Homecoming at Dingle Peninsula

I was surprised when Brian declared our visit to Ireland his favorite trip ever! I must admit I felt a bit insulted. Given how much effort I put into planning our epic trip to Oman and Morocco, I don’t believe Ireland measures up. However, I quickly understood that this trip was a homecoming for him. His paternal side of the family is 100% Irish, and his father grew up in a predominantly Irish neighborhood in Springfield, Massachusetts. Unsurprisingly, Ireland was Brian’s first international trip abroad. He also spent a semester studying at University College Cork. He may not advertise his Irish ancestry, but his affinity to the country is genuine and deep.

The Celtic Cross at the cemetery of Kilmalkedar Church.

Of all the places, the Dingle Peninsula holds a special place in his heart. Of the eight great-grandparents born in Ireland, Brian’s family is most familiar with the emigration stories of Margaret Keane and Catherine Doolan. It just happened they both hailed from the Dingle Peninsula. Brian remembered visiting this part of Ireland with his grandmother and meeting distant relatives. This is the part of Ireland that he felt most connected to spiritually. We were fortunate that Dingle is also one of the most scenic corners of Ireland.

Annascaul & Minard Castle

It was only an hour's drive from Killarney to Annascaul, a gateway village to the Dingle Peninsula. With a population of fewer than three hundred, Annascaul is on the tourism map. Its claims to fame are the hometown of the Irish sculptor Jerome Connor and explorer Tom Crean. What brought us here was to follow in Catherine Doolan and Margaret Keane's footsteps. They were said to be from Annascaul, but we needed to learn more about their time here. Like many Irish immigrants of that era, they were not keen to share memories of the country they left behind. In hindsight, we should contact a geologist to help with our research.

Since we have very little information about Catherine and Margaret, the best way to trace them was to visit a local cemetery to see whether we could track down potential family members through their surnames. This eventually led us to the Church of the Sacred Heart, the village’s main parish church. To our disappointment, the burials in its churchyard seemed reserved for clergy. Naturally, we told her the reason for milling around the church. Because Annascaul is such a small town, she seemed to have a comprehensive knowledge of the local families and history.

When we mentioned the surname "Doolan,” she looked perplexed. She wondered whether Catherine Doolan could be related to the “Dowling” family, who lives about ten minutes outside the village near Minard Castle. My father-in-law mentioned that Catherine talked about playing around the Minard Castle as a kid so that lead made a lot of sense. At the same time, Brian was skeptical, as my father-in-law gave us the exact spelling for Doolan. Interestingly, we found a few tombstones for Dowling but no Doolan at the modern cemetery outside the town. It only added to the mystery.

With no other leads in Annascaul, we made our way to Minard Castle. Reachable via a single-lane road, the ruined castle perches along the coast like an ancient lighthouse. Although it is not physically massive, the castle has a prominent presence in the landscape. Minard Castle is a classic Irish tower house built by the Knight of Kerry, guarding one of the best landing beaches in Dingle Bay. According to the guidebook, a sculpted scallop is located above the doorway. Scholars believe this was the departure point for pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela. The first historical reference dates back to 1602 when English captain Charles Wilmot conquered the Dingle Peninsula. Less than five decades later, the forces of Oliver Cromwell besieged the castle. All defenders were killed when explosives detonated at the base of the tower. Remarkably, the castle remains relatively intact to this day.

In the nineteenth century, the British Coast Guard established a base at the castle to curb smuggling activities. Unfortunately, the Coast Guard members were known to ignore kickbacks. There were even tales of how they somehow ended up on smugglers’ ships in the open sea. In Dingle, I found an article on Minard Castle in the local publication The Kerry Magazine. I learned there were five Coast Guard families. Unfortunately, none of them had the surname Dowling or Doolan. It seemed like our hunt for Catharine Doolan came up short this time around. We might have to come back next with more advanced research.

Unfortunately, OPW closed the vicinity of Minard Castle due to structural issues.

