like Wied il-Għasri, the water was surprisingly calm. It is almost reminiscent of Honolulu’s Waikiki Beach, minus the crowds and palm trees. There was barely any wave, and it seemed like a favorite among many British retirees who called Gozo home. Given how many gorgeous beaches there are on Gozo, it is hardly surprising that Xwejni Bay Beach barely gets a mention in my Lonely Planet guidebook.

Beautiful swimming spot at Xwejni Bay Beach.

Following a short swim, we stopped at the nearby town of Marsalforn for a late lunch. This seaside resort town is the main hub of tourist activities and fishing along the north coast of Gozo. Marsalforn is not your typical quaint Maltese town. Composed mainly of midrise apartment blocks and hotels, the town has the ambiance of a mid-19th-century seaside resort. The promenade is lined with many bars, restaurants, and gelateria. Given we were in quite a touristy area, I did not have exactly a high expectation of the restaurants here.

After some research, we settled on Il-Kartell Restaurant. Little did I know it ended up being one of my favorite meals in Malta. Their signature seafood pasta, Linguine Al Kartell, was decadent. It may not be the most element pasta ever, but it is the most flavorful seafood pasta I ever had. Best of all, the portion was massive. When I inquired about their portion sizes, the server jokingly explained that Gozitans expect big portions. He got complaints about not serving enough food.

Our third and final beach of the day was Ramla Beach. The beach is known to be the best sandy beach in Gozo. Because Malta is primarily known for its rocky beaches, a golden-color sand beach is somewhat of a rarity. The first sign of its popularity was that it was quite difficult to find parking. It is no doubt the most crowded beach we visited on this trip. Of course, this being Malta, history is never far away. Right in the middle of the beach is a statue of the Virgin Mary; it marks the surviving remnant of Vendôme Redoubt, a military fortress constructed by the Knight Hospitaller. I imagine 99% of visitors would be oblivious to its history. Just beyond the beach, up on the side of the hill, is Calypso Cave. It is widely believed that this cave was referred to in Homer’s The Odyssey.

Nicknamed “Red Sand Beach” in Maltese, Ramla Beach is particularly famous for its reddish sand color. Unfortunately, the weather worsened, so we did not get to spend much time on the beach. We only wished we had better luck with the weather for the day. But ultimately, Brian and I preferred the “cleanliness” of pebble beach. It also did not help that the beach’s shower facility was shut down due to the pandemic.

Mourning The Loss of The Azure Window

Though Comino’s Blue Lagoon may be the biggest draw in Malta for visitors nowadays, it was not always the case. Up until just a few years ago, the most recognizable landmark in Malta is Gozo's Azure Window. A natural limestone arch that stood 92 feet high out of the water of Dwejra Bay, the Azure Window was first recorded by a continental chronicler in the early 1830s and has been the more resolute symbol of Gozo and Malta ever since. This fabled rock formation gained great international fame by appearing as a backdrop of several international television and movies, such as Clash of the Titans and The Odyssey.

Without any question, the HBO series Games of Thrones (or “GOT,” as people call it) arguably had the biggest impact. All over the world, a cottage industry has sprung up around filming locations of GOT. Just two months ago, we visited several filling locations in Iceland: the Thingvellir National Park, Grjótagjá Cave, Dimmuborgir, and Lake Mývatn. As it often goes, most of these places are spectacular, and a few were fantastically disappointing. Gozo’s Azure Window is the most iconic among all the GOT's filming locations. This was the backdrop of the wedding of Daenerys and Khal Drogo's Dothraki.

Because the Azure Window is such an iconic cultural symbol, the news of its collapse in spring 2017 made headlines worldwide. After an intense rainstorm, the pillar of the arch disintegrated into the sea. In minutes, this resolute symbol of Gozo disappeared under the water. The loss of the arch triggered a wave of emotion in Malta. Prime Minister Joseph Muscat called the loss “heartbreaking” but inevitable. Indeed, the Maltese government has commissioned reports on the structural integrity of the Azure Window over the years. To help stabilize the arch, the government banned tourists from walking on the arch. It was not because the added weight was detrimental but because people had been jumping off the arch and taking pieces of the limestone with them.

“Reports commissioned over the years indicated that this landmark would be hard hit by unavoidable natural corrosion. That sad day arrived.”

— Joseph Muscat, Prime Minster of Malta

As stated by the prime minister, everyone in Malta knew the collapse was inevitable. Nature created the Azure Windows but is also responsible for its ultimate demise. Compared to historic photographs from the 19th century, it was shocking to see just the erosion rate on the Azure Window over two centuries. As is often the case, nature accentuates the beauty of a natural landmark until the point of no return. I dare to speculate that some Gozitans may prefer a demise by vandalism to natural erosion. After all, I suspect it would be easier to blame the loss on vandals than on Mother Nature. Those who had difficulty accepting the obvious have floated an outlandish proposal to recreate the Azure Window. The complex issue of Azure Window is beautifully presented in a video of Rare Earth, one of my favorite YouTube travel channels.

This collapse of the Azure Window reminds me of the loss of Old Man of the Mountain, the preeminent symbol of the state of New Hampshire. Not only did Gozo lose an important landmark, but the economic impacts are also significant. In the absence of its marquee attraction, many local businesses are still determined to hold on to the memory of the Azure Window. Images of the arch still graces tourism literature. Unsuspected tourists may be disappointed that the Azure Window they saw on Instagram is long gone. Surprisingly, Azure Windows continued to draw tourists. During our visit, there was still a constant stream of tourists taking photos of where the arch once stood. I can’t help wondering the reason why.

The Inland Sea

Speaking as someone who has yet to watch a single episode of Game of Thrones, I personally couldn't care less about a selfie in front of Azure Window, let alone where it once stood. The real interest of my visit was the nearby lagoon called the Inland Sea. Known as Dwejra in Maltese, this saltwater lagoon is connected to the open Mediterranean Sea through a natural narrow tunnel. The lagoon provides a natural, safe harbor for generations of local fishermen. Of all the fishing villages I have ever visited, this one stood out as something special. Given its unique geology and the proximity of the former Azure Window, fishing has given way to the tourism trades nowadays.

The calm and shallow water made this an ideal dive site for beginners. The lagoon is also a great spot for a lazy swim. But by far the most popular activity would be to take a boat trip on one of the fishing boats. The fishermen of Dwejra came together to offer visitors boat tours along the surrounding sea cliff. Costing just €4 per person, the 10-minute boat tour took us through a narrow sea tunnel. Ironically, the name “Azure Window” originally applied to this tunnel, not the limestone arch that collapsed in 2017. The boat ride through the tight channel was a thrill, and it was not for the faint-hearted. I was just surprised by how choppy the water was immediately upon exiting the tunnel.

It makes look calm but it was actually quite a wild ride.

Like the earlier boat tour at Malta’s Blue Grotto, the captain took us to several sea caves with bright blue water reflected off the limestone bottom. The captain also pointed out various rock formations, including the former site of the Azure Window and the so-called Crocodile Rock, which is appropriately shaped like a crocodile. Even though we did not understand much of the narration from our boat captain, it was the best €4 we spent on the trip. In retrospect, I wished I had asked him how much of his livelihood was affected by the collapse of the Azure Windows and the ongoing pandemic. As much as I enjoyed the scenery, I could not help thinking how much this corner of Gozo has changed in the past five years.

▲

Gozo Channel Ferry

The Beauty of Gozo

Mourning The Loss of The Azure Window

The Inland Sea

Being Paparazzi In Malta

Uniquely Maltese