Learning that this was my great-grandmother Doolin's childhood playground was a moving experience. Unfortunately, the Office of Public Works (OPW) has closed the castle to the public due to structural instability. I don’t believe there is a publicly announced plan for restoration and reopening anytime soon. Even though we couldn’t get too close to the castle, the scenery was stunning. It didn’t surprise us to see a few RV campers choose to spend a night at this spot. We certainly hoped to spend more time here.

Dingle Town

Blessed with beautiful weather, we could truly appreciate the majesty of the Emerald Isle. After our miserable times on the Ring of Kerry, we finally could appreciate Ireland’s lush greenery in its glory. Although people claim there is no bad weather in Ireland, I beg to differ. The drive from Annascaul to Dingle was particularly scenic. For anyone who enjoys long-distance walks, the 100-mile-long Dingle Way is one of Ireland’s most celebrated walking trails. Judging from the scenery around Minard and Annascaul alone, I might have to look into walking the Dingle Way in the future.

Just another beautiful afternoon in Dingle.

Before long, we arrived at the town of Dingle, the spiritual heart of the peninsula. After the Norman invasion, it became an essential port and a supply stop for international fleets. Its golden age dates back to the time of the Knights of Kerry in the eighteenth century. It became an important center of Ireland’s textile production. However, the town went into a steep decline due to the Industrial Revolution in England. The 1849 cholera outbreak further decimated the local population. With a population of only 1,700, today’s Dingle is a small village with a wonderfully relaxed ambiance.

Despite having so few residents, Dingle has always had a towering reputation within Ireland. It is one of those places where local traditions are fiercely guarded. Although technically not a Gaeltacht, the Irish language is widely spoken and visible on the storefronts. Dingle is also one of the best places to experience traditional Irish music. In fact, It is known to have the highest concentration of pubs and is a hub for traditional music. One of the most well-known pubs for music is Foxy John's, which doubled as a functional hardware store during the daytime. The pub we visited was O'Flaherty's Bar. Not only is this a musical mecca, but the pub interior is also a temple to the local history of Dingle.

One thing that caught my attention was the locals’ drive to revert Dingle to its historical Irish name, Daingean Uí Chúis. Championed by Gaelic speakers, the name change is regarded as a correction of historical injustice. London imposed the name Dingle on the Irish after Cromwell’s invasion; many local Irish speakers were eager to correct it. Among the leading champions of the change is Fergus O Flaithbheartaigh, the owner of O’Glaherty’s Bar. While the locals appreciate the name change in spirit, many are still uncertain about its practical implications. Considering the popularity of Dingle, the tourism sector was nervous about tarnishing its brand. Daingean Uí Chúis does not roll off the tongue as easy as Dingle.

Saint Mary’s Church is most noted for the attached Chapel of the Sacred Heart.

Although visitors outnumber locals three to one in Dingle during the summer high season, I found Dingle to be more charming and lived-in than Kinsale and Kenmare. Although there is no shortage of tourist restaurants and design boutiques, there are just as many everyday businesses, such as pharmacies and hardware stores. The town is large enough to have all the tourist amenities but small enough to explore on foot. However, due to its popularity, Dingle’s accommodation costs were sky-high, so we opted to get an Airbnb ten minutes out of town. Fortunately, there is plenty of parking along the harbor front.

Objectively speaking, there aren’t many must-see landmarks in Dingle. It is an ideal home base because of its numerous dining. and drinking establishments. Our favorite is Out of the Blue, aneccentric seafood restaurant on the waterfront. This is the best seafood restaurant we tried on this trip, outdoing the famous Fishy Fishy Restaurant in Kinsale. Brian even proclaimed it to be his favorite seafood restaurant of all time. This restaurant is reason enough to bring us back to Dingle. The town's other notable culinary export is Murphy's Ice Cream. The shop features local ingredients and Irish-inspired flavors, such as Irish brown bread and Dingle gin.

Murphy’s is one of Dingle’s culinary export.

Funny enough, one of Dingle’s most iconic landmarks is a bronze statue of Fungie, a bottlenose dolphin that inhabited Dingle Bay from 1983 to 2020. Dolphins are relatively uncommon in this water and are rarely solitary, so scientists estimated that Fungie was separated from his pod at around the age of three. Fungie is known for his friendly and playful behavior toward tourists and local fishermen. While many dolphins are known to be attracted to the sound of motorboats, Fungie was known as the only dolphin to seek out human interaction. A boat trip to meet Fungie was a memory for visitors from all over the world.

Sadly, Fungie vanished in October 2020. He was last seen on October 13. When the locals realized he had been missing for several days, a concerted effort was launched to find him. Unfortunately, the whereabouts and fate of Fungie remained a mystery. He either moved on to other waters or passed away. The collective grief was palpable, especially since this occurred during the height of the COVID-19 lockdown. Although everyone knew the loss of Fungie was inevitable, no one was truly prepared for it. The people of Dingle considered him not a tourist attraction but a decade-old companion.

Since the 1980s, Fungie has been Dingle's fixture and unofficial mascot. His absence means Fungie will be memorialized as a mythical figure for decades. Brian was devastated to learn of the news of his death and regretted missing the opportunity to see him during his two previous visits to Dingle. This reminds us to never take anything for granted in life. However, I can’t help wondering whether the memory of Fungie will still be around a century from now.

Slea Head Drive

The best way to experience the beauty of the Dingle Peninsula is to take a short drive on Slea Head Drive. A smaller cousin of the famous Ring of Kerry, this 24-mile circular loop can be easily covered within a day. I may not be a household name in America, but it offers a far more enjoyable and rewarding experience than the Ring of Kerry. Visitors would be treated to a long stream of historical sites. Like the Ring of Kerry, independent travelers are encouraged to travel clockwise to avoid getting stuck behind a caravan of tour buses.

Dunbeg Fort will tumble down into the sea sooner than later.

Our first stop on the drive is Dunbeg Fort. Perched precariously along the cliff edge, the fort was once one of the largest ring forts on the peninsula. It was first recorded in 1856 and has been a site of enormous intrigue ever since. Archaeologists believe the fort was occupied briefly on two occasions in history. The best estimate was the first century B.C. and the second wave of settlement around the 11th century. It is believed that the fort was only used in the time of emergency.

Besides the scenery, what drew visitors was the fact that the fort tumbled down to the ocean section by section due to coastal erosion. The most recent collapse was in 2014 when the most impressive section of the fort tumbled into the sea. To protect visitors from falling off the cliff, OPW installed a ring of protective fencing, which is quite unsightly. I would not be surprised if Dunbeg Fort became less popular with visitors over time. Like Fungie, nothing lasts forever.

We were lucky with the notorious pesky Irish weather.

A few miles' drive from Dunbeg Fort leads to a sign for Cashel Murphy. Although County Kerry has plenty of beehive huts, this complex is one of the best-preserved, even if it is slightly over-renovated. Due to the rise of tourism and Google Maps, many smaller archaeological sites have been excavated and opened for tourism. When Brian first visited the area in the early 1990s, these sites, located on private land, were not accessible. Based on my understanding, these sites were owned by private owners but received financial and conservation assistance from the OPW. This private-public partnership allowed owners to charge admission fees while safeguarding national heritage for future generations.

It was a short but steep hike from the parking lot to the fort, which offered spectacular views. This place may not be as well-known as Dunbeg Fort, but the visitor experience is far more enjoyable. The fort dates back to 3,200 BC and was inhabited by the Celts after they arrived in Ireland in 500 BC. Archaeologists believe the egg-shaped fort symbolized fertility. Like many historic sites, the structure’s orientation was cleverly aligned with the spring and autumn equinoxes to allow the sun to penetrate the inner chamber. The fort is said to be ceremonial for the Celtic druids.

The fort has a forecourt, five beehive huts, and a tunnel along its outer perimeter. The Fragments of ancient hearths and storage chambers are still visible. Among the most notable finds here is a cross-slab and rotary quern. Archaeologists believe up to five families inhabited the fort; they would shepherd their precious livestock in the evenings for safekeeping. Like all ring forts in Ireland, Cahel Murphy was constructed without mortar. Cashel Murphy’s state of preservation is quite remarkable, considering the North Atlantic's marine environment.

The most intriguing feature is an underground passageway. It is believed to have been a place of refuge during wartime. Many of the beehive huts and ring forts were interconnected via these tunnels. Visitors can sneak into the tunnel through a tiny opening at the base of a beehive enclosure. Since plenty of other visitors were around, I decided to avoid embarrassing myself by getting stuck at the entrance. However, seeing other grown men disappearing into the ground was certainly entertaining.

Ironically, the unexpected highlight of Cashel Murphy was our conversations with the keeper at the ticketing booth. Brian mentioned to her that he had distant relatives living near Dunquin. She was a friend of Aileen O Shea, a first cousin of Brian’s grandmother. Brian actually visited her in the 90s and visited and stayed with her children, Patrick and Anya, while studying abroad in Cork. We can’t help feeling giddy about such an incredible and serendipitous encounter. However, we were shocked to learn Anya died of cancer ten years ago at the age of thirty-seven. It certainly dampened our exuberance.

The Slea Head Drive is probably Ireland’s best road trip.

This stretch of Slea Head Drive is considered the most scenic. Compared to the Ring of Kerry, this road runs much closer to the cliffs and is more picturesque. However, we experienced terrible weather conditions, which are a fair comparison. Along the way, there are many roadside pullouts and viewpoints. Thanks to the improved weather, we could even see the elusive Skellig Michael on the horizon. Closer to the Dingle Peninsula are the Blasket Islands, an archipelago that played a significant role in modern Irish history. I am thankful that we finally had the Irish road trip we always dreamed of.

Before we knew it, we passed a marker for the village of Dunquin. This quaint village holds a special place in Brian’s heart. Although his great-grandparents were not from the town, he spent much time visiting families during his previous trip. Before our trip, I encouraged Brian to reach out to Patrick, a celebrated musician specializing in traditional Irish music. I was eager to see if he could perform at one of the local pubs. Due to his reserved personality, he was hesitant to contact Patrick after nearly two decades. According to our new friend at Cashel Murphy, Patrick still lives in the same house near the Blasket Centre. I was tempted to knock on his door.

Dunquin is the westernmost village in Ireland. According to our guidebook, the locals proclaim that the next parish is Boston. This corner of Ireland suffered the most from the Great Potato Famine, which led to mass emigration to North America. As a result, many Irish Americans enjoyed coming to Dunquin to pay tribute to their heritage. A popular hangout for locals and tourists alike is Krugers Bar. This bar prides itself on being the most westerly bar in Europe if you exclude Iceland and the Azores. Brian also remembered coming here with his grandmother on his first trip to Ireland.

While enjoying our pint of Murphy’s at the bar, we noticed the numerous badges adorning the walls from police and fire departments across America. Most of them, unsurprisingly, came from New England, especially Massachusetts and Connecticut. As we perused the collection, we were amazed to spot one from the Hazardville Fire Department in Enfield. Brian grew up in this little hamlet, and we certainly did not expect it to get a shout-out at a bar in rural Ireland. Of course, we had to ask the staff about these badges. Interestingly, the bartender was just as confused as we were!

The most scenic corner of Dunquin has to be Dunquin Pier. This dramatically situated dock is accessible only via a narrow winding ramp. It is the most photographed spot on the Dingle Peninsula, and it is famous for the picture of a herd of sheep snaking up the ramp. With the stunning jagged outcrop in the background, it is, without question, a spectacular view. I was surprised the locals did not stage this annual event for tourists more often. This historical pier provides a crucial link between the mainland and the Great Blasket Island. While some tours to the island departed from Dingle town, we purposely selected a ferry operator from here.

The Dunquin Pier is probably the photographed site in County Kerry.

Since I plan on a separate post on our trip to the Great Blasket Island, I won’t say much about our experience here. For those who could not spend a whole day visiting the island, it would be a worthwhile investment to visit the Blasket Centre. This OPW-operated state-of-the-art museum gives visitors an excellent overview of Balsket Island and its former inhabitants. This is arguably the most important museum in County Kerry. While I will write about our experience here more in a separate post, the most unexpected lesson for us was the island’s connection to Springfield, Massachusetts.

Past the Blasket Centre, the Slea Head Drive turned north and offered a series of viewpoints and hiking trails. I only wish we had more time to explore every nook and cranny of the peninsula fully. One of the best viewpoints is Waymont Viewpoint. It has a beautiful vista of Clogher Head and An Triúr Deirféar (The Three Sisters). As the name implies, the three identical peaks created a striking feature. Though they are called “the three sisters,” none of them have a female name associated with them.

View of the Seven Sisters at Waymony Viewpoint.

Dunquin may be a special place for us, but the most charming village in this part of the peninsula would be Ballyferriter Village. This pint-sized village is classified as a Gaeltacht village. For those unfamiliar with Gaeltacht, it is a government-designated area where the Irish language is commonplace and actively promoted. Even though the Irish have been taught in schools in the Republic of Ireland, less than five percent of the population speak it as their first language. Being in Ballyferriter and hearing Irish all around us was very special. When we popped in to grab coffee at the cafe of West Kerry Museum, even the Asian-looking barista here spoke fluent Irish with the customers. That was magnificent!

As a practicing architect, I am confident the highlight of the Dingle Peninsula is Gallarus Oratory. This early Christian chapel is approximately 1,000 years old and is one of the three intact structures of its kind (the other two are on Skellig Michael). The building shape resembles an upside-down hull of a boat. The intricate corbel vaulting echoes the beehive huts we visited earlier. With no mortar, achieving the regular floor plan was a true feat of engineering and craftsmanship. Each course of the stone pitches downward at the exterior, thus keeping the interior dry and in excellent condition.

With no contemporary record available, it was unclear exactly how long Gallarus functioned as a church. However, the structure was believed to have been continuously occupied in one way or another by local landowners, including as a farm shed and shelter for pilgrims. Thanksfully, the pastoral landscape around the oratory has been beautifully preserved. The view of Smerwick Harbor from the front entrance is spectacular. It may not be as evocative as the bronze-age beehive tombs in Oman, but Gallarus Oratory is still a wondrous sight.

Peeking into the eastern widow of Gallarus Oratory.

The strangest thing about Gallarus Oratory was its accessibility. If you input “Gallarus Oratory” into Google Maps, you will be led to a mid-sized parking lot and the visitor center. The center includes a tiny multimedia presentation of the site, a gift shop, and a toilet facility. There is a €5 admission fee, and it was just a few minutes walk to the oratory. After our visit, we noticed a “free parking area” on another side of the road. OPW owns the Gallarus Oratory and is free to visit. The “admission fee” was just for the visitor center and was certainly not worth the money. It was an ultimate sleight of hand.

Just a few minutes’ drive away is another similar structure: Saint Brandon Oratory. Accessible through an inconspicuous walking path, this oratory saw only a tiny fraction of visitors than its famous neighbor. Saint Brandon is more narrower and has a slightly less graceful profile. Perhaps this is why the roof collapsed. Archaeologists believe it is even older than Gallarus Oratory. Saint Brendan, also known as Brendan the Navigator, was one of the Irish Apostles and a native of the Dingle Peninsula. Legends had it that Brendon was the first European to arrive in America in the 5th century, a millennia before Christopher Columbus. Brandon has inspired pilgrimage since medieval times as one of the most popular Irish saints.

Several other historical landmarks were nearby on the Saint Brendon’s pilgrimage trail, including Cathair Deargain Ring Forts and Chancellor’s House. Both stone structures are dated to the 8th and 9th centuries. The fort had five enormous beehive huts and impressively tall stone perimeters. Interestingly, this impressive fort had never been fully excavated. Archaeologists believe a powerful farming family owned this fort. However, the highlight is the panoramic view toward the Bay of Smerwick. The bay and the surrounding areas are best known for a siege in 1580. Known as the Seige of Smerwick, the battle pitted Protestant English forces against the Irish-allied troops from Catholic Spain and the Papal States. It ended with a decisive victory for the English. All four hundred captives were then beheaded in summary execution. The brutality of the massacre shocked even Queen Elizabeth, who subsequently recalled the English commander in charge.

Kilmalkedar Church is a fine example of Ireland’s Norman architecture.

For us, the most enjoyable stop was Kilmalkedar Church. This 12th-century ruined church is a prime example of Norman church architecture. This church is most often associated with Saint Brendon and Saint Maolcethair. Although the roof has long collapsed, plenty of fine architectural details are worth seeking. Although I took a semester of medieval architecture history in college, I can’t say I remember much of Norman architecture, a subset of Romanesque. My favorite was the zig-zag moldings above the central doorway. It is almost identical to the decorations on Cormac’s Chapel in Cashel.

For a small church, Kilmalkedar Church is rich with local history and legend. The most intriguing feature is this narrow window at the east end. Known as "the eye of the needle,” legend has it that those who managed to sneak through the window would be admitted into heaven. Of course, this biblical term references a narrow gate in Jerusalem, where one must shed worldly possessions to obtain ultimate salvation. In that case, obese individuals like myself are certainly doomed. Since Brian passed through the window when he was a kid, I was keen to get him to have another try. After a few attempts, he made it safe and sound. Honestly, I was surprised this window opening is still in excellent condition after centuries of people squeezing through.

The eye of the needle may be fun, but it is far from historical significance. The most intriguing part of this church is the overcrowded graveyard. A crude but evocative stone cross sits opposite the church entrance. Over the centuries, the cemetery grounds have been elevated, making them oddly proportioned. Just a few steps over is an ancient ogham stone. This lone pillar predated the church by over nine centuries and bears fragments of mysterious ancient script. Historians believe that the pillar either marked the boundary of clans or denoted a meeting place where ancient Gaelic tribesmen would gather to discuss important matters. Allegedly, two parties would officiate the agreement by pressing their finger through the hole. How the archaeologists came to this conclusion is interesting in its own right.

The ogham stone and the giant early medieval stone cross represent the symbolic cohabitation of Gaelic traditions and Christianity.

Kilmalkedar Chruch was the final stop of our magnificent tour along the Slea Head Drive. Without hesitation, this was one of the best road trips in Europe for its natural scenery and density of historical sites. Those in a hurry could cover the entire route in half a day. However, I recommend a full day at a minimum to experience all the nooks and crannies. I suspect most would agree that Slea Head Drive should dethrone the Ring of Kerry as the premier Irish destination for American tourists.

Conor Pass

We had a long drive to Limerick ahead of us. Before bidding goodbye to the Dingle Peninsula, we must visit Conor Pass, which has legendary status among Irish Americans. Brian remembered his father driving this stretch of road and warned me that the pass was treacherous. I had driven on some godforsaken roads in the past, and I was confident that I could handle any road in Ireland, one of the most developed nations in the world. Lucky for us, Conor Pass was only a ten-minute drive from central Dingle. It was wild that the scenery could change so drastically in such a short distance.

Sometimes, Ireland’s unpredictable weather could create unexpected sublimity.

In all honesty, I was a little disappointed with Conor Pass. The scenery was splendid by all objective metrics, but I can’t say its towering reputation is warranted. Both the Conor Pass Waterfalls and the viewpoint from the carpark at the summit were passable at best. It took me a while to figure out why I was unimpressed. In the end, I think that could be attributed to the "legend” of Conor Pass as a place of danger and intrigue. It was not nearly as challenging or heart-topping as many other drives I experienced. Brian reminded me that I would have a different assessment if I had a 1980s manual car. Fair enough!

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Annascaul & Minard Castle

Dingle Town

Slea Head Drive

Conor Pass

Dublin Itinerary - Winter 2024

Dear Killarney…